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D  A  T  O  U  R  C 

AROUND  T|HE  WORLD 

W o E 


GEORGE  E.  RAUM 


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L  I  B  RARY 

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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

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University  of  California  •  Berkeley 


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A  TOUR 
AROUND  THE  WORLD 


BY 


GEORGE  E.  RAUM 


BEING  A   BRIEF    SKETCH   OF   THE   MOST    INTERESTING    SIGHTS 

SEEN    IN     EUROPE,    AFRICA,    ASIA,    AND    AMERICA, 

WHILE   ON   AJWtt^yARS'    RAMBLE 


UNIVERSITY 


NEW  YORK 

WILLIAM   S.   GOTTSBERGBR,   PUBLISHER 

II    MURRAY   STREET 

1886 


COPYRIGHT   BY 

WILLIAM  S.  GOTTSBERGER 

1885 


TO   MY   DEAR  OLD   MOTHER 

TO  WHOM  THESE  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  WERE  FIRST 
ADDRESSED  IN  THE  FORM  OF  LETTERS,  AND 

TO   MY  WIFE 

WHO  SHARED  WITH  ME  ALIKE  THE  PERILS  AND 
DISCOMFORTS,  AS  WELL  AS  THE  PLEASURES  AND 
BENEFITS  OF  TRAVEL,  AND  WHO  ALSO  ASSISTED 
ME  IN  PREPARING  THIS  WORK  FOR  PUBLICATION, 
I  LOVINGLY  DEDICATE  THIS  BOOK. 

GEORGE  E.  RAUM. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


CHAPTER  I. 

QUEENSTOWN:  CORK:  BLARNEY  CASTLE:  BANTRY: 
GLENGARIFF  :  LAKES  OF  KILLARNEY  :  GAP  OF  DUN- 
LOE  :  MUCKROSS  ABBEY  :  DUBLIN  :  PORTRUSH  I 
GIANTS'  CAUSEWAY  :  CASTLE  OF  DUNLUCE  :  BEL- 
FAST: 

AFTER  a  ten  days'  voyage  by  steamer  across  the 
Atlantic  from  New  York,  we  reached  the  Emerald 
Isle,  landing  at  Queenstown,  a  city  situated  at  the 
southern  extremity  of  Ireland,  in  Cork  Harbor, 
and  admirably  defended  by  two  strong  forts.  It 
contains  about  10,000  inhabitants,  and  has  few 
attractions  for  tourists  ;  but  is  a  favorite  resort  for 
invalids  on  account  of  its  mild  climate.  Here 
the  Rev.  Charles  Wolfe,  who  wrote  the  famous 
poem,  "  The  Burial  of  Sir  John  Moore,"  died  of 
consumption  in  1823. 

After  passing  our  baggage  through  the  Cus- 
tom House,  an  hour's  time  was  quite  sufficient  to 


2  A    TOUR 

note  the  few  points  of  interest  the  place  presented, 
and  taking  rail  for  Cork,  we  skirted  the  beautiful 
river  Lee  for  twelve  miles,  passing  several  ancient 
castles  and  lovely  modern  country-seats. 

At  Cork  we  took  carriage,  and  drove  for  six 
miles  along  the  banks  of  the  Lee  to  Blarney 
Castle,  over  a  road  considered  the  most  charming 
in  Ireland,  passing  the  Castle  of  Carrigrohane  and 
the  Bridge  of  Inniscarra  built  by  Cromwell  in  the 
1 6th  century. 

Blarney  Castle  was  the  stronghold,  and  long 
the  residence  of  the  royal  race  of  McCarthy,  by 
whom  it  was  built  in  the  I5th  century;  all  that 
now  remains  of  it  is  a  donjon  tower,  125  feet  in 
height,  with  walls  14  feet  in  thickness,  which  ren- 
dered it  impregnable  before  the  introduction  of 
gunpowder.  The  chief  attraction  of  this  castle  is 
the  famous  Blarney-stone,  which  is  supposed  to 
endow  whoever  kisses  it  with  that  gift  of  persuasive 
eloquence  so  characteristic  of  the  Irish  nature. 
This  stone,  which  bears  the  inscription,  "  Cor- 
mach  McCarthy,  1446,"  is  placed  near  the  top  of 
the  tower,  and  is  both  difficult  and  dangerous  of 
access  ;  but  a  substitute  is  shown  the  less  venture- 
some below,  which  is  said  to  possess  the  same 
virtue  as  the  original.  On  the  river  side  is  shown 
the  place  where  the  defenders  of  the  castle  poured 
down  hot  lead  upon  Cromwell's  attacking  forces, 
and  beneath  are  the  donjon  cells,  three  by  five 
feet  in  dimension,  and  ventilated  only  by  an  inch 


AROUND    THE    WORLD  3 

hole.  An  underground  passage,  also  hewn  from 
the  solid  rock,  connects  the  castle  with  a  cave 
some  three  hundred  yards  beyond,  while  the 
grounds  surrounding  the  castle  are  noticeable  both 
for  their  beauty  and  their  historic  interest. 

Returning  to  Cork  by  a  different  road,  one  has 
a  lovely  bird's-eye  view  of  that  city,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  Lee.  It  was  here  that  William 
Penn  became  a  convert  to  Quakerism,  and  near 
by  the  place  where  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  lived, 
planted  the  potato,  and  scented  the  air  of  Hibernia 
with  the  fragrant  weed  of  our  own  Virginia. 

Leaving  Cork  by  rail  for  Bantry — distance  70 
miles — we  passed  through  primitive  Ireland,  see- 
ing much  ignorance  and  squalor,  barefooted, 
ragged  mendicants  preferring  their  claims  upon 
our  time  and  charity  at  every  turn,  and  miserable 
huts  with  straw  chimneys  and  dirt  floors  —  man 
and  beast  sharing  alike  such  poor  comfort  as 
might  be  found  within  them. 

Passing  along  the  bogs  one  sees  men  and 
women  busily  engaged  cutting  turf — a  species  of 
black  mud  composed  of  decayed  vegetable  matter, 
which,  after  having  been  dried  a  month,  is  used 
by  the  natives  for  fuel. 

Continuing  by  stage,  a  distance  of  eleven 
miles,  we  reached  Glengariff  a  charming  resort 
surrounded  by  high  peaks  and  lovely  lakes.  The 
climate  here  is  delightfully  mild;  flowers  bloom- 
ing a  month  in  advance  of  the  season  elsewhere, 


4  A    TOUR 

while  its  surrounding  views  and  historic  scenes  — 
among  which  may  be  noted  Cromwell's  Bridge 
and  the  Martello  Tower  —  render  it  a  locality  well 
worth  visiting. 

At  Glengariff  we  took  a  wagonette  and  drove 
to  Killarney,  a  distance  of  40  miles,  passing 
through  the  beautiful  and  extensive  estate  of 
Lord  Bantry,  viewing  at  a  distance  "The  Nob," 
"  Eagle's  Nest,"  and  other  features  of  the  wild 
mountain  scenery. 

Arriving  at  the  Lakes  of  Killarney,  so  justly 
celebrated  for  their  exceeding  beauty  of  scenery, 
we  contracted  with  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel  to 
send  ponies,  boats  and  carriages  to  different  points 
on  the  lakes. 

At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  we  drove, 
attended  by  a  guide,  a  distance  of  nine  miles  to 
the  Gap  of  Dunloe  ;  stopping  en  route  at  the  Castle 
and  Cave  of  Dunloe,  at  the  cottage  of  St.  Patrick, 
the  tutelary  saint  of  Ireland,  near  which,  legend 
avers,  he  exterminated  the  last  of  the  Irish  snakes  ; 
and  at  the  home  of  Kate  Kearney,  where  one  of 
her  descendants  dispenses  "  mountain  dew "  to 
the  thirsty  wayfarer. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Gap  we  mounted  ponies, 
and  rode  a  distance  of  five  miles,  through  a  narrow 
mountain  defile,  passing  Macgillicuddy's  Reeks, 
and  several  small  lakes ;  into  one  of  which  the 
author  of  the  Colleen  Bawa  cast  his  heroine. 

At  the  head  of  the   upper  lake  we  entered  a 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  5 

small  row-boat,  and  proceeded  to  view  the  pic- 
turesque scenery  bordering  its  shores.  We  passed 
Lord  Brandon's  cottage,  "  Eagle's  Nest,"  and 
McCarthy's  Island ;  shot  the  rapids  under  the  old 
Weir  bridge ;  crossed  the  "  Meeting  of  the 
Waters"  and  landed  on  Dinish  Island. 

From  here  we  drove  to  the  Tore  Cascade,  and 
thence  to  the  historic  ruins  of  Muckross  Abbey. 
This  is  a  grand,  old,  ivy-covered  ruin,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  which  stands  a  yew  tree  440  years  old,  and 
surrounding  it  are  the  tombs  of  the  McCarthy,  the 
Moore,  and  other  names  of  ancient  Ireland. 

Ross  Castle — three  miles  distant — is  another 
fine  ruin  which  withstood  the  assaults  of  Crom- 
well in  the  i6th  century;  also  to  be  noted  are, 
the  castle  of  Lord  Kinmare  and  the  ruins  of  Innis- 
fallen,  so  celebrated  by  Moore  in  song.  Joined  to 
the  harmonies  of  sight  were  those  of  sound, 
throughout  this  delightful  tour;  mountain  and 
lake  returning  echoes  from  violin,  bugle  and 
cannon. 

From  Killarney  to  Dublin — a  distance  of  112 
miles — one  passes  through  a  country  of  no  special 
interest.  This  city,  situated  on  the  Liffey,  has  a 
population  of  340,000  inhabitants.  Its  principal 
buildings  are  the  "  Castle  " — the  official  residence 
of  the  Lord  Lieutenant ;  the  Bank  of  Ireland — 
formerly  the  House  of  Parliament ;  Trinity  Col- 
lege ;  and  the  "Four  Courts."  The  finest  streets 
are  Sackville  and  James,  on  which  are  erected 


6  A   TOUR 

monuments  to  William  III.,  Nelson,  Wellington, 
and  O'Connell,  and  among  other  places  of  historic 
interest  there  also  is  pointed  out  the  spot  where 
Emmet  was  hung. 

Phoenix  Park — one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
United  Kingdom — contains  the  private  residence 
of  the  Lord  Lieutenant  of  Ireland,  who  may  be 
seen  driving,  surrounded  by  a  strong  escort  of 
cavalry.  The  blood  of  his  predecessor,  Lord  Cav- 
endish, and  that  of  Secretary  Burke,  was  still 
fresh  upon  the  spot  where  they  were  assassinated, 
May  6th,  1882;  the  day  previous  to  our  arrival. 

From  Dublin  we  went  by  rail  to  Portrush,  a 
small  bathing  place  in  the  north  of  Ireland,  and 
from  there,  by  jaunting-car,  six  miles  to  the  Giant's 
Causeway.  This  is  a  basaltic  promontory  from 
ten  to  five  hundred  feet  high,  and  consists  of  pris- 
matic columns  fitting  side  by  side  with  such 
uniformity,  as  to  look  like  the  work  of  art;  the 
heating  of  the  rock,  and  its  sudden  cooling,  is  sup- 
posed to  be  the  cause  of  this  remarkable  formation. 

The  Castle  of  Dunluce,  four  miles  from  the 
Causeway,  is  the  finest  ruin  in  the  north  of  Ireland. 
It  is  built  on  a  rock  and  is  connected  with  the 
mainland  by  a  stone  bridge  only  twenty  inches  in 
width. 

Belfast,  the  second  city  in  size  in  Ireland,  con- 
tains but  little  to  attract  the  transient  visitor,  and 
from  here  we  took  the  steamer  across  the  Irish 
sea,  to  Scotland. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


CHAPTER  II. 
THE   CLYDE:     GLASGOW:    AYR:    DUMBARTON   CASTLE: 

LOCH  LOMOND  :  INVERSNAID  :  STRONACHLACHER  : 
LOCH  KATRINE  :  THE  TROSSACHS  :  CALLANDER  : 
STIRLING  :  EDINBURGH  :  ROSLIN  CHAPEL  :  HAW- 
THORNDEN  :  MELROSE  ABBEY :  DRYBURGH  ABBEY : 
ABBOTSFORD. 

SAILING  up  the  river  Clyde,  we  passed  large 
numbers  of  ships  in  course  of  construction,  from 
the  formidable  man-of-war  and  fine  merchant 
ship,  to  various  small  sized  craft  destined  for 
lighter  service. 

Glasgow,  the  commercial  capital  of  Scotland, 
is  finely  situated  on  the  river  Clyde  at  the  head  of 
navigation.  It  was  here  that  James  Watt,  in 
1763,  first  applied  steam  as  a  motive  power.  The 
city  has  a  population  of  512,000  inhabitants,  and 
contains  many  handsome  buildings  and  fine  statues. 
St.  George's  Square,  centrally  located,  contains  the 
monuments  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, James  Watt,  Prince  Albert,  and  Queen 
Victoria ;  and  is  surrounded  by  the  Royal  Bank, 
Mechanic's  Institute,  Royal  Exchange,  and  Post 
Office.  The  city  is  noted  for  its  abundant  supply 
of  fresh  water  brought  from  the  romantic  Loch 
Katrine-^-a  distance  of  40  miles. 

The    Great    Western    Cooking    Depot,    estab- 


8  A   TOUR 

lished  by  one  of  her  philanthropists,  is  a  novel 
and  an  admirable  institution,  where  a  most 
excellent  meal  is  served  to  the  working  people  at 
three-pence  (six  cents)  each. 

The  most  important  object  to  be  seen  in  Glas- 
gow is  the  cathedral,  which  ranks  next  to  West- 
minster in  the  kingdom ;  particularly  admired  for 
the  rich  coloring  of  its  stained-glass  windows.  It 
is  situated  in  a  picturesque  spot,  partly  surrounded 
by  an  old  churchyard  or  necropolis,  which  rises 
terraced  in  the  background,  and  contains  some 
beautiful  monuments,  the  most  conspicuous  of 
which  is  that  erected  to  the  memory  of  John 
Knox,  the  great  Reformer.  The  cathedral  was 
built  in  the  1 2th  century,  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin 
cross,  and  of  the  Gothic  style. 

The  University,  a  fine  building,  costing 
millions  of  dollars,  is  located  on  high  ground 
sloping  to  the  river  Kelvin,  and  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  city. 

Ayr  —  40  miles  from  Glasgow  —  has  18,000 
inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  the  Ayr  river, 
which  is  crossed  by  the  "  twa  brigs,"  immortal- 
ized by  Burns. 

On  the  site  of  the  prison  where  Wallace  was 
confined  a  .structure  now  exists  called  the  Wallace 
Tower,  in  front  of  which  is  a  statue  of  that  hero, 
and  in  the  Tower  are  the  clock  and  bells  of  the 
old  donjon  steeple. 

Two  miles  from  Ayr  is  the   cottage,  divided 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  9 

into  two  rooms,  where  the  poet  Burns  was  born, 
January  25th,  1759,  and  the  bed  yet  stands  in  the 
original  niche  where  the  poet  first  saw  the  light 
of  day.  Two  miles  from  this  is  "  Alloway's  auld 
haunted  kirk,"  which  has  been  immortalized  by 
Burns  in  his  "Tarn  O'Shanter."  In  the  adjoin- 
ing churchyard  are  the  graves  of  Tarn  O'Shanter, 
or  Tarn  Laughlin,  from  the  farm  Shanter,  and 
those  of  the  poet's  parents,  on  the  headstone  of 
which  is  inscribed  the  following  beautiful  epitaph, 
written  by  Burns,  on  his  father : 

"  O  ye,  whose  cheek  the  tear  of  pity  stains, 

Draw  near  with  pious  rev'rence  and  attend ! 
Here  lie  the  loving  husband's  dear  remains, 
The  tender  father  and  the  gen'rous  friend. 

The  pitying  heart  that  felt  for  human  woe ; 

The  dauntless  heart  that  fear'd  no  human  pride ; 
The  friend  of  man,  to  vice  alone  a  foe ; 

For  ev'n  his  failings  lean'd  to  virtue's  side." 

The  "  auld  kirk"  is  in  ruins,  but  the  interest  of 
the  locality  is  centred  in  the  graveyard. 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  is  the  well  where 
Mungo's  "mither  hanged  hersel,"  and  near  by  is 
a  fine  monument  to  Burns,  in  the  interior  of  which 
are  relics  belonging  to  him  —  original  manuscript, 
wedding-ring,  a  lock  of  his  Highland  Mary's  hair, 
and  two  bibles  given  her  by  the  poet.  In  a  cave 
on  the  grounds  is  a  monument  to  Tarn  O'Shanter 
and  Souter  Johnnie,  and  a  few  steps  further  on 


10  A   TOUR 

the  "  auld  brig  o'Doon,"  over  which  Tam  took 
his  famous  nocturnal  ride. 

From  here  we  drove  back  to  Ayr  by  another 
road,  passing  the  cottage  where  two  of  Burns's 
nieces  live  —  old  ladies  upward  of  eighty.  We 
then  visited  the  tavern  where  Tam  and  Souter 
Johnnie  used  to  meet  and  carouse,  sat  in  their 
chairs,  and  drank  from  their  cups. 

Sixteen  miles  from  Glasgow  is  Dumbarton 
Castle.  This  fortress  stands  on  a  rocky  height 
six  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  commanding 
extensive  views  in  every  direction,  the  ascent 
being  made  by  many  steps  cut  in  the  solid  rock. 
The  armory  contains  the  sword  of  Wallace,  which 
is  more  than  seven  feet  long,  and  over  the  inner 
gate  is  a  room  where  he  was  confined  a  prisoner; 
the  face  of  Wallace  and  that  of  Monteith,  his 
betrayer,  being  cut  in  the  stone  wall  outside.  To 
this  castle  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  was  brought 
when  a  child.  Charles  I.,  and  Cromwell  succes- 
sively occupied  it,  and  Queen  Victoria  visited  it 
in  1847. 

Two  miles  from  here  is  Cardross  Castle,  where 
Robert  Bruce  died  in  1329. 

Arriving  at  Balloch  Pier,  on  Loch  Lomond, 
we  sailed  for  two  hours  amid  the  many  beautiful 
islands  which  gem  its  surface,  surrounded  by 
exquisite  mountain  views,  passing  Ben  Lomond,  a 
high  mountain  peak,  in  the  distance,  and  nearing 
Rob  Roy's  cave  and  rock,  where  he  suspended 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  I  I 

his  prisoners  by  a  rope  until  they  agreed  upon 
what  ransom  they  would  pay. 

At  Inversnaid  we  landed  and  took  stage 
through  a  mountainous  country  —  the  scene  of 
Sir  Walter  Scott's  Rob  Roy  —  to  Stronachlacher, 
passing  on  the  roadside  a  stone  cottage,  once 
occupied  by  Helen  MacGregor,  Rob  Roy's  wife. 

Here,  by  steamer  "Rob  Roy,"  we  sailed 
through  Loch  Katrine,  which  teems  with  the 
poetry  of  Scott's  "  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  passing 
the  island  where  Rob  Roy  put  the  steward  ashore 
and  left  him,  after  taking  his  money ;  Ellen 
Douglas'  Isle,  the  Silver  Strand,  Ben  Venue,  and 
the  place  where  James  and  Roderick  Dhu  first 
met. 

From  the  end  of  the  lake  we  drove  through 
the  Trossachs — a  wild,  heather-grown  gorge,  and 
stopped  at  the  hotel  of  the  same  name,  for  a  brief 
rest.  Continuing  our  drive  we  passed  Ben  Lodi, 
Loch  Venachar,  and  Coilantogle's  Ford,  where  the 
combat  took  place  between  Roderick  Dhu  and 
Fitz  James,  after  Roderick  had  discharged  his  ob- 
ligation of  conducting  him  there  safely. 

From  Callander  we  went  by  rail  to  Stirling, 
a  place  of  great  antiquity ;  with  a  population  of 
13,000. 

Stirling  Castle,  around  which  is  centered  so 
much  of  historic  interest,  is  built  upon  a  rocky 
elevation  of  380  feet;  the  battlements  of  which 
command  a  magnificent  view.  Secure  on  account 


12  A   TOUR 

of  its  central  location  and  inaccessible  situation,  it 
early  became  a  place  of  great  importance,  and  was 
for  a  long  time  the  residence  of  the  kings. 

Inside  the  castle  walls  is  the  palace  built  by 
James  V.,  and  ornamented  by  statues  of  himself 
and  his  favorite  courtiers.  In  the  chapel  adjoin- 
ing, Mary  was  crowned  Queen  of  Scots,  and  her 
son,  afterwards  James  VI.  of  Scotland  and  I.  of 
England,  baptized. 

It  was  the  birthplace  of  James  II.,  and  of  James 
V.,  and  a  favorite  residence  of  James  VI.,  who  was 
crowned  in  the  old  church  near  by;  John  Knox 
preaching  the  coronation  sermon. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  the  castle 
is  the  Douglas  room,  in  which  William,  Earl  of 
Douglas,  was  assassinated  by  James  II.,  after  that 
monarch  had  promised  him  safe  conduct.  Here 
is  shown  the  window  from  which  the  lifeless  body 
was  thrown ;  also  the  secret  stairway  leading  from 
this  room,  by  which  the  king  sometimes  left  the 
castle  in  disguise.  From  the  battlements,  no  less 
than  eight  battlefields  are  in  sight ;  on  one  of 
which  Bruce  secured  the  independence  of  Scotland, 
by  his  victory  at  Bannockburn,  in  1314;  and  on 
another  where  William  Wallace  achieved  a  great 
triumph  over  the  English  in  1287. 

A  drive  of  four  miles  from  Stirling  brought  us 
to  Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  where  are  interred  the 
remains  of  James  III.  On  the  way  we  passed  the 
Wallace  Tower — an  immense  monument  built  at 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  13 

a  height  of  200  feet ;  Darnley's  house  ;  and  Queen 
Mary's  palace. 

Edinburgh  was  first  called  Edwin's  borough, 
from  the  fact  that  King  Edward  pitched  his  tent 
on  the  rock  where  the  castle  now  stands.  The 
city,  which  contains  230,000  inhabitants,  is  situated 
on  both  sides  of  a  deep  ravine,  and,  for  its  size,  is 
one  of  the  most  imposing,  interesting  and  magni- 
ficent cities  in  Europe,  and  has  often  been  styled 
"  the  modern  Athens."  Princes  and  George  streets 
are  the  fashionable  thoroughfares,  lined  with  ele- 
gant buildings  and  fine  monuments;  the  most 
conspicuous  of  which  is  a  monument  to  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  200  feet  high,  with  a  statue  of  himself  and 
dog  under  a  stone  canopy  surrounded  by  fifty 
smaller  statues  representing  characters  in  his 
novels. 

Edinburgh  Castle,  whose  origin  is  clouded  in 
obscurity,  is  one  of  the  fortresses  which,  by  the 
articles  of  union  between  England  and  Scotland, 
must  be  kept  fortified  ;  and  is  teeming  with  roman- 
tic and  historic  interest.  Sir  William  Kirkaldy 
defended  it  thirty-three  days  for  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  against  the  combined  armies  of  England 
and  Scotland.  The  room  is  shown  where  that 
unfortunate  queen  became  a  mother;  and  the 
window  where  her  son,  when  only  eight  days  old, 
was  lowered  in  a  basket,  to  be  conveyed  to  a  place 
of  greater  safety. 

In   a  room   over  one   of  the  inner  gates,  the 


14  A    TOUR 

Duke  of  Argyle  slept,  the  night  previous  to  his 
execution  ;  and  in  the  tower,  strongly  guarded, 
are  the  crown  jewels  of  Scotland,  consisting  of 
crown,  sceptre,  sword,  plate,  and  decorations  set 
with  precious  stones.  These  were  lost  for  over  a 
hundred  years,  and  but  recently  found  by  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  in  an  old  chest  in  the  castle. 

Mons  Meg,  a  gigantic  cannon,  twenty  inches 
in  diameter  at  the  bore,  used  in  1514  at  the  siege 
of  Norham  Castle,  is  to  be  seen  on  the  battle- 
ments. 

The  Museum  contains  many  interesting  relics, 
among  which  are  the  "  Maiden "  or  guillotine, 
used  in  the  time  of  the  Covenanters  ;  the  stool 
which  Jeanie  Geddes  threw  at  the  Dean  of  St. 
Giles ;  thumb-screws,  and  other  instruments  of 
torture. 

The  National  Gallery  is  filled  with  rare  speci- 
mens of  art,  and  on  this  spot  formerly  stood  the 
house  where  Lord  Darnley  was  blown  up. 

Holyrood  Palace,  built  in  1501  by  James  IV., 
was  the  home  of  that  lovely  but  unfortunate  queen, 
Mary  Stuart,  in  which  she  lived  with  Darnley  for 
a  time.  Among  the  apartments  shown,  are  Lord 
Darnley's  rooms,  hung  with  fine  tapestry ;  and  in 
his  bed-chamber,  the  bed  occupied  by  Charles  I. 
From  Darnley's  apartments  leading  up  to  Queen 
Mary's  rooms,  is  a  private  staircase  by  which  the 
assassins  of  Rizzio  ascended  to  murder  that  un- 
fortunate secretary.  Mary's  supper  room,  an 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  15 

apartment  so  famous  in  Scottish  history,  was  the 
scene  of  Rizzio's  murder,  which  took  place  while 
he  was  at  supper  with  the  queen. 

The  objects  of  interest  in  the  old  quarter  of 
Edinburgh  are  John  Knox's  church  and  tomb ; 
Greyfriar's  cemetery,  where  18,000  martyrs  are 
buried  ;  the  Heart  of  Mid-Lothian,  a  large  stone 
heart,  marking  the  spot  where  the  prison  once 
stood ;  and  the  Grass  Market,  formerly  a  place  of 
execution,  where  the  Dukes  of  Argyle,  Montforth, 
and  many  others  of  more  or  less  note  were  be- 
headed. 

Roslin  Chapel,  built  by  the  St.  Clairs  in  the 
nth  century,  and  in  which  they  were  buried  in 
armor,  is  particularly  noted  for  its  fine  carvings 
and  Gothic  architecture.  The  Apprentice  Pillar,  for 
which  the  apprentice  lost  his  life,  having  completed 
it  while  the  master  was  in  Rome  in  search  of  a 
design,  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  Roslin  Castle,  a 
short  distance  from  the  chapel,  is  situated  on  a 
cliff  overhanging  the  river  Esk,  and  among  its 
subterranean  dungeons  is  one  which  was  occupied 
by  Queen  Mary  for  several  weeks. 

Walking  along  the  river,  a  distance  of  two 
miles,  through  a  romantic  and  lovely  ravine,  we 
reached  Hawthornden,  the  home  of  the  poet 
Drummond.  Here  is  to  be  seen  the  sword  of 
Robert  Bruce,  and  the  caves  in  which  he  and 
Wallace  took  refuge  at  different  times.  These 
caves  are  cut  in  the  rock  underneath  the  poet's 


0* 


(UITIVBESITT 


16  A    TOUR 

residence,   and   connect  with    Roslin  Castle  by  a 
passage  under  the  river. 

Melrose  Abbey,  the  chief  attraction  of  a  small 
village  of  the  same  name,  on  the  river  Tweed,  is 
an  old,  roofless,  ivy-covered  ruin.  It  was  founded 
in  1136  by  King  David  I.,  who  lies  interred  here 
with  his  queen.  Here  also  is  buried  the  heart  of 
Robert  Bruce,  Michael  Scott,  the  wizard,  Alex- 
ander II.,  the  royal  family  of  Douglas,  Brewster 
the  historian,  and  Tom  Purdy,  Sir  Walter  Scott's 
forester.  The  old  clock,  which  time  has  robbed 
of  both  figures  and  hands,  still  denotes  the  hour, 
which  is  sounded  by  strokes  of  the  old  bell.  In 
the  centre  of  the  Abbey  stands  a  broken  column, 
which  was  the  favorite  seat  of  Sir  Walter  Scott 
when  he  came  to  gather  fresh  inspiration  from  the 
grand  and  varied  beauty  of  the  scene. 

From  Melrose,  a  drive  of  four  miles  brought 
us  to  Dryburgh  Abbey,  the  burial  place  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  and  the  most  picturesque  ruin  in  all 
Scotland.  Adjoining  the  Abbey  are  the  remains 
of  the  cloister ;  and  a  hole  in  the  wall  of  a  cell 
shows  where  refractory  monks  were  punished  by 
having  their  hands  wedged  in  with  wood. 

Leaving  Dryburgh  —  the  home  of  the  dead  — 
we  drove  seven  miles  to  Abbotsford,  the  late 
residence  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  a  most  imposing 
mansion,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Twetd,  in  the  midst  of  well-kept  grounds.  The 
study  contains  his  leather  arm-chair,  pipes  and 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I/ 

canes  as  he  left  them.  The  library  has  some 
twenty  thousand  volumes,  and  in  it  are  the  chairs 
presented  him  by  George  IV.,  and  Pope  Pius  VII., 
the  portfolio,  pen-case,  and  cloak-clasps  of  Napo- 
leon, taken  at  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  locks  of 
Wellington's  and  Nelson's  hair,  Rob  Roy's  purse, 
Helen  MacGregor's  brooch,  Tarn  O'Shanter's 
snuff-box,  and  Robert  Burns's  drinking-glass. 
The  drawing-room  is  elegantly  finished  in  carved 
wood,  and  contains  many  handsome  paintings. 
The  armory  is  a  small  room,  with  arms  tastefully 
arranged  on  the  walls,  among  which  are  the  swords 
of  the  Earl  of  Montrose  and  of  Colonel  Scott, 
Napoleon's  pistols,  Rob  Roy's  shield  and  gun,  the 
spurs  of  Prince  Charlie,  and  the  armor  of  James 
VI.  ;  besides  these  is  a  candlestick  formerly  be- 
longing to  Bruce,  the  crucifix  carried  by  Queen 
Mary  to  execution,  her  money-box,  and  the  keys 
of  Loch  Leven  Castle,  From  the  armory  a  door 
opens  into  the  dining-room,  where  Sir  Walter 
died,  his  couch  commanding  a  view  of  the  river 
Tweed  from  the  window.  The  main  hall,  a  beau- 
tiful apartment  of  carved  wood,  marble  floor,  and 
stained-glass  windows,  is  hung  with  arms  and 
armor  of  all  descriptions  ;  and  in  it  is  seen  a  clock 
of  Marie  Antoinette,  a  cast  of  Bruce's  skull,  and 
that  of  one  of  a  life-guard,  who  killed  thirteen  men 
with  his  fist  at  Waterloo,  Napoleon's  armor,  the 
keys  of  the  old  tolbooth  —  the  Heart  of  Mid-Lo- 
thian— and  the  clothes,  shoes  and  hat  last  worn  by 


I 8  A    TOUR 

Scott  In  the  grounds,  near  the  main  entrance, 
is  a  bronze  monument  placed  over  the  remains  of 
the  author's  favorite  dog,  Meda. 

Truly    a    baronial    mansion,    and     one    full    of 
interest. 


CHAPTER  III. 

LONDON. ITS  ENVIRONS. 

LONDON,  the  metropolis  of  the  United  Kingdom 
of  Great  Britain,  and  the  largest  city  in  the  world, 
is  situated  on  the  Thames  river,  45  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  4,000,000. 
The  older  portion  of  the  city  is  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  and  embraces  but  a  small  part  of  the 
area  of  modern  London  ;  it  is  of  great  antiquity  ; 
but  very  little  being  known  of  it  previous  to  the 
time  of  Nero,  when  it  bore  the  dignity  of  a  Roman 
colony. 

Starting  from  the  Bank  of  England,  the  treas- 
ury of  Great  Britain,  and  commercial  and  financial 
centre  of  the  city,  we  drove  past  St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral, Temple  Bar  —  where  formerly  stood  one  of 
the  old  gates  of  the  city,  the  Courts  of  Justice, 
the  old  graveyard,  near  by  —  made  mention  of  by 
Dickens  in  "  Bleak  House,"  where  little  Joe  peered 
through  the  railing,  at  the  grave  of  his  only  friend, 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  IQ 

Temple  Church,  where  Oliver  Goldsmith  is  buried, 
and  Somerset  House.  Continuing  down  the  strand 
— one  of  the  principal  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  on 
which  are  located  many  of  the  theatres,  we  reached 
Charing  Cross — a  locality  which  takes  its  name 
from  one  of  the  five  crosses  which  mark  the  rest- 
ing-places of  the  funeral  procession  of  a  Queen  of 
England. 

Trafalgar  Square,  the  finest  in  the  city,  is  over- 
looked by  the  principal  hotels,  and  contains  a 
beautiful  monument  to  Nelson,  surrounded  by 
fountains  and  colossal  figures  of  recumbent  lions, 
and  other  statues. 

In  a  narrow  street  leading  from  the  square,  is 
still  to  be  seen  the  "  Old  Curiosity  Shop,"  presided 
over  by  an  old  Jew  and  his  little  daughter — com- 
pleting the  picture  so  touchingly  described  by 
Dickens. 

Continuing  through  Pall  Mall,  where  are  situ- 
ated the  principal  club-houses,  we  passed  the 
Crimean  monument  in  Waterloo  Place,  Marlbor- 
ough  House  —  the  residence  of  the  Prince  and 
Princess  of  Wales,  St.  James'  Palace  and  Park, 
Buckingham  Palace  —  the  Queen's  city  residence, 
and  Wellington's  statue,  located  at  Hyde  Park 
Corner — the  fashionable  quarter  of  London. 

Hyde  Park,  the  great  pleasure  drive  of  the 
city,  contains  350  acres,  and  is  laid  out  with  fine 
carriage-roads  and  paths  intersecting  each  other 
at  every  point ;  the  portion  called  Rotten  Row  be- 


20  A    TOUR 

ing  devoted  exclusively  to  equestrians.  On  the 
southern  limit  of  the  park  stands  the  Albert 
Memorial,  said  to  be  the  finest  monument  in  the 
world,  'and  costing  $500,000.  The  four  large 
marble  groups  at  the  outer  corner  represent  Eu- 
rope, Asia,  Africa,  and  America ;  the  upper  cor- 
ner marble  groups,  Agriculture,  Manufacture, 
Commerce,  and  Engineering;  while  the  carved 
figures  which  surround  the  base  number  169,  and 
represent  renowned  painters,  poets,  sculptors  and 
statesmen.  The  monument  is  of  brown  stone, 
1 80  feet  high,  and  tinder  the  canopy  which  is 
studded  with  12,000  stones,  is  the  sitting  figure 
of  Prince  Albert  in  gilt. 

The  Zoological  Gardens  of  London  contain  the 
largest  collection  of  animals,  birds  and  insects 
known  in  the  world ;  the  larger  animals  being 
particularly  fine  ;  the  fashionable  day  to  visit  "  the 
Zoo "  is  on  Sunday,  when  admittance  is  gained 
only  by  card. 

The  Tower  of  London,  supposed  to  have  been 
commenced  by  Julius  Caesar,  is  situated  at  the 
eastern  extremity  of  the  city,  and  covers  1 2  acres 
of  ground.  On  the  river-side  is  the  entrance, 
called  the  Traitor's  Gate,  through  which  prisoners 
of  state  were  conveyed  in  boats  after  trial.  Within 
this  famous  structure  are  numerous  buildings,  in- 
cluding barracks,  armories  and  towers,  viz :  the 
Bloody  Tower — where  Richard  III.  murdered  his 
nephews  ;  the  Bowyer  Tower — where  the  Duke 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  21 

of  Clarence  was  drowned  in  a  butt  of  Malmsey 
wine ;  the  Brick  Tower  —  in  which  Lady  Jane 
Grey  was  confined  ;  the  Beauchamp  Tower  —  the 
prison  of  Anne  Boleyn,  and  numerous  others  of 
equally  historic  association.  In  addition  to  the 
original  use  of  the  Tower  as  a  fortress,  it  was 
the  residence  of  the  monarchs  of  England  down  to 
the  time  of  Elizabeth,  and  a  prison  for  state  crim- 
inals. 

Numerous  are  the  kings,  queens,  warriors  and 
statesmen,  who  have  not  only  been  imprisoned, 
but  murdered  within  its  walls ;  among  whom 
were  Catherine  Howard,  Sir  Walter  Raleigh, 
Somerset,  Sir  Thomas  Moore,  William  Wallace, 
and  King  John  of  France.  In  the  Tower  in- 
closure  is  the  Horse  Armory,  built  in  1826  — 
an  extensive  gallery  in  which  is  a  finely-arranged 
collection  of  armor  used  from  the  I3th  to  the 
1 8th  century;  including  suits  worn  by  the  Prince 
of  Wales — son  of  James  I.,  Henry  VIII.,  Dudley, 
Earl  of  Leicester,  Charles  L,  and  John  of  Gaunt. 

Queen  Elizabeth's  armory  is  filled  with  old 
arms  artistically  arranged  on  walls  and  ceilings, 
representing  floral  and  other  designs  ;  instruments 
of  torture  are  numerous,  among  them  being  the 
block  on  which  Lords  Kilmarnoch  and  Balmerino 
were  executed  in  1745.  The  Jewel  House  con- 
tains all  the  crown  jewels  of  England  —  crowns, 
scepters,  swords,  orbs  and  maces  of  gold  studded 
with  precious  stones ;  Queen  Victoria's  crown 


22  A    TOUR 

containing  the  celebrated  Koh-i-noor  diamond, 
and  the  heart-shaped  ruby  worn  by  the  Black 
Prince ;  while  St.  Peter's  chapel  is  interesting  as 
the  burial  place  of  many  royal  victims.  The  war- 
dens of  the  Tower  still  dress  in  the  costumes  of 
the  Beef-eaters  of  the  time  of  Henry  VIII. 

Westminster  Abbey  was  founded  in  the  year 
610,  and  within  its  venerable  walls  repose  the 
ashes  of  kings,  queens,  and  distinguished  men  — 
the  first  interment  being  that  of  King  Harold. 
Their  respective  places  of  rest  are  marked  by 
sumptuous  monuments  in  marble  and  bronze. 
Among  them  are  the  tombs  of  Edward  the  Con- 
fessor, Edward  L,  Edward  III.,  Edward  V.,  and 
Edward  VI.  ;  Richard  II.,  Henry  III.,  Henry  V, 
and  Henry  VII.  ;  James  I.,  Charles  II.,  William 
III.,  and  George  II.  ;  Queens  Mary,  Elizabeth, 
Mary  of  Scotland,  and  Anne  ;  also  the  remains  of 
the  two  princes  murdered  in  the  Tower.  In  the 
Poets'  Corner  lie  Milton,  Dryden,  Chaucer,  Spen- 
cer, Garrick,  Dickens,  and  others  noted  in  the 
world  of  letters.  In  the  opposite  transept,  allotted 
to  statesmen,  are  Pitt,  Wilberforce,  Palmerston, 
Canning,  and  a  host  of  other  distinguished  names. 
Separating  the  transepts  is  the  altar,  where  the 
sovereigns  of  England  have  received  the  crown 
from  the  hands  of  the  Archbishop  since  the  church 
was  built ;  and  in  the  rear  of  the  altar  stands  the 
old  coronation  chair  of  England's  sovereigns, 
beneath  which  is  the  famous  stone  on  which  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  23 

Scottish  kings  were  crowned,  brought  to  England 
by  Edward  I.,  in  1297.  In  the  nave  of  the  church 
are  slabs  on  the  floor,  memorials  of  Livingston, 
the  African  explorer,  Peabody,  the  philanthropist, 
whose  remains  were  afterwards  removed  to  Amer- 
ica, and  Charles  Robert  Darwin,  the  great  philos- 
opher of  this  age. 

The  British  Museum  is  a  magnificent  edifice 
in  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  and  contains 
an  immense  and  ancient  collection  of  original 
manuscripts ;  Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Roman  an- 
tiquities, mausolea,  the  Winged  Bulls  from 
Sennacherib's  palace  at  Nineveh,  Assyrian  relics, 
the  Elgin  statuary,  and  zoological  and  mineral 
collections. 

In  the  Egyptian  department,  besides  many 
of  the  oldest  stone  inscriptions  known  to  exist,  is 
the  Rosetta  stone,  carved  with  hieroglyphic,  en- 
chorial, and  Greek  characters,  dating  200  years 
B.C.,  and  discovered  by  the  French  in  1799. 
This  stone  was  found  near  Rosetta,  in  Egypt,  and 
was  instrumental  in  enabling  scholars  to  decipher 
hieroglyphic  characters,  and  through  them  to 
learn  much  of  ancient  history. 

The  Kensington  Museum,  located  in  a  park  of 
the  same  name,  covers  many  acres  of  ground,  and 
requires  a  day  simply  to  walk  through  it,  bestow- 
ing only  a  hurried  glance  at  the  most  important 
objects.  It  has  an  extensive  and  valuable  collec- 
tion of  antiquities,  ceramics,  bronzes,  Japanese 


24  A    TOUR 

wares,  silver  and  gold  plate,  ancient  furniture  and 
tapestry,  mosaics,  terra-cottas  and  sculpture.  The 
galleries  are  extensive,  and  contain  some  fine 
paintings,  among  which  are  "  Napoleon's  Fare- 
well to  France,"  and  the  "  Death  of  Amy  Rob- 
sart."  The  East  India  Museum  connected  with 
this  building,  comprises  a  very  rich  and  curious 
collection  of  Oriental  arms,  costumes,  and  carv- 
ings, presented  to  the  Prince  of  Wales  by  the 
native  princes  of  India,  on  the  occasion  of  his 
travels  through  that  country. 

The  Houses  of  Parliament  —  magnificent 
buildings,  where  the  sittings  of  the  great  council 
of  England  are  held,  and  where  the  laws  of  the 
realm  are  framed  —  are  located  on  the  Thames, 
and  cover  eight  acres  of  ground.  There  are  five 
hundred  apartments  in  these  buildings,  and  the 
Victoria  Tower  is  336  feet  high.  Nearly  500 
statues  are  distributed  about  the  building,  and 
numerous  beautiful  paintings  and  frescoes  adorn 
the  walls  and  ceilings.  In  the  House  of  Lords, 
rich  in  gildings  and  carvings,  is  the  throne-chair, 
used  by  the  Queen  when  she  opens  Parliament. 
The  House  of  Commons  is  small  and  plainly 
finished.  It  has  a  free-and-easy  appearance,  the 
members  having  no  particular  seats  assigned 
them  —  benches  being  used  instead  of  chairs  — 
and  they  loll  about  with  their  hats  on  during 
debate. 

St.  Paul's    Cathedral,  in  the  most  central  part 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  25 

of  the  metropolis,  is  on  the  site  where  formerly 
stood  another  cathedral  400  years  previous  to  the 
Norman  conquest.  From  the  pavement  of  the 
crypt  to  the  top  of  the  cross  surmounting  it,  it  is 
375  feet,  and  the  minute  hand  of  the  clock  in  the 
belfry  is  said  to  be  ten  feet  in  length.  In  the 
body  of  the  cathedral  are  fine  monuments  to 
Nelson,  Wellington,  Collingwood,  Picton  and 
other  heroes,  while  in  the  crypt  are  the  remains 
of  the  architect,  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  and  those 
of  Wellington  and  Nelson,  in  granite  tombs, 
surrounded  by  constantly  burning  torches.  Here, 
also,  is  the  catafalque,  formed  of  captured  cannon, 
which  bore  Wellington's  remains  to  their  last 
resting-place.  . 

The  National  Picture  Gallery  in  Trafalgar 
Square  contains  numerous  gems  of  painting  and 
statuary ;  most  of  the  pictures  are  old,  and  from 
Biblical  subjects,  principally  of  the  Italian,  Spanish, 
French  and  Flemish  schools,  and  some  of  the  best 
works  of  Raphael,  Correggio,  Rubens  and  Murillo, 
are  to  be  found  here. 

The  Royal  Mews  —  or  stables  —  at  Bucking- 
ham Palace,  contains  one  hundred  horses ;  those 
used  on  state  occasions  being  magnificent  animals 
of  a  uniform  cream  color.  The  carriages  are  of 
great  variety:  the  state  carriage,  heavily  gilded 
and  ornamented,  and  weighing  several  tons,  being 
the  handsomest  in  the  collection.  The  harness 
belonging  to  this  equipage  glitters  with  burnished 


26  A    TOUR 

brass,  and  weighs   500  pounds  to  the  horse,  often 
causing  the  animal  to  fall  beneath  its  burden. 

Madame  Tussaud's  Wax-works  is  one  of  the 
great  sights  of  London,  and  is  said  to  be  the  finest 
collection  of  the  kind  in  the  world  ;  the  models 
exhibited  being  the  result  of  many  years'  patient 
and  careful  study.  The  suite  of  rooms  in  which 
the  collection  is  displayed  is  gorgeously  decorated 
and  gilded ;  the  walls  hung  with  crimson  cloth 
and  costly  oil  paintings.  The  figures  comprise 
300  portrait  models  of  celebrities  of  ancient  and 
modern  times,  including  the  complete  line  of  the 
kings  and  queens  of  England,  and  images  of 
the  Pope  of  Rome,  Napoleon  I.,  and  the  Czar 
Alexander  II.  of  Russia,  lie  here  in  state.  The 
costumes  are  the  identical  ones,  or  correct  copies, 
of  those  worn  by  the  originals  of  these  effigies, 
and  are  valuable  both  from  their  intrinsic  worth, 
and  for  their  historic  accuracy.  Curious  and  life- 
like characters  are  those  of  an  old  man  seated 
upon  one  of  the  benches  in  the  midst  of  the 
spectators,  moving  his  head  while  taking  snuff, 
apparently  absorbed  in  watching  the  moving  crowd 
around  him  ;  and  of  a  beautiful  woman  reclining 
in  uneasy  slumber,  her  breast  heaving  with  evi- 
dent agitation  —  the  night  previous  to  execution. 
The  Chamber  of  Horrors  contains  the  figures  of 
notorious  criminals,  and  the  guillotine  used  in 
France  during  the  Revolution. 

The  collection  also  includes  a  large  number  of 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  2/ 

relics  of  Napoleon,  among  which  are  his  camp- 
chair,  table  and  carriage,  taken  at  Waterloo ;  Vol- 
taire's chair,  and  the  key  of  the  Bastile. 

On  June  3d,  1882,  we  witnessed  a  review  of 
the  military  or  "  Trooping  of  the  Colors,"  as  it  is 
called  —  in  St.  James'  Park,  in  honor  of  Queen 
Victoria's  63d  birthday.  The  celebration  was  at- 
tended by  many  distinguished  guests,  including 
the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  and  family,  the 
Countess  Burdett-Coutts  and  others. 

Spurgeon  —  London's  noted  preacher  —  may 
be  heard  Sundays  in  the  Tabernacle,  which  seats 
5,000  people,  and  is  always  crowded  by  attentive 
listeners  —  chiefly  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes 
—  apparently  absorbed  by  his  simple  and  earnest 
eloquence. 

The  Derby  race  at  Epsom  is  celebrated  once 
a  year,  when  all  classes  make  it  a  holiday.  The 
steam-cars  run  from  London  to  Epsom  Downs, 
but  to  go  by  the  road  is  to  see  London  on  wheels : 
from  the  four-in-hand  private  drag,  elegantly 
mounted,  down  to  the  costermonger's  cart  drawn 
by  the  smallest  donkey.  Leaving  the  Grand 
Hotel  on  top  of  a  four-in-hand  coach,  with  a  few 
friends,  we  started  at  10  A.  M.  by  the  road,  a  dis- 
tance of  1 6  miles,  to  Epsom,  and  soon  joined  a 
tide  of  humanity  bound  for  the  same  place.  On 
the  ground  were  400,000  people.  The  races,  six 
in  number,  were  exciting;  but  more  interesting 
than  they,  were  the  great  mass  of  humanity ;  the 


28  A    TOUR 

numberless  side-shows  of  every  description,  and 
the  wandering  minstrels  moving  about  the  grounds 
seizing  every  opportunity  to  earn  a  small  pit- 
tance, rendered  the  scene  a  perfect  carnival. 

Windsor  Castle  is  situated  on  the  river  Thames, 
20  miles  from  London.  It  has  been  the  favorite 
seat  of  the  sovereigns  of  Great  Britain  for  the  past 
eight  centuries,  and,  even  before  Windsor  Castle 
was  founded  by  William  the  Conquerer,  the  Saxon 
kings  resided  on  the  spot.  The  rooms  shown  to 
visitors  are  the  Queen's  audience  and  presence 
chambers,  the  reception,  throne,  Van  Dyke, 
Rubens  and  Zaccarelli  rooms,  and  the  banqueting 
hall,  all  of  which  are  elegantly  furnished  and  hung 
with  fine  paintings  and  Gobelin  tapestry.  St. 
George's  Chapel  in  the  enclosure,  is  a  splendid 
specimen  of  Gothic  architecture ;  in  it  the  Prince 
and  Princess  of  Wales  were  married  with  great 
pomp.  In  the  vault  lie  the  remains  of  many  of 
England's  sovereigns,  including  Henry  VIII.  and 
his  queen,  Jane  Seymour,  George  III.  and  his 
queen,  William  IV.  and  his  queen,  Charles  L,  and 
the  Princess  Charlotte.  It  is  in  this  chapel  the  in- 
stallation of  the  Knights  of  the  Garter  takes  place. 

The  Albert  Chapel,  a  memorial  to  the  Prince 
Consort,  was  originally  erected  by  Henry  VII.  as 
a  place  of  sepulture  for  himself.  Afterwards  Car- 
dinal Wolsey  obtained  a  grant  of  it  from  Henry 
VIII.,  and  prepared  it  as  a  receptacle  for  his  own 
remains.  This  chapel  has  been  embellished  with 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  29 

unsparing  magnificence  by  Queen  Victoria,  in 
memory  of  Prince  Albert,  and  the  interior  is  said 
to  be  the  richest  in  the  world.  The  entire  vaulted 
roof  has  been  covered  with  mosaic  figures,  orna- 
ments and  inscriptions,  with  gold-enamel,  in  bas- 
relief;  the  floor  and  walls  are  beautifully  inlaid 
with  every  variety  of  highly-polished  marble  and 
agate,  in  exquisite  designs,  and  the  window  is  of 
stained  glass,  with  full-length  figures  of  Henry 
VIII.  and  Wolsey.  In  the  centre  of  the  building 
is  placed  a  cenotaph  with  a  recumbent  figure  of 
the  Prince  in  armor,  and  on  it  is  inscribed  : 


"  I  have  fought  the  good  fight ; 
I  have  finished  my  course." 


The  Crystal  Palace  at  Syclenham  —  an  hour's 
ride  from  London  —  is  an  interesting  place  to 
spend  a  day,  affording  an  opportunity  for  the 
study  of  both  nature  and  art.  The  gardens  are 
very  fine ;  their  beautiful  walks,  serpentine 
streams,  statues,  fountains  and  lawns,  rendering  it 
a  delightful  resort.  A  portion  of  the  building  is 
appropriated  to  tropical  trees  and  plants  ;  another 
to  courts  of  Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Roman  sculp- 
ture and  architecture,  which  contain  copies  of  the 
masterpieces  of  the  great  sculptors  of  both  an- 
cient and  modern  times. 

Kew  Garden,  the  most  complete  botanical 
gardens  in  the  world,  cover  several  hundred  acres 


30  A   TOUR 

of  highly  cultivated  ground.      It  has  an  extensive 
palm  house,  and  many  conservatories. 

From  Kew  -we  drove  through  Bushy  Park, 
noted  for  its  avenue  —  a  mile  in  length  —  of 
chestnut-trees,  planted  by  William  of  Orange, 
and  dined  at  the  famous  inn,  the  "  Star  and  Gar- 
ter," near  the  entrance  to  Hampton  Court 
grounds. 

Hampton  Court,  the  palace  presented  to 
Henry  the  VIII.  by  Cardinal  Wolsey,  is  situated 
near  the  banks  of  the  Thames,  and  surrounded  by 
extensive  grounds.  In  the  vinery  is  a  grape  vine 
112  years  old,  bearing  annually  800  Ibs  of  fruit. 
Near  the  entrance  is  "the  Maze,"  whose  devious 
and  intricate  windings  afford  much  perplexity  and 
amusement  to  the  unwary  visitor.  The  palace  is 
of  red  brick,  with  stone  ornamentation,  and  was 
the  birthplace  of  Edward  VI.  Here,  the  masques 
and  tournaments  of  Philip  and  Mary,  and  of 
Elizabeth,  took  place ;  and  also  the  celebration  of 
the  marriage  of  the  daughter  of  Cromwell  to  Lord 
Falkinbury.  The  interior  of  the  palace  has  an 
extensive  collection  of  paintings  and  tapestry,  the 
latter  representing  incidents  in  the  history  of 
Alexander  the  Great ;  and  among  the  portraits 
are  the  beauties  of  the  Court  of  Charles  II.  In 
the  bedroom  of  William  III.  is  the  state  bed  of 
Queen  Charlotte,  hung  in  embroidered  satin 
draperies. 

Embarking  from  here  in  one  of  the  small  boats 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  31 

which  daily  ply  the  Thames,  we  skirted  the  banks 
of  Battersea  Park,  passed  the  Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment and  Cleopatra's  Needle,  steamed  under 
Westminster,  Waterloo,  Blackfriars  and  London 
bridges,  over  the  subway  and  tunnel  which  con- 
nect, under  water,  both  banks  of  the  river,  passed 
the  Tower  of  London,  and  landed  at  Greenwich, 
noted  for  its  fine  observatory,  from  which  point 
the  world's  time  is  computed. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

OXFORD  I  LEAMINGTON  :  WARWICK  :  KENILWORTH  : 
COVENTRY  :  STRATFORD-ON-AVON  :  CHESTER  :  LIV- 
ERPOOL :  LANCASTER  :  BOWNESS  :  ENGLISH  LAKES  : 
PENRITH  :  CARLISLE  :  NEWCASTLE  :  YORK  :  SHEF- 
FIELD :  ROWSLEY  I  MANCHESTER  :  RHYL  :  CONWAY  : 
BETTWS-Y-COED  I  FFESTINIOG  :  BRIGHTON  :  PORTS- 
MOUTH :  COWES  :  NEWPORT  :  SOUTHAMPTON. 

OXFORD,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Cher- 
well,  Thames,  and  Isis  rivers,  has  a  population  of 
40,000.  It  was  once  the  favorite  residence  of 
Canute,  and  of  Henry  I.  and  Henry  II.,  during 
which  time  the  valiant  son  of  the  latter,  Richard 
Cceur  de  Lion,  was  born.  The  city  was  stormed 
in  1067  by  William  the  Conqueror;  the  part  of 
the  castle  which  he  erected  still  stands,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  jail.  Oxford  is  noted  for  its  University, 


32  A    TOUR 

which  consists  of  19  colleges,  one  of  them  having 
been  founded  by  Alfred  the  Great.  In  front  of 
Baliol  College  is  a  beautiful  monument  marking 
the  place  where  Ridley,  Latimer,  and  Cranmer 
were  burnt  at  the  stake.  In  the  museum,  among 
other  interesting  relics,  is  Guy  Fawkes'  lantern, 
used  by  him  in  the  celebrated  Gunpowder  Plot. 

Leamington,  on  the  river  Leam,  is  a  beautiful 
city,  with  lovely  parks  and  wide  streets,  lined 
with  trees,  and  has  a  population  of  23,000.  It  is 
noted  for  its  medicinal  baths,  and  is  environed  by 
six  battlefields,  viz.,  Eversham,  where  Prince  Ed- 
ward defeated  Simon  de  Montfort ;  Tewksbury, 
where  the  Yorkists  defeated  the  Lancastrians ; 
Bosworth,  where  Henry  VII.  defeated  Richard 
III.,  and  ended  the  War  of  the  Roses;  Edgehill, 
which  begun,  and  Naseby,  which  terminated,  the 
conflict  between  Charles  I.,  and  the  Parliament; 
and  Worcester,  where  Charles  II.  made  a  last 
effort  to  reverse  the  fortunes  of  Cromwell. 

Warwick  Castle,  two  miles  from  Leamington, 
guarded  by  embattled  walls  and  stupendous 
towers,  covered  without  with  ivy,  and  adorned 
within  by  frescoes  and  paintings,  is  situated  on 
elevated  ground,  which  slopes  down  to  the  Avon. 
It  is  at  the  present  time,  notwithstanding  its  an- 
tiquity, considered  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
castles  in  the  kingdom,  its  history  dating  back  to 
the  Conquest.  The  principal  towers  which  guard 
its  walls  are  Caesar's,  Guy's,  and  the  Clock, 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  33 

beneath  which  are  donjons  formerly  used  for 
prisoners.  In  the  great  hall  of  the  castle  are 
Cromwell's  helmet,  the  horse-trappings  used  by 
Queen  Elizabeth,  and  the  sword  and  porridge-pot 
of  the  nine-foot  giant,  Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick.  It 
was  here  that  Queen  Elizabeth  stopped  over 
night  on  her  way  to  visit  Dudley,  Earl  of  Leices- 
ter, at  Kenilworth,  and  though  several  centuries 
have  elapsed  since  then,  the  arrangement  of  the 
room  she  occupied  remains  the  same  to  this  day, 
under  its  present  owner,  Earl  George  Guy  Grev- 
ille.  In  the  conservatory  is  the  celebrated  War- 
wick vase,  found  at  the  bottom  of  the  lake  at 
Hadrian's  villa;  it  is  a  fine  specimen  of  Grecian 
sculpture,  cut  from  a  single  block  of  marble,  and 
will  hold  1 88  gallons. 

In  the  town  of  Warwick  is  St.  Mary's  Church, 
where  there  are  many  fine  monuments,  that  of 
Richard  Beauchamp,  Earl  of  Warwick,  being  one 
of  the  finest  in  England.  Here,  also,  is  buried 
Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  one  of  the  favorites  of 
Elizabeth,  the  fickle  queen,  lying  by  the  side  of 
his  third  wife,  who  survived  him.  His  first  wife 
was  Amy  Robsart,  whose  sad  fate  needs  no 
reminder;  his  second  likewise  died  —  of  poison  — 
at  the  hands  of  her  cruel  lord,  and  the  third  es- 
caped the  same  fate  through  a  mistake,  Leicester 
himself  taking  the  poisoned  draught  intended  for 
her;  these  crimes  being  induced  by  his  ambitious 
designs  to  obtain  the  hand  of  Elizabeth. 

3 


34  A    TOUR 

Leicester  Hospital,  which  furnishes  a  life  home 
for  twelve  veterans,  was  endowed  by  Dudley,  and 
is  an  ancient  and  picturesque  building. 

Kenilworth  Castle,  three  miles  from  Warwick, 
is  one  of  the  grandest  ruins  in  England,  its  ivy- 
covered  walls  teeming  with  the  romance  of  history, 
which  the  eloquent  pen  of  Sir  Walter  Scott  has 
transmitted  to  posterity.  The  castle  was  founded 
by  Geoffrey  de  Clinton,  and  Henry  III.  gave  it  to 
Simon  de  Montfort ;  John  of  Gaunt  and  Henry  IV. 
both  occupied  it,  and  Elizabeth  presented  it  to  her 
favorite,  Leicester,  who  entertained  her  here  with 
royal  magnificence.  Those  portions  of  the  ruins 
which  are  in  the  best  state  of  preservation  are,  the 
banqueting  hall,  where  feasts  and  revels  were  held 
with  boundless  extravagance,  and  the  tower,  in 
which  the  unfortunate  Amy  Robsart  was  confined 
previous  to  meeting  her  terrible  fate.  From  Ken- 
ilworth we  continued  to  Guy's  Cliff,  the  romantic 
spot  where  dwelt  the  Saxon  hero,  Guy,  Earl  of 
Warwick,  who  retired  here  to  a  hermit's  cave, 
after  a  series  of  marvellous  achievements,  and 
thence  we  drove  to  Stoneleigh  Abbey,  the  resi- 
dence of  Lord  Leigh,  who  has  an  area  of  6,000 
acres,  with  a  well-stocked  deer  park  and  fine 
grounds. 

Coventry,  five  miles  from  Kenilworth,  is  noted 
chiefly  as  the  scene  of  the  Lady  Godiva's  ride 
through  the  streets,  clothed  only  in  the  mantle  of 
modesty,  prompted  by  the  cruel  taunt  of  her  bus- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  35 

band,  King  Leofric,  who  consented,  on  these 
terms,  to  yield  to  her  a  charter  freeing  the  inhabi- 
tants from  the  unjust  taxation  to  which  they  had 
previously  been  subjected.  The  effigy  of  Peeping 
Tom,  whose  curiosity  cost  him  his  sight,  is  yet  to 
be  seen  on  the  sight  of  his  cobbler-shop,  the  place 
where  he  was  discovered. 

Stratford-on-Avon,  the  birthplace  and  burial- 
place  of  Shakespeare,  is  eight  miles  east  of  War- 
wick. The  house  in  which  this  immortal  genius 
was  born  is  quaint  and  humble,  and  remains  the 
same  as  when  Shakespeare  occupied  it.  In  one 
room  of  the  house  are  preserved  relics  of  the 
bard,  his  signet  ring,  sword,  manuscripts,  and 
other  documents  bearing  in  the  cross-mark  of  his 
father  and  sister,  evidence  of  their  illiteracy. 

Near  the  town  is  the  old  church  in  which 
Shakespeare  lies  buried,  his  wife  and  daughter 
lying  on  either  side  of  him  ;  and  in  a  niche  in  the 
chancel  is  a  bust  of  the  bard,  which  is  considered 
the  most  authentic  likeness  extant. 

The  slab  over  his  grave  bears  the  inscription, 
written  by  himself,  which  has  guarded  his  remains 
from  the  hand  of  desecration  to  this  day : 

"  Blest  be  he,  who  spares  my  bones, 
And  curs'd  be  he,  who  moves  these  stones." 

One  mile  distant  is  the  cottage  where  Anne 
Hathaway  lived;  the  house,  with  its  furniture  — 
including  the  bench  where  Shakespeare  made  love 


36  A    TOUR 

to  her  —  remains  unchanged;  and  is  occupied  by 
an  ancient  dame,  a  descendant  of  the  Hatha- 
ways. 

Chester,  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  England, 
founded  by  the  Romans,  is  on  the  river  Dee,  com- 
pletely surrounded  by  a  wall,  two  miles  in  circuit, 
which  is  now  used  as  a  promenade.  From  the 
Phoenix  Tower,  on  the  walls,  Charles  I.  witnessed 
the  defeat  of  his  army  by  Cromwell's  forces.  The 
castle,  erected  in  the  time  of  William  the  Con- 
querer,  is  well  preserved;  and  the  Cathedral  is  a 
venerable  structure  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  Saxon 
monastery.  The  characteristic  feature  of  the  town 
is  its  antique  and  singular  looking  houses,  with 
side-walks  for  pedestrians  on  the  second  story, 
which  are  bordered  by  shops. 

Liverpool,  on  the  river  Mersey,  is  noted  for 
the  magnificence  of  its  docks,  which  cover  200 
acres  in  extent,  and  has  15  miles  of  quays. 

Lancaster,  on  the  Lune,  has  a  fine  castle;  and 
is  noted  for  the  part  it  took  in  the  Wars  of  the 
Roses.  The  town  received  its  first  charter  from 
King  John,  and  now  gives  the  title  of  Duke  to  the 
Prince  of  Wales. 

Bowness,  on  Lake  Windermere,  opposite  Belle 
Isle,  is  a  charming  spot ;  and  from  the  overlook- 
ing heights  are  afforded  the  loveliest  views  of  lake 
and  landscape.  W'indermere,  the  most  beautiful  of 
all  the  English  lakes,  is  eleven  miles  long  and  one 
wide ;  small  steamers  ply  its  waters,  threading  its 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  37 

islands,  and  affording  glimpses  of  the  lovely  villas 
nestling  among  the  hills  on  its  banks. 

Taking  stage  from  Bowness  we  followed  Lake 
Windermere,  passing  Wray  Castle  and  Ambleside  ; 
then  Rydal  Waters,  on  which  is  the  home  and 
favorite  seat  of  the  poet  Wordsworth ;  "  Dove's 
Nest,"  where  lived  Mrs.  Hemans ;  the  cottage 
where  Coleridge  lived  and  died;  and  lastly  the 
lakes  Grasmere,  Thirlmere  and  Derwentwater. 
Near  the  latter  are  Keswick  and  the  beautiful  falls 
of  Lodore,  described  by  the  poet  Southey,  whose 
remains  lie  in  the  churchyard  near  by. 

Penrith,  environed  by  the  seats  of  many  of 
England's  nobility,  is  rioted  for  the  ruins  of  its  fine 
castle,  which  was  once  the  residence  of  Richard 
III.  From  here,  continuing  our  route,  we  stopped 
at  Carlisle,  in  order  to  visit  its  ancient  castle  and 
cathedral ;  then  passing  through  Newcastle,  noted 
for  its  coals,  whence  the  expression,  "  carrying 
coals  to  Newcastle;"  and  Durham,  celebrated  for 
its  fine  breed  of  cattle,  we  reached  York. 

This  city,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Ouse, 
whose  history  dates  back  1000  years  B.  C,  has  a 
population  of  55,000.  It  is  partially  inclosed  by 
ancient  walls,  the  top  of  which  afford  a  delightful 
promenade  and  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  sub- 
urbs. It  is  claimed  that  Constantine  the  Great 
was  born  in  York  in  272  A.  D.,  and  that  his 
father,  Constantius,  died  here  in  307  A.  D. 

This  city  has  always  held  a  conspicuous  place 


38  A    TOUR 

in  all  disturbances  of  the  country,  particularly  in 
the  Wars  of  the  Roses.  Its  objects  of  greatest  in- 
terest are,  the  old  castle  built  by  William  L,  the 
Cathedral,  the  second  largest  in  England  —  its 
length  being  524  feet — and  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
v  picturesque  abbey,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Ouse. 

From  Sheffield,  a  city  of  285,000  inhabitants, 
chiefly  noted  for  its  manufacture  of  cutlery,  we 
reached  our  next  point  of  destination,  Rowsley. 

This  place  is  the  nucleus  from  which  excursions 
are  made  to  Matlock  Baths,  the  vicinity  of 
Byron's  home ;  and  to  Haddon  Hall,  a  glorious 
old  ruin  teeming  with  romance,  which  dates  from 
the  time  of  William  the  Conqueror. 

From  Rowsley  a  beautiful  drive  brought  us  to 
Chatsworth  Hall,  the  magnificent  residence  of  the 
Duke  of  Devonshire,  considered  the  finest  home 
of  any  private  individual  in  the  world.  The  park 
comprises  2,000  acres,  and  the  gardens  and  con- 
servatories are  marvels  of  taste  and  beauty.  The 
picture-gallery  and  hall  of  sculpture  contain  a 
number  of  masterpieces,  and  the  walls  and  ceilings 
are  rich  in  frescoes.  All  that  wealth  and  refined 
taste  could  procure  are  here  combined  to  charm 
the  sense. 

Manchester,  the  great  manufacturing  centre  of 
England,  is  celebrated  for  its  immense  cotton 
mills,  and  its  iron  and  brass  foundries.  From  here 
we  continued  by  rail  through  northern  Wales  to 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  39 

visit  its  seaside  resorts  and  picturesque  coast 
scenery ;  stopping  at  Rhyl  and  Llandudno,  the 
most  fashionable  bathing-places;  Conway,  with 
its  romantic  old  castle  ;  and  Bettws-y-Coed,  two 
miles  from  which  is  the  Fairy  Glen  and  Cascades. 
At  Ffestiniog  we  took  a  miniature  railroad  with  a 
track  only  23  inches  wide — the  narrowest  in  the 
world — which  conveyed  us  for  20  miles  through 
the  immense  slate  quarries  of  that  country ;  and 
brought  us  to  Portmadoc,  where  we  resumed 
the  broad  guage  and  continued  our  journey  along 
the  coast,  via  Shrewsbury,  to  the  southern  shores 
of  England. 

Brighton,  55  miles  south  of  London,  the 
fashionable  watering  place  of  England,  has  a 
population  of  100,000.  The  favorite  drive,  five 
miles  in  extent,  borders  the  beach,  and  affords  a 
continuous  view  of  fashionable  equipages,  and  of 
the  bathers  beyond,  sporting  in  the  waves. 

Portsmouth,  a  fortified  city,  is  the  great  naval 
arsenal  of  the  United  Kingdom,  and  a  principal 
seaport  of  the  English  Channel.  Its  extensive 
storehouses  contain  every  article  required  for  the 
use  of  the  navy,  and  in  the  harbor  is  stationed 
Nelson's  flag-ship,  the  old  Victory,  on  which  the 
hero  breathed  his  last,  during  the  Battle  of  Tra- 
falgar. 

Newport,  the  capital  of  the  Isle  of  Wight,  is  in 
a  valley  surrounded  by  gardens,  groves  and 
orchards.  Carisbrooke  Castle,  one  mile  from 


40  A    TOUR 

Newport,  is  an  old  historic  ruin,  and  one  full  of 
interest.  Here  Charles  I.  fled  for  safety,  and  was 
afterwards  confined  a  prisoner  by  the  Governor, 
who  had  guaranteed  him  protection.  A  window, 
from  which  the  unfortunate  king  attempted  his 
escape,  is  still  shown,  with  the  iron  bars  partly 
filed  asunder ;  also  the  room  in  which  his  daugh- 
ter, the  Princess  Elizabeth,  was  found  dead,  her 
face  on  an  open  Bible  at  the  passage,  "  Come  unto 
me  all  ye  who  are  weary  and  heavy  laden,  and  I 
will  give  ye  rest." 

Cowes,  on  the  north  coast  of  the  same  island, 
has  many  lovely  drives  and  fine  residences. 
Among  the  latter  is  Osborne,  the  summer  palace 
of  the  Queen,  surrounded  by  a  large  park,  about 
two  miles  distant  from  the  town. 

Returning  to  Southampton,  a  seaport  on  the 
English  Channel,  we  took  steamer  for  Havre,  and 
bade  a  lingering  farewell  to  the  shores  of  old 
England. 


CHAPTER  V. 
HAVRE:   ROUEN:   PARIS,  —  ITS  ENVIRONS. 

CROSSING  the  English  Channel,  we  landed  at 
Havre,  a  strongly  fortified  seaport  town  on  the 
northern  coast  of  France,  with  a  population  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  41 

93,000,  and  next  to  Marseilles  in  commercial  im 
portance.  From  this  point  Richmond  embarked, 
with  troops  furnished  by  Charles  VIII.,  to  meet 
Richard  on  Bosworth  field.  Here  Bernadin  de 
St.  Pierre,  author  of  Paul  and  Virginia,  was  born  ; 
and  the  rocks  near  by  were  his  favorite  haunts. 

Rouen,  on  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  highly-cultivated  country  and  pictur- 
esque scenery.  The  cathedral,  whose  outer  walls 
are  ornamented  with  many  statues,  has,  among 
its  monuments,  one  beneath  which  rests  the  heart 
of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion. 

A  donjon  is  shown  in  the  Market  Place, 
where  Joan  of  Arc  was  confined  after  her  capture 
by  the  French  ;  and  in  the  Place  de  la  Pucelle  is 
a  monument  erected  on  the  spot  where  the  Maid 
was  burnt  at  the  stake,  in  1431. 

Between  Rouen  and  Paris  the  railroad  follows 
the  winding  course  of  the  river  Seine,  affording 
many  varied  and  picturesque  views. 

Paris,  the  gayest  and  most  beautiful  city  of 
the  world,  is  situated  on  level  ground  on  both 
banks  of  the  Seine,  and  is  a  place  of  2,225,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  centre  of  fashion  and 
luxury ;  has  many  fine  and  interesting  palaces 
and  cathedrals,  beautiful  parks,  and  wide,  clean 
streets  and  boulevards  lined  with  rows  of  trees, 
and  ornamented  with  costly  statuary  and  elaborate 
fountains. 

The    Garden    of  the   Tuileries   is   laid    out  in 


42  A    TOUR 

avenues  and  flower  beds,  and  adorned  with  stat- 
uary in  marble  and  bronze,  the  finest  of  these 
being  the  Laocoon  and  the  Rape  of  Sibyl. 

The  Place  de  la  Concorde,  the  handsomest 
square  in  Paris,  is  embellished  by  two  elaborate 
fountains  and  eight  colossal  statues,  representing 
the  principal  cities  of  France,  that  of  Strasburg 
being  draped  in  mourning.  The  Obelisk  of 
Luxor,  which  was  presented  to  the  French  Gov- 
ernment by  Mahomet  Pasha  of  Egypt,  now  stands 
in  the  centre  of  the  square  where  formerly  stood 
the  guillotine,  on  which  were  executed  Louis 
XVI.,  Marie  Antoinette,  Madame  Elizabeth, 
Robespierre,  and,  in  one  year  and  six  months, 
2,800  people. 

The  Champs  Elysees,  a  grand  avenue  a  mile 
and  a  half  in  length,  bordered  by  trees  and  walks, 
and  diversified  by  booths  and  cafes,  is  the  fashion- 
able drive  and  promenade  of  Paris.  At  the  end 
of  this  avenue  is  the  Arc-de-Triomphe  built  by 
Napoleon  I.,  in  commemoration  of  the  victories  of 
the  French  army  under  the  Republic  and  the  Em- 
pire. It  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  is  160 
feet  in  height,  and  was  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$2,000,000.  The  bas-reliefs  upon  its  sides  repre- 
sent :  "  The  departure  of  troops  to  the  Frontier  in 
1792,"  "The  Taking  of  Alexandria,"  "The 
Blessings  of  Peace,"  and  "  The  Triumph  of 
Napoleon." 

The  Colonne  Vendome,  an  imitation  of  Trajan's 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  43 

column,  towers  142  feet  high,  and  is  surmounted 
by  a  statue  of  Napoleon.  The  metal  of  which  it  is 
composed  is  the  melting  of  1,200  guns  taken  from 
the  Russians  and  Austrians;  and  the  reliefs  in 
bronze  represent  scenes  in  the  campaign  of  1805. 

The  Colonne  de  Juillet,  of  bronze,  154  feet 
high,  and  surmounted  by  a  figure  representing  the 
Genius  of  Liberty,  stands  where  was  once  the  Bas- 
tile,  a  state  prison,  destroyed  by  the  Communists 
during  the  late  Revolution,  and  was  erected  to  the 
memory  of  those  who  fell  in  defence  of  public 
liberty  in  1830. 

The  statue  of  Marshal  Ney  occupies  the  spot 
where  he  was  shot,  condemned  to  death  for  again 
joining  Napoleon's  standard  after  his  return  from 
exile,  and  the  equestrian  statue  of  Joan  of  Arc  is 
conspicuously  situated  opposite  the  Louvre. 

The  Bois  de  Boulogne,  said  to  be  the  finest 
park  in  the  world,  embraces  2,250  acres.  The 
roads  are  beautifully  graded,  and  bordered  with 
trees.  The  paths  diverge  from  the  main  avenues 
in  most  graceful  curves,  which,  with  the  lakes, 
grottoes  and  cascades,  unite  in  rendering  it  a  per- 
fect harmony  of  nature  and  art. 

The  Buttes  Chaumont,  a  beautiful  park  in  the 
suburbs  of  Paris,  was  the  last  work  of  Napoleon 
III.,  and  is  a  miniature  rocky  wilderness,  with 
lakes,  cascades  and  stalactite  grottoes.  It  occu- 
pies a  high  elevation  overlooking  Paris,  and  was 
the  stronghold  of  the  CommunistsJnMay  1871, 


UNIVERSITY 


44  A   TOUR 

from  which  point  they  threw  petroleum  shells  into 
the  city. 

In  Pere-la-Chaise  cemetery,  named  after  La 
Chaise,  Jesuit  confessor  of  Louis  XIV.,  are  the 
tombs  of  myriads  of  distinguished  dead.  Here 
lie  buried  Abelarde  and  Heloise,  Marshal  Ney, 
"the  bravest  of  the  brave,"  Lafayette,  Demidoff, 
Racine,  Lafontaine,  Thiers,  Rachel,  Eugene 
Scribe,  Rossini,  Chopin  and  Cherubini,  and  many 
of  the  generals  and  savans  of .  the  time  of  Napo- 
leon I. 

The  Pantheon,  a  magnificent  building,  mod- 
elled after  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  has  a  lofty 
dome  270  feet  high,  and  serves  as  a  place  of  sepul- 
ture to  many  of  the  great  men  of  France;  such 
names  as  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Marshal  Lannes, 
Montebello,  Mirabeau  and  Marat,  which  history 
has  rendered  immortal  for  good  or  evil. 

The  Catacombs  of  Paris,  which  were  once  im- 
mense quarries  of  stone,  undermining  one-tenth 
of  the  area  of  the  city,  were  in  1786  converted 
into  a  depository  for  the  dead  ;  when  the  bones  of 
3,000,000  people  were  collected  from  all  the 
cemeteries,  and  brought  hither  on  funeral  cars, 
followed  by  priests  chanting  the  service  for  the 
dead.  The  principal  entrance  is  through  the 
Porte  de  1'Enfer,  or  gate  of  hell,  and  ninety  steps 
lead  down  to  this  gloomy  subterranean  city.  On 
either  side  of  the  narrow  passage  ways  which 
intersect  this  labyrinth,  are  massed  bones  and 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  45 

skulls,  arranged  in  various  hideous  designs ;  and 
here  and  there  are  placards,  upon  which  are  in- 
scribed quotations  appropriate  to  the  sepulchral 
surroundings. 

The  Sewers  of  Paris  are  among  the  wonders  of 
subterranean  architecture,  being  only  inferior  to 
those  of  ancient  Rome.  The  main  sewer  is  trav- 
elled both  by  boat  and  tramway,  which  transport 
the  visitor,  a  distance  of  several  miles,  from  the 
Madeleine  to  the  Chatelet  Theatre. 

The  Palace  of  the  Tuileries,  now  in  ruins,  was 
burnt  by  the  Communists,  May  23,  1871.  It  was 
built  in  1564  by  Catherine  de  Medici,  on  the  site 
of  an  old  tile  factory,  from  which  it  derived  its 
name.  Here,  in  1572,  its  wicked  fotmder  gave  a 
fete,  four  days  previous  to  the  massacre  of  St.  Bar- 
tholomew, in  presence  of  both  Catholics  and  Pro- 
testants, and  had  her  son,  Charles  IX.  represented 
by  tableau  driving  the  Huguenots  into  hell.  This 
was  the  prelude  to  the  massacre  of  25,000  innocent 
people.  Here,  in  August  1792,  the  Swiss  Guard 
were  killed,  and  in  the  Place  du  Carrousel  Louis 
XIV.  gave,  in  1672,  that  splendid  tournament 
which  was  attended  by  guests  from  all  parts  of  the 
civilized  world. 

The  Palace  of  the  Louvre,  which  takes  its 
name  from  Louvrie  —  a  resort  for  wolves  —  is  a 
magnificent  gallery  of  art.  It  was  commenced  by 
Francis  I.  and  added  to  by  Napoleon  I.  and  Na- 
poleon III.,  and  embraces  several  acres  of  ground. 


46  A    TOUR 

It  was  from  the  southern  window  that  Charles  IX. 
gave  the  signal  for  the  massacre,  and  fired  on  the 
victims  of  St.  Bartholomew.  In  the  picture  gal- 
lery are  "The  Ascension"  by  Murillo,  and  "The 
Madonna  and  Child  "  by  Raphael,  besides  other 
celebrated  paintings  of  the  old  masters.  The 
sculpture  gallery  contains  the  famous  Venus  de 
Milo ;  also  statues  of  Minerva,  Melpomene,  Au- 
gustus Caesar  and  other  celebrities  of  antiquity. 
In  the  Egyptian  department  are  relics  brought 
from  Egypt  by  Champollion,  the  antiquarian,  and 
by  Napoleon  Bonaparte  —  sphinxes,  reliefs  and 
statues  rifled  from  the  palaces  and  tombs  of  the 
Theban  kings. 

The  Palais  Royal  was  erected  by  Cardinal 
Richelieu  in  1630;  and  presented  by  him  to 
Louis  XIII.  In  1793  it  was  confiscated  by  the 
Government,  and  at  present  its  gardens  —  inclosed 
by  numerous  jewelry  shops  dazzling  with  the 
glitter  of  gems  and  gaslight  —  are  open  to  the 
public. 

The  Palace  of  the  Luxembourg  was  built  by 
Marie  de  Medici,  and  was  bequeathed  by  her  to 
the  Duke  of  Orleans.  It  is  now  used  for  the  sit- 
tings of  the  Senate ;  and  what  was  formerly  the 
throne-room,  elegantly  frescoed  and  gilded,  is  now 
the  Council  Hall  for  its  members. 

The  Palace  of  Justice,  which  includes  the 
Courts  of  Law,  has  within  its  inclosure  the  Con- 
ciergerie,  used  as  a  prison  during  the  Reign  of 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  47 

Terror.  Here  most  of  the  political  prisoners  of  the 
Revolution  of  1797  were  confined,  and  the  cells 
occupied  by  the  unfortunate  Louis  XVI.  and  his 
family,  also  that  of  Robespierre  remain  un- 
changed. 

Notre  Dame,  one  of  the  old  landmarks  of  Paris, 
was  built  in  1160  by  Alexander  III.,  Pope  of 
Rome,  who  at  that  time  had  taken  refuge  in 
France.  Before  its  magnificent  altar  have  trans- 
pired many  of  the  notable  events  of  history  ;  here 
Napoleon  solemnized  his  marriage  with  Josephine, 
and  here  the  First  Consul  assumed  the  crown  of 
Empire. 

In  the  treasury  of  the  Cathedral  are  kept  the 
plate  and  jewels  of  the  church ;  the  rich  robes  of 
the  ecclesiastics,  and  the  embroidered  coronation 
mantle  of  Napoleon;  a  piece  of  the  True  Cross, 
and  a  fragment  of  the  Crown  of  Thorns.  At  the 
top  of  one  of  the  square  towers  hangs  the  famous 
Bourdon  bell,  which  recalls  to  mind  the  poor 
hunchback  of  Victor  Hugo's  novel  of  Notre  Dame. 
It  weighs  32,000  pounds  and  requires  the  strength 
of  eight  men  to  ring  it. 

The  Church  of  St.  Roche,  belonging  to  the 
wealthiest  parish  of  Paris,  was  commenced  about 
1633  ;  the  corner-stone  having  been  laid  by  Anne 
of  Austria  and  Louis  XIII.  From  the  steps  in 
front  of  this  church  Bonaparte  levelled  his  cannon 
on  the  mob  during  the  Directory. 

The  Madeleine,  built  in  1764,  during  the  reign 


48  A    TOUR 

of  Louis  XV.,  was  a  place  of  refuge,  in  1871,  of  the 
Communists  who  were  shot  down  without  quarter 
within  its  walls,  regardless  of  the  shelter  of  its 
sanctuary. 

The  Sainte  Chapelle,  erected  in  1245,  during 
the  reign  of  St.  Louis,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  Gothic 
architecture  ;  its  stained  glass  windows  illustrating 
scenes  from  the  Old  and  New  Testaments.  In 
the  wall  is  a  small  grated  window,  through  which 
Louis  XII.,  fearing  a  closer  contact  with  his  sub- 
jects, listened  to  the  services  of  the  church. 

The  Hotel  des  Invalides,  covering  31  acres, 
was  built  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1670,  for  5,000  pen- 
sioned soldiers.  The  gilded  dome,  which  is  340 
feet  from  the  ground,  can  be  seen  for  miles  off; 
and  beneath  it  is  a  circular  crypt  20  feet  deep, 
with  polished  granite  walls,  and  adorned  with 
marble  reliefs.  The  mosaic  pavement  at  the  bot- 
tom, represents  a  wreath  of  laurel,  from  the  centre 
of  which  rises  the  massive  porphyry  sarcophagus 
which  contains  the  ashes  of  the  great  Napoleon. 
Twelve  statues  surround  the  monolith,  and  record 
his  principal  victories ;  not  far  off  are  Vauban 
and  Turenne ;  while  Jerome  and  Joseph  Bona- 
parte, are  near  him  —  in  death  as  in  life.  Over 
the  door  of  the  crypt  are  engraved  the  hero's  last 
words :  "  I  desire  that  my  ashes  may  rest  on  the 
banks  of  the  Seine,  in  the  midst  of  the  French 
people  whom  I  have  loved  so  well." 

The   Church  of  the  "  Invalides,"  which  over- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  49 

shadows  the  tomb  of  Napoleon,  is  adorned  with 
battle-flags  taken  by  him  in  Egypt.  Every  Sun- 
day, at  12  o'clock,  a  military  Mass  is  performed  to 
the  beat  of  the  drum,  when  the  veterans,  some  of 
whom  are  blind  and  crippled  and  bent  with  age, 
march  in  to  the  sound  of  military  music,  escorted 
by  the  Veteran  Guard.  While  they  perform  their 
devotions  the  organ  renders  the  "  Vox  Humana" 
— a  wonderful  imitation  of  a  choir  of  human  voices 
heard  from  a  great  distance ;  and  altogether  the 
service  is  very  impressive  and  beautiful. 

The  Grand  Opera  House  on  the  Place  de 
1'Opera,  is  the  finest  building  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  having  cost  the  nation  nearly  $20,060,000, 
and  was  built  in  1860.  The  carriage-way  leading 
to  the  Imperial  box,  the  grand  staircase,  prome- 
nades and  buffets,  are  excellent  specimens  of 
architectural  skill,  while  the  entire  interior  is  gilded 
and  frescoed  with  lavish  extravagance. 

The  Gobelin  Tapestry  Works,  founded  in  1450 
by  Jean  Gobelin,  was  for  a  long  time  a  private 
establishment,  but  in  1662  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Government.  The  carpets  and  hangings 
made  here  are  unrivalled  for  their  fineness  and 
brilliancy  of  color,  and  are  mostly  copies  of  Le 
Brun's  paintings.  At  one  time  they  were  destined 
chiefly  for  palaces,  and  as  gifts  to  foreign  poten- 
tates, but  can  now  be  purchased  at  fabulous 
prices. 

The  Hotel  de  Cluny,  built  in  the  i$th  century 


50  A    TOUR 

by  the  abbots  of  Cluny,  is  at  present  a  museum 
containing  a  valuable  collection  of  objects  of  art 
and  antiquities  of  the  Middle  Ages.  Among 
these  may  be  seen  specimens  of  Flemish  tapestry, 
Roman  sculpture  and  carved  altars. 

The  summer  concerts  on  the  Champs  Elysees 
are  both  novel  and  interesting.  Stage  perform- 
ances are  given  in  the  open  air,  the  audience  being 
permitted  to  smoke  and  drink  during  the  enter- 
tainment. 

The  students'  balls  in  the  Latin  quarter  now 
take  the  place  of  the  Jardin  Mabille,  and  are  no- 
torious for  the  license  permitted  its  frequenters, 
the  style  of  dancing  witnessed  there,  being  more 
free  than  elegant. 

The  Palace  of  Versailes,  16  miles  from  Paris, 
was  built  by  Louis  XIV.  about  the  year  1670. 
Wishing  to  build  a  palace  which  would  eclipse 
any  other  in  Europe,  he  employed  the  celebrated 
architect  Levan  to  design  the  building,  Le  Notre 
to  plan  the  grounds,  and  Le  Brun  to  decorate  the 
apartments.  Sixty  miles  of  country  were  pur- 
chased for  this  purpose,  hills  were  levelled  and 
valleys  raised,  and  water  brought  from  great  dis- 
tances to  supply  the  numerous  fountains.  Over 
$200,000,000  is  said  to  have  been  expended,  and 
that,  with  the  extravagance  of  the  Court,  im- 
poverished France,  and  was  the  indirect  cause 
of  the  Revolution  of  1789.  Approaching  the 
palace  on  either  side  are  colossal  marble  statues 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  51 

of  warriors  and  statesmen  ;  and  in  the  centre  of 
the  court  is  the  bronze  equestrian  figure  of  Louis 
XIV.  The  grounds  surrounding  the  palace  are 
magnificent ;  lakes,  grottoes  and  statuary  diversi- 
fying the  landscape.  Fifty-six  fountains  of  elabo- 
rate design  complete  the  beauty  of  the  scene  ;  one 
of  them,  Neptune,  having  seventy  jets,  which 
throw  water  to  the  height  of  75  feet,  and  which 
costs  $2,000  each  time  its  waters  play.  In  this 
palace  Louis  XIV.  died,  Louis  XV.  was  born, 
and  escaped  being  assassinated  by  Damiens,  Marie 
Antoinette  was  attacked  by  the  mob,  and  from  it 
Louis  XVI.  addressed  the  infuriated  populace. 
After  the  fall  of  Napoleon  L,  it  was  occupied  suc- 
cessively by  Louis  XVIII. ,  Charles  V.,  Louis 
Philippe,  Napoleon  III.,  and  Thiers.  Here  Queen 
Victoria  was  entertained,  in  1855,  by  Napoleon 
III.  ;  and  here  King  William  of  Prussia  was  de- 
clared Emperor  of  Germany  in  1871.  The  paint- 
ings, frescoes,  and  statuary  of  the  palace  are  ex- 
ceedingly fine ;  notably  a  marble  statue  repre- 
senting the  last  moments  of  Napoleon  L,  and 
paintings  of  his  coronation  before  the  altar  of 
Notre  Dame,  and  of  the  presentation  of  standards 
to  his  army  by  this  great  general.  Within  the 
limits  of  Versailles  are  the  Grand  Trianon  built  by 
Louis  XIV.  for  Madame  de  Maintenon  ;  the  Petit 
Trianon,  built  by  Louis  XV.  for  Madame  du 
Barry  ;  and  the  Swiss  cottage,  in  which  the  lovely 
but  heedless  Marie  Antoinette  sought  relief  from 


52  A    TOUR 

the  irksome  trammels  of  the  etiquette  of  the 
French  Court.  Among  the  state  carriages  and 
sleighs  are  those  of  many  successive  sovereigns, 
the  most  magnificent  of  these  being  the  state 
carriage,  built  for  the  coronation  of  Charles  X.  at 
a  cost  of  $200,000,  last  used  by  Napoleon  III.,  and 
considered  the  finest  in  the  world. 

The  Palace  of  Fontainebleau  is  40  miles  from 
Paris,  and  dates  from  the  reign  of  Louis  VII.  in  the 
1 2th  century.  Here,  the  Great  Conde  died,  and  it 
was  here  the  son  of  Louis  XV.  fell  a  victim  to 
poison  in  1/65.  Here,  Queen  Christina  of  Swe- 
den caused  her  secretary,  Monaldeschi,  to  be 
assassinated  ;  and  here  Charles  IV.  of  Spain  was 
kept  in  captivity ;  as  was  also  Pope  Pius  VII., 
retained  by  Napoleon  Bonaparte  in  1812,  for  a 
space  of  eighteen  months,  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
ducing him  to  resign  his  temporal  power.  Here 
was  pronounced  the  decree  of  divorce  between 
Napoleon  and  the  unhappy  Josephine ;  and,  here 
also,  where  he  signed  his  abdication,  and  took 
leave  of  the  remnant  of  his  old  guard,  who  had 
followed  him  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of  war 
until  the  moment  of  his  departure  for  Elba.  This 
was  the  subject  of  the  celebrated  painting:  "  Les 
Adieux  de  Fontainebleau." 

In  one  of  the  apartments  of  the  palace  is  still 
to  be  seen  a  table,  upon  which  the  deposed  sover- 
eign signed  his  abdication,  and  which  bears  a  deep 
gash  from  the  pen-knife  of  the  incensed  hero.  In 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  53 

the  midst  of  the  grounds  is  a  lovely  lake,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  an  island  containing  a  small 
pavilion,  reached  only  by  boat,  where  Napoleon 
was  wont  to  retire  with  his  generals  to  discuss 
military  measures. 

St.  Cloud  Palace,  six  miles  from  Paris,  on  the 
Seine,  is  now  in  ruins,  having  been  shelled  in 
1870  by  the  French  from  Fort  Valerian,  in  order 
to  dislodge  the  Prussians  who  occupied  it.  It  was 
built  in  1658  by  Louis  XIV.  and  presented  to  the 
Duke  of  Orleans ;  and  was  afterwards  purchased 
by  Louis  XVI.,  for  Marie  Antoinette.  Here  Henry 
III.  was  assassinated  ;  and  here  again,  Napoleon 
Bonaparte  laid  the  foundation  of  his  power ;  and 
later,  in  1815,  Bliicher  held  his  headquarters.  It 
was  here  that  Charles  X.  signed  the  fatal  ordin- 
ance which  cost  him  his  throne ;  and  here  the 
capitulation  of  Paris  was  signed  in  1871.  The 
palace  stands  on  an  eminence  overlooking  Paris, 
and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds,  in  which 
is  a  cascade  noted  for  its  size  and  beauty. 

Malmaison,  formerly  a  hospital,  but  afterwards 
selected  by  Josephine  as  a  place  of  residence  after 
her  divorce  from  Napoleon,  and  elegantly  fitted  up 
by  him,  is  situated  ten  miles  from  Paris.  Here 
the  Emperor  was  in  the  habit  of  visiting  his 
divorced  wife  ;  seeking  its  retirement  to  plan  some 
of  his  campaigns,  and  here  he  came  to  bid  a  last 
farewell  to  Josephine,  ere  he  took  his  departure  for 
Elba.  In  the  adjoining  church  are  fine  monu- 


54  A    TOUR 

ments  over  the  remains  of  Josephine  and   Hor- 
tense. 

The  Palace  of  St.  Germain  crowns  the  summit 
of  a  terraced  elevation  commanding  a  fine  vie.w  of 
the  valley  of  the  Seine  and  the  heights  of  Mount 
Valerian.  It  was  here  that  Francis  I.  was  mar- 
ried, and  James  II.  of  England  passed  the  period 
of  exile. 

Sevres,  where  is  manufactured  the  most  beau- 
tiful porcelain  ware,  was  founded  in  1737,  and  has 
been  in  the  hands  of  the  French  Government  for 
over  100  years.  The  process  of  manufacture  is 
most  interesting,  and  the  show-rooms  contain 
beautiful  and  valuable  copies  on  porcelain  of  paint- 
ings from  Raphael,  Michael  Angelo,  and  Titian. 

St.  Denis,  six  miles  from  Paris,  is  chiefly 
interesting  on  account  of  the  Abbey  church  which 
has  been  the  burial-place  of  the  kings  of  France, 
from  Dagobert,  580,  to  Louis  XVIII.  During 
the  first  revolution,  by  decree  of  the  Convention 
the  tombs  were  rifled  of  their  contents,  and  the 
remains  of  kings  and  queens  thrown  into  one 
common  ditch.  In  the  royal  vault  are  the  remains 
of  Marie  Antoinette,  Louis  XVI.  and  Louis 
XVIII. ,  and  among  the  magnificent  monuments 
are  those  of  Henry  II.  and  Catherine  de  Medici, 
Louis  XII.  and  Anne  of  Brittany,  Francis  II., 
Henry  III.  and  the  Duke  de  Berri. 

In  the  crypt  is  kept  the  sarcophagus  in  which 
Charlemagne  was  interred  at  Aix-la-Chapelle. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  55 


CHAPTER  VI. 

BRUSSELS  :      BATTLE-FIELD    OF    WATERLOO  :      VILVORDE  : 

ANTWERP:  ROTTERDAM:  SCHEVENINGEN  :  THE 
HAGUE  :  AMSTERDAM  :  ZAANDAM  :  BREMEN  I  HAM- 
BURG. 

BRUSSELS,  the  capital  of  Belgium,  is  on  the  river 
Senne,  and  has  171,000  inhabitants.  The  fortifi- 
cations of  a  century  ago  have  all  been  removed, 
and  on  their  site  are  beautiful  boulevards  and 
walks  bordered  with  stately  linden  trees  extending 
for  five  miles  around  the  city.  The  handsomest 
square  is  that  directly  in  front  of  the  king's 
palace,  containing  several  fine  fountains.  Among 
the  statues  seen  are  those  of  Geoffrey  de  Bouillon 
and  Leopold  I.,  and  also  that  of  the  Mannikin — a 
fountain,  remarkable  for  its  peculiar  and  unique 
design. 

The  Bois  de  Cambre  and  Forest  of  Soignies 
are  the  fashionable  drives,  which  extend  for  miles 
in  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 

Among  its  finest  buildings  are  the  old  and  new 
Houses  of  Parliament,  the  latter  having  cost 
$10,000,000. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville,  erected  in  1400,  is  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  remarkable  edifices  of  the 


56  A    TOUR 

Gothic  style ;  its  pyramidal  tower  rising  364 
feet  high.  In  one  portion  of  the  building  are  the 
Senate  and  Assembly  rooms,  adorned  with  por- 
traits of  late  kings  and  members,  while  in  another 
are  the  keys  of  the  city ;  and  here  the  drawing  of 
the  National  Lottery  takes  place.  The  ball-room 
is  elaborately  carved  and  hung  with  some  fine 
specimens  of  Gobelin  tapestry  ;  it  was  here  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  attended  the  ball  given  by  the 
Countess  of  Richmond  the  night  previous  to  the 
battle  of  Waterloo. 

The  old  palace  built  in  1300,  was  formerly 
the  residence  of  the  Spanish  and  Austrian  gov- 
ernors of  the  Netherlands,  but  is  now  a  museum  ; 
and  contains  a  large  collection  of  paintings  and 
curiosities. 

The  Wiertz  Gallery  of  paintings  is  a  most 
peculiar  collection  by  this  eccentric  artist.  In  it 
are  pictures  representing  Napoleon  in  hell;  a 
woman  who  had  been  buried  alive  breaking  from 
the  cerements  of  the  grave  ;  a  scene  in  the  infernal 
regions ;  Quasimodo,  the  hunchback  of  Notre 
Dame ;  and  Life  and  Death,  represented  in  the 
forms  of  two  young  girls ;  all  of  which  are  of  the 
same  repulsive  character. 

Brussels  was  once  famous  for  the  manufacture 
of  carpets,  but  they  are  now  no  longer  made  here. 
Lace  is  an  important  article  of  manufacture  and 
export,  those  varieties  generally  preferred  being 
Point,  Point  Applique,  Duchesse,  and  Chantilly. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  57 

In  the  factories  are  the  partly- underground  work- 
rooms, in  which  women  weave  the  dainty  webs  of 
lace  in  the  damp  and  semi-obscurity,  where  more 
than  half  their  lives  are  spent.  Owing  to  the  ex- 
treme delicacy  of  their  work,  only  a  ray  of  light  is 
allowed  to  rest  upon  the  one  spot  on  which 
their  gaze  is  riveted.  We  saw  old  women  and 
young  girls,  their  eyes  dim  to  all  objects  save  that 
to  which  their  sight  was  trained. 

The  battle-field  of  Waterloo,  twelve  miles  from 
Brussels,  is  of  less  extent  than  one  would  imagine 
from  the  importance  of  the  contest,  and  from  pre- 
conceived ideas,  the  line  of  battle  covering  an 
area  of  scarcely  three  miles.  In  "  Les  Mis- 
erables,"  Victor  Hugo  has  given  a  magnificent 
description  of  this  celebrated  battle.  On  the 
field  we  noted  many  points  of  historic  interest — 
the  "  Cross  Roads,"  —  Wellington's  headquar- 
ters—  "La  Belle  Alliance,"  —  those  of  Napo- 
leon— directly  opposite  each  other,  and  only  a  mile 
apart;  "La  Haye  Sainte,"  the  headquarters  of  the 
Hanoverians ;  and  "  Hougomont,"  with  its  brick 
walls,  burnt  crucifix,  and  well  once  filled  with 
human  skeletons.  We  also  saw  the  place  where 
the  Scotch  Grays  charged,  the  spot  where  the 
heroic  Highland  piper  sat,  with  both  legs  shot  off, 
cheering  on  his  countrymen  with  the  sound  of 
their  beloved  bagpipes,  the  locality  where  Ney 
fought  so  desperately,  and  the  sunken  road  of 
Ohain,  into  which  the  charging  troops  of  France, 


58  A   TOUR 

inadvertently  plunged,    horse  and  man,  to  their 
destruction. 

Vilvorde,  6^4,  miles  from  Brussels,  is  particu- 
larly noted  as  being  the  home  of  Tyndale,  the 
translator  of  the  Bible,  who  suffered  martyrdom 
here  in  the  cause  of  religion. 

Antwerp,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Scheldt,  is 
the  chief  port  of  Belgium,  and  has  a  population  of 
163,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  strongly  fortified 
cities  in  Europe,  and  before  the  1 5th  century  was 
almost  without  a  rival  among  the  commercial 
cities  of  the  globe.  The  treaty  of  Westphalia,  in 
1648,  almost  ruined  her  commerce,  but  Bonaparte 
made  it  his  naval  arsenal,  and  since  that  time  it 
has  somewhat  recovered  its  former  prestige. 
Rubens,  Vandyke,  Jordaens,  and  other  great  mas- 
ters, were  natives  of  Antwerp,  and  the  best  of 
their  productions  are  found  here  to-day. 

The  Cathedral,  a  magnificent  specimen  of  ec- 
clesiastical architecture,  is  of  vast  dimensions.  In 
the  tower,  the  steeple  of  which  is  466  feet  in 
height,  are  eighty-two  chime-bells,  which  are 
noted  for  their  sweetness  and  purity  of  tone.  The 
interior  of  the  cathedral  corresponds  in  grandeur 
with  the  exterior,  being  elaborate  in  carvings  of 
brass,  marble  and  wood.  Here  is  Rubens' 
masterpiece,  the  Descent  from  the  Cross  ;  also  his 
Resurrection,  Elevation  to  the  Cross,  and  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin. 

The  Church  of  St.  Jacques  is  the  handsomest 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  59 

in  the  city,  and  contains  the  vaults  of  most  of  the 
leading  families  of  Antwerp.  Among  these  is 
the  tomb  of  Rubens,  who  lies  buried  behind  the 
high  altar. 

In  St.  Paul's  Church  is  Rubens'  painting  of  the 
Scourging  of  Christ.  The  grounds  belonging  to 
the  church  contain  a  representation  of  Mount 
Calvary.  At  the  summit  of  this  rocky  elevation 
—  100  feet  high — is  an  image  of  Christ  on  the 
Cross,  at  the  base  of  which  is  a  model  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre ;  and  below  this  is  represented  the  in- 
fernal regions  filled  with  people  in  torment,  while 
life-size  figures  of  apostles,  saints,  and  angels,  are 
grouped,  standing  and  hovering  about  the  scene. 

The  Museum,  which  has  a  splendid  collection 
of  paintings,  comprises  the  choicest  specimens  of 
the  Flemish  school.  Here  is  Vandyke's  master- 
piece, the  Crucifixion,  Quentin  Matsys'  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  Van  Lerins'  Lady  Godiva,  and 
Rubens'  Crucifixion  of  Christ  between  the  two 
Thieves.  Near  one  of  the  churches  is  an  iron 
canopy  of  marvellous  design,  the  work  of  Quentin 
Matsys,  the  blacksmith  artist  of  Antwerp.  He 
fell  in  love  with  the  daughter  of  a  celebrated 
painter,  but  the  obdurate  father  refused  consent  to 
his  suit,  resolved  that  his  daughter  should  wed 
only  with  one  of  his  own  calling.  Abandoning 
the  anvil,  Quentin  Matsys  assumed  the  brush, 
and  eventually  surpassing  her  father  in  his  own 
art,  won  the  daughter's  hand. 


60  A    TOUR 

Rotterdam,  the  second  city  in  Holland  in 
point  of  population  and  commerce,  has  153,000 
inhabitants,  a  magnificent  harbor,  superb  docks, 
and  many  canals,  these  latter  are  as  numerous  as 
the  streets,  and  upon  them  is  done  the  principal 
traffic,  communication  being  maintained  by  draw- 
bridges and  ferry-boats.  The  houses  are  of  red 
brick,  tall  and  quaint,  thoroughly  Dutch  in  aspect, 
one  general  feature  being  an  arrangement  of  two 
mirrors  placed  at  an  angle  outside  the  windows, 
giving  the  inmates  views  of  all  that  is  passing  in 
the  streets. 

Rotterdam  was  the  birthplace  of  Erasmus,  the 
celebrated  Dutch  scholar,  and  his  statue  in  bronze 
adorns  the  market-place,  while  in  the  park  stands 
the  marble  statue  of  Holland's  favorite  poet,  Tol- 
lens. 

Scheveningen,  a  fashionable  watering  place,  is 
three  miles  from  the  Hague,  environed  by  fine 
residences  and  a  wooded  country;  it  is  much  fre- 
quented by  the  Dutch  for  its  fine  beach  and  surf 
bathing.  From  here  Charles  II.  embarked  for 
England  after  the  downfall  of  Richard  Cromwell. 

The  Hague,  originally  the  hunting-seat  of  the 
Counts  of  Holland,  and  so  called  from  the  hedge 
which  surrounded  their  lodge,  is  indebted  to  Louis 
Napoleon  for  conferring  upon  it  the  privileges  of  a 
city,  and  at  present  ranks  as  the  political  capital  of 
the  kingdom.  The  streets  are  wide  and  lined 
with  trees;  the  principal  buildings  being  the  King's 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  6 1 

Palace,  the  Queen's  Cottage,  and  the  Museum, 
which  contains  Rembrandt's  celebrated  painting 
of  an  Anatomical  Examination,  and  Paul  Potter's 
Bull,  the  latter  valued  at  $100,000. 

Amsterdam,  "the  dike  or  dam  Amstel,"  is  built 
on  piles,  and  intersected  by  canals  which  are 
spanned  by  300  bridges  dividing  the  city  into 
ninety  islands.  Diamond  cutting  has  here  attained 
its  great  perfection,  and  gives  employment  to 
hundreds  of  men  and  women;  the  polishing  is 
done  with  diamond  dust  on  a  wheel  which  revolves 
at  the  rate  of  2,000  revolutions  a  minute,  and  the 
cutting  is  done  by  hand  with  a  like  stone ;  hence 
the  origin  of  the  expression  "diamond  cut  dia- 
mond." 

The  palace  is  occupied  by  the  king  for  only 
one  month  of  the  year.  The  ball-room,  125  feet 
in  length,  is  finished  in  Italian  marble,  and  is 
considered  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe.  The  Jews' 
quarter  in  Amsterdam  is  occupied  by  60,000  of 
that  race ;  and  the  characteristic  type  is  marked 
on  every  face. 

Zaandam,  on  an  arm  of  the  Zuyder  Zee,  six 
miles  from  Amsterdam,  has  a  population  of  1 3,000. 
Its  inhabitants  are  primitive  both  in  customs  and 
dress ;  the  streets  are  narrow,  paved  with  brick, 
and  without  sidewalks  ;  the  houses  are  very  small, 
quaint  and  painted  green,  as  a  rule,  and  the  whole 
town  is  scrupulously  clean  :  a  horse  or  other  beast 
of  burden  being  rarely  seen.  Zaandam  is  noted 


62  A    TOUR 

for  its  400  windmills,  and  for  its  being  the  scene 
of  the  self-exile  of  Peter  the  Great,  who  resorted 
thither,  disguised  as  a  common  workman,  to  learn 
the  art  of  ship-building;  the  cottage  in  which  he 
lived,  containing  his  work-bench,  bed  and  chairs, 
is  still  extant;  and  a  tablet  over  the  mantel,  placed 
there  by  the  Emperor  Alexander,  bears  the  in- 
scription:  "Nothing  too  small  for  a  great  man." 

Bremen,  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Weser,  has 
a  population  of  113,000.  It  was  formerly  an  in- 
dependent and  free  city,  but  was  added  to  Prussia 
in  1867,  and  is  now  garrisoned  by  troops  of  the 
German  Empire.  Its  harbor  is  good,  and  ship- 
ping extensive;  its  snuff  manufactories  are  the 
largest  in  the  world. 

Hamburg,  a  free,  imperial  city  of  Germany,  is 
on  the  Elbe,  75  miles  from  its  mouth;  popula- 
tion, 290,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  important 
commercial  cities  of  the  world,  and  its  lines  of 
steamers  run  regularly  to  China,  Japan,  the  West 
Indies  and  America.  It  has  some  fine  public 
buildings  and  handsome  streets,  but  nothing  of 
special  interest  to  detain  the  traveller. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  63 


CHAPTER  VII. 

COPENHAGEN  :  ELSINORE  :  JONKOPING  :  GOTTENBURG  : 
THE  GOTHA  CANAL:  THE  FALLS  OF  TROLHATTA : 
CHRISTIANIA  I  MUSTAD  :  TRONDHJEM  :  STOCKHOLM  : 
UPSALA : 

COPENHAGEN,  the  capital  of  Denmark,  is  on  the 
east  coast  of  the  Island  of  Zeeland,  and  has 
236,000  inhabitants.  The  city  is  enclosed  by  a 
line  of  fortifications  —  now  used  as  a  promenade 
—  mounting  150  cannon;  and  the  harbor  is  pro- 
tected by  the  Castle  of  Frederickshavn,  which  is 
considered  impregnable. 

Rosenborg  Palace  was  built  in  1604;  it  ceased 
long  ago  to  be  a'  royal  residence,  and  contains  at 
present  a  collection,  belonging  to  Danish  kings,, 
made  at  the  death  of  Christian  IV.,  in  1648. 
Several  rooms  are  devoted  to  relics  of  each  of  the 
kings  —  comprising  the  furniture,  arms,  jewels  and 
garments  of  the  different  eras,  and  the  banqueting 
hall,  hung  in  tapestry,  contains  the  coronation 
chairs  made  of  the  ivory  of  the  narwhal,  con- 
sidered in  former  days  worth  its  weight  in  silver. 

Thorwaldsen's  Museum,  built  in  1848,  for 
the  exclusive  purpose  of  containing  the  works  of 
this  famous  sculptor,  is  of  the  Grecian  sepulchral 


64  A   TOUR 

style  of  architecture,  surmounted  by  a  bronze 
figure  of  Victory  in  a  chariot,  driving  four  fiery 
horses.  The  whole  number  of  Thorwaldsen's 
works  in  this  museum  are  300  ;  among  them  are 
Jason  and  the  Golden  Fleece,  which  first  gave  the 
sculptor  his  renown ;  an  equestrian  figure  of 
Prince  Joseph  Poniatowski,  Pope  Pius  VII.,  the 
Graces,  Night  aud  Morning,  the  Ages  of  Love, 
and  the  bust  of  Martin  Luther ;  this  latter,  his 
last  work,  was  left  unfinished.  In  the  centre  of  the 
court  lie  the  remains  of  Thorwaldsen,  whose  name 
and  genius  command  the  highest  love  and  respect. 
The  tomb  is  a  simple,  ivy-covered,  granite  slab, 
his  greatest  monument  being  his  works,  which 
surround  him. 

Christiansborg  Palace  contains  the  royal  pic- 
ture gallery,  with  fine  paintings  by  Danish  artists. 
Among  them  are  Christian  II.  in  Prison,  and 
Samson  at  the  Mill,  by  Block ;  A  Fisherman's 
Home,  and  Rent-day,  by  Dalsgand.  In  the  ban- 
queting room  is  Thorwaldsen's  famous  frieze  of 
Alexander's  entrance  into  Babylon. 

The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  is  adorned  exclu- 
sively with  the  works  of  Thorwaldsen,  whose  re- 
mains were  followed  here  by  the  royal  family,  and 
all  the  high  officials  of  the  Government.  These 
works  comprise  twelve  colossal  marble  statues  of 
the  Apostles,  a  Figure  of  Christ,  and,  the  gem 
of  all,  the  kneeling  figure  of  an  Angel  holding  a 
shell,  which  forms  the  baptismal  font. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  65 

Trinity  Church,  with  its  famous  round  tower, 
was  erected  by  Christian  IV.  for  an  observatory. 
The  tower  is  ascended  within  by  means  of  a  spiral 
inclined-plane,  up  which  the  Empress  Catherine, 
in  1716,  drove  four  horses,  Peter  the  Great  pre- 
ceding her  on  horseback. 

Elsinore,  40  miles  north  of  Copenhagen,  is 
situated  on  the  Sound,  only  a  mile  distant  from 
the  Swedish  coast.  Here  is  the  Castle  of  Kron- 
borg,  a  fortress  commanding  the  Sound,  erected 
in  I  574  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  dues  enforced 
on  all  vessels  going  to  or  coming  from  the  Baltic. 
The  place  is  interesting  from  its  association  with 
Shakespeare's  tragedy  of  Hamlet,  the  battlements 
of  the  square  tower  of  this  castle  being  the  scene 
where  the  ghost  of  Hamlet's  father  "  was  doomed 
for  a  certain  term  to  walk  the  night."  On  a  ter- 
race to  the  north  of  the  town,  in  a  grove  of  trees, 
is  a  pile  of  stones  shown  as  Hamlet's  grave,  and 
close  by  is  Ophelia's  brook. 

Many  of  Shakespeare's  dramas,  modified  and 
embellished  by  fiction,  are  founded  on  fact. 
Hamlet  was  really  a  native  of  Jutland,  a  section  of 
Denmark,  where  his  father  was  a  famous  pirate- 
chief,  and  associate  governor  with  his  brother  of 
the  northern  portion  of  the  country.  Hamlet's 
father  had  married  the  daughter  of  the  Danish 
king,  and  was  subsequently  murdered  by  his  own 
brother,  who  married  his  widow,  and  succeeded  to 
the  government  of  the  whole  of  Jutland.  Hamlet, 


66  A   TOUR 

who  was  a  pagan,  deeming  it  his  first  duty  to 
avenge  his  father,  feigned  madness  in  order  to  en- 
compass his  ends,  and  contriving  to  slay  his  uncle 
became  Governor  of  Jutland,  and  was  eventually 
killed  in  battle.  The  name  Hamlet,  pronounced 
by  the  Danes  Amlet,  signifies  madman. 

Jdnkoping,  on  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake 
Wetter,  is  an  old  Swedish  town,  which  was  set 
on  fire  in  1612  by  Gustavus  Adolphus,  to  prevent 
it  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  It 
was  here  that,  in  1 809,  the  treaty  of  peace  between 
Sweden  and  Denmark  was  signed.  This  town  is 
best  known  as  the  place  of  manufacture  of  the 
famous  Swedish  matches,  made  without  sulphur 
or  phosphorus,  and  since  imitated  in  other  coun- 
tries. 

Gottenburg,  the  first  commercial,  and  second 
largest  city  in  Sweden,  has  a  population  of  75,000. 
It  is  situated  on  the  Gotha  river,  and  has  a  fine 
harbor,  but  is  by  no  means  an  attractive  city. 
The  military  governor  resides  here,  and  in  the 
building  occupied  by  him  Charles  XL,  of  the 
Palatinate  line,  died  in  1660. 

The  Gotha  Canal  is  the  general  name  given  to 
the  entire  water  highway  between  Gottenburg 
and  Stockholm  —  each  artificial  connection  having 
its  individual  name  —  which  joins  the  waters  of  the 
North  Sea  to  those  of  the  Baltic.  The  total 
length  of  the  entire  route  is  260  miles,  while  the 
artificial  portions  are  57  miles  in  length,  and  in- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  6/ 

elude  53  locks.  The  work  on  the  canal  was  be- 
gun in  the  1 6th  century,  and  was  in  course  of  con- 
struction during  the  reigns  of  successive  monarchs. 
Travelling  through  this  route  one  sees  most  won- 
derful specimens  of  engineering,  and  while  the 
steamer  ascends,  through  numerous  locks,  ap- 
parently a  succession  of  gigantic  steps,  one  has  an 
opportunity  to  explore  the  surrounding  country, 
and  to  see  some  of  the  grandest  scenery  and 
finest  waterfalls  in  Sweden. 

The  Falls  of  Trolhatta,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Wener,  seven  in  number,  108  feet  in  height,  and 
covering  a  distance  of  480  feet,  are  sixty  miles 
from  Gottenburg.  The  view  obtained  of  the 
Rapids,  and  of  the  whole  series  of  falls,  from  a 
rocky  eminence  overhanging  the  river,  is  one  of 
extreme  beauty.  The  locks  on  the  Trolhatta 
canal  are  19  in  number,  the  oldest  of  which  was 
constructed  in  the  reign  of  Charles  XII.  by  the 
great  engineer  and  celebrated  founder  of  the  re- 
ligious sect,  Swedenborg. 

Christiania,  the  capital  of  Norway,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  100,000,  was  founded  by  Christian  IV. 
in  1624.  The  city  is  beautifully  situated  on  a 
fiord,  an  inlet  of  the  sea,  gemmed  with  a  num- 
ber of  small  islands,  and  closed  in  by  a  range  of 
hills  thickly  wooded  with  Norwegian  pine.  Al- 
though Nature  has  done  so  much  to  beautify  it, 
the  city  is  most  commonplace  and  unattractive. 
The  University  museum  contains  a  fair  collection 


68  A    TOUR 

of  paintings,  the  finest  of  which  is  Tiedeman's 
"  Haugiauer,"  or,  preaching  in  a  cottage,  much 
admired  in  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1855.  Here, 
also,  is  the  Viking  ship,  found  buried  near  the 
coast,  supposed  to  be  a  war  vessel  a  thousand 
years  old,  and  containing  the  bones  of  human 
beings  and  horses. 

The  Castle  of  Aggershuus,  on  an  eminence 
commanding  the  harbor,  was  built  during  the 
1 4th  century.  It  contains  at  present  the  regalia 
and  crown  jewels ;  and  is  noted  as  having  been 
the  place  of  confinement  of  the  famous  Hoiland, 
the  combined  Robin  Hood  and  Jack  Sheppard  of 
Norway.  This  man  was  distinguished  for  his 
generosity  and  kindness  towards  his  associates, 
and  his  devotion  to  the  fair  sex,  while  his  robberies 
were  entirely  confined  to  the  rich ;  bolts  and 
bars  were  of  no  avail  against  his  strength  and 
ingenuity. 

The  Parliament  House,  or  Diet,  and  the  City 
Palace,  are  among  the  few  prominent  buildings  of 
the  city. 

Oscar's  Hall,  a  summer  residence  of  the  King, 
five  miles  out  of  town,  is  a  showy  building  well 
located  on  a  neck  of  land,  and  commanding  beau- 
tiful views  of  water  and  landscape. 

Leaving  Christiania  by  rail,  we  skirted  a  num- 
ber of  fiords,  cascades  and  rapids,  the  mountain 
views  being  among  the  finest  in  Norway ;  then 
forty  miles  by  boat  on  the  Randsfiord,  the  most 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  69 

beautiful  of  Norwegian  lakes,  and  again  by  dili- 
gence to  Mustad. 

Mustad,  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  con- 
sists of  a  few  insignificant  houses,  and  serves  as  a 
way  station  for  travellers  visiting  the  remote  parts 
of  Norway.  The  inn  is  primitive  in  its  appear- 
ance and  domestic  arrangement.  Upon  the 
register  were  only  two  names  of  English-speaking 
people  inscribed  within  ten  years ;  and  on  a  table 
an  old  wooden-bound  family  Bible  of  mine  host 
bore  the  date  1580. 

After  spending  the  night  in  this  mountain  re- 
treat, we  continued  our  journey  to  Lake  Mjosen, 
which  is  over  fifty  miles  long,  and  two  thousand 
feet  deep.  Here  we  crossed  over  to  Hamor, 
prettily  situated  on  the  lake,  and  a  station  on  the 
line  of  railway  to  Trondhjem. 

Trondhjem,  on  a  fiord  bearing  the  same  name, 
at  the  terminus  of  the  railroad,  has  23,000  inhabi- 
tants, is  the  largest  of  the  northern  towns  of 
Europe,  and  has  the  same  latitude  as  that  of 
southern  Iceland.  It  was  founded  by  Olaf  Tryg- 
gvesson  in  994,  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Nor- 
way, and  here  the  kings  of  Norway  and  Sweden 
are  still  crowned.  The  city  has  suffered  much 
from  plague  and  conflagration.  The  streets  are 
wide,  well  paved  and  clean,  but  the  houses,  built 
of  stone  or  brick,  are  low  and  insignificant.  The 
cathedral,  where  the  kings  are  crowned,  is  of 
Norman  architecture,  and  was  erected  in  the  nth 


70  A    TOUR 

century.  On  its  high  altar  is  a  reliquary  which 
once  contained  the  remains  of  St.  Olaf,  a  former 
king,  who  destroyed  the  native  temples,  and  es- 
tablished the  Catholic  religion  with  fire  and 
sword.  A  well  of  water  still  to  be  seen  in  the 
church  is  said  to  have  sprung  from  the  spot  where 
he  was  buried ;  and  the  fact  of  his  remains  being 
found  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation  was  looked 
upon  as  a  miracle,  and  they  were  placed  in  a  silver 
reliquary  studded  with  precious  stones.  His 
shrine  became  a  favorite  place  of  pilgrimage  for 
the  devout  from  all  parts  of  Europe,  until  1541, 
when  the  church  was  plundered  by  the  Lutherans, 
and  the  remains  carried  off  by  the  Danes. 

The  Castle  of  Munkholm,  on  an  island  oppo- 
site the  city,  was  the  place  of  imprisonment  of 
Count  Greffenfeld,  the  Grand  Chancellor  of  Chris- 
tian IV.  of  Denmark;  and  the  stone  floor  of  the 
cell  is  worn  by  his  constant  pacing  to  and  fro 
during  his  twenty  years'  incarceration.  The  sad 
story  of  Count  Greffenfeld  gave  Victor  Hugo  the 
foundation  for  his  novel  Hans  d'Island. 

At  Hammerfest,the  most  northern  city  in  the 
world,  the  midnight  sun  is  visible  in  July,  its  re- 
flected light  extending  some  distance  southward, 
so  clearly  that  until  midnight  one  can  read  without 
difficulty. 

The  people  of  Norway  are  of  stunted  growth, 
of  pinched  visage,  and  of  a  fair  type,  the  result 
of  the  excessive  rigor  of  the  climate. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  /I 

The  peasant  men  wear  knee-breeches,  red 
shirts,  sugar-loaf  hats  and  fur-lined  coats;  while 
the  costumes  of  the  women  are  even  more  quaint 
and  gaudy.  Their  habits  are  plain  and  unassum- 
ing, and  their  honesty  and  politeness  proverbial. 
The  houses  in  the  country  are  roofed  with  earth, 
and  entered  from  the  second  story;  light  —  owing 
to  the  extreme  cold — being  admitted  only  through 
the  door.  The  cariole,  the  summer  mode  of 
conveyance,  is  a  peculiarly  constructed  vehicle; 
admitting  but  one  person  within  its  narrow  limits, 
who  must  needs  drive  in  an  uncomfortably  reclin- 
ing position,  while  an  attendant  clings,  as  best  he 
may,  to  the  rear. 

Stockholm,  the  capital  of  Sweden,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  174,000,  is  built  upon  nine  islands  in 
Lake  Malar  and  the  Baltic  sea,  and,  from  its  loca- 
tion in  the  midst  of  the  waters,  is  styled  the 
Venice  of  the  North.  Its  name  is  derived  from 
Stock(wood)  and  Holm(island).  The  city  contains 
many  squares  and  small  parks  in  which  are 
monuments  in  bronze  of  Charles  XII.  and  Charles 
XIII. ,  and  an  equestrian  statue  of  Adolphus  III. 
There  is  also  a  fine  bronze  group  of  two  combat- 
ants, bound  together  by  a  leathern  band  about  the 
waist,  while  the  struggle  between  them  with 
knives  is  thrilling  and  life-like,  and  symbolizes 
the  national  form  of  duel. 

The  Royal  Palace,  an  immense  building  of 
granite  and  brick,  commands  a  fine  position  on 


72  A   TOUR 

the  highest  point  of  the  centre  island.  The  ex- 
terior is  unprepossessing,  but  within  its  walls  are 
516  rooms  and  32  kitchens.  The  apartments  of 
the  king,  queen  and  queen  dowager  are  hand- 
somely appointed,  and  filled  with  works  of  art ; 
the  great  gallery,  the  banqueting  hall  and  the 
throne  room  are  spacious,  and  in  the  latter  is  the 
silver  throne,  a  present  to  Queen  Christina  from 
Magnus  Gabriel  de  la  Gardie. 

The  Museum  has  a  large  collection  of  statuary, 
antique  arms  and  armor ;  relics  and  antiquities  of 
a  succession  of  kings,  and  paintings  both  ancient 
and  modern.  Among  these  are  the  Victor's  Re- 
turn, by  Saloman ;  the  Religious  Fanatic,  by 
Tiedeman;  After  the  Duel;  and  a  portrait  of  King 
Eric  IV. 

The  Cathedral,  where  the  sovereigns  are  first 
crowned  —  for,  in  concession  to  the  national  pride 
of  the  two  kingdoms,  now  united  under  one  ruler, 
the  ceremony  of  coronation  is  repeated  in  Trondh- 
jem  —  contains  an  altar-piece  finely  carved  in 
ebony.  Here  are  preserved  the  spurs  and  helmet 
of  St.  Olaf  of  Norway,  taken  by  Eric  IV.  from  his 
tomb  in  the  Cathedral  of  Trondhjem. 

The  Riddarsholm  church  is  now  used  as  a 
mausoleum  for  the  royal  family,  and  a  receptacle 
for  trophies  of  the  battlefields  of  the  various 
epochs  of  the  history  of  Norway. 

The  Royal  Library  comprises  70,000  volumes, 
and  occupies  an  entire  building.  In  it  are  auto- 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  73 

graph  letters  of  Richelieu,  Voltaire,  Alexander  I. 
and  Napoleon;  a  Bible  dating  1521  with  marginal 
notes  by  Martin  Luther ;  and  a  curious  volume 
called  the  Devil's  Bible  ;  this  measures  several  feet 
in  length,  is  bound  in  wood,  and  is  written  on  the 
skins  of  300  asses. 

The  Zoological  Museum  has  the  finest  botani- 
cal, mineralogical  and  geological  collection  in  the 
world ;  and  was  founded  by  Linnaeus  and  other 
noted  Swedish  scientists.  Among  other  interest- 
ing objects  to  be  seen,  is  the  largest  specimen  of 
an  elephant's  skeleton,  and  here  also  is  a  meteoric 
stone  weighing  250  tons,  which  fell  in  the  north  of 
Sweden. 

The  Deer  Park,  with  its  lovely  drives,  villas, 
and  cafes  is  a  favorite  afternoon  resort.  In  its 
midst  is  the  Palace  of  Rosendal,  the  former  resi- 
dence of  Charles  XIV. — better  known  as  Berna- 
dotte,  one  of  Napoleon's  renowned  marshals. 

Upsala,  fifty  miles  from  Stockholm,  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  the  old-fashioned  cities 
of  Europe,  and  in  its  cathedral  are  buried  Gus- 
tavus  Vasa  and  Linnaeus.  Among  the  manu- 
scripts in  the  library  is  a  copy  of  the  four  Evan- 
gelists, written  in  letters  of  silver  on  parchment  of 
the  5th  century. 


74  -A   TOUR 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


ABO  :       HELSINGFORS  :      ST.    PETERSBURG  !       PETERHOF  I 

MOSCOW:    SEBASTOPOL:    WARSAW: 

THE  Russian  Empire  covers  over  one-half  the 
area  of  the  European  continent,  while  its  Asiatic 
possessions  are  three  times  the  extent  of  those  in 
Europe.  The  southern  portion  of  Russia  is  for 
the  most  part  a  level  plain,  green  in  spring, 
parched  in  summer,  and  shrouded  in  snow  in 
winter.  The  central  section  is,  to  a  large  extent, 
covered  with  timber,  and  is  decidedly  the  most 
productive,  while  the  northern  part  is  beyond  the 
limit  of  vegetation,  and  buried  in  snow  and  ice 
throughout  the  year.  The  natural  wealth  of 
Russia  is  enormous,  especially  in  mineral  produc- 
tions, her  mines  embracing  nearly  every  variety. 
Gold  and  silver  mines  are  productive,  and  those 
of  lapis  lazuli,  malachite,  and  jasper  are  the  rich- 
est in  the  world. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  75 

The  area  of  the  Russian  Empire  embraces 
8,352,940  square  miles,  and  contains  90,000,000 
people,  of  which  number 

55,000,000  profess  the  Russo- Greek  religion. 
1,000,000  are  Dissenters. 
3,000,000  Roman  Catholics. 
2,500,000  Protestants. 
2,000,000  Jews. 
250,000  Idolaters. 
50,000  Armenians. 

The  Empire  is  divided  into  96  governments  or 
territories,  viz.  : 

50  in  Russia,  having  70,000,000  inhabitants. 

12  in  the  Caucasus,      5,000,000 

10  in  Poland,       "         6,000,000 
8  in  Finland,     "          2,000,000         " 
8  in  Siberia,       "          4,000,000 
8  in  Central  Asia        3,000,000          " 


96  90,000,000 

The  Russian  navy  comprises  275  vessels,  and 
the  army,  on  a  peace  footing,  800,000  men. 

The  religion  of  Russia  exacts  observance  of 
its  forms  from  the  highest  official  to  the  lowest 
serf.  The  Emperor  is  the  head  of  the  Greek 
Church,  which  predominates,  and  all  army  and 
government  officials  are  required  to  embrace 
this  form  of  worship.  Great  wealth  is  concen- 


76  A   TOUR 

trated  in  the  Church,  and  images  being  forbidden 
pictures  are  substituted  set  in  gold,  and  studded 
with  precious  stones  of  such  great  value  that  a 
guard  is  kept  constantly  on  watch  to  protect 
them. 

The  lower  classes  are  poor,  ignorant  and 
superstitious ;  and  whether  in  church  or  on  the 
street,  are  continually  praying,  making  the  sign  of 
the  cross,  and  prostrating  themselves  on  the 
ground  before  one  or  other  of  the  innumerable 
shrines  to  be  found  everywhere. 

The  drosky,  the  summer  conveyance,  is  usually 
drawn  by  a  single  horse,  but  frequently  one 
sees  three  driven  abreast.  The  costume  of  the 
drivers  is  somewhat  similar  to  a  woman's  garb  — 
a  full  skirt,  gathered  in  to  the  waist  by  a  broad 
sash,  and  reaching  to  the  ankle,  allowing  the 
heavy  boots  to  be  seen  below  it,  and  a  tall,  oddly- 
shaped  hat  completes  this  singular  and  not  un- 
picturesque  costume. 

Abo,  the  former  capital  of  Finland,  is  on  an 
inlet  three  miles  from  the  gulf,  and  has  23,000 
inhabitants.  This  is  the  first  point  reached  by 
steamer  on  crossing  the  Baltic  from  Stockholm. 
The  cathedral,  the  first  Christian  temple  in  the 
Northern  land,  contains  the  novel  and  hideous 
spectacle  of  open  coffins,  displaying  the  embalmed 
corpses  within. 

Helsingfors,  the  present  capital  of  Finland, 
with  34,000  inhabitants,  has  a  strongly-fortified 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  77 

harbor,  protected  by  the  fortress  of  Sveaborg, 
called  the  Gibraltar  of  the  North,  which  in  1855 
was  unsuccessfully  attacked  by  the  combined 
fleets  of  France  and  Great  Britain.  The  Greek 
church,  with  a  large  gilt  dome,  surrounded  by 
thirteen  smaller  ones,  is  conspicuous  for  some 
distance. 

St.  Petersburg,  the  Capital  of  Russia,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Neva,  was  founded  by  Peter  the 
Great  in  1703,  and  contains  668,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  built  on  several  islands  in  the  river  marshes. 
Fifty  thousand  peasants  were  employed  for  years 
driving  piles  for  a  foundation,  the  Czar  himself 
superintending  the  operations,  and  all  convey- 
ances approaching  the  city  by  land  or  sea  were 
required  to  bring  a  certain  number  of  stones. 
The  river  Neva,  which  flows  throughout  the  city, 
is  crossed  by  several  bridges,  some  of  which  are 
built  of  boats.  The  streets  are  very  wide  and 
clean,  and  are  paved  with  small  stones ;  the 
houses  are  of  brick,  covered  with  plaster,  and 
painted  yellow,  and  the  roofs  red  or  green. 

The  finest  monuments  which  adorn  the  city  are 
those  of  an  equestrian  statue  of  Peter  the  Great; 
Catherine  II.  surrounded  by  her  favorites;  Nicho- 
las I.  on  horseback,  with  bronze  bas-reliefs  at  the 
base,  and  that  erected  to  Alexander  I — a  highly- 
polished  granite  shaft,  surmounted  by  the  figure 
of  an  angel,  the  whole  150  feet  in  height.  The 
shaft  was  cut  from  the  quarries  of  Finland,  and  is 


78  A   TOUR 

said  to  be  the  largest  monolith  in  the  world.  Two 
triumphal  arches  have  been  erected  in  commemo- 
ration of  Russia's  victorious  arms  —  the  Moscow 
Gate,  raised  in  honor  of  the  army  of  1826 — 1831, 
is  on  the  old  road  to  Moscow  ;  and  the  Narva 
Gate,  opposite  the  palace,  surmounted  by  an 
image  of  Victory  in  a  triumphal  car  drawn  by  six 
horses,  commemorates  the  return  of  the  Russian 
troops  in  1815. 

The  cottage  of  Peter  the  Great,  the  first  house 
built  in  the  city,  was  occupied  by  the  Emperor 
while  superintending  the  building  of  St.  Peters- 
burg. It  is  protected  from  destruction  by  an 
outer  casing,  and  contains  three  rooms,  one  of 
which  is  now  used  as  a  shrine  where  devotees 
come  to  pay  their  devotions. 

In  the  Arsenal  are  large  collections  of  arms  and 
standards  captured  from  nearly  every  nation  in 
the  world,  comprising  the  earliest  war  implements 
from  guns  made  of  rope,  leather  and  wood,  down 
to  the  largest  and  most  lately  improved  cannon. 
Here  are  also  displayed  the  uniforms  and  trap- 
pings of  Peter  the  Great,  Catherine  II.  and  Alex- 
ander I.  The  cannon  foundry  adjoining  the 
arsenal  well  repays  a  visit;  for  here  are  to  be 
seen  hundreds  of  the  largest  cannons  cast. 

St.  Isaac's  Cathedral,  whose  foundation  alone, 
owing  to  the  marshy  nature  of  the  soil,  cost  over 
a  million  dollars,  is  of  vast  dimensions  and  of  the 
most  costly  material.  The  centre  dome,  sur- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  79 

rounded  by  four  smaller  ones,  overlaid  with  gold, 
and  ornamented  with  colossal  bronze  figures,  is 
supported  by  eighty  pillars  of  polished  porphyry 
sixty  feet  in  height,  resting  on  pavement  of  mar- 
ble and  granite.  The  interior  is  gorgeous  beyond 
conception  ;  steps  of  porphyry,  floors  of  variegated 
marble,  pillars  of  lapis  lazuli,  malachite  and  jasper, 
walls  and  altars  adorned  with  mosaics  and  paint- 
ings of  saints,  emperors  and  warriors,  set  in  gold 
and  precious  stones.  The  priests  dress  in  flowing 
robes,  wear  their  hair  and  beards  long,  and  chant 
the  service  loudly  and  with  much  ostentation; 
while  the  worshippers  prostrate  themselves  at  full 
length  on  the  marble  floor,  or  move  about,  kissing 
repeatedly  the  pictures  of  their  saints. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  sit- 
uated inside  the  citadel,  has  by  far  the  most  gaudy 
interior  of  any  church  in  the  city,  being  a  mass  of 
gilt  and  glitter  from  floor  to  dome.  Here  are  in- 
terred Peter  the  Great,  and  all  the  succeeding 
sovereigns  of  Russia  down  to  the  present  time, 
with  the  exception  of  Peter  II.,  who  was  buried  in 
Moscow.  The  tombs  are  uniformly  of  plain,  white 
marble,  three  feet  in  elevation,  the  surface  of  the 
slab  bearing  only  the  Russian  eagle  in  gold,  and 
an  inscription  on  the  end  giving,  according  to  the 
custom  of  the  country,  the  height  and  breadth  of 
the  occupant  at  birth.  The  tomb  of  the  late 
Alexander  II.  is  guarded  by  day  and  night,  and  a 
light  kept  continually  burning  above  it. 


80  A    TOUR 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Petersburg,  dedicated  to 
Our  Lady  of  Kazan,  is  on  the  Nevskoi  Prospekt, 
and  was  built  after  the  model  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome. 
In  front  of  the  cathedral  are  the  statues  of  Prince 
de  Smolenskoi  and  Barclay  de  Tolly,  and  within  is 
the  painting  representing  Our  Lady  of  Kazan,  set 
with  jewels  of  fabulous  value,  and  a  number  of 
flags  and  keys  of  walled  cities  captured  in  battle. 

The  Monastery  of  St.  Alexander  Nevskoi, 
built  by  Peter  the  Great  for  the  remains  of  the 
Grand  Duke  Alexander,  contains  his  tomb,  which 
is  of  solid  silver  surmounted  by  angels.  The 
bones  of  this  saint,  after  their  removal  to  their  new 
place  of  sepulture  returned  again  to  the  Volga, 
until  Peter  threatened  the  monks  with  punishment 
if  they  did  not  prevent  the  saint  from  continuing 
his  midnight  rambles.  At  this  church  may  be 
heard  the  finest  music  in  the  city,  chanted  by  40 
monks. 

A  shrine  now  marks  the  spot  where  the  late 
Emperor  Alexander  was  killed  ;  and  preparations 
are  being  made  to  erect  a  church  on  the  same  site 
in  commemoration  of  that  event. 

The  Winter  Palace,  though  of  great  propor- 
tions, is  of  an  unprepossessing  exterior,  being  of 
brick  with  an  outer  coating  of  plaster  painted  yel- 
low, and  surrounded  by  neither  trees  nor  gardens. 
It  was  formerly  the  winter  residence  of  the  Em- 
peror and  his  court,  accommodating  6,000  persons 
constituting  his  household.  At  present  its  finest 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  8 1 

apartments  are  closed,  in  accordance  with  a  Rus- 
sian custom  commemorative  of  the  decease  of  a 
former  occupant.  The  crown  jewels,  kept  here, 
are  among  the  most  magnificent  in  all  Europe ; 
one  —  the  Orloff  diamond,  next  to  the  largest  in 
the  world  —  weighing  194^  carats ;  this  gem  was 
stolen  from  the  eye-socket  of  an  idol  in  the  Tem- 
ple of  Seringham,  India,  was  afterwards  bought  by 
Count  Orloff,  and  presented  by  him  to  Cath- 
erine II. 

The  Hermitage  connected  with  the  Winter 
Palace  was  built  in  1765  by  Catherine  II.,  for  the 
purpose  of  retirement  from  the  cares  of  affairs  of 
state.  Its  halls  and  marble  stairway  are  of  vast 
proportions,  supported  by  pillars  of  Finland  gran- 
ite. In  the  picture  gallery  are  paintings  of  cele- 
brated artists ;  the  Last  Days  of  Pompeii,  by 
Brulow,  and  the  Brazen  Serpent,  by  Bruni,  being 
fine  specimens  of  Russian  art.  The  gallery  of 
Peter  the  Great  contains  that  sovereign's  work- 
ing tools,  and  his  iron  cane  weighing  10  pounds, 
besides  other  articles  used  by  him,  while  through- 
out the  galleries,  in  extravagant  profusion  are 
tables  and  mantels  of  malachite,  jasper  and  lapis 
lazuli. 

The  Taurida  Palace,  now  in  disuse  and  going 
fast  to  decay,  was  the  scene  of  the  gorgeous  en- 
tertainment given  by  Count  Potemkin  to  his 
royal  mistress  Catherine  II.,  a  description  of  which 
exceeds  in  splendor  the  most  extravagant  con- 

6 


82  A    TOUR 

ceptions  in  the  Arabian  Nights.  The  ball-room 
on  this  occasion  was  dazzling  in  the  brilliancy  of 
20,000  lights,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  magnificent 
chandeliers  were  stationed,  in  mid-air,  the  musi- 
cians who  contributed  melodious  strains  to  this 
scene  of  enchantment. 

The  Palace  of  Peterhof,  12  miles  from  the 
city,  has  been  occupied  by  successive  sovereigns 
since  the  reign  of  Peter  the  Great,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  present  emperor,  Alexander  III., 
who  prefers  to  occupy  a  smaller  palace  near  by. 
The  grounds  surrounding  Peterhof  are  extensive 
and  handsome,  and  rich  in  gilded  statues  and 
fountains  ;  of  these  the  largest  is  one  called  Sam- 
son, which  throws  a  jet  80  feet  high,  while  envi- 
roning this  are  smaller  fountains,  and  cataracts 
extending  a  distance  of  500  yards.  The  interior 
of  the  palace  is  filled  with  innumerable  objects  of 
virtu  —  tapestries,  and  tazzas  of  marble,  porcelain, 
and  malachite.  One  room  contains  386  portraits, 
representing  a  peasant  girl  of  each  Russian 
province,  an  interesting  and  beautiful  collection. 
At  Montplaisir,  a  small  palace  in  these  demesnes, 
is  the  bed  which  was  formerly  occupied  by  Peter 
the  Great,  and  in  which  he  died ;  and  in  the  Her- 
mitage, also  attached  to  the  palace,  is  a  curious 
mechanical  arrangement,  by  means  of  which  a 
dinner-table  can  be  removed,  through  a  trap, 
after  each  course,  and  returned  with  its  appoint- 
ments renewed. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  83 

Moscow,  on  the  banks  of  the  Moskva  river, 
was  founded  in  1147,  and  contains  600,000  in- 
habitants. It  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the 
entire  Russian  empire,  and  is  consequently  more 
cosmopolitan  than  other  cities  of  Russia.  The 
streets  are  long,  and,  as  a  rule,  wide,  except  in 
the  older  portions  of  the  city,  where  they  are  nar- 
row, and  more  available  to  pedestrians.  The 
houses  are  fancifully  ornamented,  and  painted  in  a 
variety  of  bright  colors.  The  churches  and  public 
buildings  are  also  of  many  hues,  and  with  their 
numerous  gold  and  silver  domes  and  spires  spark- 
ling in  the  sunlight,  offer  a  scene  both  quaint  and 
dazzling.  The  men  wear  small  caps,  long  coats 
and  high  top-boots,  and  the  women  are  partial  to 
gay  colors.  The  horses,  which  are  mostly  black, 
and  of  Arabian  and  Russian  breed,  are  models  of 
equine  beauty,  and  travel  with  the  rapidity  of 
the  wind. 

The  Kremlin,  or  citadel,  is  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  and  the  wall  in  which  it  is  inclosed  measures 
two  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  entered  by  five 
gates,  the  most  important  of  these  being  the  Re- 
deemer's Gate,  over  which  hangs  a  picture  of  the 
Saviour,  an  object  of  great  reverence  to  every 
Russian,  from  the  Emperor  to  the  lowest  peasant, 
none  of  whom  would  presume  to  pass  under  it 
without  removing  his  hat.  Almost  to  this  very 
gate  the  victorious  Tartars  advanced,  time  and 
again,  but  no  further.  The  French  tried  to  re- 


84  A   TOUR 

move  the  picture,  but  every  ladder  with  which 
they  attempted  to  scale  the  gate  broke  and  fell 
with  the  bold  invaders.  They  next  attempted  to 
demolish  it  with  ball,  but  the  cannon  burst,  and 
they  finally  set  fire  to  the  walls,  but  the  flames 
miraculously  recoiled  before  the  sacred  emblem. 
The  Kremlin  is  crowded  with  palaces,  churches, 
monasteries,  arsenals  and  museums,  in  which  the 
Tartar  style  of  architecture  predominates.  This 
is  the  only  part  of  Moscow  which  escaped  the  con- 
flagration of  1812,  when  the  Russians  set  fire  to 
their  capital  to  prevent  its  falling  into  the  hands 
of  Napoleon.  At  the  St.  Nicholas  Gate,  where 
the  French  powder-train  exploded,  is  now  a 
shrine  where  each  Czar,  before  entering  the  city, 
must  first  offer  his  devotions. 

The  Emperor's  Palace  in  the  Kremlin  is  built 
on  the  site  of  an  ancient  Tartar  palace,  and  has  a 
magnificent  interior.  The  Red  Staircase,  which  is 
only  used  by  the  Emperor  and  Empress  after 
their  coronation  in  the  cathedral,  but  which  Napo- 
leon and  his  marshals  ascended  after  the  fall  of 
Moscow,  leads  to  the  banqueting  room,  where 
the  newly-crowned  Emperor  sits  enthroned,  wear- 
ing for  the  first  time  all  the  imperial  insignia.  In' 
St.  Andrew's  Hall,  on  a  raised  dais,  stands  the 
magnificent  throne  of  the  present  empire ;  and  in 
the  hall  of  the  Order  of  St.  George  the  walls  are 
adorned  with  the  names  of  the  members  in  letters 
of  gold. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  85 

The  Treasury  occupies  a  wing  of  the  palace, 
and  contains  relics  of  great  value;  the  large  bell 
once  used  to  warn  the  citizens  of  impending  danger, 
weapons  and  trophies,  gifts  from  foreign  nations, 
and  cases  of  table  service  of  gold  and  silver,  once 
the  property  of  former  czars.  Here,  also,  are  the 
chair  on  which  Charles  XII.  was  carried  at  the 
battle  of  Poltawa,  the  baldachino,  under  which 
the  emperor  and  empress  walk  at  their  coronation, 
the  throne  of  Poland,  brought  from  Warsaw  in 
1833,  the  ivory  throne  of  Ivan  III.,  who  first  took 
the  title  of  Caesar  or  Czar  of  Russia,  the  throne  of 
Alexis,  brought  from  Persia,  in  1610,  studded  with 
countless  diamonds,  rubies,  pearls  and  turquoises, 
the  double  throne  of  John  and  Peter,  with  a  recess 
in  its  rear,  in  which  their  mother,  concealed  behind 
a  curtain,  dictated  to  them  their  addresses  to  the 
people,  and  those  of  the  Empress  Elizabeth,  Paul 
I.  and  Michael  Romanoff,  each  sovereign  of  Rus- 
sia having,  according  to  custom,  his  own  individ- 
ual throne  and  crown.  The  most  valuable  of  these 
latter  is  that  of  Catherine  I.,  containing  2,536  dia- 
monds, and  an  immense  ruby  bought  at  Pekin,  by 
order  of  Peter  the  Great ;  and  those  of  John, 
Alexis,  Michael,  and  the  King  of  Kazan.  Here, 
also,  are  the  coronation  robes  of  Nicholas  L,  Paul, 
Alexander  L,  and  Alexander  II.  ;  of  Anna  and 
Catherine  II.  A  glass  case  contains  the  Order  of 
the  Garter,  presented  by  Elizabeth  to  John  the 
Terrible,  and  the  iron  cane  of  the  latter,  with 


86  A   TOUR 

which  he  killed  his  son.  Among  the  many  state 
carriages  is  one  which  once  belonged  to  the  Em- 
press Elizabeth,  arranged  with  every  convenience 
for  her  habitation  on  the  journey  from  St.  Peters- 
burg to  Moscow. 

The  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption,  within  the 
Kremlin,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the 
Christian  churches  of  Russia.  Here  all  the  em- 
perors are  crowned,  and  a  wooden  throne  is  still 
extant  dating  988  A.  D.,  in  which  rulers  of  Russia, 
before  the  reign  of  Peter  the  Great,  stood  during 
divine  service.  Among  the  many  relics  displayed 
are  a  nail  from  the  True  Cross,  a  robe  of  the 
Saviour  and  a  remnant  of  the  dress  of  the  Virgin  ; 
also  an  immense  Bible  presented  to  the  cathedral 
by  the  mother  of  Peter  the  Great,  which  is  en- 
crusted with  emeralds  and  rubies. 

The  Cathedral  of  the  Archangel  Michael,  with 
its  nine  gilded  domes,  was  built  in  1332  to  com- 
memorate Russia's  deliverance  from  a  terrible 
famine,  and  is  noted  as  being  the  last  resting-place 
of  all  the  sovereigns  previous  to  Peter  the  Great. 
In  the  vaults  below  are  the  remains  of  the  rulers 
of  the  Rurick  and  Romanoff  dynasties,  and  among 
others  are  the  tombs  of  John  the  Terrible  and  his 
son,  whom  he  killed  by  a  blow  from  his  iron  staff. 
A  drop  of  the  blood  of  John  the  Baptist,  seen 
through  glass,  is  an  object  of  great  veneration  at 
one  of  the  shrines. 

The  Cathedral  of  the  Annunciation,  where  the 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  8/ 

Czars  formerly  received  the  sacraments  of  baptism 
and  marriage,  is  most  peculiarly  frescoed,  and  the 
floor  is  paved  with  blocks  of  agate  —  a  gift  from 
the  Shah  of  Persia. 

The  House  of  the  Holy  Synod  is  celebrated  as 
being  the  place  where  the  myrrh  or  holy  oil  with 
which  the  children  of  Russia  are  baptized,  is  made 
and  preserved.  This  oil — of  which  some  four  gal- 
lons are  made  every  three  years — is  said  to  be 
sanctified  by  the  addition  of  a  few  drops  of  the 
same  oil  with  which  Mary  Magdalene  anointed  the 
feet  of  the  Saviour :  it  is  made  from  the  choicest 
olives  mixed  with  some  sixty-seven  different  in- 
gredients ;  the  vessels  in  which  this  oil  is  prepared 
being  of  solid  gold  and  silver.  In  the  ceremony  of 
baptism  the  priest  uses  a  small  camel's-hair  brush 
with  which,  after  dipping  it  in  the  oil,  he  makes  the 
sign  of  the  cross  over  the  child's  eyes,  ears,  mouth, 
hands  and  feet,  that  it  may  see,  hear,  speak  and 
do  no  evil.  The  Synod  also  contains  the  church 
treasure,  and  the  wardrobe  of  the  patriarchs,  some 
of  which  robes  are  elaborately  embroidered  in 
large  pearls,  and  weighing  as  much  as  sixty 
pounds  each. 

The  Ivan  Veliki  Tower  —  the  lower  part  of 
which  is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  John  of  the 
Ladder  —  is  325  feet  high,  and  contains  over  40 
magnificent  bells.  The  Czar  Rolokol  —  or  king  of 
bells  —  stands  on  a  granite  pedestal  at  the  base  of 
the  tower.  It  was  cast  in  1730,  during  the  reign 


88  A   TOUR 

of  the  Empress  Anna ;  is  2 1  feet  high,  67  feet  in 
circumference,  weighs  400,000  pounds,  and  is  esti- 
mated to  be  worth  $200,000.  During  a  fire  which 
once  consumed  the  tower,  this  bell  fell  from  its 
position,  breaking  a  small  section  from  its  side, 
and  buried  itself  in  the  ground,  where  it  remained 
under  the  accumulation  of  soil  for  100  years. 

The  arsenal  contains  a  sufficient  number  of 
weapons  to  arm  150,000  men.  Along  the  outer 
walls  are  ranged  875  cannons  captured  from  other 
nations;  375  pieces  being  those  abandoned  by 
Napoleon  in  his  disastrous  retreat  of  1812. 

Just  outside  the  walls  of  the  Kremlin  stands 
the  Church  of  St.  Basil,  differing  in  style  and 
architecture  from  any  other  church  in  Moscow.  It 
has  no  less  than  twenty  domes  and  towers,  each 
differing  from  the  other  in  form  and  dimension, 
and  all  gilded  and  painted  in  every  possible  variety 
of  color  and  design.  It  was  erected  by  order  of 
John  the  Terrible,  who  was  so  pleased  with  the 
result  that  he  caused  the  eyes  of  the  architect  to 
be  put  out,  that  he  might  not  duplicate  it.  In  the 
basement  are  preserved  the  iron  chains,  belts  and 
crosses  worn  by  St.  Basil  for  penance. 

The  Temple  of  the  Saviour  is  a  modern  struc- 
ture erected  to  commemorate  the  defeat  of  the 
French,  and  is  probably  the  finest  church  in  all 
Russia.  It  is  of  immense  proportions,  surmounted 
by  five  gilded  domes,  the  ceilings  and  walls  of  the 
interior  are  exquisitely  frescoed,  the  pillars  are  of 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  89 

jasper,  and  the  floor  of  highly-polished  Labrador 
porphyry  and  marble  ;  the  total  cost  of  this  edifice 
having  been  19,000,000  roubles,  or  $14,000,000. 

The  Public  Museum  has  a  library  of  16,000 
volumes,  and  a  fair  collection  of  paintings.  Sev- 
eral rooms  are  devoted  to  life-size  wax-figures, 
representing  the  different  races  of  the  Russian 
empire,  illustrating  their  dress,  occupations  and 
form  of  worship. 

The  Foundling  Asylum,  founded  by  Catherine 
II.,  is  a  Government  institution,  so  extensive  that 
it  will  readily  accommodate  over  a  thousand 
waifs  under  its  roof.  Here  all  infants  are  received 
without  question,  and  admirably  cared  for  up  to 
a  certain  age,  when  they  are  provided  with  homes 
in  the  country. 

Sparrow  Hill,  reached  by  a  favorite  drive  of 
eight  miles  from  the  city,  commands  a  splendid 
view  of  Moscow.  It  was  from  this  point  Napoleon 
Bonaparte  viewed  the  goal  of  his  famous  campaign, 
and  the  road  over  which  he  marched  is  still  called 
the  Road  of  the  Grand  Army. 

In  Moscow,  May  22nd,  1883,  or  May  loth  of 
Greco-Russian  calendar,  we  witnessed  the  coro- 
nation ceremonies  of  the  Czar,  Alexander  III., 
and  his  Czarina  Maria.  The  city  donned  her 
gayest  holiday  attire  for  this  occasion  ;  buildings, 
both  public  and  private,  were  hung  with  flags, 
festoons  of  gay-colored  bunting  and  flowers ; 
arches  covered  with  garlands  of  evergreens,  and 


90  -  A    TOUR 

decorated  with  paintings  and  monograms  of 
the  imperial  consorts  spanned  the  streets  at 
frequent  intervals.  On  the  day  previous  to  the 
ceremonies,  the  Emperor  and  Empress,  accompa- 
nied by  the  royal  family,  and  escorted  by  75,000 
troops  from  St.  Petersburg,  arrived  in  Moscow,  re- 
maining in  a  palace  outside  the  city,  preparatory 
to  entering  it  in  the  pomp  and  magnificence  of 
the  occasion. 

At  9  A.  M.  on  the  morning  of  the  grand 
entree,  the  streets  on  the  line  of  procession  were 
required  to  be  vacated  by  all  save  those  taking 
part  in  the  ceremonies,  and  occupants  of  houses 
compelled  to  submit  their  names  to  the  police 
department. 

Owing  to  the  wide-spread  sense  of  insecurity 
inspired  by  the  actions  of  the  nihilists,  to  whose 
animosity  the  Emperor's  father  had  but  recently 
fallen  victim,  and  whose  mysteriously-conveyed 
threats  filled  his  successor's  heart  with  dread,  the 
utmost  precautions  against  a  similar  catastrophe 
were  taken. 

A  hundred  thousand  troops  lined  either  side 
of  the  streets  along  the  line  of  procession,  and 
behind  them  stood  a  secret  organization,  in  plain 
citizen's  dress,  sworn  to  protect  with  their  lives 
the  person  of  the  Emperor.  Sentinels  were  sta- 
tioned on  every  house-top,  in  every  cellar,  and  at 
the  front  and  rear  doors  of  every  house.  Officers, 
mounted  on  handsomely -caparisoned  horses, 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  91 

patrolled  the  streets  to  ensure  further  security 
against  the  possibility  of  surprise.  At  precisely 
I  P.  M.  cannons  were  fired,  and  bells  were  rung 
throughout  the  city,  to  announce  that  the  royal 
procession  had  started,  when  both  soldier  and 
citizen  removed  his  hat,  and  reverently  crossed 
himself.  The  order  of  procession  was  as  follows  : 

Chief  of  police  and  gens  d'armes  mounted. 

Body-guard  .... 

Imperial  horse-guards  . 

Asiatic  deputies   .... 

Circassian  deputies 

Russian  nobles     .... 

Palace  officials      . 

The  Emperor's  hunters 

Assistant  masters  of  ceremonies    . 

Grand  master  of  ceremonies. 

Imperial   grooms  and  Nubian  attendants  on  foot. 

High  palace-officials  in  state  carriages. 

Court  marshals  "       " 

Imperial  counsel         "       "          " 

Russian  nobles 

Kings  and  princes  in  golden  state  carriages. 

Imperial  guard  mounted. 

Czar  Alexander  III.,  mounted  on  a  white  horse, 

and  dressed  in  the  full  uniform  of  a  general. 
The  Crown  Prince  and  the  Princes,  his  brothers, 

on  black  horses. 
The  Grand  Dukes,  on  bay  horses. 


92  A   TOUR 

Ministers  of   State    and   War;    mounted. 

Foreign  princes  and  suites,  in  state  carriages. 

The  Empress  Maria  and  young  Princess,  in  a 
golden  chariot,  drawn  by  eight  white  horses, 
caparisoned  with  gilded  harness  and  nodding 
ostrich  plumes,  attended  by  grooms  and  postil- 
ions in  rich  liveries. 

Relatives  of  the  Empress,  in  golden  state  car- 
riages, drawn  by  six  black  horses  each. 

Relatives  of  the  Emperor,  in  golden  state  car- 
riages, drawn  by  six  black  horses  each. 

Other  members  of  the  Imperial  Family,  in  gold 
and  silver  state  carriages. 

Empress'  suite  in  carriages. 

Imperial  troops  mounted. 

Imperial  dragoons. 

Russian  infantry. 

At  each  of  the  old  city  gates  salutes  were 
fired,  denoting  the  progress  of  the  procession ;  and 
as  the  Emperor  appeared  in  sight,  loud  and  con- 
tinuous acclamations  arose  from  the  multitude, 
resounding  along  the  entire  route  of  procession. 
As  the  Emperor  passed  the  various  churches  and 
other  religious  institutions,  priests  appeared,  bear- 
ing crucifixes,  to  bless  him  on  his  way.  Arriving 
at  the  St.  Nicholas  gate  the  Emperor  and  Em- 
press, in  accordance  with  an  old  Russian  custom, 
descended  to  offer  a  prayer  and  receive  the  bless- 
ing of  the  priest  at  the  shrine  of  the  Iberian  Mother 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  93 

of  God,  before  entering  the  Kremlin  through  the 
Redeemer's  gate.  Here  a  salute  of  101  cannon 
was  fired,  and  as  the  procession  filed  through  every 
man,  from  the  Emperor  to  the  humblest  of  his 
train,  reverently  uncovered.  Proceeding  to  the 
cathedral,  prayer  and  thanksgiving  were  offered, 
and  from  here  they  finally  entered  the  palace  of 
the  Kremlin. 

Next  day  occurred  the  consecration  of  the  im- 
perial standard.  During  the  three  days  following, 
while  the  Emperor  fasted  —  taking  only  brown 
bread  and  tea  —  heralds,  accompanied  by  squad- 
rons of  cuirassiers,  chevaliers  and  life-guards, 
regimental  bands,  and  several  masters  of  corona- 
tion ceremonies  in  showy  and  picturesque  attire, 
proclaimed  the  approaching  coronations  at  the 
chief  barriers  and  gates,  and  public  places  of  the 
city ;  and  after  the  herald's  blast  of  trumpets,  the 
multitude  uncovered,  and  listened  to  the  following 
proclamation  read  aloud  by  the  Secretary  of  the 
Senate : 

"  Our  most  august,  most  high,  and  most 
mighty  sovereign,  Emperor  Alexander  Alexan- 
drovitch,  having  ascended  the  hereditary  throne 
of  the  Empire  of  all  the  Russias  and  of  the  King- 
dom of  Poland,  and  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of 
Finland,  which  are  inseparable  from  it,  has  been 
pleased  to  ordain,  in  imitation  of  his  predecessors 
and  glorious  ancestors,  that  the  sacred  solemnity 
of  the  coronation  and  consecration  of  his  Imperial 


94  A   TOUR 

Majesty,  which  his  Majesty  wills  that  his  august 
Consort,  the  Empress  Maria  Feodorovna  shall 
share,  do,  with  the  aid  of  the  Almighty,  take 
place  on  the  I5th  (27th)  of  May,  1883.  By  the 
present  proclamation,  therefore,  this  solemn  act  is 
announced  to  all  the  faithful  subjects  of  his  Ma- 
jesty, to  the  end  that  on  this  auspicious  day  they 
may  send  up  to  the  King  of  Kings  their  most  fer- 
vent prayers,  and  implore  the  Almighty  One  to 
extend  the  favor  of  His  blessing  to  the  reign  of 
his  Majesty ;  to  the  maintenance  of  peace  and 
tranquillity  to  the  very  great  glory  of  His  Holy 
Name,  and  to  the  unchanging  weal  of  the  empire." 
May  1 5th  (27th)  the  coronation  of  the  Czar 
took  place  in  the  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption, 
which  was  filled  to  overflowing  with  the  royal 
family,  foreign  ministers  and  distinguished  guests. 
Out  of  the  fourteen  social  grades  of  Russia,  only 
the  two  highest  were  admitted  within  the  limits 
of  the  cathedral.  At  I  o'clock  the  Emperor  and 
Empress  left  the  palace,  and  entering  the  cathe- 
dral ascended  their  thrones,  Alexander  occu- 
pying the  ivory  throne  of  Alexis  Feodorovitch; 
and  Maria  the  silver  and  jewel-studded  one  of 
Alexis  Michaelovitch.  After  divine  services  and 
prayers  offered  up  by  the  metropolitans  of  Mos- 
cow, Kief,  and  Novgorod,  high-priests  of  the 
Greek  Church,  and  the  Emperor  had  professed  the 
orthodox  Catholic  faith,  they  invested  him  with 
the  coronation  robe  of  ermine,  saying :  "  Cover 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  95 

and  protect  thy  people,  as  this  robe  covers  and 
protects  thee;"  to  which  the  Emperor  made 
answer,  "  I  will."  Then  taking  the  crown  from 
the  priests'  hands,  he  placed  it  upon  his  own 
head,  and  assumed  the  sceptre  and  orb.  The 
Empress  then  knelt  before  the  Emperor,  who  first 
touched  her  forehead  with  his  diadem,  and  then 
placed  a  smaller  crown  upon  her  head,  after  which 
they  both  received  the  Holy  Sacrament.  The  cere- 
mony concluded,  the  imperial  pair,  wearing  their 
crowns  and  coronation  robes,  and  preceded  by  the 
priests,  walked  from  the  church  to  the  palace 
under  a  magnificent  baldachino,  or  canopy  of  silk 
and  gold,  surmounted  by  ostrich  feathers  of  white, 
black  and  yellow.  This  was  borne  by  thirty-two 
generals  of  the  highest  rank,  guarded  on  either 
side  by  noblemen,  and  followed  by  the  royal 
household.  At  the  palace  the  Emperor  and  Em- 
press received  deputations  from  all  parts  of  their 
dominions,  all  of  whom,  agreeably  to  custom, 
brought  and  presented,  with  many  costly  gifts, 
offerings  of  salt  and  brown  bread  ;  a  curious  gift 
being  a  bottle  of  fermented  mare's  milk,  presented 
by  one  of  the  Kirghiz  from  the  Steppes.  At  night 
the  entire  city  was  illuminated  by  a  dazzling 
glitter  of  10,000,000  colored  lights  in  every  con- 
ceivable form  and  device,  palaces,  churches,  tow- 
ers, walls  and  gates  outlined  with  innumerable 
lights  —  a  dazzling  scene  of  indescribable  magnif- 
icence. 


96  A   TOUR 

The  two  weeks  following  were  devoted  to 
receptions  and  balls,  while  national  fetes  and 
amusements  of  all  kinds  were  provided  on  a  large 
scale  for  the  lower  classes. 

Sebastopol,  on  the  Crimean  Peninsula,  has  to- 
day a  population  of  only  11,000,  but  its  inhabi- 
tants numbered  25,000  previous  to  the  Crimean 
war.  It  is  surrounded,  on  every  side,  by  strong 
fortifications,  now  abandoned  according  to  treaty, 
but  doing  efficient  service  during  the  war  of  1853- 
55,  when  Russia  defended  herself  against  the 
combined  arms  of  England,  France,  Turkey, 
and  Italy.  Sebastopol  presents  a  picturesque 
appearance,  both  on  account  of  its  situation 
and  the  numerous  ruins  resulting  from  the  war, 
whole  streets  showing  traces  of  the  heavy  cannon- 
ading, not  a  house  being  left  habitable  after  the 
bombardment  of  eighteen  months.  On  one  side 
of  the  town  is  Malakoff,  an  eminence  taken  and 
re-taken  repeatedly  by  the  French  and  Russians, 
where  so  many  thousands  perished ;  beyond  it  is 
the  Redan  ;  two  miles  away  Inkerman,  on  the 
road  to  Moscow ;  and  ten  miles  to  the  east,  Bala- 
klava,  a  small  village,  mostly  inhabited  by  Tar- 
tars. In  every  direction,  for  several  miles,  are  to 
be  seen  breastworks  and  fortifications,  while  the 
cemeteries  contain  the  bodies  of  some  500,000  of 
those  killed  in  battle. 

Warsaw,  the  former  capital  of  Poland,  situated 
on  the  Vistula,  has  337,000  inhabitants,  of  which 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  97 

number  40,000  are  Jews.  Having  ceased  to  be  a 
place  of  royal  residence  in  1831,  its  palaces  are 
now  converted  into  public  offices  and  barracks. 
Of  its  churches,  90  are  Roman  Catholic,  the  re- 
maining 10  being  divided  among  the  Protestant, 
Greek,  Mohammedan  and  Jewish  persuasions.  The 
citadel  is  strongly  fortified,  and  in  its  underground 
cells  are  kept  political  prisoners  and  nihilists, 
25,000  soldiers  being  constantly  on  watch  to  pre- 
vent insurrections,  and  protect  the  Russian  fron- 
tier. Among  the  statues  which  adorn  the  streets 
of  the  city  is  one  of  the  astronomer  Copernicus, 
who  was  a  native  of  Warsaw,  one  of  Sigismund 
III.,  in  the  palace  square,  and  an  obelisk  to  five 
Polish  generals,  who  fell  fighting  for  Russia 
against  their  own  country.  The  park  surround- 
ing the  old  Saxon  palace  is  a  beautiful  promenade, 
and  a  favorite  resort  of  the  beaus  and  belles* of 
Warsaw.  The  Jews'  quarter  has  some  points  of 
local  interest ;  each  shop  bears  its  sign  in  four 
different  languages  ;  the  men  wear  long  coats,  and 
a  curl  hanging  over  each  ear,  and  the  women 
wigs  of  false  red  hair  over  their  own  natural  locks. 
The  Palace  of  Lazienski  was  the  residence  of 
King  Poniatowski;  it  is  situated  on  an  island,  in  the 
midst  of  a  lovely  lake,  and  surrounded  by  beauti- 
ful grounds.  A  curious  and  interesting  feature 
belonging  to  the  palace  is  an  open-air  theatre, 
built  of  stone,  and  ornamented  with  statues,  the 
audience  being  seated  in  an  amphitheatre  of  stone 


98  A    TOUR 

benches  graded  down  to  the  water's  edge;  and 
on  a  small  island  opposite,  separated  by  a  narrow 
strip  of  water,  and  accessible  only  by  boat,  is  the 
stage  where  the  performance  takes  place,  while 
gayly-lighted  barks  passing  to  and  fro  add  ani- 
mation to  this  already  novel  scene. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

BERLIN  :      DRESDEN. 

BERLIN,  the  capital  of  the  German  Empire,  as 
well  as  of  Prussia,  has  a  population  of  1,123,000, 
and  is  situated  on  the  river  Spree,  which  is  crossed 
by  fifty  bridges.  It  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
cities  in  Europe,  and  is  the  great  centre  of  intel- 
lectual and  artistic  development  of  Northern  Ger- 
many. It  is  the  home  of  many  of  the  best  Ger- 
man artists  and  scientists,  and  a  place  of  various 
and  extensive  manufactures. 

Unter  den  Linden,  so  called  from  its  double 
rows  of  lime  trees,  is  a  beautiful  avenue  over  a 
mile  in  length,  ornamented  with  statues,  and  lined 
with  palaces  and  other  handsome  buildings.  Here 
are  continually  to  be  seen  the  military,  accom- 
panied by  fine  bands,  handsome  equipages,  and 
crowds  of  pedestrians. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  99 

The  finest  monuments  of  the  city  are,  the 
equestrian  statue  of  Frederick  the  Great,  in 
bronze,  surrounded  by  his  leading  generals,  and 
statesmen,  3 1  in  number  ;  the  work  of  the  famous 
German  sculptor,  Rauch ;  also  those  of  Frederick 
William  III.  the  great  Elector,  father  of  Frederick 
I.;  Blucher,  Bulow,  Goethe,  Schiller,  and  other 
prominent  men.  The  Brandenburg  Gate,  erected 
in  1789,  surmounted  by  Victory  in  a  chariot,  is  a 
magnificent  triumphal  arch,  facing  the  palace  at 
the  other  extremity  of  the  Unter  den  Linden. 
This  gate  leads  into  the  Thier-garten,  a  lovely 
park  beautifully  arranged  for  promenading  and 
driving;  in  it  are  several  small  inclosures  for  open 
air  concerts,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  park  stands 
a  column  to  Victory,  surmounted  by  an  angel, 
commemorative  of  the  wars  of  1864-66-71. 

The  Royal  Palace,  built  by  Frederick  I.,  is 
spacious,  and  used  on  state  occasions  only ;  at  its 
entrance  are  the  bronze  horses  presented  by 
Nicholas  of  Russia,  and  in  the  court  the  statue  of 
St.  George  and  the  Dragon.  The  palace  contains 
600  apartments,  magnificent  in  gilding  and  mir- 
rors. In  the  throne-room  is  an  elaborately- 
carved  silver  balcony,  intended  for  an  orchestra, 
and  opposite  the  throne  are  golden  shields, 
arranged  on  the  walls  as  reflectors  of  the  lights. 
The  White  Hall,  used  for  state  balls,  contains  the 
statues  of  the  twelve  electors  of  Brandenburg,  and 
the  banqueting  hall,  70  yards  long,  is  also  the 


100  A    TOUR 

picture  gallery.  In  it  are  paintings  of  Frederick 
the  Great  and  his  generals,  Bonaparte  crossing  the 
Alps,  and  the  Coronation  of  William  as  King  of 
Prussia,  at  Konigsberg,  in  1861,  and  as  Emperor 
of  Germany  at  Versailles  in  1871.  The  chapel 
seats  1500  people,  and  is  walled  and  paved  with 
variegated  marbles. 

The  Emperor's  home-palace,  while  being  ele- 
gantly furnished,  and  filled  with  works  of  art,  has 
every  appearance  of  genuine  comfort. 

The  Chateau  Montbijou,  formerly  a  palace,  is 
devoted  at  present  to  a  collection  of  historical 
relics.  Frederick  the  Great  is  here  represented  in 
wax,  seated  in  his  coronation  chair,  with  his  flute, 
and  surrounded  by  his  favorite  dogs  and  war 
horse.  In  the  room  of  Frederick  William  III.  are 
some  specimens  of  embroidery  done  by  the  beau- 
tiful Queen  Louise,  mother  of  the  present  emperor  ; 
also  are  preserved  Napoleon's  hat,  and  all  his 
decorations,  taken  by  Bliicher  at  the  battle  of 
Waterloo ;  and  two  cannon-balls  welded  together 
as  they  met  in  mid-air  at  the  siege  of  Magde- 
burg. 

The  Royal  Library  contains  Luther's  Bible, 
from  which  he  made  his  translation ;  also  the 
translations  of  the  psalms  in  his  own  handwriting, 
Guttenberg's  Bible,  the  first  book  printed  with 
movable  type,  in  1450;  the  prayer-book  which 
Charles  I.  carried  with  him  to  the  scaffold,  and 
two  hemispheres  of  metal,  by  means  of  which  Otto 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  IOI 

Guericke  discovered  the  principles  of  the  air- 
pump. 

In  the  Cathedral  are  the  coffins  of  Frederick 
William  and  Frederick  I.  and  their  queens,  and 
here  the  Mendelsohn  choir  chant  every  Sunday ; 
while  adjoining  the  church  is  the  Campo  Santo,  or 
royal  burying-ground. 

In  the  Royal  stables  are  two  hundred  horses 
of  choice  breeds,  chiefly  black  in  color ;  but  the 
state  carriages,  although  of  more  substantial  make, 
do  not  compare  in  elegance  with  those  of  France 
or  England. 

The  Panopticon  is  a  collection  of  wax-figures 
representing  the  monarchs  and  prominent  men  of 
Germany  and  other  nations.  A  life-like  group 
is  that  representing  the  Council  of  Arbitration  held 
at  Geneva,  September  I4th,  1872,  and  presided 
over  by  Bismarck. 

In  the  National  gallery  is  a  fine  collection  from 
the  best  modern  artists  of  Germany ;  among  the 
340  paintings  on  exhibition,  are  Jeremiah  lament- 
ing before  Jerusalem,  by  Belderman ;  Jeptha's 
Daughter,  by  Richter  ;  the  March  of  Death,  by 
Spangenburg  ;  the  Pursuit  of  Fortune,  by  Kenne- 
berg,  and  some  strong  battle-scenes  by  various 
other  noted  painters.  Of  the  groups  of  statuary 
we  particularly  noticed  Faith,  Hope  and  Charity, 
by  Kiss;  Hagar  and  Ishmael,  by  Wittig;  and 
Prometheus  Bound,  by  Miiller. 

The  Museum  of  Berlin,  taken  as  a  whole,  is 


102  A    TOUR 


-. 


scarcely  inferior  to  any  in  Europe.  In  front  of  the 
building  is  an  immense  vase  of  polished  granite, 
66  feet  in  circumference,  the  largest  in  the  world. 
At  one  side  of  the  entrance  is  a  celebrated  group 
in  bronze  by  Kiss,  of  an  Amazon  slaying  a  tiger, 
and  on  the  other,  one  by  Wolf,  of  spearing  a  lion. 
In  the  Egyptian  apartment  is  a  temple  supported 
by  pillars,  and  enclosing  statues  of  deities  and 
kings :  also  the  tomb  of  a  high-priest,  brought 
from  Thebes,  spices  and  other  ingredients  for  em- 
balming, and  brass  hooks  used  for  drawing  the 
brain  through  the  nose.  In  the  picture  gallery  is 
a  painting  of  the  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  by 
Teniers :  the  artist  represents  the  saint  in  his  own 
person,  his  wife,  with  a  small  portion  of  tail  visible 
beneath  the  folds  of  her  dress  portrays  the  Temp- 
tress, while  the  mother-in-law  appears  in  the  very 
decided  form  of  a  devil. 

Potsdam,  20  miles  from  Berlin,  has  no  less 
than  five  palaces,  the  summer  residence  of  royalty. 
The  palace  of  Sans  Souci,  built  by  Frederick  the 
Great,  is  a  low,  unpretending  building  externally, 
but  replete  with  historic  interest.  In  the  room  in 
which  Frederick  breathed  his  last  is  the  clock 
which  stopped  the  moment  of  his  death,  its  hands 
yet  pointing  to  the  hour  and  minute.  Adjoining 
the  apartments  of  his  royal  friend  and  host,  is 
the  bedroom  of  Voltaire,  left  undisturbed  since  his 
occupation.  In  the  midst  of  the  handsome 
grounds  stands  the  historic  windmill  which  Fred- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  103 

erick  desired  to  purchase  on  account  of  the  ground 
it  occupied,  but  the  miller  refusing  to  sell,  the  king 
brought  suit  and  lost;  whereupon  he  built  the 
miller  a  fine  mill  as  a  monument  to  Prussian 
justice. 

Charlottenhof,  a  villa  in  the  same  grounds, 
built  by  Frederick  William  III.,  contains  the 
apartments  occupied  by  Alexander  von  Hum- 
boldt,  and  is  built  in  imitation  of  a  Pompeian 
dwelling,  with  baths,  fountains,  statues  and  bronzes 
taken  from  the  ruins  of  Pompeii. 

The  New  Palace,  now  occupied  by  the  Crown 
Prince,  was  erected  by  Frederick  the  Great  at 
enormous  expense,  after  the  Seven  Years'  war,  in 
order  to  show  his  enemies  the  extent  of  his  re- 
sources. The  ball-room  is  built  to  imitate  the 
interior  of  a  grotto,  the  walls  and  ceilings  being 
formed  from  shells  and  minerals  of  every  variety, 
interspersed  at  intervals  by  cascades  and  sta- 
lactites. 

Babelsburg,  the  summer  residence  of  the 
present  Emperor,  is  a  castle  beautifully  located 
on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  surrounding 
country. 

In  the  town  of  Potsdam  is  the  Garnison 
Church,  its  walls  covered  with  flags  taken  from 
the  Atistrians  and  French,  where  lie  the  remains 
of  Frederick  the  Great  and  those  of  his  father, 
Frederick  William  I. 

Charlottenburg,   a   suburb  of  Berlin,  contains 


104  A    TOUR 

the  palace  built  by  the  queen  of  Frederick  I.,  en- 
vironed by  beautiful  grounds  with  avenues  of 
orange  and  pine-trees.  To  the  rear  of  the  palace 
is  a  mausoleum  of  granite,  in  which  are  the  tombs 
of  Frederick  William  III.  and  the  beautiful  queen 
Louise,  father  and  mother  of  the  present  Em- 
peror; also  the  heart  of  Frederick  William  IV. 
The  recumbent  figures  repose  on  a  marble  sarco- 
phagus, both  masterpieces  by  Rauch ;  and  on 
either  side  are  marble  candelabra  representing,  re- 
spectively, the  three  Muses  and  the  three  Fates. 
Anniversary  services  are  held  here  twice  a  year; 
the  subdued  light  shining  on  the  marble  figures 
through  blue  glass,  giving  a  weird  effect  to  the 
scene. 

In  Berlin  we  witnessed  a  grand  review  of  the 
German  army,  some  40,000  men,  by  the  Emperor 
William,  who,  though  86  years  old,  rode  on  horse- 
back and  looked  every  inch  a  soldier,  while  the 
troops,  in  their  gay  uniforms,  commanded  by 
officers  the  names  of  many  of  whom  are  historic, 
moved  with  wonderful  precision  and  exactitude. 

At  the  Royal  Opera  House  the  same  evening, 
Satanella  was  especially  rendered  for  his  Majesty, 
who,  with  the  royal  family,  occupied  four  boxes  ; 
and  on  each  side  were  his  ministers,  generals  and 
high  officials,  numbering  about  three  hundred  per- 
sons. Of  the  five  hundred  performers,  two  hun- 
dred were  an  unrivalled  ballet  of  beautiful  girls, 
the  leading  dancer,  Fraulein  Del  Era,  being  con- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD  105 

sidered  the  equal  of  the  famous  Taglioni.  The 
scenery  was  superb  and  original ;  hell  represented 
teeming  with  devils  and  imps,  while  heaven  was  a 
garden  of  blooming  flowers,  with  statuary,  foun- 
tains and  music  the  danseuses  embodying  devils 
and  flowers. 

Dresden,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Saxony, 
is  on  the  Elbe,  and  has  a  population  of  221,000. 
Its  rich  collections  of  works  of  art,  its  many  men 
of  learning  and  talent,  its  splendid  opera,  its  edu- 
cational advantages,  added  to  its  healthy  and 
bracing  climate,  have  made  it  a  favorite  residence 
of  Americans  abroad.  The  river  divides  the  city 
into  the  new  and  the  old  town  ;  in  the  former  is 
an  equestrian  statue  of  Augustus  II.,  while  in  the 
latter  are  the  finest  private  residences,  public 
buildings  and  squares,  and  the  monuments  to 
Carl  Weber  and  Frederick  Augustus;  also  a 
statue  to  Victory,  commemorative  of  the  war 
of  1871.  Of  its  various  manufactures,  those  of 
porcelain  and  musical  instruments  are  the  most 
extensive  and  celebrated. 

In  the  Schloss,  or  Royal  Palace,  are  the  Green 
Vaults,  a  series  of  eight  rooms,  with  a  rare  and 
valuable  collection  of  precious  stones,  and  carv- 
ings in  ivory  and  crystal.  One  room  contains  the 
gala  dress  of  the  Elector  of  Saxony,  consisting  of 
coat  and  vest  buttons,  epaulets,  sword-hilt,  scab- 
bard and  buckles,  all  made  of  diamonds  of  the 
purest  water,  and  weighing  from  40  to  50  carats 


106  A    TOUR 

each,  while  in  another  is  the  coronation  robe  of 
Frederick  Augustus  II.,  when  crowned  King  of 
Poland.  Among  a  number  of  immense  pearls  is 
one  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg,  which  forms  the 
body  of  a  statuette  of  a  certain  court-dwarf  of 
Spain.  A  great  curiosity  is  a  miniature  court  of 
the  Great  Mogul,  the  throne  being  of  gold  and 
silver,  surrounded  by  138  enamelled  figures,  set 
with  precious  stones.  The  green  diamond  is 
among  the  magnificent  stones  here  exhibited, 
which  are  worn  by  each  queen  at  her  coronation, 
upon  the  delivery  of  which  she  is  required  to  give 
a  receipt,  and  to  return  them  to  the  vaults  the  fol- 
lowing day.  To  give  an  idea  of  the  immense 
value  of  the  collection,  the  contents  of  this  room 
alone  is  said  to  be  valued  at  $15,000,000.  The 
great  wealth  here  lying  idle  is  accounted  for  by 
the  fact  of  the  Saxon  princes, — formerly  the  rich- 
est monarchs  in  Europe,  having  owned  the  Frei- 
burg silver  mines,  and  invested  much  of  their 
great  wealth  in  precious  stones. 

The  Japanese  Palace,  so  called  from  its  Jap- 
anese decorations,  was  built  by  Augustus  the 
Strong,  as  a  summer  residence;  at  present  it  is 
devoted  to  a  collection  of  statuary,  and  a  library 
rich  in  manuscripts,  among  them  the  conjuring 
book  of  Dr.  Faustus. 

The  Military  and  Historical  Museum  surpasses 
all  others  in  the  variety,  richness  and  quality  of 
its  arms  and  trappings  for  both  man  and  horse. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  IO/ 

Among  the  relics  are  the  cuirass,  weighing  100 
Ibs.,  and  the  helmet  20  Ibs.,  worn  by  Augustus, 
surnamed  the  Strong;  also  the  horse-shoe  which 
he  broke  in  twain  with  the  bare  strength  of  his 
hand.  Here,  also,  are  the  boots  and  saddle  of 
Napoleon  used  at  the  battle  of  Dresden,  and  his 
slippers,  worn  at  his  coronation ;  an  elegantly 
embroidered  tent,  taken  from  a  Turkish  general 
at  the  siege  of  Vienna,  and  the  pistols  worn  by 
Charles  XII.  the  day  of  his  death.  The  suits  of 
armor  seen  here  are  the  finest  ever  made,  some 
weighing  as  much  as  200  Ibs.  and  causing  certain 
death  to  the  wearer,  if  thrown  from  his  horse. 
The  China  collection  numbers  60,000  pieces, 
dating  from  the  earliest  manufacture  in  China, 
thousands  of  years  ago,  to  the  present  improved 
styles  of  Germany. 

The  Picture  Gallery  of  Dresden,  so  celebrated 
for  its  fine  paintings  by  old  masters,  was  respected 
by  even  those  great  despoilers  of  art,  Napoleon  I. 
and  Frederick  II.,  when  taking  the  city.  Its  finest 
paintings  are :  the  Madonna  di  San  Sisto,  by 
Raphael,  purchased  by  Augustus  III.  from  the 
Duke  of  Modena  for  $40,000  ;  the  Madonna  and 
Burgomaster's  child,  Holbein's  masterpiece ; 
Correggio's  Virgin  and  Infant  Christ;  also  his 
Recumbent  Magdalene ;  St.  Cecelia,  by  Carlo 
Dolce ;  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  by  Claude  ;  Lio- 
tard's  Chocolate  Girl ;  Battoni's  Penitent  Magda- 
lene ;  the  Disputation  between  Martin  Luther  and 


108  A   TOUR 

Dr.  Eck ;  and  Behind  the  Scenes ;  the  two  latter 
paintings  by  modern  artists. 

The  Catholic  cathedral  is  a  large  edifice  orna- 
mented with  statues.  It  has  a  fine  organ,  and 
on  Sundays  the  orchestra  from  the  Grand  Opera 
House  discourses  sacred  music.  Over  the  altar  is 
the  Royal  box,  connected  with  the  palace  by  a 
bridge  crossing  the  street,  and  ladies  and  gentle- 
men are  compelled  to  separate,  and  sit  on  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  church. 

Meissen,  1 5  miles  from  Dresden,  is  celebrated 
for  its  porcelain  manufacture  of  Dresden  china. 
This  was  the  first  place  in  Europe  where  it  was 
made,  in  1705,  Batticher,  an  alchymist,  acciden- 
tally discovering  the  art,  in  his  search  for  the 
Philosopher's  Stone.  Meissen  is  the  terminus  of 
the  mammoth  tunnel,  24  miles  long,  which  drains 
the  Frieburg  silver  mines ;  and  here,  also,  is  an 
old  Gothic  castle,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Saxon 
kings. 

From  Dresden  to  Prague  the  railroad  follows 
the  river  Elbe,  and  passes  some  old  German  and 
Austrian  forts  and  castles,  in  the  midst  of  fine 
mountain  scenery,  from  which  this  section  of 
country  derives  its  name  of  the  Switzerland  of 
Saxony. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  109 


CHAPTER  X. 

PRAGUE  :     LINZ  :     THE     DANUBE  :    VIENNA  :    SEMMERING- 

PASS:  ISCHL:  GMUNDEN  :  SALZBURG:  KOENIGSSEE: 
INNSBRUCK :  BRIXLEGG : 

PRAGUE,  the  capital  of  Bohemia,  on  the  Mol- 
dau  river,  has  a  population  of  250,000,  and  is  next 
to  Vienna  in  importance  in  the  Austrian  Empire. 
It  is  located  in  a  basin,  surrounded  by  high  rocky 
cliffs,  and  is  particularly  noted  for  its  manufacture 
of  Bohemian  glass-ware,  and  for  the  fine  garnets 
it  produces.  On  the  heights  of  Laurenziberg  the 
fire  worshippers  of  old  celebrated  their  peculiar 
rites,  and  where  the  acropolis  now  stands,  was 
formerly  the  palace  of  Queen  Lybussa,  the 
founder  of  Prague,  a  notorious  wanton,  who  cast 
her  lovers  into  the  river  below,  after  becoming 
weary  of  them. 

The  streets  of  Prague  are  for  the  most  part 
narrow  and  crooked,  and  the  numerous  arches  and 
gates  spanning  them  add  to  their  general  antique 
appearance,  while  the  principal  avenues  are  well 
paved,  and  lighted  by  immense  burners.  Among 
the  statues  ornamenting  the  streets  are,  the  eques- 
trian figure  of  Francis  I.,  surrounded  by  sixty 
characters  in  bronze,  representing  the  different 


I  IO  A   TOUR 

provinces  of  Austria,  and  that  of  Von  Radetz 
standing  on  his  shield,  borne  by  ten  soldiers.  A 
stone-bridge  crossing  the  river  has  thirty-two  life- 
size  statues  on  either  side  of  it,  the  centre  one 
being  a  bronze  figure  of  St.  John  Nepomuk,  who 
was  thrown  from  the  bridge  from  this  spot  and 
drowned,  by  order  of  King  Wencislaus,  for  refusing 
to  betray  the  secrets  of  the  queen,  confided  to 
him  in  the  confessional.  The  five  stars  encircling 
his  head  are  representative  of  those  reflected  in 
the  water  over  the  spot  where  the  body  lay  until 
its  recovery  three  days  later. 

It  was  in  Prague  that  John  Huss,  born  at  Huss 
in  Bohemia,  first  became  imbued  with  the  doc- 
trines of  Wickliff,  and  declared  the  worship  of  the 
Virgin  and  saints  idolatory.  In  the  museum 
still  exists  his  autograph  letter,  challenging  all 
who  would  to  dispute  with  him  on  the  articles  of 
his  belief.  Being  summoned  to  Constance,  to 
render  an  account  of  his  doctrine,  and  under 
assurance  of  safe-conduct  from  the  Emperor  Sigis- 
mund,  he  fell  into  the  snare  ;  for  hardly  had  he 
arrived  than  he  was  thrown  into  prison,  and  suf- 
fered martyrdom  at  the  stake,  with  heroic  cour- 
age. Thus  commenced  the  famous  Hussite  war 
led  by  John  Zizka,  who  defeated  the  emperor ; 
and  it  is  said,  at  his  death,  gave  orders  to  have  a 
drum  made  from  his  skin,  in  order  to  inspire  his 
enemies  with  superstitious  alarm. 

The   Palace,   or   Hradschin,   now   occupied   by 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  in 

the  Crown  Prince  of  Austria,  was  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  Bohemian  kings,  and  contains 
1,000  rooms.  Its  chief  point  of  interest  is  the 
council  chamber,  where  the  imperial  commission- 
ers, sent  hither  with  the  most  intolerant  edicts 
against  the  Bohemian  protestants,  were  remorse- 
lessly thrown  from  the  window,  two  crosses  be- 
neath still  marking  the  spot  where  they  fell.  This 
was  in  1618,  and  the  inauguration  of  the  Thirty 
Years'  War,  which  secured  the  liberty  of  Germany, 
and  closed  with  the  treaty  of  Westphalia,  in  1648. 
The  Cathedral  of  St.  Vitus,  in  the  palace 
inclosure,  contains  many  fine  monuments,  besides 
being  a  complete  museum  of  relics.  Before  its 
high  altar,  the  emperors  of  Austria  are  crowned 
King  of  Bohemia.  In  this  church  are  the  marble 
tombs  of  Rudolph  III.  and  other  kings;  a  gor- 
geous shrine  of  silver,  surrounded  by  angels,  the 
whole  weighing  4,000  Ibs.  incloses  a  crystal  coffin, 
in  which  are  the  remains  of  St.  John  Nepomuk  ; 
and  in  a  side  chapel,  whose  walls  are  of  agate  and 
amethyst,  is  the  tomb  of  Saint  Wenzel,  who  was 
murdered  by  his  brother  in  the  loth  century. 
The  Loretto  Chapel  is  built  in  imitation  of  the 
wandering  house  of  Nazareth,  and  is  considered 
the  most  sacred  shrine  in  Prague.  It  contains 
two  rooms,  counterparts  of  those  occupied  by 
Joseph  and  Mary.  In  the  front  room  is  a  shelf, 
on  which  Joseph  kept  his  tools,  and  here,  also,  are 
shown  the  leg-bone  of  Mary  Magdalene,  and  the 


112  A   TOUR 

skull  of  one  of  the  wise  virgins.  The  church 
treasury  contains  bones  of  Abraham,  Isaac  and 
Jacob,  the  pocket  handkerchief  of  the  Virgin,  the 
tongue  of  St.  John,  a  piece  of  wood  and  two  nails 
from  the  True  Cross,  two  thorns  from  the  Crown  of 
Christ,  a  fragment  of  the  rope  with  which  He  was 
bound,  the  sponge  with  which  He  was  given  to 
drink,  one  of  the  palm-branches  over  which  He 
rode  ;  also  a  candelabrum  from  Solomons'  Tem- 
ple, the  bridal  dress  of  Maria  Theresa,  worked  by 
her  own  hands  into  a  Mas,s  robe,  and  divers  church 
insignia  of  gold  and  precious  stones. 

The  Thein  Church,  the  oldest  in  Prague,  still 
contains  the  pulpit  from  which  John  Huss,  the 
celebrated  reformer,  preached,  and  the  tomb  of 
the  great  astronomer  Tycho  Brahe.  It  was  here 
that  the  heads  and  hands  of  the  Protestant  leaders 
were  buried,  after  having  been  taken  down  from 
the  Gate  Tower,  where  they  had  been  hung  to 
appease  the  anger  of  Ferdinand  after  the  battle  of 
Whitehill. 

In  the  old  Jewish  synagogue,  which  dates 
back  1,300  years,  are  the  ancient  parchments  of 
the  laws  which  were  found  when  the  building  was 
unearthed.  The  burying-ground  adjoining  is  a 
curious  sight,  crowded  with  graves  on  top  of 
graves,  the  tombstones  lying  one  against  another, 
some  engraved  with  a  bunch  of  grapes,  the  em- 
blem of  the  tribes  of  Israel,  and  dating  back  to 
the  1 2th  century. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  113 

The  Wallenstein  Palace,  built  by  the  hero  and 
generalissimo  of  the  Thirty- Years'  war,  is  an  im- 
mense structure,  to  make  room  for  which  136 
houses  were  torn  down.  The  grounds  within  the 
palace  walls  are  tastefully  arranged,  and  in  one 
room  is  preserved  the  war-horse  of  Count  Wallen- 
stein, shot  under  him  in  battle.  It  is  said  that  he 
lived  in  a  style  of  magnificence  superior  to  that  of 
the  Emperor,  being  attended  by  sixty  pages  of 
noble  birth,  barons  and  knights.  When  he  went 
abroad,  over  a  hundred  carriages  were  in  his 
train,  besides  fifty  of  the  finest  saddle-horses,  and 
he  could  travel  for  three  hundred  miles  in  a 
straight  line,  without  quitting  his  estates.  His 
income  was  $5,000,000  annually,  but  all  was  con- 
fiscated at  his  death  by  the  Emperor,  who.  it  is 
supposed,  instigated  his  murder  by  poison. 

The  Rathhaus  and  the  Square  in  which  it 
stands  are  interesting,  from  their  association  with 
many  remarkable  historical  events.  During  the 
Hussite  troubles  the  mob  entered  the  council 
chamber,  and  threw  the  German  councillors  out 
of  the  windows,  upon  the  upraised  spears  of 
those  below,  repeating  the  same  act  of  barbarity 
sixty  years  later,  and  in  the  square,  John  of  Lux- 
emburg, commonly  known  as  the  blind  king  of 
Bohemia,  was  wounded  in  a  tournament 

Linz,  on  the  Danube,  has  a  population  of 
30,000,  and  is  the  principal  town  of  Upper  Aus- 
tria. In  the  Market-place  stands  the  Trinity 


I  14  A    TOUR 

Column,  erected  in  1713  by  Charles  VI.,  and  in 
the  Church  of  the  Capuchins  is  the  tomb  of 
Montecuculi,  a  celebrated  general  of  the  Thirty 
Years'  war.  From  the  Tower  of  Freiberg,  which 
was  built  by  the  Archduke  Maximilian,  and  is 
surrounded  by  32  forts,  is  obtained  one  of  the 
finest  views  in  Austria,  the  Danube  winding  its 
devious  course  through  a  varied  landscape. 

Taking  steamer  from  this  point  to  Vienna,  a 
distance  of  1 10  miles,  one  passes  through  the 
most  beautiful  and  picturesque  scenery  of  the 
Danube,  which  is  bordered  on  either  side  with 
high  mountain  peaks,  crowned  by  castles,  monas- 
teries, and  ruins,  and  is  to  Austria  what  the  Rhine 
is  to  Germany. 

Vienna,  the  capital  of  the  Austrian  Empire, 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Danube,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  over  1,000,000  inhabitants,  and  is  fifteen 
miles  in  circumference.  The  old  town  is  in  the 
heart  of  the  city,  and  what  was  formerly  its  fortifi- 
cations, is  now  the  Ringstrasse — a  broad  and 
elegant  boulevard  three  miles  in  circuit,  bordered 
with  trees  and  handsome  buildings.  Vienna  has 
two  large  parks,  besides  many  squares  and  gardens 
beautified  with  fine  statues  and  lovely  walks.  More 
wealth  is  here  represented  than  in  any  other  Eu- 
ropean city  of  its  size.  Its  people  are  light- 
hearted,  gay  and  fond  of  music,  and  are  partial  to 
out-of-door  amusements.  The  cafes  and  concert 
gardens  are  brilliantly  illuminated  at  night,  and 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  115 

thronged  with  a  pleasure-seeking  crowd,  all  com- 
bining to  render  this  city  the  second  Paris  of  the 
world. 

In  the  Palace  grounds,  which  are  open  to  the 
public,  are  the  superb  equestrian  statue  of  Arch- 
duke Charles,  representing  him  bearing  a  flag  at 
the  battle  of  Wagram,  and  that  of  Prince  Eugene 
of  Savoy.  In  the  same  grounds  is  a  small  tem- 
ple built  for  the  express  purpose  of  containing 
Canova's  fine  group  of  Theseus  killing  the  Centaur, 
which  was  cut  from  an  immense  block  of  marble. 
The  sculptor  received  the  order  for  this  piece  of 
statuary  from  Napoleon,  who  destined  it  for  the 
triumphal  arch  at  Milan.  A  portion  of  the  park 
is  appropriated  as  a  concert  garden,  where  every 
evening  the  military  band,  and  Strauss',  led  by 
that  excellent  composer  himself,  discourse  delight- 
ful strains  of  music. 

The  Imperial  Palace,  besides  having  many 
large  state  apartments,  contains  the  Grand  Salon, 
where  the  Thursday  before  Easter  of  each  year  the 
Emperor  and  Empress  wash  the  feet  of  twelve  old 
people  brought  in  indiscriminately  from  the  street, 
in  token  of  humility.  In  the  bed-room  of  Maria 
Theresa  is  the  furniture  which  was  once  used  by 
her;  and  an  adjoining  apartment  is  hung  with 
40  landscape  pictures  made  of  Florentine  mosaic 
of  great  value  and  beauty. 

The  Imperial  Library  contains  1,000,000  vol- 
umes, and  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  Europe  ;  in 


Il6  A    TOUR 

it  are  the  psalm-book  of  Charlemagne  ;  the  MSS. 
of  Tasso's  Jerusalem  Delivered,  and  Dante's  Divina 
Commedia;  and  a  military  map  of  the  Roman 
empire  of  the  4th  century. 

In  the  imperial  stables  are  several  hundred 
horses,  white  ones  being  used  exclusively  on  state 
occasions;  and  among  the  100  carriages  and  sleds 
are  the  coronation  carriages  of  Maria  Theresa  and 
Napoleon  I. 

Many  rare  and  beautiful  jewels  of  fabulous 
value,  are  kept  in  the  imperial  jewel  house,  among 
which  are  gems  belonging  to  the  imperial  family ; 
the  crowns  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  of  Aus- 
tria, sceptres,  orbs,  Orders  of  the  Golden  Fleece, 
and  other  national  decorations.  Here  is  an  em- 
erald weighing  2,980  carats,  and  the  Florentine 
diamond,  133^  carats,  lost  by  Charles  the  Bold 
at  the  battle  of  Granson.  Among  the  historical 
curiosities  are  the  Turkish  seal  of  the  Sultan  Mus- 
tapha  II.,  the  sword  of  Charlemagne,  the  horo- 
scope of  Count  Waldstein  ;  the  carving-knife  used 
by  Philip  of  Burgundy  at  the  inauguration  of  the 
Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece  ;  a  silver  chain  of  one 
of  the  Doges  of  Venice,  the  silver  cradle  of 
Napoleon  II.,  and  the  coronation  mantle  and 
crown  of  Napoleon  I.  when  crowned  king  of 
Italy.  Among  the  sacred  relics  are  the  book  of 
the  holy  Gospel  found  on  the  knees  of  the  Emperor 
Charlemagne,  when  his  tomb  was  opened  by  Otho 
II.  at  Aix-la-Chapelle;  the  lance  of  St.  Maurice, 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  I  I/ 

with  a  nail  from  the  Holy  Cross  set  in  the  point 
of  the  blade  ;  a  piece  of  the  True  Cross  six  inches 
in  length,  and  surpassed  in  size  only  by  that  pre- 
served in  Rome;  a  portion  of  the  table-cloth  used 
at  the  Last  Supper ;  a  remnant  of  the  apron  worn 
by  Jesus  when  He  washed  the  feet  of  His  disciples ; 
a  bone  of  the  arm  of  St.  Anne, —  mother  of  the 
Virgin ;  three  links  of  the  iron  chains  with  which 
the  apostles,  Peter,  Paul  and  John  were  fettered ; 
a  piece  of  the  garment  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist ; 
a  tooth  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  blood  of  the 
holy  martyr,  Stephen. 

The  Imperial  Arsenal,  a  fine  structure,  is  hand- 
somely frescoed  with  scenes  from  the  celebrated 
battles  of  Austria,  painted  by  her  best  artists,  and 
has  200,000  stands  of  arms  and  armor  of  every 
period.  Of  the  historic  souvenirs  are  the  elk-skin 
coat  in  which  Gustavus  Adolphus  was  shot  at  the 
battle  of  Lutzen  ;  the  uniform  of  Prince  Eugene 
and  the  armors  of  Maurice  of  Saxony,  and  of 
Alexander  Farnese,  Duke  of  Parma.  In  the  Hall 
of  Glory  are  fifty-six  beautifully-carved  marble 
statues  of  Austria's  monarchs  and  bravest  war- 
riors;  also  a  colossal  group  representing  Austria 
shielding  her  provinces.  The  court-yard  contains 
the  monster  chain,  composed  of  8,000  links,  which 
was  thrown  across  the  Danube  in  1529. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen,  in  the  heart  of 
the  city,  is  an  elegant  Gothic  building  of  imposing 
dimensions  standing  on  the  site  of  an  old  cemetery 


Il8  A    TOUR 

which  Joseph  II.,  for  sanitary  reasons,  caused  to 
be  obliterated,  and  the  human  remains  destroyed 
with  quicklime.  Near  the  top  of  the  spire  of  this 
church,  which  is  450  feet  high,  is  the  watch-tower 
whence  alarms  are  given  in  case  of  fire.  Its  bell 
weighs  358  cwt.,  and  was  made  from  1 80  cannon 
taken  from  the  Turks.  The  interior  of  the  cathe- 
dral is  rich  in  sculpture  and  stained  glass,  and  in 
it  are  the  tombs  of  Prince  Eugene  and  of  the 
Emperor  Frederick  I. 

The  Votive  church,  a  modern  and  elaborate 
structure,  was  founded  by  the  Archduke  Maxi- 
milian— afterwards  emperor  of  Mexico — to  com- 
memorate an  unsuccessful  attempt  made  upon  the 
life  of  his  brother,  the  present  emperor,  Francis 
Joseph  I. 

The  Church  of  the  Augustines,  where  the  em- 
perors of  Austria  are  crowned,  is  embellished  by 
the  monument  of  the  Archduchess  Christine,  a 
masterpiece  by  Canova.  It  is  a  pyramid  of 
marble  representing  the  entrance  to  a  vault,  with 
figures  of  Virtue,  Benevolence  and  Humility  in 
the  act  of  ascending  the  steps.  Here  also  is  buried 
Dr.  Van  Swieton,  physician  to  Maria  Theresa,  and 
one  of  the  earliest  authorities  on  vaccination.  In 
the  Loretto  chapel  are  silver  urns  containing  the 
hearts  of  the  imperial  family,  their  entrails  being 
deposited  in  another  church,  and  their  bodies  in  a 
third. 

The   Church    of  the   Capuchins    is    the    royal 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  119 

burial  vault,  in  which  may  be  seen  the  coffins  of 
Maria  Theresa,  Francis  of  Lorraine,  Joseph  II., 
Francis  I.,  Marie  Louise,  —  wife  of  Napoleon  I., 
their  son,  Napoleon  II.,  Maximilian,  Emperor  of 
Mexico,  and  many  other  scions  of  royalty. 

The  Upper  Belvidere  Palace  was  built  by  the 
Austrian  General-in-Chief,  Eugene  of  Savoy,  in 
1724,  and  was  appropriated  by  Joseph  II.  for  the 
picture  gallery  of  the  imperial  court.  Besides  the 
portraits  of  Maria  Theresa  and  Joseph  II.,  are 
Titian's  Ecce  Homo ;  Van  Dyke's  Crucifixion, 
and  portraits  of  the  aged  parents  of  Rembrandt 
and  of  Denner,  painted  by  these  two  artists. 
Among  the  modern  paintings  are  the  Last  Ap- 
peal, by  Defregger;  Hecuba  weeping  for  her 
children,  by  Russ;  and  the  Queen  of  Naples 
with  her  children  on  the  way  to  prison,  by 
Engerth. 

The  Lower  Belvidere  contains  the  Ambras 
collection,  brought  from  the  Tyrol  by  the  Arch- 
duke Ferdinand :  of  these  are  suits  of  armor  of 
Maximilian,  Ferdinand,  and  of  his  giant  attendant, 
eight  feet  in  height;  besides  fine  specimens  of 
carved  ivory,  and  some  portraits  of  the  nobility  of 
Europe. 

In  the  city  Arsenal  is  the  head  of  the  Grand 
Vizier  Mustapha,  a  Turkish  general  commanding 
at  the  siege  of  Vienna,  in  1683,  who  was  strangled 
by  order  of  the  sultan  for  having  failed  to  take 
the  city,  and  here  also  are  his  saddle  and  baton. 


120  A   TOUR 

Mohammed's  Green  Standard  is  among  the  many 
Turkish  trophies  here  displayed  ;  it  is  three  by 
four  feet  in  dimension,  of  green  stuff  striped 
with  yellow,  inscribed  with  mottoes  from  the 
Koran,  and  the  names  of  the  first  four  followers 
of  the  Prophet ;  Abu  Bekr;  Omar;  Osman  ;  and 
Ali ;  this  is  carried  in  holy  wars  and  raised  only 
on  occasions  of  dire  distress ;  and  all  who  fall 
fighting  beneath  this  banner  are  assured  of 
Heaven. 

The  Cabinet  of  Antiquities  has  a  large  and 
valuable  collection  of  cameos ;  one  of  them,  the 
largest  in  the  world  being  26  inches  in  circumfer- 
ence, carved  in  representation  of  the  Apotheosis 
of  Augustus,  and  considered  the  perfection  of 
art. 

In  the  National  Exhibition  of  Paintings — which 
takes  places  annually  were  :  the  Dying  Wish,  by 
Valentiny;  the  Virgin  Consolatrice,  by  Bouguerau; 
the  Death  of  Wallenstein,  by  Piloig ;  the  Pest  at 
Tournay,  by  Gallait ;  Leda  and  the  Swan,  by 
Michael  Angelo  ;  and  lo  and  Jupiter,  by  Correg- 
gio. 

Schonbrunn,  five  miles  from  Vienna,  is  the 
summer  palace  of  the  Emperor.  It  was  built  by 
Maria  Theresa,  and  is  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
grounds  in  which  are  high  hedges,  Pompeian 
ruins,  and  the  Gloretta  Temple.  It  was  here  the 
assassination  of  Napoleon  I.  was  attempted  by  the 
German  student  Stapps,  and  the  place  possesses  a 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  1 21 

melancholy  historic  interest  from  its  having  been 
the  scene  of  the  death  of  the  young  Duke  of 
Reichstadt  —  Napoleon  II,  in  1832,  in  the  same 
bed  occupied  by  his  imperial  father  in  1809.  The 
council-room  of  Maria  Theresa ;  the  tapestry 
apartments,  and  Napoleon's  bedroom  are  points  of 
much  interest. 

From  Vienna  we  went  by  rail  over  the  Sem- 
mering  Pass,  which  is  3,256  feet  high,  the  lowest 
in  the  Alpine  range,  passing  mountain  rocks  tow- 
ering over  10,000  feet,  fertile  valleys  and  beauti- 
ful lakes  and  cascades,  forming  the  grandest 
scenery  of  the  Austrian  Alps.  There  are  many 
exquisitely  beautiful  spots  on  this  route  which  de- 
serve more  than  a  passing  notice :  Aussee,  at  the 
junction  of  three  rivers  which  form  Lake  Traun 
is  overlooked  by  Mount  Loser,  a  peak  5,000  feet 
high,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  whey  cure. 

Hallstadt,  on  the  romantic  lake  of  the  same 
name,  is  situated  at  the  base  of  a  mountain  7,000 
feet  high,  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  water, 
leaving  no  place  for  a  road  ;  communication  being 
maintained  by  steps,  the  houses  resembling  swal- 
lows' nests  clinging  to  the  side  of  the  rock. 

Ischl,  a  small  town  on  a  river  of  the  same 
name,  is  a  fashionable  Austrian  watering-place. 
It  is  picturesquely  located  in  a  basin  environed  on 
all  sides  by  high  mountain  peaks,  and  is  the  site  of 
the  Emperor's  favorite  summer  palace.  The  ex- 
tensive salt-works  belonging  to  the  government 


122  A    TOUR 

are  located  at  this  place ;  the  salt  and  mud  baths, 
for  which  it  is  noted,  attract  large  numbers  of 
invalids. 

Giniinden,  a  village  of  2,000  inhabitants,  is 
also  a  fashionable  summer  resort  and  one  of  the 
loveliest  spots  in  Europe.  It  nestles  on  the  banks 
of  Lake  Traun,  which  is  nine  miles  long  and  one 
wide,  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  mountain  peaks, 
some  of  which  rise  almost  perpendicularly  to  a 
height  of  six  thousand  feet.  The  shores  of  this 
lake  are  dotted  with  pretty  villages  and  the  villas 
of  nobility  ;  avenues  of  trees  border  the  banks, 
and  fanciful  little  boats  whose  oars  keep  time  to 
the  rhythm  of  the  musical  strains  borne  from  the 
shore,  float  placidly  on  its  glassy  surface. 

Salzburg,  the  capital  of  the  Austrian  province 
of  the  same  name,  is  on  the  river  Salza,  and  has 
a  population  of  20,000.  The  Castle  of  Hohen- 
salzburg,  which  crowns  the  heights  overlooking 
the  city,  was  the  former  residence  of  the  sover- 
eign archbishop.  In  the  Rack  Tower  is  the  cham- 
ber of  torture,  where  many  protestant  victims 
were  first  hung  to  the  roof  with  1 50  Ib.  weights 
tied  to  their  feet ;  and  then  allowed  to  drop  into 
a  terrible  donjon  below. 

Salzburg  was  the  birthplace  of  Mozart — 1756 
—  and  in  the  room  where  he  first  saw  the  light, 
are  yet  preserved  his  spinet  and  piano,  and  the 
MS.  of  his  musical  compositions  written  when 
only  four  years  old. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  123 

In  St.  Peter's  cemetery,  which  dates  back  to 
the  4th  century,  are  vaults  cut  in  the  rock  200 
feet  from  the  level  of  the  ground ;  and  from  a 
cave  above,  the  hermit  St.  Maximus  with  his  fol- 
lowers were  thrown,  in  477,  when  the  town  was 
destroyed  by  the  German  tribes.  Here  lies  buried 
the  great  composer  Haydn ;  and  seven  iron 
crosses  indicate  the  number  of  wives  of  a  certain 
man  who  murdered  them  in  turn,  by  tickling  their 
feet  until  death  relieved  them  from  their  hilarious 
torture. 

The  Palace  of  Heilbrunn,  four  miles  from  the 
city  is  celebrated  for  its  numerous  fountains  :  the 
Neptune  Grotto  sending  forth  5,000  jets;  and  a 
curious  contrivance,  worked  by  water-pressure,  is 
a  mechanical  theatre,  with  1 54  movable  figures, 
representing  a  town  in  the  full  bustle  of  daily  life. 

From  Salzburg,  a  beautiful  drive  leads  to  the 
Konigssee,  and  we  were  well  repaid  by  tarrying 
on  the  way  to  visit  the  government  salt  mine  at 
Batrichgarden.  Here  after  assuming  appropriate 
costumes  we  entered  the  mine  and  penetrated 
through  the  salt  tunnels  for  half  a  mile ;  then  sit- 
ting astride  a  slide  were  shot  with  great  velocity 
to  a  lower  level  where  the  miners  were  at  work 
excavating  in  the  huge  rocks  of  salt.  On  reach- 
ing a  lake  in  these  subterranean  regions  where  a 
weird  reflection  is  cast  upon  wave  and  shore  by 
myriad  oil  lamps,  we  entered  a  boat  and  crossed 
to  the  opposite  side,  where  mounting  a  small 


124  A    TOUR 

hand-car,  we  threaded  the  narrow  passages,  and 
emerged  once  more  into  daylight.  This  mine 
which  is  of  great  depth,  has  been  worked  for  250 
years,  and  is  a  monopoly  of  the  king  of  Bavaria. 
Salt  is  not  only  extracted  in  crystallized  form  from 
the  mine,  but  also  by  evaporation,  in  certain  lo- 
calities water  being  pumped  in  and  left  standing 
for  a  month,  when  it  is  found  to  have  absorbed  28 
per  cent  of  saline  matter. 

The  Konigssee,  a  romantic  lake  six  miles  long 
and  one  wide,  is  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  moun- 
tainous rocks  towering  to  a  height  of  from  5,000 
to  8,OOO  feet,  rising  up  so  perpendicularly  that 
nature  has  left  no  space  for  man  to  build  and  mar 
its  natural  beauty.  Taking  a  small  boat,  rowed 
by  stalwart  peasant  girls  in  bright,  national  cos- 
tume, we  sailed  its  entire  length,  whence  we 
crossed  to  Obersee,  a  smaller  lake,  separated  from 
it  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land. 

Innsbruck,  the  capital  of  the  Tyrol,  surrounded 
on  all  sides  by  mountains  io,OOO  feet  high,  has  a 
population  of  17,000  and  derives  its  name  from 
the  "bruck  "  or  bridge  which  crosses  the  river 
Inn.  This  is  the  scene  of  the  exploits  of  the 
famous  Tyrolean  chief,  Andreas  Hofer.  He  was 
an  inn-keeper  noted  for  his  honesty,  eloquence, 
and  piety ;  and  such  was  the  influence  that  he 
exerted  over  his  countrymen,  that  under  his 
leadership  the  French  were  repeatedly  driven 
from  the  country.  After  many  victories,  he  was 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  12$ 

elevated  to  the  head  of  the  government,  but  he 
still  continued  to  wear  his  peasant's  costume,  and 
while  occupying  the  palace  cost  the  government 
only  $5  per  day  for  his  personal  expenses.  He  was 
finally  betrayed  by  a  Judas  named  Roff,  and  con- 
veyed to  Mantua,  where  he  was  shot  by  order  of 
Napoleon  in  1810. 

In  the  Franciscan  church  is  the  tomb  of  Maxi- 
milian I.,  the  principal  object  of  attraction  in 
Innsbruck.  The  marble  sarcophagus,  on  which 
is  the  bronze  effigy  of  the  emperor,  is  ornamented 
with  24  bas-reliefs  of  Carrara  marble,  representing 
the  most  prominent  events  in  his  life,  of  such  ex- 
quisite beauty  and  delicacy  of  workmanship,  as 
to  resemble  fine  cameos.  Surrounding  the  monu- 
ment are  28  figures  of  heroic  size  in  bronze  of  dis- 
tinguished personages  of  the  house  of  Austria, 
and  in  the  same  church  is  a  marble  statue  of  An- 
dreas Hofer,  beneath  which  repose  his  remains. 

In  the  Museum  near  by,  are  the  clothes,  gun, 
and  decorations  of  this  remarkable  man,  whose 
history  is  concentrated  within  the  compass  of  a 
single  year,  but  to  whose  memory  every  hill,  vale, 
and  pass  of  the  Tyrol  are  enduring  monuments. 

Among  these  mountains  dwells  an  old  man 
whose  very  original  occupation  deserves  mention. 
Having  discovered  a  peculiar  kind  of  spider  whose 
web  is  remarkably  even,  strong,  and  pliable,  he 
conceived  the  idea  of  cultivating  it,  and  util- 
izing its  web.  After  selecting  the  most  uniform 


126  A    TOUR 

of  these  productions,  he  stretches  and  prepares 
them  by  a  process  known  only  to  himself,  and 
after  framing  so  that  the  webs  retain  their  trans- 
parency, they  are  consigned  to  artists,  who  with 
extreme  delicacy  of  touch,  paint  upon  them, 
usually  scenes  appropriate  to  the  Tyrol;  one  of  the 
largest  of  these,  portraying  a  hunting-scene  in  the 
mountains,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  secure. 

Continuing  through  the  Tyrolean  Alps  we  went 
to  Brixlegg,  a  small  village  surrounded  by  high 
mountain  peaks  in  the  vicinity  of  Oberamagau,  to 
witness  the  production  of  the  Passion  Play.  The 
performance  of  this  sacred  drama  was  sanctioned 
by  the  Catholic  clergy,  and  the  services  of  the 
church  were  held  at  an  earlier  hour  to  enable  all 
to  attend.  The  large  temporary  theatre  built  for 
the  occasion,  was  filled  with  over  1,000  religious 
and  devout  people,  and  a  large  number  of  the 
clergy.  The  play  given  on  Sunday  began  at  9.30 
A.  M.  and  continued,  with  a  short  intermission, 
throughout  the  day.  The  performance  was  a 
representation  of  the  Life  and  Passion  of  Our 
Saviour,  rendered  with  a  most  thrilling  and  rever- 
ential realism;  its  1 8  acts  alternated  by  tableaux 
of  scenes  from  the  Old  Testament. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  I2/ 


CHAPTER  XI. 

MUNICH:  CONSTANCE:  SCHAFFHAUSEN  :  ZURICH:  LU- 
CERNE: LAKE  LUCERNE:  RIGI  :  SACHSELN  :  GIES- 
BACH  FALLS  :  INTERLACHEN  :  BERN  :  FRIBOURG  : 
LAKE  OF  GENEVA  :  GENEVA. 

MUNICH,  the  capital  of  Bavaria,  is  on  the  river 
Isar,  with  a  population  of  230,000.  It  is  mostly 
of  modern  architecture,  and  its  principal  thor- 
oughfares are  adorned  with  numerous  statues.  It  is 
celebrated  for  its  extensive  collection  of  fine  paint- 
ings, its  bronze  foundry,  its  stained-glass  factory, 
and  its  excellent  beer. 

Most  of  the  fine  bronzes  of  the  world  come 
from  Munich,  one  of  the  largest  is  the  figure  of 
Bavaria  represented  in  the  form  of  a  colossal 
woman.  It  is  100  feet  high,  and  within  it  is  a 
spiral  staircase  which  ascends  to  the  interior  of  the 
head  where  eight  persons  can  be  comfortably 
seated  at  once.  This  statue  was  cast  in  the  Royal 
Bronze  Foundry,  in  1850,  by  Miller,  and  was 
made  of  78  tons  of  the  metal  of  captured  cannon. 
Here  we  saw  another  colossal  female  figure  of 
Germania  in  course  of  construction,  destined  for 
the  banks  of  the  Rhine. 


128  A   TOUR 

The  principal  statues  in  the  public  places  of 
the  city  are  those  of  Maximilian  I.  on  his  throne, 
Ludwig  I.  on  horseback,  Maximilian  II.  sur- 
rounded by  figures  of  Justice,  Peace,  Science,  and 
Power ;  and  over  the  Gate  of  Victory,  Bavaria  is 
represented  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  four  lions. 

In  the  Royal  Palace,  the  main  apartments  are 
the  throne  room  in  which  stand  twelve  colossal 
bronze-gilt  figures  of  the  princes  of  the  house  of 
Bavaria,  from  Otho  the  Illustrious,  1253,  to 
Charles  XII.  of  Sweden,  and  the  bedroom  of 
Charles  VII.  containing  the  magnificent  couch 
of  that  monarch,  the  hangings  of  which,  richly 
embroidered  in  gold,  employed  the  labor  of  40 
persons  for  I  5  years,  and  are  valued  at  $400,000. 
Among  the  relics  in  the  Royal  Chapel,  are  a  frag- 
ment from  the  flagellation  column;  one  of  the 
stones  cast  at  the  Saviour ;  the  skull  of  John  the 
Baptist,  and  the  prie-dieu  carried  for  Mary  .Stuart 
to  her  execution. 

The  Palace  Treasury  contains  several  crowns 
and  many  fine  jewels,  among  the  latter  of  which 
is  the  largest  blue  diamond  in  existence,  set 
in  the  order  of  the  Golden  Fleece;  and  a  mini- 
ature equestrian  statue  of  St.  George  and  the 
Dragon,  of  gold  and  white  enamel  thickly  set  with 
diamonds  and  rubies,  is  a  most  exquisite  piece  of 
workmanship. 

The  Royal  Library  is  next  in  extent  to  the 
largest  in  the  world.  In  it  is  a  collection  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  129 

10,000  Greek  and  Roman  coins,  besides  tablets  of 
wax  of  the  I5th  century;  the  Gospels,  written  in 
gold,  on  purple  vellum,  of  the  9th  century ;  and 
an  Egyptian  document,  dating  400  years  B.  C., 
which  was  found  in  a  tomb,  and  said  to  have  been 
bestowed  by  a  priest  upon  the  deceased,  as  a  pass- 
port to  heaven. 

The  National  Museum,  whose  walls  are  orna- 
mented with  143  frescoes,  illustrating  the  history 
of  Bavaria,  has  among  its  objects  of  interest 
tapestries  from  the  earliest  periods  of  manufac- 
ture to  the  present  perfect  productions  of  the 
Gobelins;  arms  used  previous  to  the  Christian  era, 
and  every  variety  of  instrument  of  torture,  inclu- 
ding the  stocks,  rack,  cat  o'  nine  tails,  screws, 
weights,  cages,  and  spiked  chairs  and  barrels. 

In  the  Gallery  of  Sculpture  are  the  statues  of 
Alexander  the  Great,  and  the  Barberini  Faun,  or 
Sleeping  Satyr,  said  to  have  been  thrown  from 
the  top  of  a  wall  by  the  Romans,  when  defending 
themselves  against  the  Goths. 

The  Old  Pinacotheca,  or  picture  gallery,  con- 
tains 1,400  paintings  by  old  masters,  among  which 
are  Rubens'  celebrated  Rape  of  the  Sabines,  and 
several  gems  by  Murillo,  of  Italian  beggar 
children. 

The  New  Pinacotheca  has  a  fine  collection  of 
paintings  on  porcelain,  and  pictures  by  modern, 
artists,  among  which  are  the  Destruction  of  Jeru- 
salem, by  Kaulbach;  the  Deluge,  by  Karl  Schorn; 


130  A    TOUR 

and  Thursnelda,  in  the  triumphal  train  of  Ger- 
manicus,  by  Piloty. 

In  the  Maximilianeum  are  thirty  of  the  largest 
and  finest  modern  paintings,  the  most  notable 
being,  Mohammed  entering  Mecca,  by  Miiller; 
the  Building  of  the  Pyramids,  by  Richter  ;  and 
the  Destruction  of  Carthage,  by  Conrader. 

In  connection  with  the  cemetery  of  Munich  is 
the  Lichtenhaus,  or  home  of  the  dead,  a  building 
where  all  bodies,  irrespective  of  rank  or  wealth, 
are  kept  for  three  days  before  burial,  as  a  precau- 
tion against  premature  interment.  As  soon  as 
the  coffins  of  the  deceased  are  brought  here,  the 
bodies  are  removed  and  laid  on  marble  slabs, 
with  a  wire  attached  to  the  right  forefinger,  which 
communicates  with  an  electric  bell,  numbered,  in 
the  watch-room  adjoining,  where  an  attendant 
keeps  constant  vigil. 

Constance,  an  ancient  city  of  the  Duchy  of 
Baden,  situated  on  Lake  Constance,  is  interesting 
from  its  association  with  John  Huss.  In  the 
Grand  Hall  were  held  the  sittings  of  the  famous 
council  of  1414-18,  which  was  composed  of  400 
of  the  magnates  of  Europe,  the  Pope,  cardinals, 
bishops  and  archbishops,  and  presided  over  by 
the  Emperor  Sigismund.  They  disposed  of  the 
schisms  in  the  Church,  elected  Martin  V.,  and 
condemned  John  Huss  and  Jerome  of  Prague  to 
be  burnt  at  the  stake. 

In  the  Miinster  Cathedral  is  shown  the  place 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  131 

where  Huss  stood  while  receiving  sentence  from 
Bishop  Hallam,  and  a  mile  distant  is  a  large,  ivy- 
covered  stone,  with  an  inscription  to  the  effect 
that  John  Huss  was  burnt  here  July  6th,  1415. 

Schaffhausen,  a  small  village  in  Switzerland, 
two  miles  from  Neuhausen,  is  charmingly  located 
on  the  Rhine,  with  a  view  of  the  snow-capped 
Alpine  range  in  the  distance,  and  the  Falls  of  the 
Rhine  below,  which,  though  less  grand  than  those 
of  Niagara,  are  more  picturesque.  In  the  midst 
of  the  falls  is  a  high  rock,  which  has  been  tun- 
nelled through  by  the  force  of  the  water.  This 
rock  is  approached  by  the  venturesome,  in  a 
small  boat  through  the  rapids,  and  climbed  to  its 
summit  for  a  finer  view  of  the  falls.  On  the  east 
side  of  the  river  is  the  old  castle  of  Laufen  over- 
hanging the  falls,  and  here  a  camera  obscura 
gives  a  miniature  picture  of  the  cataract  and  sur- 
rounding country. 

Zurich,  on  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  is  noted 
as  being  the  scene  of  the  beginning  of  the  Ref- 
ormation in  Switzerland,  and  the  home  of  the 
celebrated  physiognomist,  Lavater.  In  the  cathe- 
dral here  Zwingli,  the  reformer,  denounced  the 
errors  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  and  enforced  the 
doctrine  of  the  Reformation. 

The  Museum,  among  other  relics,  contains  the 
helmet,  sword  and  banner  of  Zwingli,  and  the 
cross-bow  of  William  Tell,  with  which  he  shot  the 
apple  from  the  head  of  his  son. 


132  A   TOUR 

From  Zurich  to  Lucerne,  the  rail  passes 
through  Zug,  on  the  banks  of  the  pretty  little 
lake  of  Zug. 

Lucerne,  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  is  the 
capital  of  the  Canton,  and  has  a  population  of 
15,000.  It  is  still  surrounded  by  its  old  walls, 
with  numerous  and  picturesque  watch-towers,  and 
is  noted  for  the  exquisite  beauty  and  grandeur  of 
the  surrounding  scenery,  the  lake  of  Lucerne  hav- 
ing, from  time  immemorial,  been  acknowledged 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  Swiss  lakes.  The  prin- 
cipal attraction  of  the  town  itself  is  the  Lion  of 
Lucerne,  a  monument  dedicated  to  the  officers 
and  soldiers  who  died  in  Paris  in  1792,  defending 
Louis  XVI.  It  is  of  colossal  size,  cut  in  the  solid 
rock.  Under  the  lion's  paw  is  a  fleur-de-lis, 
which  he  is  endeavoring  to  protect  with  his  latest 
breath,  the  life-blood  oozing  from  a  spear-wound 
in  his  side. 

Taking  the  steamer,  we  traversed  the  lake 
revelling  in  its  exquisite  scenery,  and  landed  at 
the  small  village  of  Altdorf,  in  the  centre  square 
of  which  is  a  fountain  surmounted  by  the  figure 
of  Gessler,  marking  the  spot  where  the  Austrian 
governor  caused  his  hat  to  be  hung  as  an  object 
of  reverence  to  the  people,  and  near  by  is  the 
spot  where  Tell's  son  stood,  while  his  father,  in 
obedience  to  the  mandate  of  the  cruel  tyrant,  gave 
evidence  of  his  wonderful  marksmanship.  Six 
miles  distant,  over  a  most  beautiful  and  romantic 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  133 

carriage-road,  skirting  the  lake,  and  in  many 
places  cut  through  the  solid  rock,  is  the  chapel  of 
William  Tell,  the  Mecca  of  all  Switzerland.  It 
was  here  the  hero  sprang  from  the  boat  and  made 
his  escape,  after  having  been  unfettered,  in  order 
that  he  might  be  enabled  to  row  Gessler  through 
a  storm  which  had  suddenly  arisen  on  the  lake. 

From  Vitznau  we  ascended  by  means  of  an 
inclined  railroad  to  the  top  of  Mount  Rigi,  which 
is  6,000  feet  high,  and  overlooks  Lucerne.  From 
its  summit  one  looks  down  upon  the  grandest 
panorama  conceivable,  the  snow-capped  peaks  of 
the  Alpine  range,  outlined  against  the  blue  hori- 
zon, eleven  lakes  nestling  amid  the  foliage  at  their 
base,  with  here  and  there  tiny  villages  clustered 
on  the  banks.  The  sunset  and  sunrise,  seen 
from  the  top  of  the  Rigi,  is  a  sight  we  will  not  be 
apt  to  forget.  Just  above  the  horizon  the  orb 
appeared  like  a  great  ball  of  rayless  fire,  tinting 
cloud  and  mountain  peak  with  gorgeous  coloring, 
creeping  softly  down  to  arouse  the  sleeping  scene 
beneath,  and  gradually  dispelling  the  mist  mid- 
way, which  rolled  at  our  feet  like  the  billows  of  a 
vast  grey  sea. 

From  Lucerne,  we  crossed  the  lake  to  Alp- 
nach,  and  there  took  carriage  over  the  beautiful 
and  picturesque  Brunig  Pass,  stopping  en  route 
at  the  village  of  Sachseln,  on  Lake  Sarnen,  in 
whose  small  church  are  the  remains  of  St.  Nicholas, 
the  Santa  Claus  of  universal  childhood,  who  ac- 


134  A  TOUR 

tually  lived  here,  and  is  the  patron  saint  of  this 
section.  A  portrait  represents  him  as  tall, 
slender  and  serious,  and  altogether  the  reverse  of 
his  traditionary  picture  According  to  the  leg- 
end, the  saint  was  the  father  of  ten  children,  and 
deserted  them  for  a  hermit's  life  in  the  mountains, 
a  portrayal  of  character  differing  as  widely  from 
the  original  of  our  childhood's  fancy  as  does  his 
pictured  semblance. 

Behind  the  high  altar,  and  above  it,  concealed 
by  a  movable  metal  screen  raised  by  means  of 
machinery,  is  the  skeleton  of  St.  Nicholas  kneeling 
in  prayer,  his  cloak  about  him,  in  death  as  in  life ; 
in  the  sockets  of  his  eyes  are  immense  diamonds, 
on  his  bony  fingers  are  many  rings,  and  -on  every 
rib  numbers  of  precious  stones. 

A  few  miles  further  on  the  road  is  the  village 
of  Gyswyl,  half  swept  away  in  1629  by  a  fearful 
torrent  from  the  Larribach,  which  formed  a  lake 
that  lasted  120  years,  until  the  inhabitants  dug  a 
tunnel  and  drained  off  its  waters. 

Leaving  our  carriage  at  Brienz,  we  crossed  the 
lake  to  the  Giesbach  Falls,  one  of  the  loveliest  in 
Switzerland.  They  consist  of  a  succession  of 
seven  cascades,  embowered  in  foliage,  leaping  from 
a  height  of  1,100  feet,  and  finally  losing  them- 
selves in  the  waters  of  the  lake.  Tne  scene  is 
illuminated  at  night,  during  certain  seasons,  by 
colored  Bengal  lights,  which  produces  an  effect  of 
fairy  enchantment. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  135 

Interlachen,  so  called  from  its  situation  be- 
tween two  lakes,  Brienz  and  Thun,  is  surrounded 
by  high  mountain  peaks,  and  is  the  great  nucleus 
from  which  excursions  are  made  to  neighboring 
points  of  interest.  The  principal  one  of  these  is 
to  Grindelwald,  1 5  miles  by  carriage,  at  the  base  of 
the  Wetterhorn.  Here  we  took  horses  to  visit  the 
immense  glacier  which  lies  between  Mounts  Eiger 
and  Mittelberg.  This  huge  mass  of  ice  is  sixty  miles 
in  extent,  and  is  tunnelled  through  a  distance  of 
1 50  yards  leading  to  an  ice  grotto ;  here,  in  the 
weird,  blue  reflection  of  the  crystal  walls,  we  found 
the  strangely  incongruous  presence  of  two  witch- 
like  crones,  who,  for  a  small  coin,  crooned  their 
monotonous  ditties  to  the  accompaniment  of  their 
twanging  lutes. 

The  Glacier,  the  accumulation  of  time  untold> 
has  cut  its  way  through  the  solid  mountain  of 
rock,  five  hundred  feet  deep,  by  means  of  what  is 
called  glacier  mills;  these  are  boulders  moved  and 
hurled  around  by  rapid  currents  with  such  velo- 
city as  in  the  course  of  time  to  cut  immense  basins 
in  the  rock.  These  excavations,  besides  formation 
of  shell  and  fragments  of  rock  showing  impressions 
of  vegetable  petrifaction',  illustrate  the  successive 
epochs  of  the  globe,  when  the  northern  hemis- 
phere was  buried  under  a  mass  of  ice,  with  only 
an  occasional  oasis  inhabited  by  animal  life  long 
since  extinct. 

Another   point  radiating  from   Interlachen   is 


A    TOUR 


Lauterbrunnen,  which  means  many  fountains,  and 
derives  its  name  from  the  number  of  streams  —  some 
twenty  in  all  —  which  fall  from  the  high  moun- 
tains into  the  depths  of  the  valley  below.  The 
principal  of  these  are  the  Falls  of  Staubach,  drop- 
ping a  distance  of  1,100  feet  in  an  unbroken  line. 
The  scene  from  below  is  surpassingly  grand;  per- 
pendicular rocks  resembling  giant  castles  with 
their  glittering  turrets  and  white-bannered  walls  ; 
towering  above  these  the  Jungfraii,  the  Monch, 
and  the  Eiger,  some  13,000  feet  high,  losing  their 
hoary  heads  in  the  eternal  clouds. 

Bern,  the  capital  of  Switzerland,  is  on  the 
river  Aar,  with  a  population  of  36,000.  The 
town  is  old  and  quaint,  with  narrow  streets,  min- 
iature and  grotesque  figures  surmounting  its 
fountains,  and  sidewalks  under  the  projections  of 
the  second  stories  of  the  houses.  Bern  takes  its 
name  from  baren  the  German  for  bear  an  animal 
which  the  aboriginal  tribes  formerly  worshipped. 
The  chief  sight  of  this  city  is  the  bear  pit,  a  gov- 
ernment institution,  where  a  number  of  these 
animals  are  kept  for  the  amusement  of  the  public. 

Fribourg  is  noted  for  its  fine  Suspension 
bridge,  and  its  Cathedral,  over  the  entrance  of 
which  is  an  alto-relievo,  in  stone,  of  the  Last 
Judgment;  the  devil  is  here  represented  weighing 
down  the  balance  on  the  side  of  the  righteous,  in 
order  that  Justice  may  add  a  preponderance  in 
the  opposite  scale.  Within  the  sacred  edifice  is 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  137 

an  organ  noted  for  the  purity  and  strength  of  its 
compass. 

Lake  Geneva  —  or  Leman  —  is  the  largest  of 
the  Swiss  lakes,  being  55  miles  long  and  from  2 
to  9  in  width.  Its  waters  are  clear,  and  of  a 
beautiful  deep  blue,  its  banks,  bordered  with  the 
high  mountain  range  of  Savoy  on  one  side,  con- 
trasting strongly  with  the  vine-covered  slopes  of 
the  opposite  shore. 

Midway  up  the  lake  is  Lausanne,  on  an  eleva- 
tion which  commands  a  fine  view.  Further  on  is 
Vevay  embosomed  in  vineyards ;  and  at  the 
eastern  extremity  is  Montreux,  noted  for  its  mild 
climate,  and  as  the  scene  of  Rousseau's  "  Nou- 
velle  Heloise."  Near  by  on  a  small  island  is  the 
celebrated  Castle  of  Chillon,  which  Byron's  poem 
has  immortalized.  Here  Bonnivard  was  confined 
for  six  years ;  the  chain  which  bound  him  to  the 
stone  pillar  of  his  donjon,  being  still  in  its 
place. 

**  Lake  Leman  lies  by  Chillon's  walls  ; 

A  thousand  feet  in  depth  below 
Its  massy  waters  meet  and  flow ; 


Below  the  surface  of  the  lake 
The  dark  vault  lies. " 


From  Montreux  we  embarked  by  steamer  for 
Geneva  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  this  romantic 
lake. 


138  A    TOUR 

Geneva  sits  enthroned  a  queen  on  the  shore 
of  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water.  The  city  is  di- 
vided by  the  river  Rhone  which  is  spanned  by 
some  of  the  finest  bridges  in  Europe.  On  a 
small  island  in  the  river  is  a  bronze  monument  to 
Jean-Jacques  Rousseau,  who  was  a  native  of 
Geneva ;  and  there  is  also  to  be  seen  an  elabo- 
rately designed  monument  to  the  Duke  of  Bruns- 
wick, who  left  his  entire  fortune  to  this  city. 
Geneva  is  celebrated  for  its  manufacture  of 
watches,  gold  ornaments,  and  exquisite  wood- 
carvings.  Among  the  many  places  of  interest 
one  should  not  fail  to  visit  are,  the  Cathedral  in 
which  Calvin  preached  for  thirty  years ;  the  villa 
of  Lord  Byron  ;  Ferney,  the  residence  of  Vol- 
taire ;  and  the  chateau  and  grave  of  Madame  de 
Stael.  It  was  in  this  chateau  she  held  her  intel- 
lectual court  where  Shelley  and  Byron  were  wont 
to  join  the  brilliant  galaxy  that  surrounded  her. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  139 


CHAPTER  XII. 

CHAMOUNI  :  MER  DE  GLACE  :  TETE  NOIR  :  GORGE  OF 
TRIENT :  SIMPLON  PASS  :  STRESSA  :  LAKE  MAG- 
GIORE  :  LAKE  LUGANO  :  BELLAGIO  :  LAKE  COMO  : 
COMO  :  ST.  GOTHARD  TUNNEL  I  BASLE. 

CHAMOUNI,  a  small  village  in  Savoy,  is  at  the 
foot  of  Mont  Blanc,  three  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  It  was  here,  among  her  native 
mountains,  that  the  familiar  strains  of  her  village 
airs  lured  poor  Linda's  wandering  feet  to  peace 
and  rest. 

In  the  village  we  found  mules  and  guides,  and 
climbing  the  mountains  over  a  narrow,  precipitous 
trail,  reached  Montanvert.  Here  we  dismounted, 
and  securing  the  services  of  an  additional  guide, 
proceeded  on  foot  to  cross  the  Mer-de-Glace —  or 
Sea  of  Ice. 

We  had  not  gone  far  when  a  blinding 
snow-storm  overtook  us,  which  added  to  the 
perils  of  our  undertaking ;  underfoot  a  sea  of  ice, 
its  surface  broken  by  innumerable  crevices,  300 
feet  in  depth,  yawning  to  engulf  us  at  every  step ; 
around  us  an  impenetrable  shroud  of  mist  and 
snow;  above,  fathomless,  illimitable  space.  For 
over  two  hours  we  groped  our  uncertain  way 


I4O  A    TOUR 

across  this  trackless  waste  of  frozen  waters,  and 
at  last  reached  the  opposite  shore.  Here  we  de- 
scended a  series  of  steps  called  the  Mauvais  Pas, 
roughly  hewn  on  the  side  of  an  almost  perpen- 
dicular rock  from  whose  eminence  we  could  look 
down  thousands  of  feet  beneath  us. 

At  the  Chapeau,  a  mountain  station,  we 
found  our  mules  awaiting  to  convey  us  to  the 
valley  below. 

By  private  conveyance  we  passed  through  the 
romantic  vale  of  Chamouni ;  over  the  Tete  Noire, 
a  wild  and  rugged  mountain  pass  ;  and  descending 
into  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  arrived  at  the  Gorge 
of  Trient.  This  is  a  stupendous  rent  in  the  rock, 
six  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  extending  a  dis- 
tance of  several  miles ;  at  the  base  of  the  chasm 
flows  a  rapid  torrent  emanating  from  distant 
glaciers,  which  rushes  madly  on  its  way,  boiling 
and  seething,  over  boulders  and  jutting  crags  that 
intercept  its  course. 

Leaving  Brieg  by  diligence,  we  crossed  the 
Alps  by  the  Simplon  Pass  over  the  military  road 
made  by  Bonaparte  for  the  passage  of  his  troops. 
Arriving  at  the  Fifth  Refuge,  one  of  the  stations 
instituted  as  places  of  shelter  for  the  wayfarer,  we 
exchanged  our  carriage  for  a  sleigh,  as  recent 
snow-storms  had  rendered  the  roads  otherwise  im- 
passable. For  a  distance  of  20  miles  we  traversed 
vast  plains  of  snow,  and  penetrated  deep  chasms 
cut  through  fallen  avalanches,  then  resuming  our 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  141 

former  mode  of  conveyance,  began  the  descent 
through  the  Gorge  of  Gondo  —  awful  in  its  sub- 
limity—  and  emerging  from  rocky  tunnels,  amid 
scenes  of  wild  and  rugged  grandeur,  we  were  sud- 
denly transferred  into  the  vine-clad  slopes  and 
balmy  air  of  sunny  Italy. 

Stressa,  on  Lake  Maggiore,  is  situated  just 
opposite  the  Borromean  Islands,  the  property  of 
Count  Borromeo.  On  Isola  Bella,  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  these  little  islands,  is  his  palace :  the  bare 
rock  having  been  metamorphosed  into  a  scene  of 
enchantment.  This  fairy  creation  is  a  series  of 
ten  terraces  adorned  with  statues,  obelisks,  and 
vases,  and  here  in  sight  of  Alpine  snows,  tropical 
flowers  bloom,  and  tea,  indigo,  citron,  and  mag- 
nolia thrive  luxuriantly. 

Sailing  through  Lake  Maggiore,  and  then  tak- 
ing a  carriage,  we  drove  over  a  delightful  road  to 
Lugano,  a  small  village  nestling  on  the  banks  of 
the  lake  under  the  beetling  shadow  of  Mt.  St. 
Salvador.  After  a  short  sojourn  here,  we  sailed 
through  Lugano,  the  smallest  and  one  of  the 
prettiest  of  the  Italian  lakes,  and  continued  our 
journey  to  Bellagio  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Como. 

Bellagio,  on  a  small  peninsula  formed  by  the 
three  arms  of  Lake  Como,  commands  from  its 
eminence  views  of  unsurpassed  beauty,  but  a  more 
extended  range  is  obtained  from  the  villa  Serbel- 
loni,  on  the  heights  above.  Embowered  in  a  rich 
luxuriance  of  tropical  growth,  this  pretty  little 


142  A    TOUR 

villa  is  almost  concealed  from  view,  but  from  its 
secluded  elevation  are  obtained  glimpses  of  the 
panorama  of  mountain  and  lake  so  vividly  por- 
trayed by  Claude  Melnotte :  "  A  deep  vale  shut 
in  by  Alpine  hills  from  the  rude  world,  near  a 
clear  lake  margined  by  fruits  of  gold  and  whisper- 
ing myrtles." 

Lake  Como,  30  miles  long  and  2^  wide,  is 
set  like  a  precious  gem  in  the  midst  of  ever-green 
hills ;  along  its  shores  are  picturesque  villas,  and 
romantic  ruins,  standing  out  from  a  dark  back- 
ground of  foliage ;  here  the  Villa  d'Este,  the  fair 
casket  that  once  enshrined  Tasso's  beautiful  Leo- 
nora, and  later  the  peaceful  refuge  of  the  unhappy 
Caroline  of  Brunswick ;  there,  the  Villa  Taglioni, 
the  lovely  home  of  the  famous  dans f use t  and 
again  the  Villa  Carlotta,  filled  with  the  master- 
pieces of  Canova  and  Thorwaldsen. 

Como,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  lake, 
has  a  population  of  25,000,  and  is  defended  by 
double  walls  and  environed  by  hills.  The  city 
has  four  gates,  one  of  which  leads  to  Milan  and  is 
a  grand  specimen  of  architectural  beauty.  In 
front  of  the  Cathedral  are  statues  of  the  elder  and 
younger  Pliny,  the  latter  having  been  born  here 
A.  D.  62. 

Taking  rail  from  Como  to  Basle  the  road 
passes  through  the  finest  of  the  Italian  and  Swiss 
scenery,  skirts  Lakes  Como,  Lugano,  Lucerne, 
Zug,  and  Zurich,  and  enters  the  Alps  through  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  143 

St.  Gothard  Tunnel.  This,  the  most  wonderful 
piece  of  engineering  in  the  world,  penetrates  the 
mountain  like  a  cork-screw,  making  four  complete 
loops  within  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  in  order  to 
attain  the  requisite  elevation,  when  it  emerges 
into  daylight  only  to  enter  again  the  main  tunnel 
which  is  nine  miles  in  length.  On  the  opposite 
side  the  road  winds  around  cliffs,  through  rocky 
gorges,  and  crosses  chasms  of  fearful  depth,  pre- 
senting a  scene  of  surpassing  grandeur. 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

FREIBURG  :  STRASBURG  :  BADEN  BADEN  I  HEIDELBERG  : 
FRANKFORT  :  MAYENCE  :  THE  RHINE  :  COLOGNE  :  AIX- 
LA-CHAPELLE  :  METZ  I  RHEIMS  :  DIJON  :  MACON  : 
LYONS. 

FROM  Basle  to  Freiburg  where  in  the  latter  city 
is  a  monument  to  Berthold  Swartz,  the  monk 
who,  it  is  claimed,  in  1320,  invented  gunpowder, 
the  rail  follows  the  Rhine,  and  skirts  the  Black 
Forest  so  intimately  associated  with  the  legends 
of  Germany. 

Strasburg,  the  principal  city  of  the  German 
provinces  of  Alsace  and  Loraine,  has  a  population 
of  105,000  and  is  noted  chiefly  for  its  wonderful 
clock,  and  its  manufacture  of  pates-de-foie-gras; 


144  A   TOUR 

this  well-known  delicacy  is  composed  of  geese- 
livers  unnaturally  enlarged  by  a  process  of  ex- 
cessive feeding.  A  singular  sight  is  that  of  the 
great  storks  standing  beside,  or  building  their 
nests  on  the  chimneys  of  many  housetops.  It 
was  in  Strasburg  that  Guttenberg  first  used  type, 
and  gave  to  the  world  one  of  the  most  useful 
of  inventions. 

The  city,  while  in  possession  of  the  French,  was 
bombarded  by  the  Prussians,  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember, 1871,  from  Kehl,  the  batteries  being 
placed  out  of  sight  of  the  French,  and  under  the 
direction  of  an  officer  stationed  on  a  high  steeple, 
who  communicated  by  telegraph  to  the  distant 
trenches. 

The  Cathedral  which  has  a  spire  470  feet  in 
height,  the  highest  in  the  world,  contains  the  cele- 
brated astronomical  clock  made  by  Schwilgue  in 
1838-1842  to  replace  a  similar  one  of  great  an- 
tiquity. At  the  hour  of  12  the  cock  crows,  the 
twelve  apostles  appear,  and  other  puppets  are  set 
in  motion. 

In  the  Church  of  St.  Thomas  is  a  fine  monu- 
ment to  Marshal  Saxe,  and  in  glass  cases  are  the 
bodies  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau  and  his  daughter, 
preserved  for  400  years. 

Baden-Baden,  the  famous  German  watering- 
place,  is  in  a  valley  on  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
Black  Forest  Along  the  banks  of  the  river  Oos 
are  shaded  avenues  for  public  resort,  leading  to 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  145 

the  Trinkhalle  whose  waters  are  sought  by  in- 
valids affected  with  gout  and  rheumatism,  and  to 
the  Conversations  Haus  formerly  the  gambling 
hall,  but  now  a  place  of  rendezvous,  where  people 
meet  to  chat  and  drink  beer,  while  listening  to 
strains  of  music  discoursed  by  a  fine  band  outside. 

A  most  delightful  excursion  from  Baden- 
Baden  is,  by  carriage,  to  the  Merkur  Tower,  situ- 
ated on  the  mountain  top  in  the  midst  of  the 
Black  Forest,  from  which  is  obtained  an  extended 
view  of  the  forest  and  adjacent  mountains.  En 
route  one  passes  the  New  Castle  founded  1,100 
years  ago,  at  present  the  summer  residence  of  the 
Grand  Duke,  the  picturesque  ruins  of  an  old 
Roman  castle,  and  further  on  the  fantastic  Felsen, 
or  rocks, .  in  form  somewhat  resembling  pulpits, 
where  legend  avers  an  angel  once  discoursed  from 
one  of  them,  the  devil  from  the  other ;  which  of 
the  two  succeeded  in  obtaining  the  greater  num- 
ber of  disciples,  tradition  revealeth  not. 

Heidelberg,  so  celebrated  for  its  Castle  and 
University,  is  situated  on  the  Neckar,  and  has  a 
population  of  25,000.  The  Castle  is  on  an  eleva- 
tion commanding  a  fine  view  of  town  and  river ; 
it  is  partly  a  ruin,  half  palace  and  half  fortress,  and 
is  surrounded  by  charming  grounds.  In  its  cellar  is 
shown  the  great  Heidelberg  Tun,  with  a  capacity 
equivalent  to  the  measure  of  283,000  bottles  of 
wine  :  in  order  to  realize  the  size  of  this  monster 
cask,  one  must  climb  to  its  top,  by  means  of  a 


146  A    TOUR 

ladder,  and  standing  upon  its  broad  surface  look 
downward  to  the  stone  floor  beneath.  In  the 
same  room  is  a  wooden  effigy  of  the  court  fool 
Porkes,  who  never  went  to  bed  sober,  his  mod- 
erate allowance  being  18  bottles  per  diem. 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Ghost  is  an  old  and 
•quaint  structure,  and  is  divided  by  a  partition 
through  the  middle,  which  separates  the  Protest- 
ant from  the  Catholic  services,  held  under  the 
same  roof. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Heidel- 
berg is  a  building  where,  once  a  week,  the  stu- 
dents repair  to  settle  their  quarrels  by  means  of 
duels  fought  with  swords.  These  duels  are  as 
much  an  institution  of  the  University  as  is  the 
scholastic  course,  and  "honorable  scars  "  thus  ob- 
tained are  the  object  of  the  students'  fondest  am- 
bition. In  order  that  these  wounds  may  be  worn 
In  open  view  upon  the  face,  the  body  is  protected 
by  padding,  while  the  eyes  are  shielded  by  iron 
goggles ;  a  surgeon  is,  of  course,  in  attendance, 
whose  duty  it  is  to  prevent  the  combat  from  re- 
sulting seriously. 

Frankfort-on-the-Maine,  with  a  population  of 
138,000,  was  formerly  a  free  city  of  Germany,  but 
was  annexed  to  the  Kingdom  of  Prussia,  October 
8th,  1866.  It  is  a  very  ancient  city,  having  in 
794  been  the  residence  of  Charlemagne.  At 
present  it  is  chiefly  noted  for  its  large  banking 
houses,  and  the  great  wealth  of  its  citizens ;  it  is 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  147 

the  native  place  of  the  original  Rothschild-,  the 
house  in  Jew  street  still  standing  where  the  fa- 
mous banker  was  born.  The  present  Baron 
Rothschild  is  the  king  of  bankers,  and  the  banker 
of  kings.  The  principal  public  monuments  are 
those  of  Guttenberg,  Schiller,  and  Goethe,  the 
latter  being  born  here  August  28th,  1749.  In  a 
private  villa  is  a  statue  of  faultless  marble,  by 
Danneker,  representing  Ariadne  seated  on  a  tiger 
—  one  of  the  most  perfect  productions  of  modern 
art. 

The  Rhine  ranks  first  among  European  rivers 
in  variety  and  beauty  of  scenery,  and  in  the  his- 
torical associations  and  traditional  reminiscences 
which  haunt  its  shores.  From  Mayence  to  Co- 
logne it  winds  with  rapid  current  among  high  hills 
crowned  with  ruined  castles,  the  river's  sloping 
banks  covered  with  luxuriant  vineyards.  On  the 
right  bank  is  the  Castle  of  Johannisberg  sur- 
rounded by  the  vines  which  produce  the  most 
celebrated  of  the  Rhine  wines  distinguished  for 
their  delicate  bouquet.  Beyond,  are  the  vine- 
yards of  Steinberg  and  Rudesheim,  from  the 
former  of  which  is  obtained  wine  noted  for  its 
body,  warmth,  and  peculiar  aroma,  while  from 
the  latter,  planted  as  far  back  as  the  reign  of 
Charlemagne,  is  produced  a  wine  which,  although 
less  expensive,  is  almost  equal  in  quality  to  the 
Steinberg. 

Bingen  on  the  Rhine  is  best  known  from  the 


148  A   TOUR 

beautiful  poem  bearing  that  title :  opposite  is 
the  ruin  of  Bishop  Hatto's  Castle  of  Ehrenfels,  and 
on  an  island  in  the  river  is  the  Mouse  Tower 
where  the  wicked  Bishop  sought  refuge  when 
pursued  by  the  rats.  Besides  these  points  of  in- 
terest are,  the  Castle  of  Rheinstein,  where  is 
buried  Prince  Frederick  of  Prussia;  Pfalz,  where 
Louis  le  Debonnaire  retired,  weary  of  the  cares  of 
empire,  to  end  his  days  on  a  barren  rock  in  the 
river;  the  Lorelei  Rock  where  the  syren  sat  and 
sang,  and  combed  her  golden  locks,  luring  the  en- 
tranced boatmen  to  destruction ;  the  Castle  and 
Fortress  of  Reinfels,  an  imposing  ruin  ;  the  Castle 
of  the  Two  Brothers  whose  unnatural  love  for 
their  beautiful  sister  culminated  in  a  fatal  combat ; 
the  Castle  Stolzenfels,  the  property  of  the  King 
of  Prussia ;  the  Fort  of  Ehrenbreitstein,  opposite 
Coblentz,  so  strongly  fortified  that  it  is  styled  the 
Gibraltar  of  Germany ;  Brohl,  a  small  village, 
celebrated  for  its  tufa  stone  used  by  the  Romans 
for  coffins  on  account  of  its  property  of  absorp- 
tion, and  from  which  is  derived  the  name  of 
sarcophagus  —  or  flesh  consumer;  the  Castle  of 
Rolandseck,  built  by  Roland,  a  nephew  of  Charle- 
magne, that  he  might  overlook  the  convent  to 
which  his  bride  had  retired  from  the  world ;  and 
Drachenfels,  commandingly  situated  on  the  high- 
est hill-top,  once  the  fortress  and  watch-tower  of 
the  robbers  of  the  Rhine. 

Cologne,  the  capital  of  the  province,  and  the 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  149 

third  city  of  importance  in  the  empire,  has  a  pop- 
ulation of  145,000.  It  is  as  celebrated  for  its 
filthy  streets  and  bad  odors,  as  for  the  superior 
article  of  cologne-water  manufactured  here  by 
the  Farina  firm.  In  its  public  squares  are  bronze 
statues  of  Frederick  William  III.,  Frederick  Wil- 
liam IV.,  and  the  present  Emperor  William. 

The  Cathedral,  a  magnificent  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture,  was  commenced  in  1248  and 
only  completed  in  1880.  Behind  the  high  altar 
is  the  Chapel  of  the  Magi,  or  three  kings,  who 
came  from  the  East  to  worship,  and  bring  offer- 
ings to  the  Infant  Christ;  the  remains  of  these 
three  wise  men  —  Caspar,  Melchior,  and  Bal- 
thasar,  are,  here  inclosed  in  a  casket  of  solid  gold, 
studded  with  precious  stones,  (valued  at  $2,OOO,- 
ooo),  their  skulls,  which  are  exposed  to  view, 
bearing  crowns  of  diamonds.  In  the  church 
treasury  are  three  links  of  the  chain  with  which 
St.  Peter  was  bound,  and  a  bone  of  St.  Matthew, 
and  in  the  aisle  is  a  plain  slab  covering  the  heart 
of  Marie  de  Medici. 

In  St.  Peter's  church  is  the  font  where  Ru- 
bens, a  native  of  Cologne,  was  baptized  ;  and  here 
also  is  his  celebrated  painting  of  St.  Peter's  cruci- 
fixion, head  downwards  —  considered  by  himself 
his  chef  d  'ceuvre. 

The  Church  of  St.  Ursula  enshrines  the  bones 
of  that  saint,  with  those  of  her  11,000  virgins, 
who  were  murdered  on  this  spot  by  the  Huns  in 


I5O  A   TOUR 

450  A.  D.  on  account  of  their  refusal  to  break 
their  vows  of  chastity;  the  warlls  of  the  church 
are  covered  with  their  ghastly  relics,  arranged 
in  hideous  display.  Another  of  its  treasures  is 
one  of  the  six  porphyry  jars,  which  it  is  claimed, 
was  the  means  used  by  the  Saviour  in  the  per- 
formance of  His  first  miracle  of  changing  water 
into  wine,  at  the  marriage  feast  of  Cana. 

Aix-la-Chapelle  is  celebrated  as  having  for- 
merly been  the  city  where  the  earlier  sovereigns 
of  France  and  Germany  were  crowned  ;  it  is  noted 
for  its  highly  medicinal  waters  and  received  its 
name  from  the  chapel  erected  by  Charlemagne 
for  his  place  of  sepulture. 

The  present  Cathedral  which  adjoins  the 
chapel,  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Europe,  and  is  un- 
surpassed in  the  value  of  the  relics  it  contains, 
which  were  presented  to  Charlemagne  by  the 
Grand  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem.  These  consist  of 
the  white  gown  of  the  Virgin;  the  swathing  clothes 
of  the  Infant  Christ;  a  cloth  on  which  lay  the  body 
of  John  the  Baptist ;  the  leathern  girdle  of  Jesus ; 
part  of  the  rope  with  which  He  was  bound ;  one 
of  the  nails  that  fastened  Him  to  the  Cross;  a 
fragment  of  the  reed  with  which  they  mocked 
Him;  bones  of  the  twelve  apostles;  and  the  pulpit 
from  which  St.  Bernard  preached  the  second  cru- 
sade. Here,  encased  in  a  golden  coffin,  are  the 
remains  of  Charlemagne ;  and  also  the  marble 
coronation  chair  in  which  he  was  found,  sitting 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  151 

erect,  with  the  crown,  sceptre,  and  orb  of  his  im- 
perial state,  when  his  tomb  was  opened  by  Otho 
III.,  in  997.  This  same  chair,  crown,  orb,  and 
sceptre,  were  used  at  the  coronation  of  successive 
emperors  of  Germany,  for  centuries  afterward. 

The  Rath-haus  stands  on  the  site  of  the 
palace  where  Charlemagne  was  born,  742 ;  and 
contains  an  ancient  hall  beautifully  frescoed  with 
scenes  from  the  emperor's  life,  and  another, 
called  the  Great  Hall,  used  for  the  coronation 
ceremonies  of  emperors,  for  the  assemblage  of  the 
Diets,  and  for  other  important  celebrations.  In 
this  hall  is  a  magnificent  stained-glass  window 
representing  a  life-size  portrait  of  the  present  Em- 
peror, William  I. 

From  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Metz  the  rail  fol- 
lows, part  of  the  way,  the  Moselle  river,  whose 
scenery  much  resembles  that  of  the  Rhine ;  and 
from  this  district  is  produced  the  famous  Moselle 
wine. 

Metz,  on  the  Moselle  river,  with  a  population 
of  54,000  is  one  of  the  most  strongly  fortified 
towns  in  Europe.  Four  miles  distant  the  battles 
of  Vionville  and  Gravelotte  were  fought  August 
1 6th  and  i8th,  1870.  Metz  has  always  borne  the 
name  of  the  Virgin  Fortress,  and  can  easily  be 
defended  against  six  times  the  number  of  its  gar- 
rison ;  but  on  the  27th  of  October,  1870,  the 
whole  French  army  under  Marshal  Bazaine,  cap- 
itulated ;  and  3  marshals,  66  generals,  6,000  of* 


I$2  A    TOUR 

ficers,  and  173,000  troops  surrendered  themselves 
prisoners  of  war  to  the  Germans. 

From  Metz  to  Rheims  we  traversed  the  great 
Champagne  district,  stopping  at  Epernay,  where 
are  the  extensive  cellars  of  Moet  and  Chandon. 

The  ancient  city  of  Rheims  is  noted  not  only 
for  its  world-renowned  wines  of  Champagne,  but 
for  its  having  been  the  city  where  have  been 
crowned  nearly  all  the  kings  of  France  since 
Philip  Augustus.  It  was  here  that  the  virgin 
hand  of  Joan  of  Arc  caused  the  crown  of  reunited 
France  to  be  placed  on  the  head  of  Charles 
VII. 

In  Rheims  are  the  celebrated  champagne 
vaults  of  T.  Roederer  &  Co.  These  excavations, 
which  extend  half  a  mile  underground  to  the 
depth  of  1 20  feet,  are  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock; 
and  \vere  once  stone  quarries  which  yielded  a 
white,  chalk-like  substance  hardening  on  being 
exposed  to  the  air. 

Traversing  the  Burgundy  district,  we  stopped 
at  Dijon  and  Macon,  the  exporting  centre  of  the 
Burgundy  wines.  The  strength  and  flavor  of 
these  wines  is  partly  owing  to  the  soil  on  which 
the  grape  is  grown  —  a  reddish  strata  of  earth 
overlaying  a  white  chalky  rock.  The  wine  is 
both  red  and  white  in  color,  of  a  heavy  body, 
and  far  superior  to  the  ordinary  claret  wines ;  but 
very  little  of  the  finer  qualities  are  exported,  the 
French  preferring  to  retain  this  their  favorite  bev- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  153 

erage  in  their  own  country  even  at  the  high  rates 
demanded  for  it. 

Lyons  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhone  and 
Saone,  has  a  population  of  343,000.  It  is  the 
second  city  in  France  in  point  of  size  and  popula- 
tion, and  is  the  centre  of  extensive  manufactures. 
It  is  of  great  antiquity,  having  been  the  capital  of 
Celtic  Gaul,  and  in  modern  times  had  its  share  in 
the  great  revolution,  and  was  the  chief  scene  of 
the  Jacobite  excesses.  It  was  here  that  Bulwer 
laid  the  first  scenes  of  his  popular  play  The  Lady 
of  Lyons. 

Lyons  is  the  great  manufacturing  mart  for 
silks  and  velvets,  and  although  it  has  30,000 
weavers  of  these  fabrics,  there  are  no  large  fac- 
tories, the  work  being  done  by  small  establish- 
ments, in  each  of  which,  only  from  eight  to  twelve 
men  are  employed.  Jacquard,  the  inventor  of 
the  loom,  was  born  here. 

A  fine  view  of  the  city  and  suburban  land- 
scape is  to  be  obtained  from  the  tower  of  the 
Church  of  Notre  Dame  on  the  heights  of  Four- 
vieres.  On  this  height  is  the  Hospice  de  1'An- 
tiqueille  built  on  the  site  of  the  palace  in  which 
the  Roman  emperors  Claudius,  Germanicus,  and 
Caligula  were  born ;  and  in  the  Museum  is  a 
bronze  tablet  on  which  is  carved  a  speech  which 
Claudius  delivered  before  the  Roman  Senate,  A. 
D.  48.  Near  here  is  the  Church  of  St.  Iranee, 
erected  on  the  spot  where  Septimus  Severus,  in 


154  A   TOUR 

the  year  202  caused  the  massacre  of  20,000 
Christians  who  had  assembled  for  prayer. 

In  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  the  Revolutionary  tri- 
bunal consisting  of  Couthon,  Fondee,  and  Collot 
d'Herbois  sat  in  council,  after  the  siege  of  Lyons. 
The  latter  of  these  who  was  their  leader,  had,  when 
an  actor,  been  hissed  from  the  stage,  and  mad- 
dened at  the  insult  swore  to  be  revenged.  When 
the  opportunity  presented  itself,  he  wreaked  a  ter- 
rible vengeance  for  his  fancied  wrongs ;  the  citi- 
zens were  killed  at  the  rate  of  100  a  day ;  the 
knife  of  the  guillotine  working  too  slowly  for  the 
satisfying  of  his  cruel  impatience,  fifty  human 
beings  at  a  time,  were  tied  together  and  shot  as 
they  stood,  with  grape  and  canister.  After  2,000 
had  been  butchered  in  this  manner,  the  city  was 
razed  to  the  ground. 

From  Lyons  we  now  turned  our  faces  towards 
Paris  ;  where  after  a  brief  sojourn  we  started  forth 
again  on  our  travels,  with  Spain  as  our  point  of 
destination. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  155 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

ORLEANS:    BLOIS:    TOURS:    POITIERS:    BORDEAUX:    BAY- 

ONNE:  BIARRITZ:   BURGOS:  VALLADOLID:   MADRID: 

ESCURIAL  :     CORDOVA  :      SEVILLE  :      GRANADA  :      MAL- 
AGA :    GIBRALTAR. 

ORLEANS  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of 
France,  has  a  population  of  52,000.  In  1429  this 
city  was  besieged  by  the  English  for  six  months ; 
but  in  the  following  year  Joan  of  Arc,  in  full 
armor,  bearing  a  sacred  banner,  entered  the  city 
at  the  head  of  a  very  small  force,  bringing  sup- 
plies to  the  besieged.  In  opposition  to  the  judg- 
ment of  the  French  commanders,  she  crossed  the 
Loire  in  boats,  accompanied  only  by  a  chosen 
number  of  men,  and  attacked  the  Bastile  des  Tour- 
nelles.  Although  pierced  by  an  arrow,  she  waved 
her  banner,  scaled  the  walls  and  carried  the  fort. 
Hence  her  name  of  Maid  of  Orleans. 

The  city  has  a  fine  Cathedral,  and  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  Joan  of  Arc. 

Blois  on  the  river  Loire,  was  the  native  city 
of  Louis  XII.,  Peter  the  Divine,  and  Papin,  in- 
ventor of  the  steam  engine.  The  old  castle  over- 
looking the  river,  was  once  the  palace  of  Francis 
L,  and  of  Charles  IX.  In  it  is  a  room  where 


156  A    TOUR 

Catherine  de  Medici  consulted  the  stars  and  con- 
cocted her  most  diabolical  plots ;  foremost  among 
these  was  the  cold-blooded  murder  of  the  Duke 
of  Guise ;  when,  at  her  instigation,  her  son 
Henry  III.  placed  daggers  in  the  hands  of  his  at- 
tendants to  stab  him  as  he  entered  the  chamber. 

Napoleon  I.  dated  his  last  imperial  decree  at 
Blois  to  which  place  he  had  previously  dispatched 
the  empress  with  the  young  king  of  Rome  and 
the  remnant  of  his  court. 

Tours,  the  principal  city  of  Touraine,  has  a 
population  of  48,000.  It  was  near  here,  in  732, 
that  the  battle  took  place  between  the  Christians 
under  Charles  Martel  and  the  Mohammedans 
under  Abder  Rahman,  which  resulted  in  the 
death-blow  to  the  Koran  in  the  West. 

Poitiers  is  chiefly  noted  as  having  given  the 
name  to  the  famous  battle  fought  near  by,  be- 
tween King  John  and  the  Black  Prince,  which 
resulted  in  the  defeat  and  captivity  of  the  former. 

Bordeaux  the  second  sea-port  town  of  France, 
is  on  the  Garonne,  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
has  a  population  of  216,000.  It  has  a  quay  3 
miles  long,  surpassed  by  few  in  Europe.  The 
city  is  particularly  celebrated  for  its  extensive 
trade  in  claret  wine,  of  which  it  exports  large 
quantities  to  foreign  ports.  Among  its  most  re- 
markable edifices  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  Roman 
palace  ;  a  fine  theatre  built  by  Louis  XIV.;  and 
St.  Michael's  Church;  in  a  cave  of  the  tower,  are 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  157 

a  large  number  of  wonderfully  life-like  bodies 
standing  upright  against  the  walls ;  their  preser- 
vation being  attributed  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  in 
which  they  had  been  buried  400  years  before. 

Bayonne  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Nive 
and  Adour  rivers,  on  the  high-road  to  Spain ; 
and  is  one  of  the  most  strongly  fortified  towns  of 
France.  Its  citadel  is  considered  the  best  work 
of  Vauban  the  engineer.  From  Bayonne  the 
bayonet  derives  its  name ;  it  was  invented  in  the 
i/th  century,  originating  from  the  incident  of  a 
regiment  short  of  ammunition,  defending  itself 
against  the  Spaniards  by  means  of  long  knives 
which  they  stuck  in  the  barrels  of  their  muskets. 

Biarritz  on  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  8  miles  from 
Bayonne,  is  a  fashionable  watering-place,  and  was 
a  favorite  resort  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon  III.; 
its  mild  climate  rendering  a  sojourn  here  attrac- 
tive during  the  fall  and  winter  months.  The 
shore  is  rugged  and  wild,  with  cliffs  from  thirty 
to  forty  feet  in  height. 

After  crossing  the  Spanish  frontier  at  Irun, 
where  a  most  thorough  search  is  made  by  the 
custom-house  officials,  the  first  city  of  importance 
reached  is  Burgos,  the  former  capital  of  the  king- 
dom of  Castile.  It  is  situated  3,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  contains  30,000  inhabi- 
tants. The  streets  are  narrow  and  dirty,  and  the 
houses  high  and  inclosed  in  glass  verandas.  At 
intervals  of  1 5  minutes  throughout  the  night,  the 


158  A   TOUR 

voice  of  the  watchman  may  be  heard  in  loud  tones 
announcing  the  hour  and  the  state  of  the  weather. 
The  ladies  still  adhere  to  the  picturesque  lace 
mantilla,  and  the  graceful  fan  ;  while  the  men  in- 
variably envelope  themselves  in  the  voluminous 
folds  of  their  mantles.  Before  being  admitted 
into  a  house,  the  stranger  is  first  jealously  scanned 
through  a  grating  in  the  outer  door ;  a  custom 
having  its  origin  in  a  time  of  general  insecurity. 
The  small  donkey,  the  only  beast  of  burden  seen 
on  the  streets,  is  often  so  heavily  laden  as  to  be 
scarcely  observable  under  his  bulky  load. 

Burgos  is  celebrated  as  the  birthplace  and 
tomb  of  the  Cid,  a  Moorish  name  meaning  uncon- 
querable. This  celebrated  Spanish  hero  was  a 
great  warrior,  whose  deeds  have  been  recorded  in 
prose  and  verse  by  writers  of  all  countries  and 
periods  for  the  last  eight  centuries.  Even  after 
his  death  he  is  said  to  have  won  a  great  victory ; 
his  followers  having  secured  his  corpse  to  his  fa- 
vorite horse,  conducted  him  to  the  battle-field, 
where  the  foe,  having  heard  of  the  death  of  the 
great  leader,  were  appalled  at  sight  of  the  ghastly 
apparition,  and,  conquered  by  their  own  super- 
stitious terrors,  fled  ignominiously  from  the  field. 

Valladolid .  the  ancient  capital  of  Spain,  is  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Pisuerga  and  Esgueva  rivers, 
and  has  a  population  of  52,000.  It  was  here  that 
Christopher  Columbus,  who  gave  a  continent  to 
the  world  died, —  May  2Oth,  1506  —  in  a  small 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  159 

dimly-lighted  room,  in  a  narrow  street  of  the 
poorer  quarter  of  the  town.  Valladolid  was  the 
birthplace  of  Philip  II.  and  in  the  Cathedral  — 
one  of  the  finest  in  Spain  —  were  married,  in 
1469,  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 

Madrid,  the  capital  of  Spain,  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  kingdom,  in  a  barren,  rocky  plain  2,200 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Owing  to  its 
situation,  the  city  is  exposed  to  cold  winds  and 
the  climate  is  particularly  unhealthy.  Madrid 
has  400,000  inhabitants  and  though  of  very  an- 
cient origin,  has,  owing  to  its  handsome  buildings 
and  wide  streets,  a  modern  appearance.  .  The 
most  conspicuous  public  ornaments  are,  the 
statues  of  Spain's  gifted  sons,  Murillo  the  artist, 
and  Cervantes  the  author  of  Don  Quixote ;  and 
of  Philip  IV.  on  horseback  surrounded  by  the 
early  kings  ;  besides  the  fountains  of  Neptune  and 
Sibyl.  The  Park,  of  an  afternoon  is  thronged 
with  the  elite  driving  out  in  their  elegant  equi- 
pages, among  them  that  of  the  Royal  family,  in 
which  is  the  little  Infanta  accompanied  by  her  at- 
tendants. 

The  Royal  Palace  is  an  immense  structure 
built  of  granite,  and  covering,  with  its  surround- 
ings, 80  acres  of  ground.  Favored  with  invita- 
tions from  the  Palace  we  attended  the  Christening 
of  the  Royal  Infant  of  Spain.  The  ceremony 
was  performed  in  the  Royal  Chapel  by  a  Car- 
dinal, assisted  by  the  highest  dignitaries  of  the 


160  A    TOUR 

Church ;  and  was  attended  by  members  of  the 
Royal  household  and  cabinet,  generals  of  the 
army,  and  foreign  ambassadors  in  full  uniform, 
wearing  their  numerous  decorations. 

In  the  Royal  Picture  Gallery  are  several  hun- 
dred paintings,  among  them  those  of  Velasquez, 
master  of  the  Spanish  school,  whose  best  work  is 
the  portrait  of  ^Esop  ;  here  also  are  many  of  Mu- 
rillo's  original  works  —  the  Conception,  and  the 
Infant  St.  John  being  among  the  finest.  Of  the 
productions  of  modern  Spanish  artists  are,  the 
Bell  of  Huesca,  the  Death  of  Lucrezia  Borgia, 
Defending  the  Pass,  and  the  Death  of  Seneca. 

In  the  Naval  Museum  are  the  compass  of  Co- 
lumbus and  the  original  chart  with  which  he 
demonstrated  his  discovery  of  a  new  continent. 
The  armory  contains  the  swords  and  coats  of  mail 
of  Columbus,  Ferdinand,  and  Cortez,  besides  those 
of  Boabdil  and  other  Moorish  kings. 

The  Amphitheatre  where  bull-fights  take  place 
is  built  of  stone  and  brick,  with  a  capacity  for  seat- 
ing 16,500  people;  this  barbarous  entertainment 
being  held  Sunday  afternoons  from  the  hours  of 
2  to  5.  The  bull-fight  which  we  witnessed  was  an 
especially  grand  affair  given  in  celebration  of  the 
birth  of  the  Royal  child.  At  the  hour  specified, 
the  streets  were  thronged,  and  the  vast  building 
crowded  to  its  utmost.  The  entertainment  was 
inaugurated  by  a  grand  procession  entering  the 
arena,  composed  of  all  who  were  to  take  part, 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  l6l 

dressed  in  gay  and  fantastic  costumes,  glittering 
with  gold  and  silver.  After  saluting  the  king  and 
audience,  two  heralds  advanced  from  among  them 
and  received  from  the  governor  the  large  iron  key 
with  which  they  proceeded  to  open  the  gates 
separating  the  arena  from  the  inclosure  in  which 
the  restive  animals  were  confined.  One  at  a  time 
the  bulls  were  admitted.  The  animal  entered  the 
circle,  evidently  bewildered  at  the  novelty  of  his 
situation,  and  evincing  no  sign  of  his  natural  belli- 
cose propensity.  Then  came  the  matadores  who, 
flourishing  their  blood-red  mantles  in  his  face,  and 
launching  their  bandarillos  —  or  barbed  arrows  — 
into  his  sides,  soon  succeeded  into  goading  him 
into  mad  fury.  With  a  low  roar  like  the  sound  of 
distant  thunder,  the  bull  rushed  upon  his  assail- 
ants, who,  to  escape  his  attack,  performed  mar- 
vellous feats  of  agility,  now  dodging  from  beneath 
his  very  horns,  and  again  casting  themselves  on 
the  ground  in  his  path,  that  unable  to  make  so 
sudden  a  halt  in  his  mad  career  the  animal  should 
pass  him  by  ;  and  —  more  wonderful  than  all  — 
quickly  planting  a  spear  in  the  ground,  by  its  aid 
vaulting  clear  over  the  beast  to  the  opposite  side. 
Next  the  Picadors,  or  mounted  men,  entered 
upon  the  scene,  bearing  long  spears,  their  sole 
mode  of  defence  against  the  furious  onslaught  of 
the  now  thoroughly  aroused  and  pain-maddened 
bull.  Then  the  hideous  interest  of  the  spectacle 
became  intensified.  The  wretched  horses,  with 


162  A   TOUR 

one  eye  bandaged  in  order  that  they  might  not  be 
fully  conscious  of  their  peril,  vainly  essayed  to 
elude  the  repeated  attacks  of  the  bull,  flying 
wildly  around  the  ring,  their  entrails  protruding 
from  their  bleeding  wounds  and  trailing  in  the 
dust  as  they  ran.  By  this  time  the  bull,  having 
overcome  his  assailants,  and  being  thoroughly  ex- 
hausted from  loss  of  blood,  stood  at  bay  with  re- 
laxing muscles  but  undaunted  eye,  as  a  matador 
entered  the  arena  for  the  final  scene  of  the  bar- 
barous sport  —  the  Blow  of  Mercy.  He  ap- 
proached on  foot,  and  armed  only  with  a  sharp 
dagger,  confronted  the  bull,  and  as  the  animal 
lowered  his  head  for  a  last  attack,  the  daring  mat- 
ador plunged  the  blade  into  his  neck  adroitly  and 
instantaneously  severing  the  main  artery. 

On  this  occasion,  these  fearful  scenes  were  re- 
peated until  no  less  than  six  bulls  and  seven  horses 
had  been  killed  and  several  men  wounded. 

The  present  king  and  queen,  although  much 
averse  to  bull-fights,  are  compelled  to  sanction 
and  even  yield  to  the  requirements  of  custom  and 
prejudice,  and  attend  these  national  exhibitions. 

The  Escurial,  40  miles  from  Madrid,  is  an  im- 
mense granite  building  comprising  palace,  tomb, 
and  convent.  It  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  Spain, 
and  was  built  by  Philip  II.  as  a  royal  vault  for 
kings  and  mothers  of  kings.  Over  the  entrance 
are  large  statues  of  David,  Solomon,  Jehosha- 
phat,  Hezekiah,  Manasseh,  and  Josiah.  The  palace 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  163 

apartments  are  hung  with  the  finest  of  modern 
Spanish  tapestry,  the  chapel  contains  pulpits  of 
the  most  exquisite  Mexican  onyx,  and  over  the 
altar  is  the  largest  round  topaz  in  the  world.  The 
vault  beneath,  whose  steps  and  walls  are  of  por- 
phyry and  polished  stones,  is  of  a  circular  form, 
the  granite  coffins  arranged  on  shelves  in  chrono- 
logical order  bearing  the  names  of  the  occupants 
engraved  in  gilt  letters,  several  vacant  places 
awaiting  the  living.  Outside  this  receptacle  for 
dead  royalty,  but  still  within  the  church,  lies  all 
that  remains  of  the  young  and  lovely  Mercedes, 
first  wife  of  Alfonso,  who  having  been  denied  the 
motherhood  of  a  son,  is  debarred  the  honors  of 
sepulture  within  the  precincts  of  the  royal 
circle. 

Cordova,  with  a  population  of  50,000,  was 
once  the  principal  city,  and  capital  of  the  Moors, 
and  contained  at  one  time  1,000,000  inhabitants, 
and  300  mosques.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
two  Senecas,  and  of  Lucan  the  poet. 

The  Cathedral,  formerly  a  mosque,  still  retains 
its  Moorish  style  of  architecture,  and  is  exceed- 
ingly beautiful  and  picturesque.  It  has  850  pil- 
lars of  jasper,  porphyry,  and  every  variety  of 
marble ;  the  arches  and  ceilings  are  of  the  most 
exquisite  mosaic,  and  everywhere  are  fine  carv- 
ings inscribed  with  quotations  from  the  Koran. 
In  the  south  end  of  the  edifice  is  the  Zancarron, 
or  Moorish  sanctuary  of  octagon  shape,  highly 


1 64  A   TOUR 

ornamented,  and  canopied  with  a  scallop  shell  cut 
from  a  solid  block  of  marble  1 5  feet  in  breadth. 

In  Cordova  is  manufactured  a  preserve  made 
from  the  orange-blossom  —  some  200  blossoms 
being  required  to  the  pound, —  which  is  delicate 
in  flavor,  and  grateful  to  the  taste.  The  great  in- 
dustry of  the  place  is  the  pickling  of  olives ;  the 
process  being  to  soak  the  fruit  in  a  brine  impreg- 
nated with  anise-seed  and  bay  leaves. 

Seville,  on  the  Guadalquivir,  is  claimed  to 
have  been  founded  by  Hercules,  captured  by 
Caesar,  and  subsequently  in  711,  by  the  Moors. 
It  was  at  one  time  the  centre  of  science  and  art, 
but  declined  rapidly  after  having  been  conquered 
by  the  Christians.  Seville  was  the  birthplace  of 
the  Emperors  Trajan  and  Theodosius ;  also  of 
Magellan  the  famous  navigator,  Las  Casas  the 
defender  of  the  Indians,  and  Lope  de  Vega 
the  father  of  Spanish  comedy.  It  was  here  in 
1480  the  Inquisition  was  established;  the  Square 
still  existing,  where  the  grand  tribunal  met,  passed 
judgment,  and  dispatched  their  victims.  The 
streets  are  crooked,  and  some  of  them  barely  six 
feet  in  width ;  the  Plazas  are  bordered  with 
palm  and  date-trees,  and  the  surrounding  country 
is  luxuriant  with  growth  of  olive  and  orange,  cac- 
tus and  aloe. 

The  Alcazar  or  Palace,  of  Moslem  architec- 
ture, was  the  residence  of  the  Moorish  and  Catho- 
lic kings  of  Spain.  On  one  side  of  the  court  once 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  165 

stood  the  throne  before  which  were  yearly 
brought  one  hundred  of  the  most  beautiful  virgins 
of  Seville,  from  among  whom  the  Moorish  monarch 
might  select  his  wives.  Opening  from  the  op- 
posite side  is  the  Hall  of  Ambassadors,  where  Don 
Pedro  not  only  killed  his  own  brother,  but  also 
the  former  King  of  Granada,  Abu  Said,  to  whom  he 
had  promised  protection,  and  whom,  after  feasting 
and  flattering,  he  assassinated  and  robbed  of  his 
jewels;  among  the  latter  was  the  heart-shaped 
ruby  which  he  afterwards  presented  to  the  Black 
Prince,  and  is  now  conspicuous  in  the  crown 
of  England.  On  the  floor  above  is  the  private 
chapel  where  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  gave  audi- 
ence to  Christopher  Columbus.  Adjoining  the 
beautiful  gardens  of  the  Palace  are  immense  baths, 
where  Maria  de  Padilla  and  her  attendants  dis- 
ported in  the  presence  of  the  king. 

In  the  Cathedral  are  many  of  Murillo's  finest 
works ;  and  a  slab  on  the  floor  marks  the  spot 
where  is  buried  Ferdinand  son  of  Columbus,  — 
the  body  of  the  great  discoverer  having  been  re- 
moved to  Havana.  Adjoining  the  church  is  a 
library  containing  the  log-book  of  Columbus,  with 
charts  indicating  his  route  and  the  distance  trav- 
elled each  day ;  also  a  history  of  the  world  with 
his  marginal  notes  and  corrections. 

In  the  Bourse,  or  Exchange,  are  the  archives 
of  Spanish  South  America,  with  the  correspond- 
ence of  Cortez  and  Pizarro. 


1 66  A   TOUR 

Among  other  places  are,  the  studio,  and 
house  where  Murillo  died  ;  that  called  the  House 
of  Pontius  Pilate, —  a  fac-simile  of  the  one  in  Jeru- 
salem; and  the  home  of  Figaro,  the  barber  of  Sev- 
ille, the  scene  and  subject  of  one  of  the  prettiest 
of  modern  operas. 

At  the  Escuela  de  Bailes,  or  Dance-hall,  we 
witnessed  the  Spanish  Fandango  danced  in  all  its 
originality  and  boldness. 

Granada  is  in  a  beautiful  plain  on  the  banks  of 
the  Darro  near  the  snow-capped  range  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada.  Its  present  population  is  76,000, 
not  one-tenth  of  what  it  was  when  taken  from  the 
Moors  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 

The  Alhambra,  or  acropolis  of  Granada,  is  on 
the  top  of  a  high  hill  overlooking  the  city.  It 
was  built  600  years  ago  by  the  Moors ;  is  sur- 
rounded by  walls  and  towers,  and  was  at  one 
time  capable  of  accommodating  40,000  soldiers. 
This  palace  was  to  them  a  terrestrial  paradise,  and 
it  was  here  they  made  their  last  stand  for  empire 
in  Spain.  Though  somewhat  faded  and  damaged 
by  the  ravages  of  time  and  war,  it  still  retains 
much  of  its  former  grandeur;  and  resembles 
more  an  abode  fitted  for  fabled  queens  of  Love 
and  Beauty,  than  a  human  habitation.  Its  ceil- 
ings are  of  honey-combed  stalactite,  of  blue,  red, 
and  gold,  and  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl;  the 
walls  of  stucco  resemble  fine  lace-work  of  various 
intricate  designs  inscribed  with  quotations  from 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  l6/ 

the  Koran  ;  and  the  floors  and  columns  are  of  ala- 
baster and  marble.  The  most  beautiful  and  in- 
teresting apartments  of  the  palace  are,  the  Hall  of 
Ambassadors  where  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  re- 
ceived Columbus,  prior  to  his  departure  for  the 
great  voyage  of  discovery;  beneath  it,  the  dun- 
geon, and  the  balcony  from  which  Boabdil  when 
a  child  was  lowered  in  a  basket,  by  his  mother, 
and  sent  beyond  reach  of  his  cruel  father ;  the 
Repose  Room  where  the  Sultan  rested  with  his 
Sultana  after  the  bath,  listening  to  strains  of  music 
from  the  balconies  above  ;  the  Toilet-room,  in  one 
corner  of  which  is  a  perforated  marble  slab  in  the 
floor,  over  whose  ascending  perfumes  the  Sultana 
stood  while  her  attendants  ministered  to  her  toilet; 
the  Hall  of  Two  Sisters,  whence  the  royal  couple  is- 
sued their  orders ;  the  Hall  of  Justice  where  the 
nobles  received  sentence  ;  the  Court  of  Lions,  so 
called  from  its  fountain  supported  by  twelve 
huge  lions,  surrounded  by  136  marble  pillars; 
and  the  Hall  of  Abencerrages  where  Boabdil 
killed  thirty-six  of  the  tribe  of  that  name ;  the 
marble  fountain  flowing  with  their  blood.  This 
massacre  was  caused  by  a  report  made  by  some 
of  the  rival  tribe  Zegri,  to  Boabdil,  that  his  beau- 
tiful queen  was  seen  in  the  garden  in  the  embrace 
of  the  chief  of  the  Abencerrages.  The  queen, 
dreading  the  king's  vengeful  wrath  appealed  for 
protection  to  four  Christian  knights,  who  came, 
disguised  as  Moors,  vanquished  the  Zegri  in  a 


I 68  A   TOUR 

hand-to-hand  fight,  and  compelled  them  to  con- 
fess their  villainous  plot  in  the  presence  of  the 
king  and  assembled  people.  In  the  Tower  of 
Comares  is  the  room  in  which  Washington  Irving 
wrote  his  fine  description  of  the  Alhambra. 

The  Generalife,  on  an  adjacent  hill  was  the 
summer  palace  of  the  Moorish  kings,  and  in  it  are 
portraits  of  Moslem  and  Christian  sovereigns.  In 
the  terraced  gardens  of  this  palace  are  sparkling 
fountains,  and  perpetual  bloom  of  oleander,  pome- 
granate, lime  and  orange. 

From  an  elevated  rock  called  the  Seat  of  the 
Moor,  can  be  seen  the  bridge  where  Columbus 
was  overtaken  by  the  king's  messenger,  while 
he  was  on  his  way,  disappointed  and  dejected,  to 
submit  his  disdained  projects  to  the  Court  of 
France.  Near  by  is  the  point  called  the  Last 
Sigh  of  the  Moor,  whence  Boabdil  looked  back 
and  wept  at  the  city  he  had  lost,  and  was  re- 
proved by  his  mother's  sarcasm  :  "  you  do  well  to 
weep  as  a  woman  over  what  you  could  not  defend 
as  a  man." 

The  chief  object  of  interest  in  the  town  itself 
is  the  Cathedral  whose  highly  ornamented  interior 
contains  the  magnificent  marble  tombs  of  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  and  those  of  their  daughter, 
Jane  the  Demented,  and  her  husband  Philip  I. 

In  the  Treasury  is  the  sword  of  Ferdinand, 
and  the  flag  he  carried  at  the  siege  of  Granada : 
also  Isabella's  crown  and  sceptre,  and  the  golden 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  169 

casket  which  once  contained  the  jewels  she  caused 
to  be  sold  to  enable  Columbus  to  sail  on  his  voy- 
age of  discovery. 

The  Convent  of  Cartouja,  two  miles  from 
Granada  was  once  the  abode  of  an  order  of  monks 
who  were  allowed  to  speak  only  once  a  week ; 
and  if  by  chance  they  met  one  another  they 
crossed  themselves  piously,  with  the  adjuration  : 
"brother  we  must  die!"  This  order  has  been 
suppressed ;  but  the  edifice  still  exists  in  good 
condition.  The  Chapel  walls  are  of  a  variety  of 
exquisite  marbles  brought  from  the  Snow  moun- 
tains, the  doors  and  cabinets  are  of  ebony,  ivory, 
and  tortoise  shell ;  and  set  in  the  altar  are  two 
immense  agates  three  feet  each,  in  circumference. 

Malaga,  a  seaport  town  of  Andalusia,  founded 
by  the  Carthagenians,  and  successively  under  the 
rule  of  the  Romans,  Goths,  and  Moors,  is  situated 
on  a  mountain-girded  bay ;  and  above  the  town 
towers  the  ruin  of  an  old  Roman  castle.  Malaga 
is  celebrated  for  its  grapes,  figs,  oranges,  lemons, 
raisins,  wine,  and  olive  oil,  which  are  exported  in 
large  quantities  to  the  United  States.  The  man- 
ufacture of  olive  oil  is  most  primitive  in  its 
process ;  the  fruit  is  picked  in  December,  when 
very  ripe,  and  crushed  between  two  large  stones 
turned  by  a  cow  or  mule ;  it  is  next  placed  in 
straw  baskets  and  the  oil  forced  out  by  heavy 
pressure,  after  which  it  is  poured  into  large  jars  to 
settle  and  refine. 


170  A    TOUR 

Gibraltar,  an  English  possession  on  a  penin- 
sula in  the  extreme  south  of  Spain,  contains  a 
population  of  25,000,  of  whom  6,000  belong  to 
the  army. 

The  Rock  so  celebrated  as  the  strongest  fort- 
ress in  the  world,  rises  above  the  town  1,400  feet 
and  extends  to  the  end  of  the  peninsula,  a  dis- 
tance of  four  miles.  Heavily  mounted  with  guns 
on  solid  fortifications,  its  strongest  side  is  that 
facing  Spain.  Within  the  solid  rock  have  been 
cut  to  a  great  height,  roads  and  galleries;  while 
nothing  is  visible  from  the  exterior  but  the  port- 
holes through  which  the  muzzles  of  the  guns 
protrude. 

On  the  top  is  the  signal  station  from  which  is 
a  fine  view  of  sea  and  land.  On  the  side  of  the 
hill,  midway  between  the  fort  and  the  town,  is  St. 
Michael's  stalactite  cave ;  and  near  by,  numerous 
monkeys  infest  the  crevices  of  the  rock,  and  leap, 
with  chatter  and  grimace  from  cliff  to  cliff. 

The  Rock,  which  overlooks  the  bay,  is  a  thorn 
in  the  side  of  Spain,  and  serves  England  as  a 
coaling  station  for  its  India-bound  steamers;  it 
by  no  means  commands  the  strait,  however,  as 
at  this  point  it  is  13  miles  wide,  and  the  guns 
could  not  carry  half  that  distance. 

Ten  miles  from  Gibraltar,  are  the  extensive 
Cork  forests  of  Spain,  where  the  bark  is  annually 
gathered  and  shipped  in  large  quantities  to  all 
parts  of  the  world. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD. 


From  Gibraltar  we  crossed  the  strait  and  after 
an  exceedingly  rough  passage  reached  the  north- 
ern shores  of  Africa. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

TANGIERS  :      ORAN  :      BLIDAH  :     ALGIERS  :      MARSEILLES  ! 
CHATEAU    D'lF  :    TOULON  :    NICE  :    MONACO. 

TANGIERS,  a  seaport  town  of  Morocco,  has  a 
population  of  10,000.  It  presents  from  the  sea  a 
beautiful  aspect,  its  white  houses  rising  in  ter- 
races, one  above  another ;  but  a  closer  proximity 
shows  the  city  in  a  disgustingly  filthy  condition ; 
its  narrow  streets  swarming  with  beggars,  ragged, 
crippled  and  diseased. 

The  women  are  enveloped  in  a  voluminous, 
shapeless,  white  garment,  their  faces,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  eye,  completely  concealed  from 
view.  The  men,  who  are  very  dark  of  com- 
plexion, wear  loose  white  burnooses,  between  the 
opening  folds  of  which  is  occasionally  seen  the 
gleam  of  their  silver  mounted  daggers ;  their  bare 
legs  terminating  in  yellow  leather  slippers,  and 
their  heads  incased  in  a  red  fez,  over  which  is 
wound  the  many  folds  of  the  conventional  white 
turban. 


A   TOUR 


The  bazaar  shops  are  generally  about  ten 
feet  square;  here  the  Moor  sits  cross-legged,  sur- 
rounded by  his  wares,  and  transacts  business  from 
the  door;  the  chief  article  of  commodity  being 
that  fine  grade  of  leather  which  takes  its  name 
from  the  country. 

The  city  contains  three  mosques,  before  enter- 
ing any  one  of  which  the  Moor  must  first  wash 
his  feet  in  a  stone  trough  at  the  threshold.  From 
the  top  of  each  minaret,  at  sunrise,  noon,  and 
sunset,  a  flag  is  raised,  and  the  faithful  called  by 
voice  to  prayer. 

The  Prison  is  simply  a  dungeon  with  a  dirt 
floor,  light  and  communication  being  obtained 
only  through  an  aperture  in  the  door.  The 
prisoners  are  not  only  chained  and  beaten  unmer- 
cifully, but  are  left  by  the  government  to  starve, 
unless  food  or  money  is  furnished  them  by  private 
charities. 

The  Market-place  is  an  open  space  outside  of 
the  city  walls  which  on  market  days  is  a  scene 
of  great  activity  and  bustle ;  hundreds  of  camels 
and  donkeys  loaded  with  dates  and  other  articles 
of  merchandise  from  the  interior,  are  grouped 
around ;  the  camels  kneeling  while  their  owners 
relieve  them  of  their  burthens,  and  spread  their 
wares  on  the  ground  before  them.  In  the  midst 
of  this  motley  throng,  wild,  half-naked  men  from 
the  Atlas  mountains  —  religious  fanatics — dance 
their  uncouth  measures,  writhing,  and  foaming  at 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  173 

the  mouth,  while  they  strike  their  closely-shaved 
heads  with  sharp  instruments,  cutting,  bruising, 
and  mangling  them  to  a  mass  of  bleeding,  quiver- 
ing flesh,  apparently  unconscious  of  the  self-in- 
flicted pain.  Here  the  snake-charmers  ply  their 
singular  avocation,  displaying  their  perfect  con- 
trol over  the  movements  of  the  huge  reptiles  to  the 
sound  of  their  peculiar  instruments.  A  portion 
of  the  market-place  is  devoted  to-  the  sale  of 
slaves;  the  auctioneer  standing  in  the  midst  of 
the  wretched  creatures,  cries  in  a  loud  voice  for 
the  highest  bidder ;  after  the  auction,  those  re- 
maining unsold  are  driven  through  the  streets  to 
be  sold  for  whatever  price  they  may  bring. 

A  man  who  wields  a  wonderful  degree  of 
power  in  Morocco  without  being  absolutely  in  of- 
ficial authority,  is  the  Prince  Hadj  Abdes  Salem, 
or  the  "  Saint,"  as  he  is  called,  a  direct  descendant 
of  Mohammed,  who  is  not  only  worshipped  by  the 
people,  but  to  whom  even  the  Emperor  of  Mor- 
occo must  kneel  for  permission  before  assuming 
office.  In  person  he  is  a  man  of  apparently  45 
years  of  age,  weighing  some  250  Ibs.,  and  so  dark 
of  complexion  as  to  be  almost  black ;  in  dress  he 
is  plain,  distinguished  from  other  Moors  only  by 
the  green  fez  which  indicates  a  descendant  of  Mo- 
hammed. The  Saint  has  a  decided  partiality  for 
the  English  and  Americans,  perhaps  induced 
by  the  influence  of  his  American  wife,  who  visit- 
ing the  country  as  governess  to  an  English 


174  A  TOUR 

family,  charmed  the  Moslem  by  her  beauty  and 
grace,  and  consented  to  accept  the  dubious  honor 
of  being  his  favorite  wife.  In  the  suburbs  she 
dwells  in  her  own  private  residence,  while  in  the 
town  is  the  prince's  harem,  consisting  of  several 
hundred  women,  which  is  jealously  guarded  by 
a  large  number  from  among  his  many  thousand 
slaves. 

A  cordial  invitation  was  extended  us  by  the 
prince  to  attend  a  nine  days'  boar  hunt,  escorted 
by  his  suite  and  attendants  numbering  some 
2,000  men  ;  the  slaves  attending  the  hunt  in  the 
capacity  of  beaters. 

Only  the  ladies  of  our  party  were  admitted 
into  the  harems.  One  of  these  is  worthy  of  de- 
scription. The  entrance  was  through  a  court- 
yard whose  gates  were  guarded  by  black  eunuchs. 
The  reception-room  was  a  fair  example  of  the 
oriental  style  j  the  walls  were  hung  in  draperies 
of  silk  and  gold  tissues  ;  the  floor  covered  with 
costly  Persian  rugs  ;  while  scattered  around  were 
cushions  and  divans  of  rare  stuffs  and  inviting 
shape,  suggestive  of  ease  and  repose  ;  and  over 
all  the  reflection  of  the  vast  mirrors  lent  additional 
brilliancy  to  the  scene.  Here  reclining  in  various 
graceful  attitudes,  were  the  beauties  of  the  harem; 
fair  Georgians,  lovely  Circassians  and  dark-eyed 
Persians,  gorgeously  apparelled,  and  decked  in 
resplendent  jewels.  Refreshments — tea,  sherbets, 
and  comfits  —  were  served  in  delicate  porcelain, 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  1/5 

by  kneeling  slaves,  incense  burned  and  highly- 
aromatic  perfumes  proffered. 

At  Tangiers  we  took  steamer  coasting  along 
the  African  shore ;  and  after  touching  at  various 
ports  of  minor  importance  in  Morocco,  we  landed 
at  Oran  in  Algeria. 

Oran,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same 
name,  contains  some  50,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
almost  surrounded  by  high  hills  on  the  summits 
of  which  are  strong  fortifications  whence  mag- 
nificent views  are  obtained  of  the  harbor  and  ad- 
jacent country. 

The  rail  from  Oran  to  Algiers,  260  miles,  tra- 
verses a  fertile  and  productive  valley  20  miles  in 
width,  and  one  is  surprised  at  the  richness  of  the 
soil,  and  the  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation  ;  here, 
in  the  month  of  December,  the  climate  resembles 
that  of  spring ;  and  the  large  vineyards,  recently 
planted,  promise  great  future  revenues  to  France. 

Blidah  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Atlas  mountains, 
its  streets  gradually  sloping  for  miles  into  the 
Metidja  plain.  Although  located  in  the  fairest 
portion  of  Algeria,  with  a  mild  and  balmy  cli- 
mate, and  tropical  growth  of  vegetation,  snow 
covers  the  mountain  peaks  which  overlook  the  city. 
In  the  Tivoli  Gardens,  where  the  band  of  African 
Chasseurs  discourses  fine  music,  throngs  of  the 
military  and  citizens  resort  in  the  cool  of  the 
evening  to  saunter  among  the  groves  of  date,  palm 
and  banana. 


176  A  TOUR 

The  French  purchase  many  of  their  horses  for 
cavalry  service  in  Blidah ;  the  stables  containing 
several  hundred  of  the  finest  animals  of  pure 
Arabian  stock.  They  are  constantly  bought 
from  the  Arabs  who  obtain  as  high  as  from  $500 
to  $1,500  apiece,  according  to  color,  the  sorrel 
being  most  highly  esteemed. 

The  Gorge  of  Chiffa,  ten  miles  from  Blidah  by 
carriage,  is  a  rent  in  the  Atlas  mountains,  through 
which  flows  the  river  of  the  same  name ;  it  is 
wild  and  rugged,  and  is  considered  the  finest 
mountain  scenery  of  all  Algeria. 

In  a  narrow  ravine  leading  from  the  Gorge  is 
the  Monkey  brook,  where  innumerable  apes  and 
monkeys  leap  from  rock  to  rock  and  from  branch 
to  branch  uttering  their  discordant  accents.  Al- 
though permitting  a  near  proximity,  these  animals 
are  difficult  to  capture  owing  to  their  intuitive 
suspicion  of  mankind  ;  their  less  wary  progeny 
alone  falling  sometimes  in  the  snares  laid  to  en- 
trap them. 

Algiers,  the  capital  of  Algeria,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  60,000.  Its  white,  flat-roofed  houses, 
rising  one  above  another  on  the  sloping  hill-side, 
present  a  singularly  oriental  aspect.  This  city 
was  for  many  years  the  terror  of  the  civilized 
world ;  it  was  the  headquarters  of  pirates  whose 
ravages  extended  over  the  Mediterranean  ;  Chris- 
tians of  all  nationalities  being  captured  by  them 
and  cast  into  slavery.  The  modern  part  of  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  1 77 

city  is  that  nearest  the  sea,  it  has  wide  streets 
with  handsome  buildings  —  the  second  stories 
projecting  over  the  sidewalks — and  arcades  roofed 
with  glass,  offering  shelter  in  inclement  weather. 

The  Boulevard  de  la  Republique  is  a  mag- 
nificent avenue  built  sixty  feet  above  the  water 
level,  on  arches  of  stone  masonry,  and  extends 
several  miles  along  the  bay.  It  is  inclosed  on  one 
side  by  the  principal  mosques,  hotels  and  public 
squares,  and  on  the  other  by  a  balustrade  with 
occasional  openings  from  which  steps  or  roads 
lead  down  to  the  water's  edge. 

The. old  or  Arab  part  of  the  town  is  on  the 
rise  of  the  hill,  above  the  modern  or  French  por- 
tion ;  the  streets  which  are  very  narrow  and 
crooked,  form  an  intricate  net-work,  their  pre- 
cipitous ascent  broken  by  a  series  of  stone  stairs, 
the  Rue  de  la  Kasba  being  simply  a  continuation 
of  497  steps.  The  houses,  which  are  very  high, 
project  from  the  upper  story,  almost  meeting 
mid-air.  Bordering  these  streets  are  the  native 
shops,  mere  niches  in  the  walls,  where  business  is 
transacted  ;  the  barber  shops  and  cafes  presenting 
the  greatest  interest  to  seekers  of  novelty.  On  the 
street  one  is  struck  by  the  variety  of  costumes,  the 
Jew  with  fez,  dark  colored  jacket,  red  sash,  and  blue 
stockings;  the  Moor  in  white  turban,  embroid- 
ered jacket,  full,  short  trousers,  and  white  stock- 
ings ;  bare-legged  Arabs  wrapped  in  white  bur- 
nooses;  negroes,  black  as  ebony,  from  Nubia;  the 


A   TOUR 


Greek,  Spaniard  and  Maltese  ;  with  the  French 
and  native  soldiers  in  their  gay  uniforms,  all  jostle 
one  another  in  the  busy  thoroughfares. 

The  Place  Bresson  is  a  lovely  square  filled 
with  tropical  plants  ;  the  Place  du  Gouvernement 
has  in  its  centre  an  equestrian  statue  of  the  Duke 
of  Orleans  ;  and  the  Place  d'Armes,  the  former 
place  of  execution,  is  celebrated  as  being  the  spot 
where  St.  Geronimo  was  buried  alive. 

The  Kasba  —  or  citadel,  once  the  palace  of 
the  Deys,  stands  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  over- 
looking the  city.  It  was  here  that,  in  1827,  the 
Dey  struck  the  French  consul  in  the  face  with  his 
fan,  an  insult  which  cost  him  his  empire  and  led 
to  the  conquest  of  the  city  by  the  French. 

Of  the  several  mosques  in  Algiers,  the  Old 
and  the  New  Mosques  are  the  finest  in  external 
architecture.  In  accordance  with  the  simplicity 
of  the  Moslem  form  of  worship,  their  interior 
consists  of  bare  white  walls,  divided  into  naves  by 
columns  which  are  wrapped  about  with  matting 
to  the  height  of  some  three  feet;  the  floors  are 
covered  with  prayer-rugs;  lamps  are  suspended 
from  the  ceilings,  and  the  Mihrat,  a  niche  in  the 
wall,  indicates  the  direction  in  which  Mecca  lies. 
On  Friday  —  which  is  the  Mohammedan  Sabbath 
—  the  Moslem  repairs  to  the  Mosque,  and  after  his 
preliminary  ablutions,  enters  with  uncovered  feet, 
and  prostrates  himself  upon  the  ground,  touching 
his  forehead  frequently  to  the  floor,  invariably 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  179 

turning  his  face  towards  Mecca,  and  apparently 
lost  to  the  outward  world. 

Overlooking  the  Jardin  Marengo  is  a  mosque 
and  koubba  combined,  which  enshrines  the  tomb 
of  the  saint  Aba-er- Rahman,  surrounded  by  those 
of  pashas  and  deys ;  lights  are  kept  continually 
burning  on  this  tomb,  which  is  hung  around  with 
flags,  ostrich  eggs  and  other  offerings  from  the 
faithful. 

On  a  brow  of  the  hill  overlooking  the  sea  is 
the  handsome  church  of  Notre  Dame  d'Afrique ; 
the  interior  of  whose  walls  are  covered  with 
wooden  crutches,  and  with  waxen  imitations  of 
hearts,  heads,  and  limbs,  as  offerings  to  its  tute- 
lary saint  for  having  effected  miraculous  cures  of 
disease  in  each  respective  portion  of  the  human 
body.  Every  Sunday  afternoon  the  priest,  fol- 
lowed by  the  devout,  marches  in  procession  to  a 
projecting  point  overhanging  the  sea,  and  per- 
forms the  service  for  the  dead  over  that  vast 
grave. 

Directly  below  the  church,  on  the  sands  of  the 
beach,  a  weird  religious  ceremony  takes  place 
once  a  week,  at  sunrise.  A  sect  composed  of 
various  nationalities  —  Jew,  Arab,  Moor,  and  Ne- 
gro —  assemble  here  with  their  priest  to  perform 
their  singular  rites,  which  are  supposed  to  effect 
miraculous  cures.  The  afflicted  each  bring  with 
them  a  chicken,  which  is  offered  to  the  priest,  who 
adroitly  cuts  its  throat  in  a  manner  to  preserve 


180  A   TOUR 

the  blood ;  with  this  he  anoints  the  parts  affected, 
muttering  the  while  certain  incantations  or  exor- 
cisms ;  after  which  the  subjects  proceed  to  bathe 
in  the  cleansing  waters  of  the  sea  whence  they  are 
supposed  to  issue  purified. 

The  Ai'ssaoui  is  another  sect  of  fanatics,  some- 
what similar  to  the  Dervishes,  composed  of 
Arabs,  Kabyles,  and  Negroes,  and  derives  its 
name  from  its  founder  Sidi-Mahomet-Ben-A'issa. 
Their  religious  rites,  which  are  now  rarely  per- 
mitted by  the  French  authorities  on  account  of 
the  barbarity  exercised,  take  place  under  roof,  ac- 
companied by  the  primitive,  monotonous  sounds 
of  drums  beaten  by  the  hand.  Working  them- 
selves up  to  the  required  pitch  of  nervous  excite- 
ment, the  fanatics  rush  with  an  unearthly  yell 
into  the  ring,  and  execute  a  frantic  dance,  their 
bodies  swaying  and  writhing  with  the  violence  of 
their  emotions,  while  they  utter  growls  similar  to 
those  of  beasts  of  prey.  Among  the  ceremonies  we 
witnessed  were  the  ordeals  of  walking  barefooted 
on  red-hot  irons,  the  burning  flesh  impregnating 
the  air  with  its  sickening  odor;  holding  live  coals 
in  their  mouths ;  beating  their  bare  breasts  with 
great  stones ;  standing  on  the  sharp  edges  of 
swords,  running  steel  blades  through  their  cheeks, 
tongues,  and  bodies ;  and  eating  live  scorpions, 
and  the  leaves  of  the  prickly  pear. 

Three  miles  from  Algiers  is  the  Jardin  d'Es- 
sai  —  an   extensive  farm,  with   beautiful   avenues 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  l8l 

of  bamboo,  palm,  date,  banana,  and  magnolia, 
where  are  raised  large  numbers  of  ostriches. 
These  birds  which  are  of  white,  black,  and  grey 
plumage,  are  caught  on  the  desert  with  some  diffi- 
culty ;  in  order  to  capture  one  of  them,  the  speed 
of  ten  swift  horses  stationed  at  certain  intervals,  is 
required  to  run  it  down.  The  ostrich  averages 
2OO  Ibs.,  is  valued  at  about  $300,  and  lives  to  the 
age  of  40  years.  Between  this  garden  and  the 
city  is  the  Arab  cemetery  where  every  Friday 
afternoon  the  women  assemble  to  pray  upon  the 
graves  of  their  dead.  On  the  road  we  passed 
caravans  of  camels,  heavily  laden  with  fruit  and 
various  merchandise,  on  their  way  to  and  from 
the  city. 

From  Algiers  we  crossed  the  Mediterranean, 
passing  between  the  islands  of  Majorca  and  Min- 
orca, and  landed  on  the  southern  coast  of  France. 

Marseilles  is  the  great  commercial  seaport  of 
France  on  the  Mediterranean,  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  325,000.  It  was  founded  by  the  Phoeni- 
cians 600  years  B.  C.,  and  in  its  vicinity  is  the 
battlefield  where  Hannibal  and  his  Carthagenians 
on  their  march  upon  Rome  encountered  the  Ro- 
man legions. 

The  quays  of  Marseilles  are  magnificent,  and 
its  harbor  the  finest  in  France,  accommodating 
hundreds  of  vessels,  and  is  so  arranged  as  to  al- 
low of  the  entrance  of  but  one  at  a  time.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  clean,  the  principal  of  which 


1 82  A    TOUR 

are  bordered  with  trees  and  handsome  buildings; 
the  Prado,  a  lovely  shaded  avenue,  several  miles 
in  length,  being  a  favorite  drive  of  an  afternoon. 
Its  principal  edifices  are,  the  Church  of  Notre 
Dame  de  la  Garde,  located  on  an  eminence,  the 
Palais  de  Longchamps;  the  Cathedral,  and  the 
Bourse. 

The  Chateau  d'lf  on  a  rocky  island  in  the  bay, 
five  miles  from  Marseilles,  was  the  scene  of 
Dumas'  greatest  work  of  fiction  —  the  Count  of 
Monte  Cristo.  The  water  surrounding  the  island 
is  deep  and  rough  but  it  is  accessible  by  sail  boat 
in  fair  weather.  On  the  wall  of  a  prison  cell 
are  still  visible  the  mathematical  calculations  of 
the  abbe  Ferrier.  The  size  of  his  small  donjon 
cell  barely  measures  the  length  of  the  narrow 
bed  that  concealed  the  aperture  in  the  wall, 
which  he  made  at  cost  of  such  peril  and  sleepless 
vigils,  thus  enabling  the  wretched  prisoner  to  com- 
municate with  Edmond  Dantes.  A  point  on  the 
battlement,  reached  by  stone  steps,  is  shown 
where  the  living  sewn  up  in  a  bag  was  thrown 
into  the  sea  in  place  of  the  dead  man ;  and  a  rock 
two  miles  distant  is  seen  where  Dantes  first  placed 
foot  after  making  his  almost  miraculous  escape. 

The  Chateau  d'lf  is  also  notable  as  the  tem- 
porary place  of  confinement  of  the  man  of  the 
Iron  Mask,  whose  identity  is  to  this  day  en- 
shrouded in  mystery,  and  of  other  better  known, 
but  perhaps  less  distinguished  prisoners. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  183 

From  Marseilles  to  Nice,  the  railroad  passes 
through  Toulon,  the  great  naval  arsenal  of  France 
on  the  Mediterranean,  which  is  strongly  fortified, 
and  now  considered  impregnable.  Toulon  was 
taken  by  the  English  in  August  1793;  but  as 
5,OOO  troops  were  inadequate  to  garrison  such  ex- 
tensive works,  the  important  pass  of  Ollioules  on 
the  west  was  left  unguarded,  and  was  entered  by 
50,000  mad  Republicans  reeking  with  the  gore  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Marseilles  and  Lyons,  who 
killed  all  whom  they  met  whether  friend  or  foe. 
Six  thousand  were  massacred  by  order  of  the 
Committee  of  Public  Safety,  of  which  Robes- 
pierre was  at  the  head,  notwithstanding  the  pro- 
testations of  the  French  general,  Du  Gommier, 
and  those  of  his  lieutenant  Bonaparte. 

It  was  at  Toulon  that  Napoleon —  for  the  first 
time  in  command,  had  an  opportunity  of  display- 
ing his  military  genius,  and  so  planted  his  bat- 
teries on  the  heights  as  to  command  all  the  forts 
held  by  the  enemy. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Toulon,  on  the  coast,  is 
the  village  of  St.  Raphael  where  Napoleon  em- 
barked for  Elba  in  1814,  the  beginning  and  clos- 
ing of  his  wonderful  career  taking  place  in  such 
near  proximity. 

Cannes,  delightfully  situated  on  a  bay  of  the 
same  name,  is  a  winter  resort  noted  for  its  mild 
climate.  It  has  many  lovely  villas,  and  pleasant 
Walks  and  drives  in  every  direction. 


I  84  A   TOUR 

Nice,  on  the  Mediterranean,  with  a  resident 
population  of  54,000,  is  a  favorite  resort  on  ac- 
count of  its  perfect  climate.  Some  of  its  streets 
and  buildings  may  compare  favorably  with  those 
of  Paris,  while  the  Promenade  des  Anglais,  which 
faces  the  sea,  is  thronged  every  afternoon  with  the 
elite  and  fashion  of  the  place. 

It  was  in  Nice  that  Massina  was  born,  1758, 
and  Garibaldi  in  1807.  A  marble  cross  commem- 
orates the  visit,  in  1538,  of  Pope  Paul  III.,  who 
came  to  effect  a  reconciliation  between  Francis  I. 
of  France  and  Charles  V.  of  Germany,  and  a 
monument  is  also  erected  in  honor  of  the  visit  of 
Pope  Pius  VII.  in  1814. 

A  charming  drive  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city 
leads  to  the  Franciscan  monastery,  the  road  pass- 
ing through  an  old  Roman  amphitheatre  and 
near  many  lovely  villas. 

In  Nice  a  specialty  is  made  of  bonbons  made 
of  the  real  petals  of  the  violet,  orange,  and  rose, 
coated  with  sugar  in  such  manner  as  to  retain 
their  natural  fragrance. 

Monaco,  the  smallest  sovereign  principality  in 
Europe,  being  only  one  mile  in  width,  and  having 
an  army  of  only  72  men,  projects  into  the  Medi- 
terranean from  the  south-eastern  corner  of  France, 
and  is  protected  from  the  winds  of  the  north, 
by  a  spur  of  the  Alps  which  rises  behind  it  like  a 
vast  amphitheatre. 

On    one    of    the    peninsulas    is    the    town    of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  185 

Monaco  and  the  palace  of  Prince  Grimaldi,  while 
on  the  opposite  point  is  Monte  Carlo,  the  famous 
gambling  place  of  Europe,  which  the  prince  rents 
to  a  French  company  for  a  fabulous  sum. 

On  the  top  of  the  mountain  stand  romantic 
ruins  of  old  Roman  towers,  further  down,  magni- 
ficent gardens,  filled  with  palm  and  date  trees, 
beautiful  flowers,  and  a  luxuriance  of  other  tropical 
growth,  while  below,  the  blue  curves  of  the  bay, 
combine  to  render  the  scene  a  most  charming  one. 
The  Casino  is  a  magnificent  harmony  of  frescoes, 
gildings,  mirrors,  and  paintings.  The  Concert  room 
seats  I,OOO  people,  and  is  free  to  the  habitues  of 
the  place,  who  congregate  there  daily  to  listen  to 
the  strains  of  the  finest  string  band  in  Europe. 
The  Gambling  rooms,  three  in  number,  open  one 
into  the  other,  and  contain  seven  tables  for  the 
game  which  begins  at  12  M.  and  closes  at  11:30 
P.  M.  No  one  is  permitted  here  under  sixteen 
years  of  age,  but  in  singular  contrast  is  tot- 
tering old  age  and  blooming  youth,  dazzling 
beauty  and  frivolous  fashion,  nobles,  plebeians, 
actresses,  and  demi-mondaines,  all  intent  upon  the 
game  ;  money  flowing  lavishly,  fortunes  made  and 
lost  in  a  few  hours. 

The  Cornice  road,  which  extends  from  Nice  to 
Spezia,  runs  parallel  with  the  railway  skirting  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  passing  near  a  num- 
ber of  small  villages  and  places  of  resort,  one  of 
the  most  attractive  of  which  is  San  Remo. 


I  86  A   TOUR 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

GENOA:    TURIN:   MILAN:  VERONA:   VENICE:  BOLOGNA: 
FLORENCE:    CARRARA:    PISA. 

GENOA,  is  a  city  of  162,000  inhabitants,  built  on 
and  between  hills  overlooking  the  bay.  Its  streets 
are  very  narrow,  especially  in  the  old  quarter,  and 
its  houses,  many  of  which  are  of  marble,  rise  to  a 
great  height,  having  as  many  as  eight  and  ten 
stories.  As  a  rule  the  exterior  of  the  houses  are 
stuccoed,  painted  red  or  yellow,  and  frescoed  from 
top  to  bottom,  while  the  roofs  being  flat  and 
filled  with  plants  and  shrubs  serve  as  a  promenade 
for  the  owners. 

Genoa  is  especially  noted  as  having  been  the 
native  city  of  Columbus,  who  was  born  here  in 
1436.  His  statue  adorns  a  square  in  the  city,  and 
represents  him  leaning  on  an  anchor,  America 
kneeling  at  his  feet,  and  surrounding  him  figures 
typical  of  Wisdom,  Strength,  Geography  and  Re- 
ligion. 

The  city  is  celebrated  for  its  delicate  filagree 
work  in  gold  and  silver,  and  is  a  great  manufac- 
turing place  for  silks  and  velvets. 

The  Cathedral  of  San  Lorenzo,  a  portion  of 
which  was  a  heathen  temple  of  worship  in  olden 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  l8/ 

times,  is  built  of  black  and  white  marble  in  hori- 
zontal stripes,  and  is  adorned  with  handsome 
columns,  and  grotesque  figures  representing  ani- 
mals. In  the  treasury  of  this  church  is  the  Sacro 
Catino,  the  dish  from  which  it  is  said  Christ  ate 
the  Last  Supper.  It  is  of  dark  green  glass,  ten 
inches  across  and  four  deep,  and  was  kept  in  the 
Temple  until  Caesarea  was  taken  by  the  combined 
armies  of  Pisa  and  Genoa,  when  the  latter  took  it 
as  their  share  of  the  booty.  So  great  was  the 
veneration  in  which  this  dish  was  held,  the  Jews 
loaned  5,000,000  francs  —  $1,000,000  —  on  it,  and 
when  on  exhibition  once  a  year,  it  was  attached 
by  a  strong  chain  which  was  held  by  a  priest,  and 
was  guarded  by  twelve  noblemen. 

The  Church  of  the  Annunciation  has  the  finest 
interior  of  any  in  Genoa,  being  finished  in  a  great 
variety  of  marbles,  its  ceiling  and  dome  frescoed 
to  represent  scenes  from  the  Old  and  New  Testa- 
ments. 

The  palaces  of  Genoa  are  of  marble  with  an 
open  court  inclosed  in  pillars ;  the  entrance  doors 
or  gates  are  frequently  forty  feet  high,  and  sur- 
mounted by  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  owner,  and 
both  exteriorly  and  interiorly,  they  are  dingy, 
damp,  cold,  and  prison-like.  The  principal  of 
these  are  the  Pallavicini,  Doria,  Brignoli,  and 
Doria-Torsi  palaces,  in  all  of  which  are  fine  paint- 
ings, while  the  ducal  palace,  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Doges,  is  now  used  for  public  offices. 


188  A   TOUR 

The  Campo  Santo,  or  Cemetery,  three  miles 
from  Genoa,  is  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  is  justly 
celebrated  for  its  many  magnificent  monuments  ; 
these,  the  best  works  of  Villa,  Benetti,  and  Mor- 
eno, are  cut  from  the  purest  white  marble  ;  their 
originality  of  design  and  delicacy  of  execution, 
being  truly  wonderful.  The  humble  graves  of  the 
poor  offer  a  striking  contrast,  being  simply 
mounds  of  earth  surmounted  by  lanterns. 

Seven  miles  from  Genoa  is  the  villa  of  Count 
Pallavicini,  in  the  grounds  of  which  are  a  great 
variety  of  plants  and  trees,  miniature  mosques, 
pagodas,  and  temples,  with  numerous  jets  of 
water,  leaping  up  here  and  there  at  most  unex- 
pected turns,  and  a  stalactite  grotto  in  which  is  a 
small  lake,  winding  through  to  an  opening  on  the 
opposite  side,  where  a  scene  of  unexpected  beauty 
greets  the  eye. 

Turin,  on  the  river  Po,  with  a  population  of 
193,000,  differing  from  other  Italian  towns,  is 
well  built,  with  streets  running  at  right  angles, 
and  houses  massive  and  substantial,  its  several 
squares  containing  many  fine  monuments.  In  the 
Piazza  Castello  stands  the  old  castle  of  the  dukes 
of  Savoy,  also  the  present  palace,  adjoining,  which 
is  the  Royal  Armory,  noted  for  its  fine  display  of 
arms.  In  the  chapel  of  St.  Sinode  attached  to  the 
Cathedral,  is  preserved  the  winding  sheet  of  the 
Saviour. 

From  Turin,  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  189 

Alps,  and  from  this  point  rail  is  taken  to  lorea, 
thence  stage  and  horse  to  the  Hospice  at  the 
summit  of  the  great  St.  Bernard. 

Milan,  the  capital  of  Lombardy,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  261,000  and  noted  for  its  manufacture  of 
silk  and  velvet,  is  the  finest  and  most  modern- 
built  city  in  Italy,  full  of  activity  and  thrift,  and 
free  from  those  evidences  of  decline  visible  in 
other  Italian  cities.  It  is  nearly  circular  in  form, 
and  seven  miles  around,  with  thirteen  gates  of 
massive  proportions,  the  finest  of  these  being  the 
Porta  della  Pace,  on  the  Simplon  road ;  it  is  of 
marble  ornamented  with  statues,  and  surmounted 
by  the  bronze  figure  of  Peace  in  a  chariot  drawn 
by  six  horses. 

Within  the  city  are  the  well-preserved  remains 
of  an  ancient  Roman  arena,  sufficiently  large  to 
accommodate  30,000  spectators.  Here  Napoleon 
witnessed  a  regatta  in  1807,  water  having  been  in- 
troduced into  it  by  artificial  means. 

The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral  of  Milan,  the  finest 
in  Italy,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  existing 
specimens  of  Gothic  architecture.  It  is  con- 
structed of  white  marble,  from  the  quarries  of 
Gandolia,  which  was  bequeathed  to  the  Cathedral 
by  Gian  Galleazzo,  and  is  in  the  form  of  the  Latin 
cross,  477x183  feet,  surmounted  by  hundreds  of 
spires  and  4,000  statues.  The  interior,  with  its 
double  aisles,  lofty  arches,  and  clustered  pillars  — 
ninety  feet  high,  and  eight  in  diameter,  is  very 


A   TOUR 


imposing,  and  beneath  the  dome  are  the  remains 
of  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  who  was  archbishop  of 
Milan  in  the  1  6th  century. 

On  the  wall  of  the  Refectory  in  the  Dominican 
Church  of  Santa  Maria  delle  Grazie,  is  Leonardo 
da  Vinci's  fresco  of  the  Last  Supper.  This,  one 
of  his  first  works  —  30  feet  in  length  by  15  in 
height,  occupied  sixteen  years  of  his  life.  Though 
greatly  damaged  by  dampness,  age,  and  violence 
—  the  monks  having  cut  a  door  through  the  feet 
of  the  principal  figure,  and  Napoleon  having  used 
the  room  for  a  stable  —  it  is  still  considered  the 
finest  painting  in  the  world. 

In  the  Church  of  St.  Ambrogio  where  the 
German  emperors  received  the  crown  of  Lom- 
bardy,  they  claim  to  have  the  Brazen  Serpent 
made  by  Moses  in  the  Wilderness. 

The  Biblioteca  Ambrosiana  comprises  175,000 
volumes-,  and  20,000  MSS.  among  which  are,  a 
note-book  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci  ;  a  lost  oration 
of  Cicero  ;  translations  from  Homer,  Josephus,  and 
Livy  ;  and  the  correspondence  of  Cardinal  Bembo 
and  Lucrezia  Borgia,  with  a  lock  of  her  hair. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Piazza  della  Scala  —  a 
public  square,  is  a  monument,  in  Carrara  marble, 
of  Leonardo  da  Vinci  surrounded  by  his  pupils. 
Facing  this  stands  the  famous  Teatro  della  Scala, 
which  contains  six  tiers  of  boxes  seating  4,000 
people,  and  whose  acoustic  properties  are  superior 
to  those  of  any  other  theatre  in  the  world. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  IQI 

In  the  Monumental  Cemetery  is  the  Crema- 
tion house,  containing  furnaces  and  all  other  neces- 
sary appliances  for  the  incinerary  rites.  The  body 
is  placed  on  an  iron  slide  and  pushed  into  an  oven 
which  after  being  rendered  air-tight,  is  brought  to 
intense  heat  by  means  of  brush  twigs,  but  two 
hours  being  required  to  reduce  the  body  to 
ashes. 

Verona,  on  the  river  Adige,  with  a  population 
of  67,000,  was  once  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of 
Italy,  and  afterwards  that  of  quite  a  large  territory 
governed  successively  by  the  Scaligers  and  Vi- 
contis.  It  was  near  here  Marius  fought  his 
famous  battle  against  the  Cimbri ;  here  Theodoric 
the  Great  won  the  victory  over  Odoacer;  and  in 
the  1 3th  and  I4th  centuries  transpired  the  conten- 
tions between  the  Capuletti  and  Montecchi,  which 
Shakespeare  has  immortalized  in  his  story  of  the 
loves  of  Romeo  and  Juliet. 

Verona  is  celebrated  as  having  given  birth  to 
Julius  Caesar  Scaliger,  Caius  Secundus,  Pliny  the 
elder,  whose  tragic  death  occurred  at  Vesuvius, 
and  Paul  Cagliari,  surnamed  Veronese.  The 
principal  objects  of  interest  in  the  city  are,  the  old 
Roman  amphitheatre,  which  seated  25,000  per- 
sons, and  is  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation :  the 
Church  of  Zanzenone,  in  which  are  the  statue  of 
the  black  African  bishop  St.  Zeno,  and  the  tomb  of 
Guiseppi  della  Scala  to  whom  Dante  refers.  The 
Palazzo  del  Consiglio  is  a< 


IQ2  A   TOUR 

of  Catullus  Fracastorio,  poet  and  astronomer, 
Pliny  and  other  sons  of  Verona. 

In  a  public  thoroughfare  yet  stand,  as  they 
have  for  500  years,  the  tombs  of  the  Scaligers, 
the  old  lords  of  Verona ;  while  still  to  be  seen 
are  the  houses  of  the  Montagues  and  Capu- 
lets  —  the  latter  bearing  the  armorial  crest  of  the 
Capulet  bonnet:  here  Juliet's  room  and  balcony 
are  pointed  out,  and  her  grave  is  shown  in  a  re- 
mote part  of  the  city.  The  play  of  Romeo  and 
Juliet  was  produced  by  Shakespeare  in  1596,  but 
the  original  author  of  the  story,  a  fact  not  gener- 
ally known,  was  Luigi  da  Porta,  a  gentleman  of 
Vicenza,  who  died  in  1529. 

Venice,  the  queen  of  the  Adriatic,  was  founded 
in  462,  by  the  inhabitants  of  Aquilera,  who  fled  to 
the  shallow  lagunes  for  safety,  when  Italy  was  in- 
vaded by  Attila.  It  is  built  on  117  islands  on  a 
bay  in  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  intersected  by  150 
narrow  canals  which  are  spanned  by  380  short 
bridges.  As  there  are  few  or  no  sidewalks,  the 
mode  of  conveyance  used  either  for  business  or 
pleasure  is  the  gondola  —  a  long  narrow  boat 
rowed  by  two  men  who  stand  erect  one  at  the  bow 
and  the  other  at  the  stern,  propelling  it  with  grace 
and  skill.  These  boats,  which  hold  from  two  to 
six  persons,  are  painted  black  by  legal  ordinance 
which  was  established  to  prevent  the  growing 
rivalry  of  extravagance.  They  are  comfortably 
and  luxuriously  appointed,  but  in  bad  weather  a 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  193 

wooden  covering  is  thrown  over  that  portion 
occupied  by  passengers,  which  with  its  gloomy 
trappings  gives  it  the  appearance  of  a  hearse. 

The  city  is  chiefly  noted  for  its  glass  manu- 
factures and  wood  carvings,  and  contains  many 
fine  churches  and  palaces  built  mostly  after  the 
Byzantine-Moorish  style,  while  many  of  its  towers 
and  houses,  on  account  of  their  sunken  founda- 
tions, lean  almost  as  much  as  the  Tower  of  Pisa% 
The  city  by  daylight  is  unattractive,  as  the  houses; 
are  mouldy  and  out  of  repair,  but  by  moonlight 
it  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  showing  the  light, 
open  style  of  architecture  to  advantage.  Gliding 
over  the  glassy  surface  of  the  canals,  with  music 
pulsing  in  the  air,  and  the  sheen  of  the  moonlight 
casting  a  glamour  over  the  scene,  is  enchanting 
and  attractive  for  a  time,  but  after  a  few  weeks* 
stay  the  novelty  wears  off,  and  the  fact  of  being 
dependent  upon  a  gondola  and  gondolier  gives, 
one  a  sense  of  infinite  helplessness ;  for  as  some- 
one has  said  :  "  Venice  is  a  paradise  for  cripples^ 
as  a  man  has  little  use  for  his  legs." 

The  Grand  Canal  which  is  two  and  a  half  miles 
in  length,  three  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  six  in 
depth,  runs  through  the  heart  of  the  city  in  the 
form  of  the  letter  S.  On  it  are  situated  most  of 
the  fine  buildings,  and  mid-way  it  is  spanned  by 
the  famous  Ponte  di  Rialto  —  a  marble  bridge 
bordered  on  either  side  by  shops — which  connects 
the  two  large  islands  of  Rialto  and  San  Marco. 
13 


IQ4  A    TOUR 

The  Piazza  di  San  Marco  is  the  principal 
square  in  the  city,  where  the  band  plays  in  the 
evening,  and  all  Venice  promenades  from  7  to  9. 
At  2  P.  M.  when  the  clock  strikes  the  hour  hun- 
dreds of  pigeons  fly  from  all  directions  to  its  centre 
to  be  fed,  an  old  lady  having  bequeathed  her 
fortune  for  this  purpose.  Around  this  square  are 
the  principal  cafes,  shops,  and  public  buildings, 
including  St.  Mark's  Church,  and  the  palaces  of 
the  Doge  and  the  King.  At  the  water-front  are 
two  granite  columns  from  Syria,  on  one  of  which 
is  the  statue  of  St.  Theodore,  the  protector  of  the 
Republic,  standing  on  an  alligator,  and  on  the 
other  the  Lion  of  St.  Mark,  with  one  foot  on  the 
Bible  and  another  on  a  ball ;  between  these  two 
columns  public  executions  formerly  took  place. 

St.  Mark's  Church  standing  at  the  head  of  the 
Square,  was  founded  in  828  to  receive  the  re- 
mains of  St.  Mark  brought  from  Alexandria, 
Egypt,  and  is  of  the  Gothic  and  Oriental  styles. 
In  front  of  the  church  are  the  three  staffs  which 
formerly  bore  the  flags  of  Candia,  Cyprus,  and 
Morea,  and  above  the  main  entrance  are  the  four 
famous  bronze  horses  of  Chian  origin.  These 
horses  were  taken  to  Constantinople  by  Theodo- 
sius,  from  thence  they  were  removed  by  the  Vene- 
tians, in  1206,  when  they  plundered  the  capital  of 
the  Eastern  Empire;  they  were  afterwards  car- 
ried to  Paris  by  Napoleon,  and  subsequently 
restored  to  Venice.  The  pulpits  and  walls  of  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  195 

church  are  of  costly  marble  decorated  with  Bibli- 
cal illustrations  in  glass  mosaic,  and  of  its  500 
pillars  of  alabaster  and  stone,  the  four  centre  ones 
supporting  the  canopy  over  the  relics  of  St.  Mark, 
are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  the  Temple  of 
Solomon.  The  altar  of  the  baptistry  is  formed  of 
a  granite  slab  on  which,  it  is  said,  Jesus  stood 
when  he  preached  to  the  inhabitants  of  Tyre,  and 
near  the  central  portal  is  a  red  marble  block  in- 
serted in  the  floor  marking  the  spot  where  Pope 
Alexander  III.  was  reconciled  to  the  Emperor 
Frederick  Barbarossa,  July  23d,  1177. 

To  the  left  and  right  of  the  church  are  the  bell 
and  clock  towers,  up  the  former  of  which  Napo- 
leon rode  apparently  in  imitation  of  the  feat  per- 
formed by  Peter  the  Great  in  Copenhagen;  while 
the  latter  contains  a  large  and  complicated  clock 
with  two  life-size  bronze  figures  of  men  which 
strike  the  hour  with  sledge  hammers. 

The  Doge's  Palace,  on  the  east  side  of  St. 
Mark's  Square,  is  built  of  red  and  white  marble,  in 
the  Oriental  style,  and  is  supported  on  the  Square 
and  water-front  sides  by  colonnades.  It  is  en- 
tered by  the  Giant  Staircase,  which  derives  its 
name  from  the  gigantic  statues  of  Mars  and  Nep- 
tune;  besides  these  are  those  of  Adam  and  Eve, 
while  ranged  around  the  corridor  are  busts  of 
celebrated  Venetians ;  here  the  doge,  Marino  Fa- 
liero,  was  beheaded  for  plotting  against  the 
Republic. 


196  A   TOUR 

At  the  head  of  the  Giant  Staircase  is  The 
Lion's  Mouth  —  a  small  hole  in  the  wall  formerly 
covered  with  a  lion's  head,  in  the  mouth  of  which 
informers  were  wont  to  place  anonymous  commu- 
nications warning  the  authorities  against  suspected 
conspiracies ;  this  means  was  not  infrequently 
taken  advantage  of  to  gratify  personal  animosity, 
and  many  an  innocent  victim  was  arrested  and 
sentenced  to  death. 

Ascending  the  stairs  one  enters  the  Library, 
which  contains  the  first  book  printed  in  Venice,  in 
1469,  and  the  will  of  Marco  Polo,  dated  1324. 

The  Hall  of  the  Great  Council  is  a  vast  apart- 
ment, its  walls  and  ceiling  covered  with  frescoes, 
at  one  end  of  which  is  Tintoretto's  painting  on 
canvas  of  Paradise,  84x33^  feet  in  size,  while 
bordering  the  walls  are  the  portraits  of  the  72 
doges,  that  of  Marino  Faliero  being  obliterated. 

When  the  patricians  governed  Venice,  plebeians 
had  no  vote  or  voice  in  state  affairs :  from  the 
1500  patricians,  300  senators  were  chosen;  from 
the  senators,  a  council  of  10,  who  elected  from 
their  number  a  doge,  and  by  secret  ballot  these  IO 
chose  a  council  of  3,  who  judged  all  political 
criminals,  and  from  whose  sentence  there  was  no 
appeal :  these  met  at  night  in  the  Dark  Room, 
masked,  and  unknown  to  each  other  or  even  to 
the  Doge.  In  the  vestibule  leading  into  this 
apartment  was  another  Lion's  Mouth  in  which  the 
patricians  deposited  their  accusations  signed  with 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  197 

their  own  names  —  unlike  those  of  the  plebeians. 
The  Chamber  of  the  Council  of  Three  is  of  dark 
wood,  imparting  a  gloomy  aspect  in  keeping  with 
the  mystery  of  their  transactions :  in  closets  in 
this  room  were  kept  their  masks  and  gowns,  and 
secret  passages  connected  it  with  the  prison. 

Mystery  and  darkness  likewise  enshrouded  all 
dealings  with  the  suspected.  The  accused  was 
arrested  in  the  secrecy  of  night  and  conveyed  in  a 
gondola  to  the  water  door  of  the  prison,  where  he 
was  confined  in  a  donjon  cell,  until  taken  across 
the  Bridge  of  Sighs  to  receive  sentence  in  the 
Chamber  of  the  Council  of  Three,  which  sentence 
invariably  meant  a  horrible  death. 


"  I  stood  in  Venice,  on  the  Bridge  of  Sighs ; 
A  palace  and  a  prison  on   each  hand.'' 


The  Ponte  dei  Sospiri,  or  Bridge  of  Sighs,  is 
a  covered  passage,  divided  by  a  lengthwise  parti- 
tion, one  small  window  admitting  light  within, 
and  permitting  to  the  condemned  a  last  glimpse 
of  the  outer  world  he  was  quitting  forever. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  Arsenal  are  the  four 
marble  lions  brought  from  Piraeus  in  1687,  and 
within  it,  is  a  model  of  the  Bucentaur  —  the 
Doge's  gilded  barge  used  at  the  annual  cere- 
monial of  his  marriage  with  the  Adriatic  when 
the  nuptial  ring  dropped  into  its  waves  consum- 
mated the  poetic  rites. 


198  A   TOUR 

In  the  private  palace  of  Treves  are  the  colossal 
marble  statues  of  Hector  and  Ajax,  the  last  works 
of  the  great  Canova.  Of  the  other  objects  of 
general  interest  in  Venice  are,  the  house  of  Shy- 
lock,  the  "  Merchant  of  Venice,"  situated  in  the 
Jews'  quarter  near  the  Grand  Canal ;  that  of 
Cristoforo  Moro,  the  original  of  Shakespeare's 
Othello ;  the  house  of  Desdemona,  now  a  part  of 
the  Grand  Hotel ;  the  house  of  Lucrezia  Borgia, 
now  a  museum  ;  and  the  palace  occupied  by  Lord 
Byron  while  writing  his  beautiful  description  of 
Venice. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Maria  di  Frari,  mag- 
nificently adorned  with  a  variety  of  marbles, 
contains  the  beautiful  monuments  to  Titian  and 
Canova,  and  a  most  peculiar  one  to  the  Doge 
Giovanni  Pessaro,  consisting  of  four  gigantic  Nu- 
bians in  black  marble,  their  drapery  of  a  strongly 
contrasting  white  marble,  bearing  on  their  heads 
sacks  of  India  coffee. 

While  in  Venice  we  witnessed  a  grand  illu- 
mination on  land  and  water,  given  in  honor  of  a 
visit  from  the  English  fleet.  An  immense  barge 
gay  with  colored  lights,  and  flags  of  all  nations, 
and  bearing  a  fine  band  of  music,  was  drawn  by 
smaller  boats,  and  followed  by  hundreds  of  illu- 
minated gondolas,  through  the  canals.  These 
latter  were  bordered  by  brilliantly-lighted  build- 
ings, while  colored  rockets  sped  like  meteors 
through  the  air. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  199 

Taking  rail  from  Venice  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion, we  stopped  at  Bologna,  celebrated  for  its 
manufacture  of  sausages  ;  crossed  the  Apennines 
range,  having  a  succession  of  beautiful  views,  and 
passed  through  Pistoria,  where  pistols  were  origi- 
nally manufactured,  and  whence  they  took  their 
name  ;  and  near  here  Cataline  was  defeated  and 
slain. 

Florence,  in  the  province  of  Tuscany,  on  both 
banks  of  the  Arno,  has  a  population  of  170,000. 
It  has  been  immortalized  by  Byron  and  Rogers, 
and  revered  as  the  birthplace  of  Dante,  Petrarch, 
Boccaccio,  Galileo,  Michael  Angelo,  Leonardo  da 
Vinci,  Benvenuto  Cellini,  and  Andraea  del  Sarto. 

In  the  Piazza  della  Signoria  stands  the  Pal- 
azzo Vecchio,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  su- 
perior magistrate,  near  which  is  the  Fountain  of 
Neptune  on  the  site  where  the  reformer,  Savona- 
rola, suffered  martyrdom  ;  and  under  the  Loggia 
di  Lanzi  are  fine  sculptures  of  the  Rape  of  the 
Sabines  by  Giovanni  di  Bologna ;  Perseus,  by 
Benvenuto  Cellini  ;  the  Rape  of  Polixena ;  and 
the  Dying  Ajax. 

Florence  is  noted  for  her  large  collections  of 
the  fine  arts ;  and  for  the  manufacture  of  mosaics, 
which  are  composed  of  colored  stones  blended 
with  such  artistic  skill  as  to  resemble  the  most 
delicate  painting. 

The  Uffizi  Gallery,  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  valuable  collections  existing,  contains  Titian's 


200  A   TOUR 

Venus  Reposing ;  the  Mater  Dolorosa  by  Sasso- 
ferrato  ;  and  the  marble  statues  of  the  Venus  di 
Medici,  found  in  Hadrian's  villa  during  the  reign 
of  the  Medici;  the  Wrestlers;  the  Young  Ath- 
lete ;  and  the  Dancing  Faun  ;  besides  a  vase  cut 
from  a  single  block  of  Lapis  Lazuli  14  inches  in 
diameter ;  and  a  mosaic  table,  which  required  the 
labor  of  fifteen  years,  and  is  valued  at  $200,000. 

The  Pitti  Palace  the  residence  of  the  king 
when  in  Florence,  has  a  collection  of  500  paint- 
ings by  old  masters  ;  the  most  celebrated  of  these 
are  Raphael's  Madonna  della  Seggiola, — or  Ma- 
donna of  the  chair  ;  Titian's  Magdalene  ;  Murillo's 
Madonna  and  Child ;  and  a  painting  representing 
Diogenes  in  the  act  of  throwing  away  his  cup  on 
seeing  a  boy  drink  from  his  hand :  besides  these 
are  Canova's  sculptured  Venus,  and  other  fine 
marbles. 

In  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  are  Michael  An- 
gelo's  colossal  statue  of  David  ;  and  a  fair  collec- 
tion of  paintings  by  modern  artists ;  while  in  the 
National  Museum  formerly  the  State  prison  are 
Michael  Angelo's  Leda  and  the  Swan  ;  and  Gio- 
vanni di  Bologna's  Mercury  in  bronze. 

The  Tribuna  dedicated  to  the  memory  of 
Galileo  contains  his  statue  in  marble;  also,  in  a 
glass  case,  one  of  his  fingers ;  and  his  telescope 
and  other  astronomical  instruments.  On  the  walls 
are  three  beautiful  frescoes  representing  scenes  in 
the  life  of  this  great  astronomer;  one  depicting 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  2OI 

him  in  the  Cathedral  at  Pisa  swinging  the  lamp 
from  which  he  originated  the  theory  of  the  pen- 
dulum ;  another,  his  demonstration  of  the  power 
of  the  telescope  before  the  Doge  and  Council  of 
Ten ;  and  the  last  representing  him  as  blind  with 
one  hand  resting  on  the  globe,  the  other  pointing 
heavenward  as  he  demonstrates  to  his  pupils  the 
motion  of  the  heavenly  bodies. 

The  house  in  which  Dante  was  born  is  still 
extant ;  and  in  that  of  Michael  Angelo,  the  illus- 
trious Italian  painter,  sculptor,  and  architect, — 
born  in  1474  and  died  in  1564  —  are  his  manu- 
scripts, swords,  canes,  designs,  and  his  portrait  by 
himself. 

The  Cathedral  of  Santa  Maria  del  Fiore,  built 
of  black  and  white  marbles,  has  the  largest 
dome  in  the  World,  and  served  as  a  model  for  that 
of  St.  Peter;  its  campanile  —  or  bell-tower  — 
designed  by  Giotto,  rises  to  a  height  of  275  feet; 
and  near  it  are  the  statues  of  the  two  architects 
Arnolfo  and  Brunelleschi,  while  not  far  off  is  the 
Seat  of  Dante  where  the  poet  contemplated  the 
beauties  of  the  Cathedral. 

The  Baptistry,  built  after  the  model  of  the 
Pantheon  at  Rome,  from  material  taken  from  the 
temple  of  Mars,  contains  Ghilberti's  celebrated 
bronze  doors  representing  scenes  from  the  Old 
and  New  Testaments,  which  Michael  Angelo  de- 
clared worthy  of  being  the  gates  of  Paradise. 

The  Church    of   Santa  Croce  is    the  favorite 


202  A    TOUR 

burial-place;  and  contains" the  tombs  of,  and  fine 
monuments  to  Dante,  Galileo  and  Michael  Angelo 
Buonarrotti.  Over  the  entrance  are  the  letters 
I.  H.  S. —  anglicized  Jesus  Saviour  of  Men  — 
placed  there  by  St.  Bernadino  of  Sienna;  who, 
reproving  one  of  his  flock  for  the  manufacture  of 
playing  cards,  suggested  the  substitution  of  these 
letters  for  the  usual  characters.  The  unique 
novelty  of  the  inscription  pleased  the  popular  fancy 
and  the  sale  of  his  cards  realized  him  a  fortune. 

In  the  Church  of  Ognisanti  is  the  tomb  of  the 
discoverer  Amerigo  Vespucci  marked  only  by  a 
simple  slab ;  and  in  the  Church  of  San  Lorenzo 
is  the  Medicean  Chapel,  originally  intended  for 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which  the  Tuscans  intended 
stealing  from  Jerusalem,  but  failed  in  the  attempt. 
The  Chapel  contains  some  magnificent  mosaics 
and  frescoes ;  the  walls  are  inlaid  with  valuable 
marbles  and  precious  stones,  with  armorial  bear- 
ings the  very  perfection  of  mosaic  art.  Here  are 
the  tombs  of  Guiliano  and  Lorenzo  di  Medici,  and 
of  other  members  of  that  wicked  race. 

The  Cascine  is  the  Hyde  Park  of  Florence, 
deriving  its  name  from  the  dairy  houses  of  the 
Grand  Duke  ;  here  the  fashion  of  the  city  congre- 
gate of  an  afternoon,  for  the  society  of  Florence 
makes  no  further  requirements  than  an  attend- 
ance at  the  Opera,  and  an  equipage  in  the 
Cascine. 

Carrara    is    celebrated     for    its    perfect    white 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  203 

marble,  which  is  used  exclusively  for  statuary. 
The  quarries,  of  which  there  are  several,  are  on 
the  side  of  a  mountain  overlooking  the  town,  and 
give  employment  to  about  6,000  men.  The 
marble  having  been  blasted,  the  huge  blocks  are 
carried  by  rail  down  the  mountain  side  and  hauled 
by  ten  or  more  oxen  to  the  mills  where  they  are 
sawed  into  more  portable  size.  In  the  town  are 
several  fine  studios  of  which  Pietro  Lazzerini's  is 
the  best  known. 

Pisa,  an  ancient  and  much  decayed  city,  is  on 
the  Arno,  five  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  contains 
50,000  inhabitants.  The  Leaning  Tower,  183 
feet  in  height,  is  built  of  white  marble,  and  con- 
sists of  eight  stories,  with  outside  galleries,  which 
project  seven  feet,  with  an  interior  ascent  of  294 
stone  steps.  The  topmost  story  overhangs  the 
base  on  one  side  14  feet,  and  underneath  this 
point  Galileo  is  said  to  have  studied  the  principles 
of  gravity.  This  tower  was  erected  by  Bonanno  of 
Pisa,  in  1174,  and  has  probably  taken  its  present 
inclination  from  the  sinking  of  the  earth  at  its 
foundation,  although  the  Pisans  claim  it  to  have 
been  produced  by  a  miracle  of  architectural  skill. 

The  Cathedral  which  is  composed  of  a  variety 
of  marbles  has  several  old  paintings  and  fine 
statues,  while  in  the  nave  is  suspended  the  large 
bronze  lamp,  the  swinging  of  which  first  suggested 
to  Galileo  the  theory  of  the  pendulum. 

The  Baptistry  situated  opposite  the  Cathedral 


204  A    TOUR 

is  an  immense  circular  building  160  feet  in  height 
surmounted  by  a  cupola ;  its  interior  is  rich  in 
marbles  and  mosaics,  and  contains  a  pulpit  of 
exquisite  workmanship. 

The  Campo  Santo  is  the  most  ancient  burial 
ground  of  any  in  Italy,  and  the  earth  in  this  in- 
closure  was  brought  from  Jerusalem  in  50  galleys 
in  the  year  1228. 

In  the  Piazza  di  Cavalieri  is  the  Torre  della 
Fame,  or  Tower  of  Fame,  celebrated  by  Dante's 
description,  and  near  this  is  the  palace  Lanfranchi 
where  Lord  Byron  dwelt  with  the  Countess 
Guicioli,  and  wrote  his  Werner  and  Don  Juan. 

A  small  insignificant-looking  house  in  the  via 
Forbesas  bears  a  marble  slab  with  the  inscription  : 
"Galileo  Galilei  was  born  here  February  i8th, 
1564."  This  eminent  astronomer  and  inventor  of 
the  telescope,  undertook  in  Rome,  to  demonstrate 
the  theory  of  the  Solar  System  discovered  by 
Copernicus,  but  his  theories  being  in  advance  of 
the  unenlightened  age  in  which  he  lived,  aroused 
the  ire  of  the  priest-ridden  people,  and  he  was 
thrown  into  prison  and  compelled  to  deny  his 
principles ;  on  his  release,  however,  he  exclaimed  : 
" eppur  si  muove" — "but  it  does  move  after  all." 

The  rail  from  Pisa  to  Rome  passes  through 
Leghorn,  celebrated  for  its  manufacture  of  straw 
hats,  and  in  sight  of  the  small  island  where  Gari- 
baldi is  buried,  and  of  that  of  Elba,  the  scene  of 
Napoleon's  first  exile. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  20$ 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

ROME, ITS  ENVIRONS. 

ROME  is  the  most  celebrated  of  European  cities, 
famous  in  both  ancient  and  modern  history.  It 
was  once  the  capital  of  the  most  powerful  nation 
of  antiquity,  and  later  the  ecclesiastical  capital  of 
Christendom,  and  the  place  of  residence  of  the 
Pope;  since  1871  it  has  become  the  capital  of 
United  Italy  and  the  city  where  the  king  holds 
his  court. 

Rome  is  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Tiber, 
1 6  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  has  a  population  of 
250,000.  It  once  boasted  4,000,000  inhabitants, 
and  its  area  encompassed  seven  hills,  several  of 
which  are  now  marked  but  by  ruins  and  decay. 

The  origin  of  the  city  is  involved  in  mystery, 
but  the  generally  conceived  idea  is  that  it  was 
founded  753  years  B.  C.  by  Romulus  and  Remus 
who,  as  the  legend  runs,  were  found  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  by  a  she-wolf,  which  had  come  to 
drink  of  the  stream,  carried  them  into  her  den 
hard  by  and  suckled  them. 

The  Palatine  Hill  was  first  settled  by  a  Greek 
colony  under  Evander  2,000  years  B.  C.  and  was 
afterwards  the  site  of  the  city  founded  by  Romu- 


206  A   TOUR 

lus,  who  inclosed  it  with  a  square  wall,  which 
gave  it  the  name  of  Roma  quadrata.  Just  outside 
of  this  wall  was  the  sacred  boundary  over  which 
Remus  leaped  in  token  of  his  contempt,  and 
thereby  incurring  his  brother's  resentment  was 
slain  by  him. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  Empire  Augustus 
built  the  first  palace  on  the  Palatine,  to  which  were 
subsequently  added  those  of  Tiberius,  Caligula, 
Domitian,  and  Septimus  Severus,  and  consolidated 
into  one  is  called  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars. 
Among  the  ruins  of  this  palace  is  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Stator  where  the  Lares  and  Penates,  or 
household  gods,  were  enshrined ;  where  Nero 
condemned  St.  Paul  to  death,  and  where  Cicero 
delivered  his  first  scathing  denunciation  against 
Catiline ;  and  in  the  palace  of  Domitian  is  an 
amphitheatre  where  foot-races  and  other  sports 
took  place.  Near  by  is  the  Circus  Maximus, 
the  scene  of  the  rape  of  the  Sabines  by  the 
Romans. 

The  Capitoline  Hill  was  the  citadel  of  ancient 
Rome.  It  was  betrayed  by  Tarpeia,  the  daugh- 
ter of  the  warden  of  the  gates,  to  the  Sabines,  who 
entered  the  city,  and  after  a  time  reigned  jointly 
with  the  Romans.  It  was  in  this  citadel  that  were 
kept  the  sacred  geese  whose  cackling,  on  the  ap- 
proach of  the  Gauls,  aroused  the  garrison  and 
thus  saved  Rome  ;  and  it  was  from  the  Tarpeian 
Rock  that  the  Roman  commander  Marcus  Man- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  2O/ 

lius  on  this  occasion,  hurled  the  enemy  headlong 
down  the  precipice. 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Capitolinus  adjoins  the 
Senate-chamber  upon  the  steps  of  which  Rienzi  — 
the  last  of  the  Tribunes  —  fell  beneath  the  daggers 
of  the  populace  while  attempting  his  escape. 

The  Capitoline  Museum,  in  front  of  which 
there  is  a  fine  equestrian  statue  of  Marcus  Aure- 
lius,  and  also  of  the  twin  heroes  of  the  mythologi- 
cal era,  Castor  and  Pollux,  contains  the  following 
celebrated  statuary :  The  Dying  Gladiator,  the 
Faun  of  Praxiteles,  the  Venus  of  the  Capitol, 
Romulus  and  Remus  nursed  by  the  wolf,  heroic 
figures  of  Julius  and  Augustus  Caesar,  busts  of 
other  Roman  Emperors,  besides  a  beautiful  ancient 
mosaic  of  Pliny's  Doves. 

The  Roman  Forum,  which  occupies  the  low 
land  between  the  Palatine  and  Capitoline  hills, 
was  formerly  the  market-place  and  general  place 
of  assembly;  here  was  the  scene  of  important 
social,  religious,  and  political  events,  and  here 
were  grouped  the  finest  buildings  of  ancient 
Rome.  The  Forum  is  crossed  by  the  Via  Sacra, 
or  Sacred  Way,  over  which  the  household  gods 
were  carried  from  the  Palatine  to  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter  on  the  Capitoline,  and  where  returning 
victors  marched  in  triumphal  procession.  Its 
ruins  comprise  the  temples  of  the  Sun,  of  Saturn, 
Concord,  Janus,  Castor  and  Pollux,  Faustina,  and 
Vespasian ;  the  Colonnade  of  the  Twelve  Gods, 


208  A   TOUR 

the  column  of  Phocus,  the  Basilicas  Julia  and  Con- 
stantine,  the  house  of  Julius  Caesar,  the  Tabula- 
rium  —  or  House  of  Records,  —  and  the  arcltes  of 
Septimus  Severus,  Constantine,  and  Titus. 

The  Arch  of  Titus  has  on  one  side  a  bas-relief 
of  this  Emperor  returning  in  triumphal  procession 
from  Jerusalem,  while  on  the  other  is  a  representa- 
tion of  the  seven-branched  candlestick,  and 
through  this  arch  it  is  said  Josephus  marched,  a 
prisoner,  with  other  captives. 

The  Forum  was  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Vir- 
ginia, and  the  ruins  of  the  shop  where  Virginius 
snatched  the  knife  to  save  his  daughter's  honor,  is 
still  extant.  Here  is  the  rostrum  where  Mark 
Antony  made  his  oration  over  the  dead  body  of 
Julius  Caesar,  the  spot  where  it  was  burnt  and 
the  ashes  buried ;  also  the  rostrum  from  which 
Cicero  discoursed,  and  where,  after  his  death,  his 
head  and  hands  were  exposed  to  public  gaze. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Forurn  once  stood  a  column 
on  which  was  enscribed  the  distance  from  Rome, 
of  every  important  city  in  the  world ;  hence  the 
expression  used  :  "that  all  roads  lead  to  Rome." 

In  close  proximity  to  the  Forum  is  the  Ma- 
mertine  Prison  —  an  underground  donjon  where 
Saint  Peter  and  Saint  Paul  were  confined,  and  in 
it  is  a  spring  of  water  which  is  said,  gushed  forth 
to  enable  Saint  Peter  to  baptize  his  converted 
jailers. 

The    Colosseum,    a    vast    amphitheatre     was 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  209 

commenced  by  Vespasian  and  finished  by  Titus, 
A.  D.  80.  It  is  157  feet  high,  1,900  in  circum- 
ference, and  was  built  by  60,000  captive  Jews, 
who  were  engaged  ten  years  in  its  construction. 
It  once  seated  87,000  spectators,  the  seats  rising 
in  tiers  one  above  another ;  the  Emperor's  box 
occupied  a  prominent  position,  and  on  either  side 
of  it  sat  the  Senators  and  the  Vestal  Virgins. 
Beneath  are  subterranean  passages  and  chambers 
where  both  men  and  beasts  were  confined,  and 
whence  they  were  brought  into  the  arena  by 
means  of  elevators.  After  the  close  of  the 
gladiatorial  sports,  water  was  let  in  by  means  of 
aqueducts,  and  galleys  introduced  for  the  pur- 
pose of  representations  of  naval  engagements. 
At  the  inauguration  of  the  Colosseum,  the  festivi- 
ties of  which  lasted  100  days,  5,000  wild  beasts 
and  10,000  captives  were  slain  and  many  Chris- 
tian martyrs  perished. 

The  Golden  House  of  Nero,  so  called  from  its 
magnificence  and  splendor,  and  which  was  inlaid 
with  gold  and  mother-of-pearl,  still  shows  on  its 
walls  the  remains  of  exquisite  frescoes,  a  design 
from  which  was  adopted  by  Napoleon  for  the 
standard  of  his  army.  In  the  portico  stood  a 
colossal  bronze  statue  of  Nero  120  feet  in  height, 
the  mutilated  remains  of  which  are  now  to  be 
seen  in  the  capitol.  It  is  said  to  have  been  for 
the  purpose  of  enlarging  the  grounds  around  his 
palace  that  Nero  caused  a  portion  of  Rome  to  be 

14 


210  A   TOUR 

burned  :  his  name  was  so  obnoxious  to  the  people 
on  account  of  his  many  crimes,  that  after  his 
death  his  palace  was  partly  buried  under  ground, 
and  on  top  of  it  Titus  built  his  magnificent  and 
extensive  baths. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  formerly  the  mau- 
soleum of  Hadrian,  and  the  tomb  of  subsequent 
emperors  to  the  time  of  Septimus  Severus,  was 
during  the  middle  ages  converted  into  a  fortress 
and  prison.  In  its  donjon  cells  were  confined 
and  tortured  Galileo  and  Beatrice  Cenci,  and  the 
square  opposite  was  the  scene  of  the  execution  of 
that  unfortunate  girl.  The  Castle  is  now  con- 
nected with  the  Vatican  by  a  covered  passage, 
and  here  the  popes  take  refuge  in  times  of  trouble. 

The  Baths  of  Caracalla,  a -superb  ruin,  were 
built  by  that  emperor  in  212,  and  covered  140,- 
OOO  square  yards.  They  consisted  of  swimming, 
hot,  and  steam  baths,  with  an  accommodation  for 
1, 600  bathers,  and  were  surrounded  by  pleasure 
grounds  and  stadium — or  course  for  foot-races. 
Among  these  ruins  were  found  the  marble  group 
•of  the  Farnese  Bull. 

The  Vatican,  the  residence  of  the  Pope,  is  the 
largest  palace  in  the  world,  having  5,000  apart- 
ments and  20  Courts.  The  Sistine  chapel  con- 
tains the  Last  Judgment,  by  Michael  Angelo  —  a 
painting  60  feet  in  height  by  30  in  length.  The 
Library  has  120,000  volumes  and  manuscripts, 
besides  many  fine  vases,  and  the  largest  block  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  211 

malachite  known.  The  Gallery  of  Sculpture  and 
Painting  is  considered  one  of  the  most  complete 
and  valuable  in  existence,  and  comprises  among 
its  statuary  the  Apollo  Belvidere,  the  Laocoon, 
Ariadne,  and  Cleopatra  ;  among  the  paintings  are 
Raphael's  Transfiguration,  the  Communion  of 
St.  Jerome,  by  Domenichino ;  the  Baptism  of 
Constantine,  and  the  Crucifixion  of  St.  Peter,  by 
Guido  Reni.  In  the  Museum  are,  a  Roman 
chariot,  an  iron  grating  used  for  cremation,  the 
porphyry  sarcophagus  of  the  daughter  and  wife 
of  Constantine,  and  the  Pope's  state  carriage, 
containing  his  arm-chair,  and  a  seat  for  his  Prime 
Minister. 

Of  the  other  palaces  of  Rome  are,  the  Royal 
—  the  residence  of  the  King;  the  Barberini,  in 
which  are  the  portraits  of  Guido's  Beatrice  Cenci, 
and  Raphael's  Fornarina ;  the  Spada  where  is  the 
marble  statue  of  Pompey  —  formerly  in  the  Sen- 
ate-chamber—  at  the  base  of  which  "  great  Caesar 
fell ;"  the  Borghese,  with  a  valuable  collection  of 
old  and  rare  paintings ;  the  Rospigliosi,  which 
contains  Guido's  fresco  of  Aurora  strewing  flowers 
before  Apollo  in  his  chariot  of  the  Sun  ;  the  Far- 
nese,  once  the  residence  of  Pope  Paul  III.;  and 
the  Borghese  villa,  in  which  are  the  statues  of 
Pauline  Borghese,  by  Canova,  David  with  his  sling, 
and  Daphne  being  transformed  into  a  laurel  tree. 

St.  Peter's,  the  great  marvel  of  ecclesiastical 
architecture,  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  Basilica 


212  A   TOUR 

erected  by  Constantine  upon  that  of  the  Circus  of 
Nero,  and  on  the  very  spot  consecrated  by  the 
blood  of  the  martyrs  slaughtered  by  order  of  that 
tyrant.  The  present  edifice  was  begun  during  the 
reign  of  Pope  Julius  in  1506,  and  completed  at  a 
cost  of  $6o,OOO,OOO,  the  architects  being  Bra- 
mante  and  Michael  Angelo.  It  is  built  of  white 
traverstine  stone,  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  is 
607  feet  in  length,  448  in  height,  and  covers  8 
acres  of  ground.  At  its  entrance  are  the  eques- 
trian statues  of  Constantine  and  Charlemagne,  and 
its  dome  is  surmounted  by  a  ball  capable  of  hold- 
ing sixteen  people.  In  the  interior  are  46  altars 
and  400  statues  of  saints  and  popes,  while  the 
dome  and  walls  are  covered  with  beautiful  mar- 
bles and  glass  mosaic  pictures.  In  the  centre  of 
the  church  is  a  bronze  baldachino  over  the  re- 
mains of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul ;  at  the  extreme 
end  is  the  gilded  tribune  containing  the  chair  of 
St.  Peter,  while  his  statue  in  bronze  is  an  object  of 
great  veneration  to  the  devout,  whose  kisses, 
through  successive  generations,  have  considerably 
reduced  the  proportions  of  the  toe.  In  the  Sa- 
cristy are  the  robes  of  the  pope —  14  in  number 
—  and  the  crown  and  mitre  of  St.  Peter,  with 
which,  on  rare  occasions,  his  statue  is  adorned. 

St.  Paul's,  next  to  St.  Peter's,  is  the  most 
magnificent  church  in  Rome.  It  is  rich  in  varie- 
gated marbles,  malachite  altars,  oriental  alabaster 
pillars,  besides  80  granite  columns,  and  261  mo- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  213 

saic  medallions  of  the  popes,  from  St.  Peter  to 
Leo  XIII. 

Of  the  remaining  365  churches  in  Rome,  may 
be  mentioned  that  of  St.  John  Lateran,  where 
the  coronation  of  the  popes  take  place,  and  in 
whose  Baptistry  Charlemagne  was  crowned.  It 
was  in  its  font  that  Constantine  was  baptized,  and 
Rienzi  bathed,  for  which  sacrilegious  act  he  was 
excommunicated  by  the  Church. 

In  a  building  opposite  is  the  Scala  Santa  —  or 
Holy  Staircase,  supposed  to  be  those  of  Pilate's 
house  which  Christ  was  compelled  to  ascend  to 
receive  sentence.  On  the  steps  are  spots  of  His 
blood  which  are  reverently  kissed  by  those  who 
following  His  footsteps,  ascend  on  their  knees. 
Down  this  stairway,  contrary  to  usage,  Luther 
walked,  in  defiance  of  the  superstitious  reverence 
of  the  Catholics. 

The  Pantheon  —  as  its  name  signifies  —  was 
formerly  a  Pagan  temple,  in  niches  of  which  once 
stood  statues  of  gods  and  goddesses,  now  a  mau- 
soleum for  the  late  King  Victor  Emanuel  II.,  and 
for  Raphael  the  artist ;  once  the  scene  of  the  dei- 
fication of  heroes,  and  again  that  of  the  canoniza- 
tion of  martyrs. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Maria  dei  Angeli,  built  on 
the  site  of  the  Baths  of  Diocletian,  contains  several 
fine  paintings,  and  an  ancient  sun  meridian  on  the 
pavement. 

The  Church  of  St.  Peter-in-chains  has  Michael 


214  A    TOUR 

Angelo's  statue  of  Moses,  and  contains  the  chains 
which  once  bound  St.  Peter. 

In  the  Church  of  St.  Maria  della  Concezione 
is  Guido  Reni's  famous  painting  of  St.  Michael, 
and  in  its  vaults  are  the  remains  of  4,000  departed 
Capuchin  monks  whose  skeletons  are  ranged  in 
hideous  and  ghastly  attitudes. 

The  Church  of  St.  Sebastiana  is  over  the  Cata- 
combs where  St.  Sebastian  is  buried,  and  contains 
one  of  the  arrows  with  which  he  was  pierced,  and 
a  stone  bearing  a  footprint  of  Christ. 

Among  other  points  of  interest  in  Rome  are 
the  Temple  of  Vesta  where  the  Vestal  Virgins 
guarded  the  sacred  fire,  the  Mausoleum  of  Au- 
gustus now  a  circus,  the  Theatre  of  Marcellus  now 
the  palace  of  the  Orsini,  the  Temples  of  Juno  and 
Minerva,  the  Portico  of  Octavia,  the  Baths  of 
Agrippa  and  of  Diocletian,  the  Temple  of  Fortune, 
the  Theatre  and  Senate-hall  of  Pompey  —  the 
place  where  Caesar  fell,  the  Villa  of  Sallust,  the 
Aqueduct  of  Nero,  the  Column  of  Marcus  Aure- 
lius,  the  Obelisk  of  Augustus  Caesar,  the  houses 
of  Rienzi,  Beatrice  Cenci,  and  Tasso,  in  the  latter 
of  which  the  poet  died,  the  Fountain  of  Treve,  the 
Forums  of  Augustus,  Nerva,  Domitian,  and  Tra- 
jan, —  the  latter  containing  the  column  from 
which  Napoleon  modelled  the  Column  Vendome, 
and  the  remains  of  the  Sublician  Bridge  which  was 
defended  by  Horatio  alone. 

While  in  Rome  we  were  especially  favored  by 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  215 

an  audience  with  his  holiness  Pope  Leo  XIII. 
The  stipulated  written  requirements  of  toilet  were, 
for  gentlemen,  full  dress,  for  ladies,  black,  with  lace 
mantillas  of  the  same  sombre  hue  covering  the 
head. 

Arriving  at  the  Vatican  we  passed  the  Swiss 
Guard,  in  their  gay  striped  uniforms,  and  were 
ushered  by  attendants  in  red  satin  and  knee- 
breeches  through  several  apartments  until  we 
reached  the  one  in  which  we  were  left  to  await  the 
entrance  of  the  Pope.  As  he  entered,  surrounded 
by  his  cardinals,  all  present  knelt,  comformably  to 
etiquette,  while  he  passed  around  the  circle  laying 
his  hand  in  blessing  upon  the  bowed  head  of  each 
of  his  visitors.  The  more  devout  kissing  his  foot 
and  the  hem  of  his  garment.  Pope  Leo  XIII.  is. 
a  man  of  70,  tall,  slender,  and  very  frail,  so  weak 
as  to  be  unable  to  walk  without  assistance. 

We  also  witnessed  the  Carnival  in  Rome 
which  begins  several  days  before  the  commence- 
ment of  Lent.  The  balconies  on  the  Corso  were 
decorated  with  bright-colored  bunting,  and 
thronged  with  grotesquely-costumed  masquerad- 
ers.  Certain  days  are  allotted  for  the  throwing  of 
flowers  and  confetti,  but  horse- racing  down  the 
Corso  being  now  abandoned,  this  festival  has  lost 
much  of  its  zest,  and  though  mask  balls  take 
place  every  night,  and  other  amusements  are 
indulged  in,  the  Carnival  is  altogether  inferior  to 
that  of  many  other  cities. 


2l6  A    TOUR 

The  Appian  way,  which  extends  from  Rome 
to  Brindisi,  was  first  made  in  312  B.  C,  by  Appius 
Claudius.  It  was  bordered  with  temples,  villas,  and 
tombs,  for  it  was  the  custom  of  the  Romans  to 
bury  their  dead  on  either  side  of  the  principal 
roads  leading  from  the  city.  The  monuments  yet 
remaining  are  the  Columbraria,  or  Pagan  Sepul- 
chre, which  is  an  underground  chamber  with 
niches  in  the  walls  where  were  placed  the  cin- 
erary urns ;  the  tomb  of  the  Scipios,  and  that  of 
Caecelia  Metella,  daughter  of  Crassus.  On  the 
Via  Appia  are  also  the  Circus  Maximus,  where 
the  chariot  races  occurred,  and  the  aqueducts  of 
Claudius  and  Marcia. 

Tivoli  is  a  Sabine  town  nestling  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains.  Near  it  are  the  romantic  villages 
of  Santangelo  and  Monticelli,  and  en  route  from 
Rome  are  passed  the  camping  ground  of  Hanni- 
bal; Palatio,  where  Lucretia  killed  herself,  un- 
able to  survive  her  dishonor,  and  Gabbi,  which 
was  taken  by  the  Romans  under  Tarquin  through 
the  artifices  of  his  son  Sextus. 

Hadrian's  Villa,  on  the  slopes  of  Tivoli,  once 
covered  an  area  of  several  square  miles.  Its  mag- 
nificent grounds  unequalled  in  the  Roman  Em- 
pire, were  designed  by  Hadrian  to  combine 
models  of  all  that  had  most  pleased  him  during 
his  travels  ;  accordingly  they  comprised  palaces, 
temples,  theatres,  circuses,  and  many  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  statuary.  This  mundane  paradise 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


was  destroyed  by  the  Goths  in  the  6th  century, 
and  many  of  the  finest  of  the  antique  statues  were 
uncovered  from  beneath  these  ruins. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

NAPLES  :  VESUVIUS  :  HERCULANEUM  :  POMPEII  :  CAS- 
TELLAMARE  :  SORRENTO  :  CAPRI  :  CASERTA  :  BRIN- 
DISI. 

NAPLES,  which  was  founded  by  a  Greek  colony 
1 ,000  years  B.  C.,  has  450,000  inhabitants,  and 
though  prettily  situated  on  the  curves  of  the  bay 
which  bears  the  same  name,  is  not  so  fascinating 
that  one  would  wish  to  "see  Naples  and  die." 
Approaching  from  the  sea,  the  city  at  a  distance, 
stretching  lazily  down  to  the  blue  waters,  with  the 
old  fortress  of  St.  Elmo  towering  in  the  back- 
ground and  mighty  Vesuvius  standing  sentinel,  as 
it  has  stood  since  the  beginning  of  time,  is  ex- 
tremely picturesque,  but  on  closer  view  the  pleas- 
ing illusion  is  dispelled.  The  streets,  with  few 
exceptions,  are  narrow  and  filthy ;  the  houses  are 
of  several  stories  and  swarming  with  occupants — 
many  families  huddled  under  one  roof — poor, 
ragged,  and  uncleanly. 

The  Neapolitans  as  a  class  are  apparently  de- 
void of  feeling,  as  is  evidenced  by  their  cruelty  to 


218  A   TOUR 

their  beasts  of  burden ;  a  characteristic  feature 
being  their  country  wagons  loaded  with  from 
twenty  to  thirty  people  and  drawn  by  one  poor, 
staggering  animal. 

A  strange  sight  witnessed  on  the  streets  of 
Naples  is  a  funeral  procession.  The  coffin  —  the 
corpse  often  exposed  to  view  —  is  borne  on  an 
open  bier  by  monks  of  the  order  of  Misericorde 
concealed  underneath  the  velvet  pall,  while  pre- 
ceding and  following  it  are  others  bearing  lighted 
candles,  and  completely  enveloped  in  white  gar- 
ments in  which  are  small  openings  for  the  eyes. 

This  city  is  celebrated  for  its  manufacture  of 
corals,  shell,  and  maccaroni ;  the  latter  is  a  favor- 
ite article  of  diet  with  the  lazzaroni  who  may  be 
seen  swallowing  it  by  the  yard,  as  they  lounge 
about  the  streets. 

The  fashionable  drive  extends  for  several 
miles  along  the  bay,  and  is  bordered  on  one 
side  by  the  National  Park ;  here  large  crowds 
congregate  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  to  admire 
the  views  and  enjoy  the  refreshing  breeze  from 
the  sea. 

In  Naples  are  the  fine  marble  statue  of  Dante, 
and  the  equestrian  figures,  in  bronze,  of  Charles 
III.  and  of  Ferdinand  I. 

The  Royal  Palace  is  of  no  special  interest, 
but  adjoining  it  is  the  Theatre  of  San  Carlo,  at 
the  entrance  of  which  are  the  bronze  horses  pre- 
sented by  the  Emperor  Nicholas  of  Russia. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  219 

The  Castle  of  St.  Elmo  is  built  on  a  high  hill 
overlooking  the  city.  It  was  erected  by  Robert 
the  Wise  in  1343,  and  its  numerous  historic  remin- 
iscences of  love  and  daring  render  it  an  object  of 
interest  to  the  romantically  inclined. 

The  Cathedral  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site 
of  the  Temple  of  Apollo,  and  contains  the 
tombs  of  Charles  I.  of  Anjou,  and  of  Charles 
Martel  and  his  wife  Clementina  of  Hapsburg. 

The  Grotto  of  Posilippo  is  an  old  Roman  tun- 
nel 750  yards  long  and  60  feet  high,  on  the  road 
between  Naples  and  Puteoli.  Over  the  entrance 
of  this  tunnel  is  the  tomb  of  Virgil  —  a  chamber 
containing  IO  niches  for  cinerary  urns,  that  of 
Virgil  having  once,  it  is  said,  occupied  the  centre 
of  the  sepulchre. 

The  National  Museum  of  Naples  is  interesting 
and  extensive,  comprising  large  collections  of 
paintings,  mosaics,  statues,  frescoes,  and  inscrip- 
tions, many  of  which  were  found  in  the  excava- 
tions made  in  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  Here 
are  the  Farnese  Bull,  considered  one  of  the  finest 
groups  of  ancient  art ;  the  Psyche  of  Capua — 
which  inspired  Bulwer's  conception  of  lone  ; — the 
Dancing  Faun  ;  a  mosaic  pavement  bearing  the 
figure  of  a  dog,  from  the  house  of  Glaucus;  shop- 
signs  from  Pompeii ;  and  the  marble  pillar,  which 
stood  in  its  forum,  upon  which  is  a  bronze  plate 
that  once  served  as  a  bulletin  board ;  also  the  re- 
mains of  fruit,  milk,  loaves  of  bread,  a  variety  of 


22O  A   TOUR 

household  utensils,  and  a  Roman  calendar  on  a 
square  block  of  marble,  each  side  embracing  the 
period  of  three  months. 

Taking  a  conveyance  with  three  horses,  from 
Naples  we  drove  a  distance  of  6  miles  to  Hercu- 
laneum.  This  town,  which  with  Pompeii  was 
overwhelmed  by  an  eruption  of  Vesuvius,  unlike 
the  latter  was  buried  under  lava,  to  the  depth  of 
80  feet,  which  in  cooling  acquired  the  consistency 
of  stone,  rendering  excavations  virtually  imprac- 
ticable ;  so  far  the  principal  building  unearthed  is 
the  theatre  which  once  seated  10,000  people. 

From  Herculaneum  we  commenced  the  ascent 
of  Vesuvius,  the  road  winding  for  five  miles  up 
the  mountain  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  stretch  of  lava 
in  its  various  stages  of  induration.  At  the  foot  of 
the  cone  a  chain-railway  ascends  almost  perpen- 
dicularly a  distance  of  one  mile ;  from  here  we 
were  borne  in  chairs  on  the  shoulders  of  excited 
Neapolitans  to  the  crater.  At  this  point  the 
ground  was  a  mass  of  steaming,  yellow  sulphur ; 
sulphurous  clouds,  with  their  asphyxiating  fumes, 
hovered  around,  wavering  and  dispersing  here  and 
there  before  the  violence  of  the  ascending  flame. 
Up  from  the  seething  cauldron  of  the  crater,  red- 
hot  stones  and  liquid  lava  were  thrown  with 
incredible  force  high  in  air ;  and  far  below,  from 
the  very  bowels  of  the  earth,  issued  low,  rumbling, 
ominous  sounds,  all  uniting  in  one  vivid  concep- 
tion of  hell. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  221 

Pompeii,  which  contained  40,000  inhabitants, 
was  overwhelmed  A.  D.  79,  by  an  eruption  of 
Vesuvius,  and  remained  buried  under  the  ashes 
for  1,700  years.  Walking  through  this  dead  city, 
its  silent  streets,  which  are  well  paved,  though 
worn  in  deep  ruts  by  the  wheels  of  chariots,  its 
sidewalks  bordered  with  straight  lines  of  houses 
and  shops  in  a  surprising  state  of  preservation, 
one  almost  expects  to  meet  the  inhabitants  at 
every  turn.  Here  are  public  buildings  —  the 
Forum  with  its  temples  and  basilicas;  theatres  for 
tragedy  and  comedy ;  shops,  with  their  fixtures 
and  utensils;  baths,  fountains,  the  Temple  of  Isis, 
houses  of  pleasure  with  the  frescoes  still  visible 
upon  their  walls;  private  residences  from  the  cot- 
tage of  the  poor  to  the  mansion  of  the  patrician, 
including  those  of  Arbaces  the  Egyptian,  Glaucus 
the  tragic  poet,  lone,  and  Sallust,  and  the  Villa  of 
Diomedes  the  wealthy,  an  edifice  twelve  stories 
in  height,  in  whose  cellars  17  human  bodies  were 
found  in  various  attitudes  showing  their  efforts  to 
escape. 

Leading  from  the  Herculaneum  Gate  is  the 
Street  of  Tombs  lined  on  either  side  by  sepul- 
chral monuments. 

Castellamare  occupies  the  site  of  Stabia,  which 
was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  A.  D.  79 :  from 
here  we  witnessed  the  strange  and  fearful  sight  of 
a  river  of  red-hot  lava  rolling  slowly  down  the 
sides  of  Vesuvius. 


222  A    TOUR 

The  drive  from  here  to  Sorrento  is  a  delightful 
one,  skirting  the  blue  shores  of  the  bay,  winding 
along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  crossing  ravines 
and  passing  picturesque  villages. 

Sorrento,  with  a  fine  view  of  Vesuvius  and  the 
Bay  of  Naples,  is  celebrated  as  the  birthplace  of 
Tasso —  1544-  Here  the  Tarantella  is  danced  in 
all  its  original  grace  and  vivacity  by  the  peasants 
in  their  picturesque  costumes. 

The  Island  of  Capri,  ten  miles  from  Sorrento, 
is  1980  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is 
chiefly  noted  for  its  Blue  Grotto.  This  is  an  in- 
terior space  160x80  feet  in  extent,  and  40  feet  in 
height  above  the  water,  which  is  8  fathoms  deep.  It 
is  entered  by  an  aperture  only  three  feet  high  — 
ingress  being  impossible  during  high  tide  —  and 
the  visitor  is  compelled  to  recline  in  the  boat  as 
it  passes  tinder  the  low  portal.  The  Grotto  is 
lighted  only  from  the  opening,  and  the  reflection 
from  the  deep-blue  water  gives  a  weird  and  indes- 
cribable effect  to  the  scene. 

Brindisi,  once  the  great  seaport  town  of  the 
Romans  on  the  Adriatic,  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Via  Appia,  and  is  noted  as  the  place  where  Caesar 
beseiged  Pompey,  and  where  Virgil  died  19  B.  C. 

Taking  steamer  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Line,  at  Brindisi,  we  skirted  the  shores  of  Albania 
and  Greece,  passing  the  islands  of  Corfu,  Kepha- 
lonia,  and  Crete,  arriving,  after  a  three  days' 
sail,  on  the  coast  of  Africa 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  223 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

ALEXANDRIA  :  CAIRO  I  HELIOPOLIS  I  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH  : 
THE    NILE  I    TEL-EL-KEBIR  :    PORT    SAID. 

ALEXANDRIA,  situated  on  a  peninsula  between 
Lake  Mareotis  and  the  sea,  was  founded  by  Alex- 
ander the  Great,  332  B.  C.  It  was  once  celebrated 
for  its  library  of  700,000  volumes,  which  was 
established  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  284  B.  C., 
and  partly  destroyed  by  Julius  Caesar ;  also  for 
its  lighthouse  Pharos,  the  seventh  wonder  of  the 
world. 

It  was  in  Alexandria  the  Christian  religion 
first  took  root,  and  here  St.  Mark  preached  the 
Gospel. 

One  of  the  few  relics  of  antiquity  yet  remain- 
ing is  Pompey's  Pillar  —  a  red  granite  column  100 
feet  high,  on  which  is  a  Greek  inscription  showing 
that  it  was  erected  by  Publius,  prefect  of  Egypt, 
in  honor  of  Diocletian  who  besieged  and  took 
Alexandria,  296  A.  D. 

Its  population  numbered  at  one  time  500,000, 
but  the  present  census  shows  only  212,000  inhabi- 
tants. The  city  has  many  fine  streets  and  build- 
ings, but  the  heart  of  it  is  in  ruins,  having  been 
burned  by  Arabi's  soldiers  on  evacuating,  and  the 


224  A   TOUR 

fortifications  surrounding  the  city  were  dismantled 
by  the  English  in  the  late  bombardment. 

The  rail  from  Alexandria  to  Cairo — a  distance 
of  131  miles  —  runs  parallel  with  the  canal  and 
wagon  road,  and  affords  scenes  of  varied  interest: 
here  groups  of  natives  scantily  clothed ;  there 
caravans  laden  with  merchandise ;  and  frequently 
an  immense  camel,  a  buffalo,  and  a  tiny  donkey 
yoked  together  to  a  primitive  wooden  plough,  or 
employed  turning  a  sakieh  —  a  wheel  upon 
which  are  fastened  earthen  jugs  to  dip  up  water  for 
irrigating  purposes.  Again  at  short  distances  is 
seen  the  shadoof, — a  long  pole  balanced  on  an  up- 
right one,  at  one  end  of  which  is  a  weight,  and  on 
the  other  a  vessel  which  is  lowered  into  the  water 
and  raised  filled ;  and  a  still  more  primitive 
mode  of  irrigation  is  that  of  men  dipping  up  the 
water  in  mat  baskets  and  pouring  it  over  the 
earth,  while  others  direct  its  course  with  their 
bare  feet,  as  described  in  the  Bible. 

Cairo,  founded  by  the  Arabs,  is  situated  near 
the  right  bank  of  the  Nile,  and  has  a  population 
of  350,000.  It  is  the  largest  city  in  Africa,  and 
the  residence  of  the  Khedive,  and  next  to  Con- 
stantinople the  most  important  city  of  the  Mo- 
hammedan world. 

Cairo  is  built  on  low  ground,  partly  surrounded 
by  low,  rugged,  and  barren  hills.  Many  of  its 
streets  are  wide,  well  paved,  and  bordered  with 
tropical  trees,  and  its  hundreds  of  mosques  and 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  225 

minarets  viewed  from  an  eminence,  combine  to 
make  a  picture  of  Oriental  beauty :  but  the  pas- 
sage-ways of  the  older,  native  portion  of  the  city 
are  narrow,  dirty,  and  crowded,  and  it  is  both  dif- 
ficult and  disagreeable  to  thread  one's  way  through 
its  swarms  of  debased  humanity. 

On  the  streets  of  Cairo  one  sees  Oriental  life  in 
its  native  aspect ;  the  various  sects  and  ranks 
arrayed  in  their  distinctive  garbs,  the  ladies  of  the 
harems — attended  by  the  inevitable  black  eunuchs 
—  richly  dressed  and  be-jewelled,  with  thin  gauze 
covering  their  faces  below  the  eyes,  and  their 
finger-nails  stained  with  the  red  henna;  the  fat 
Turk  astride  a  small  donkey  whose  deafening  bray 
protests,  to  the  extent  of  its  no  small  ability, 
against  the  thickly  falling  blows  of  the  urchin  who 
follows  on  behind  for  that  purpose  ;  hundreds  of 
camels  moaning  under  their  heavy  loads;  the 
water-carriers  selling  water  from  their  dirty  goat- 
skins ;  the  oil  dealers  with  their  primitive  jars, 
recalling  so  vividly  the  story  of  the  Forty 
Thieves  ;  and  the  grand  official  in  his  equipage 
before  which  run  two  bare-legged  Arabs  in  gold- 
embroidered  jackets,  loose  white  trousers,  and  red 
fez,  with  long  sticks  in  their  hands,  shouting,  in 
loud  tones,  a  command  to  clear  the  way  for  the 
high  and  mighty  Somebody ;  all  of  which  gives 
a  suggestion  of  out-door  life  at  Cairo,  and  recalls 
at  every  turn  vivid  scenes  from  the  Arabian 
Nights. 

15 


226  A   TOUR 

The  people  as  a  class,  are  filthy,  ignorant,  and 
mendicant,  and  owing  to  the  combined  influences 
of  indolence  and  cowardice,  the  men  mutilate 
themselves  in  order  to  avoid  being  drafted  into 
the  army.  The  turban  is  held  in  high  favor  by 
the  Egyptian,  especially  by  the  fellahs  :  it  con- 
sists of  a  light,  white  material  wound  around  the 
fez,  and  is  always  of  sufficient  length  to  be  con- 
verted into  a  shroud.  The  women  are  partial  to 
jewelry,  often  wearing  rings  in  their  noses.  They 
carry  their  infants  astride  their  left  shoulder  or 
hip,  and  the  children,  not  being  allowed  to  brush 
the  flies  from  their  faces  owing  to  some  religious 
prejudice,  are  consequently  generally  blind  or  sore- 


The  bazaars  occupy  several  squares  of  the  nar- 
rowest streets  which  are  roofed  over  with  straw 
mats  and  palm-leaves  effectually  excluding  the 
glare  and  heat  of  the  sun.  The  shops  are  two  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  street,  and  are  from  five  to 
ten  feet  square,  each  one  having  its  own  specialty, 
and  the  aggregate  presenting  an  array  of  almost 
every  commodity  desired. 

The  Citadel  stands  on  a  high  hill,  and  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  city.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  and  in  its  inclosure  is  the  palace  of  the 
pasha,  and  the  magnificent  mosque  of  Mohammed 
AH,  built  of  Oriental  alabaster,  and  the  finest  in 
Egypt.  Within  the  citadel  is  Joseph's  Well  —  a 
square  shaft  15  feet  across  and  280  deep  —  cut  in 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  22/ 

the  solid  rock,  at  the  bottom  of  which  donkeys 
are  kept  at  work  forcing  the  water  to  the  top. 
This  well  is  supposed  to  be  the  work  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians  and  was  discovered  by  the  Sultan 
Saladin  while  erecting  the  citadel,  who  called  it 
Yusef — or  Joseph  —  after  himself.  It  was  from 
the  outer  wall  of  this  citadel  that  occurred  the 
memorable  leap  of  the  mameluke  Emin  Bey,  who 
being  entrapped,  with  300  of  his  comrades,  by 
Mohammed  Ali,  and  seeing  them  all  perish  before 
his  eyes,  urged  his  horse  over  the  precipice  to  the 
frightful  depths  below,  and  thus  effected  his 
escape. 

The  Mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan  is  considered 
the  finest  existing  specimen  of  Arabian  architec- 
ture, and  its  high  dome  and  lofty  minarets  present 
a  majestic  appearance.  It  is  said  the  Sultan  was  so 
much  pleased  with  its  construction  that  he  caused 
the  hands  of  the  architect  to  be  cut  off  to  prevent 
him  from  designing  another  like  it. 

The  Mosque  of  Tayloon,  the  most  ancient  in 
Cairo,  is  partly  in  ruins  and  according  to  one 
legend  occupies  the  spot  where  Abraham  sacri- 
ficed the  goat  in  place  of  his  son  Isaac,  and  is 
called  Kal-at-el-Rebsh  —  or  Castle  of  the  Goat. 
Another  legend  points  out  this  spot  as  being  the 
place  where  Noah's  ark  ran  aground  on  the  loth 
of  Moharrem  which  is  the  first  month  of  the 
Arabian  year,  and  observed  as  a  great  festival  in 
this  country. 


228  A    TOUR 

The  Palace  of  Shoobra,  in  whose  court  there  is 
a  small  lake  around  which  are  ranged  divans 
where  the  Sultan  and  his  suite  were  wont  to  lounge, 
sipping  their  coffee  and  smoking  their  nargileh, 
was  the  summer  residence  of  Mohammed  Ali.  It 
is  four  miles  beyond  the  city  precincts,  and  is 
reached  by  a  beautiful  avenue  shaded  on  either 
side  by  the  flowering  acacia.  This  is  the  favorite 
drive  of  the  people  of  Cairo,  and  on  a  Sunday  af- 
ternoon the  Khedive  may  be  seen  there  in  royal 
state,  escorted  by  a  mounted  guard. 

The  tombs  of  the  Mamelukes  and  Caliphs  at 
the  foot  of  the  citadel  resemble  miniature  mos- 
ques, and  are  not  only  picturesque  in  appearance 
but  are  interesting  from  their  historic  associa- 
tions. 

Old  Cairo,  which  is  a  short  distance  from  the 
new  city,  and  now  almost  a  mass  of  ruins,  is  built 
on  the  site  of  new  Babylon,  which  was  founded  by 
the  Babylonians  in  the  year  525  B.  C. 

The  Jewish  Synagogue  is  claimed  by  the  Jews 
to  have  been  the  place  where  Elijah  once  ap- 
peared, and  where  Moses  prayed  for  the  cessation 
of  the  seventh  plague  of  lightning  and  hail.  In 
a  niche,  within  this  edifice,  guarded  with  jealous 
care  is  a  scroll  of  the  Thorah  said  to  be  written 
by  the  hand  of  Ezra. 

The  old  Coptic  Church  contains  some  very 
ancient  pictures,  and  carvings  in  wood  and  ivory, 
and  is  built  over  a  subterranean  cave  in  which 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  22Q 

Joseph  and  Mary  with  the  Infant  Jesus  dwelt  for 
a  time  on  reaching  Egypt  after  the  Flight. 

The  Boolak  Museum  has  the  finest  collection 
of  Egyptian  antiquities  in  the  world,  comprising 
sarcophagi,  mummies,  hieroglyphics,  statues, 
sphinxes,  ornaments  and  other  relics  found  in  the 
tombs  and  temples  of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 
Among  the  objects  most  noted  are  the  mummy 
of  Rameses  II. —  supposed  to  be  the  Pharaoh  of 
the  Exodus, —  and  the  Village  Sheik  —  a  wooden 
statue  said  to  be  thousands  of  years  old.  In  a 
granite  sarcophagus  lie  the  remains  of  Mariette 
Bey,  who  devoted  his  life  to  unearthing  these  relics. 

The  island  of  Rhodda  is  in  the  Nile,  directly 
opposite  ancient  Cairo,  and  contains  the  Nilo- 
meter  —  a  graduated  stone  pillar  40  feet  high, 
covered  with  measures  indicating  the  rise  and  fall 
of  the  river,  and  is  placed  in  a  well  some  20  feet 
square,  and  50  deep.  The  minimum  tide  of  the 
river  is  32  feet;  40  feet  is  considered  the  desirable 
medium  ;  and  the  maximum  of  42  entails  incal- 
culable destruction.  In  August  when  the  Nile 
is  sufficiently  high  for  irrigating  purposes,  the 
embankment  of  the  river  is  cut,  and  the  ceremony 
attended  with  great  rejoicing  and  festivities.  On 
the  upper  end  of  the  island  of  Rhodda  is  located 
the  spot  where  Moses  was  found  in  the  bulrushes 
by  Pharaoh's  daughter. 

The  Howling  Dervishes  comprise  a  religious 
sect  who  meet  in  their  temple  every  Friday — the 


230  A    TOUR 

Mohammedan  Sabbath  —  for  the  celebration  of 
their  religious  rites.  Forming  a  circle  around 
the  priest,  they  frantically  sway  their  bodies  back 
and  forth  to  the  frightful  accompaniment  of  their 
howls  and  wails,  and  the  beating  of  tabors,  a 
species  of  drum.  Many  of  these  are  old  men, 
half-clad,  with  long  white  hair  waving  with  the 
motion  of  their  swaying  bodies. 

The  Kieswah  is  a  Holy  Carpet  which  Cairo 
sends  to  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca,  once  a  year.  This 
is  conveyed  on  th'e  back  of  a  camel,  and  escorted 
by  thousands  of  pilgrims;  who,  on  their  return, 
deeming  themselves  prepared  to  die,  prostrate 
themselves  on  the  ground,  to  be  trampled  under 
foot  by  a  horse  ridden  by  the  Sheik  ;  and  blessed 
is  the  man  whose  injuries  are  the  most  severe. 

The  ancient  city  of  Heliopolis  —  an  hour's 
drive  from  Cairo,  is  marked  only  by  a  single 
obelisk  of  red  granite,  70  feet  in  height,  supposed 
to  be  the  oldest  extant. 

Near  this  are  the  Tree  and  Well  of  the  Virgin, 
where  the  Holy  Family  first  rested  after  their 
Flight  into  Egypt.  In  this  neighborhood  grew 
the  celebrated  Balsam  shrub,  the  balm  of  which 
is  said  to  have  been  presented  to  Solomon  by 
the  Queen  of  Sheba. 

The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh,  a  drive  of  an  hour 
and  a  half  from  Cairo,  are  nine  in  number,  and 
surrounded  by  ruins  of  temples  and  tombs  partly 
buried  beneath  the  sands  of  centuries.  These 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  231 

monuments,  which  are  supposed  to  be  the  tombs 
of  early  Egyptian  kings,  are  built  of  enormous 
stone  blocks,  and  were  originally  covered  with 
white  marble  casings.  Of  this  number  three 
are  of  immense  proportions,  the  largest  being 
classed  among  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world. 

Cheops,  the  largest  of  these  pyramids  is  820 
feet  across  its  base  on  each  of  its  four  sides ;  and 
470  feet  in  height,  not  including  15  feet  already 
lost  from  the  apex,  which  leaves  a  flat  surface  of 
1 20  square  yards.  The  interior  is  entered  by  a 
small  opening  48  feet  from  the  ground ;  first 
through  a  long  descending  inclined  passage  of 
polished  granite  at  an  angle  of  26  degrees  which 
afterwards  ascends  as  abruptly,  and  leads  to  the 
King's  Chamber.  This  room  is  the  largest  in  the 
pyramid,  being  19  feet  high,  17  wide,  and  34 
long;  and  is  of  polished  granite.  In  it  is  a  stone 
sarcophagus  which  is  supposed  to  have  contained 
the  mummy  of  a  king,  or  ancient  records.  On 
each  side  of  this  room  are  air-tubes  for  purposes 
of  ventilation ;  and  above  it  are  five  small  cham- 
bers difficult  of  access.  At  the  end  of  the  Great 
Hall  which  is  155  feet  long  and  28  high,  is  a  pas- 
sage leading  to  the  Queen's  Chamber  ;  and  a  shaft 
150  feet  deep,  known  as  the  well,  which  descends 
to  the  lower  passage,  and  connects  with  a  sub- 
terranean chamber.  The  difficult  ascent  of  this 
pyramid  we  accomplished  with  the  aid  of  four 
Bedouin  Arabs,  each;  one  at  each  hand,  above, 


232  A   TOUR 

to  pull,  and  two  others  below,  to  push.  The 
descent  was  scarcely  less  perilous :  with  a  strong 
rope  about  our  waists,  held  by  one  of  our  Bed- 
ouins while  the  others  lent  support,  we  jumped 
from  block  to  block,  scarcely  daring  to  look  be- 
low, lest  a  misstep  should  hurl  us  into  Eternity. 

An  exploration  of  the  interior  of  the  pyramid 
though  attended  by  less  danger,  is  accompanied 
by  a  far  greater  degree  of  discomfort,  owing  to 
the  foul  air,  heat,  and  darkness. 

While  many  scientists  believe  these  to  have 
been  constructed  as  mausolea  for  the  Pharaohs, 
others  contend  they  were  built  before  the  flood, 
for  astronomical  purposes,  or  as  receptacles  for 
historical  archives.  These  gigantic  structures 
will  yet,  in  all  probability  yield  up  to  the  world 
the  secrets  of  past  ages,  for  in  exploring  Cheops 
soundings  in  its  interior  developed  the  fact  of  the 
existence  of  chambers  yet  unrevealed. 

The  Sphinx,  the  oldest  and  most  famous 
monument  in  the  world,  supposed  to  have  existed 
2,000  years  before  the  pyramids,  is  the  recumbent 
form  of  a  lion  with  the  head  of  a  man  hewn  from 
the  natural  lime  stone  rock.  It  measures  128  feet 
in  length;  66  feet  from  the  paws  to  the  crown  of 
the  head;  the  ears  are  4^  feet  long;  the  nose  5 
feet  7  inches  ;  the  mouth  7  feet  7  inches  in  width  ; 
and  the  extreme  breadth  of  face  13  feet  8  inches. 
Investigation  developed  the  existence  of  two 
wells  within  the  body  partially  filled  in  with  sand, 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  233 

and  from  the  top  of  the  head  a  shaft  descending 
a  depth  of  six  feet  in  which  the  priests  probably 
concealed  themselves  in  order  to  work  upon  the 
superstitious  fears  of  the  credulous  with  mys- 
terious and  oracular  enunciations. 

The  Sphinx  was  the  deity  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians ;  and  offerings  were  made  before  an 
altar  between  its  paws ;  the  smoke  of  their  sacri- 
ficial fires  issuing  from  its  nostrils.  This  silent 
figure,  defying  time,  immovable  as  the  fixed  stars  ; 
enthroned  amid  these  desert  wastes  for  thousands 
of  years,  has  witnessed  the  rise  and  fall  of  na- 
tions; mighty  cities  springing  from  nothingness, 
wielding  their  powerful  sceptres,  and  descending 
into  the  abyss  of  oblivion ;  has  gazed  undaunted 
into  the  face  of  Osiris,  the  Sun-king,  and  looked 
down  upon  the  countless  myriads  of  grovelling 
humanity  who  have  passed  away  forever. 

The  Temple  of  the  Sphinx  and  a  mausoleum 
recently  discovered  by  Campbell  the  explorer,  lie 
near  by,  buried  to  the  depth  of  100  feet  in  the 
sand ;  and  surrounding  them  on  all  sides  are 
partially  exhumed  tombs  and  temples. 

Leaving  Cairo  by  boat  for  a  three  weeks'  trip 
up  the  Nile,  we  made  our  first  landing  at  Badra- 
chin,  and  mounting  donkeys  set  out  to  visit  the 
ruins  of  the  far-famed  ancient  city  of  Memphis, 
once  the  capital  of  Lower  Egypt  and  one  of  the 
greatest  cities  of  antiquity.  These  ruins  retain 
but  few  vestiges  of  past  grandeur ;  the  most  con- 


234  A    TOUR 

spicuous  object  of  interest  being  the  Serapeum — 
the  tomb  of  the  sacred  Bulls  Apis  which  contains 
24  gigantic  sarcophagi,  of  granite  and  black 
marble,  each  1 1  feet  high  and  1 8  feet  long, 
highly  polished  and  inscribed  with  hiero- 
glyphics. Above  this  tomb  once  stood  the 
temple  in  which  the  sacred  bulls  were  worshipped. 
The  Egyptians  believed  that  the  soul  of  Osiris, 
after  his  death,  became  incarnated  in  the  body  of 
a  bull, —  born  of  a  virgin  cow, —  which  they  called 
Apis ;  this  animal  was  distinguished  by  certain 
marks  required  also  in  his  successors  ;  these  con- 
sisted of  a  triangular  white  spot  on  the  forehead, 
the  figure  of  an  eagle  on  the  back,  a  white  cres- 
cent on  the  right  side,  and  a  sacred  scarabaeus — 
or  beetle  —  under  the  tongue.  To  the  god  Apis 
were  assigned  a  temple,  two  chapels,  and  a  court 
for  exercise,  and  his  food  was  served  in  vessels  of 
gold.  On  attaining  the  age  of  25  years  he  was 
drowned  by  the  priests  in  the  sacred  cistern  ;  and 
his  body  carefully  embalmed  and  placed  in  one  of 
the  sarcophagi  in  the  Serapeum,  when  the  whole 
country  was  thrown  into  mourning  until  a  suc- 
cessor had  been  announced.  Among  the  other 
ruins  of  Memphis  are  immense  prostrate  stone 
figures  of  Rameses  II.  and  those  of  his  wife  and 
daughter,  the  pyramids  of  Sakkara,  and  the 
tombs  of  Onas  and  Ti. 

Returning    to    the    Nile    we    sailed    past    the 
False  Pyramid,  the  villages  of  Wasta  and  Fesh- 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  235 

neh,  and  the  mountain  Gebel-el-Dayr,  on  the 
summit  of  which  stands  a  Coptic  convent,  and 
landed  at  Minieh  which  contains  a  fine  palace, 
and  the  extensive  sugar  factory  belonging  to  the 
Khedive. 

Further  up  the  river  are  the  tombs  of  Beni- 
Hassan,  chambers  cut  in  the  solid  rock  far  up  the 
hill,  and  supposed  to  be  the  oldest  tombs  of  the 
kind  in  Egypt.  These  are  ornamented  with 
figures  of  animals,  fish,  and  birds,  and  designs 
representing  the  life  and  customs  of  ancient  times, 
in  all  of  which  the  imperishable  red  and  blue  are 
almost  as  distinct  as  when  painted  thousands  of 
years  ago.  One  tomb  is  dedicated  to  Pasht  the 
Egyptian  Diana ;  in  another  is  the  Grecian  Doric 
column  —  unique  in  Egypt;  and  beneath  all 
are  pits  where  numerous  mummies  were  found. 

A  few  miles  beyond  are  the  ruins  of  Antino- 
opolis  —  a  city  built  by  the  Emperor  Hadrian  to 
commemorate  the  death  of  his  beautiful  favorite 
Antinous  who  drowned  himself  in  the  Nile ;  and 
along  the  river  for  twelve  miles  are  the  celebrated 
Crocodile  mummy-pits,  cut  in  the  rock  of  Mount 
Gebel-abou-faydah. 

Assioot,  the  metropolis  of  Upper  Egypt  stands 
on  the  site  of  ancient  Lycopolis  or  city  of  wolves, 
a  place  noted  for  the  worship  of  these  animals. 
It  is  the  terminus  of  the  railway  from  Cairo  ;  is 
the  residence  of  a  pasha,  has  a  fine  palace,  mosque 
and  bazaar,  and  was  once  the  principal  slave 


236  A   TOUR 

market  in  Egypt.  From  the  mountain  in  the 
rear  of  the  town  is  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Nile,  and  numberless  tombs  extend  under  the 
hill  below. 

The  ruins  of  Abydos  are  situated  six  miles 
back  of  Girgeh  at  the  base  of  the  Libyan 
mountains.  They  at  one  time  ranked  next  to 
those  of  Thebes,  and  owed  their  importance  to 
the  fact  that  the  god  Osiris  was  buried  here  ;  and 
wealthy  Egyptians  from  all  parts  of  the  country 
desired  to  have  their  bodies  lie  in  the  sacred  dust 
which  their  god  had  hallowed.  The  prin- 
cipal ruins  yet  remaining  are  the  Temple  of  Setee 
I.,  the  Temple  of  Rameses  II.,  and  the  Necropolis. 

Here,  in  the  Temple  of  Osiris,  the  Tablet  of 
Abydos — or  list  of  Pharaohs  was  found,  which 
is  now  one  of  the  most  valuable  objects  in  the 
British  Museum. 

Keneh  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance ; 
chiefly  noted  for  its  porous  jugs,  and  dates. 
From  here  we  made  an  excursion  across  the  river 
to  the  Temple  of  Denderah,  one  of  the  finest  and 
best  preserved  on  the  Nile,  dedicated  to  the  god- 
dess Hathor — the  Egyptian  Venus;  the  ceil- 
ing which  is  carved  with  the  signs  of  the 
zodiac,  is  supported  by  24  massive  pillars  with 
beautiful  capitals  ;  the  outer  wall  has  the  cartouch 
and  figure  of  Cleopatra  with  that  of  her  son  the 
young  Caesarion  by  Julius  Caesar ;  while  on  the 
portico,  erected  by  the  Emperor  Tiberius,  is  the 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  237 

name  of  that  monarch  with  those  of  Claudius, 
Nero,  Caligula,  Caesar  and  Ptolemy. 

Luxor,  a  place  of  debarkation,  is  a  small  Arab 
village  on  the  site,  and  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the 
finest  ruins  of  Thebes.  It  was  here  at  the  Consul's 
house  we  witnessed  the  Egyptian  Nautch  or  muscle 
dance,  rendered  by  the  native  women  to  perfection. 

Thebes  extended  for  seven  miles  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  It  was  the  most  celebrated 
and  the  most  magnificent  of  all  the  ancient  cap- 
itals of  Egypt,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  king- 
dom of  the  Pharaohs  when  in  the  zenith  of  their 
power.  Looking  upon  these  ruins  of  a  long  past 
grandeur  —  these  palaces,  temples,  and  tombs  of 
extinct  races,  one  gathers  a  faint  conception  of 
the  customs  and  habits  of  its  people. 

The  Temple  of  Luxor  800  feet  long  by  200 
broad,  has  yet  many  magnificent  columns  stand- 
ing, and  at  the  main  entrance  are  three  colossal 
statues  of  kings.  In  front  of  these  once  stood 
two  granite  obelisks  ;  one  of  which  was  presented 
to  Louis  Philippe,  and  now  stands  in  the  Place  de 
la  Concorde,  Paris ;  while  the  one  remaining, 
bears  less  evidence  of  the  ravages  of  time  than 
any  other  in  the  world. 

The  ruins  of  Karnak  —  a  portion  of  Thebes  — 
comprise  a  vast  collection  of  palaces,  temples, 
obelisks,  and  columns  from  80  to  100  feet  high, 
and  avenues  of  sphinxes  surpassing  in  grandeur 
and  extent  all  other  ruins  on  the  Nile. 


238  A    TOUR 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  extending 
back  eight  miles,  and  strewing  the  plain  where 
once  stood  the  western  portion  of  Thebes,  yet  re- 
main the  ruins  of  the  temples  of  Medeenet  Haboo, 
Koorneh,  and  the  palace-temple  Memnonium  or 
Rameseum.  Near  the  latter  is  the  prostrate 
colossal  figure  of  Rameses  II.,  weighing  1,000  tons 
and  measuring  63  feet  around  the  shoulders,  the 
largest  statue  ever  hewn  from  a  solid  block  of 
granite.  This  king,  supposed  to  be  the  Pharaoh 
of  the  Exodus,  after  having  conquered  the  then 
known  world,  in  order  to  perpetuate  his  memory, 
built  the  Rameseum  as  a  lasting  memorial  of  his 
greatness  and  glory. 

The  Colossi  are  two  sitting  figures  in  stone,  60 
feet  high,  well  preserved,  and  in  all  probability, 
statues  of  Amenophis  II.  or  III.,  and  once  guarded 
here  the  entrance  of  the  Temple-palace  of  this 
Pharaoh,  "  who  knew  not  Joseph."  One  of  these 
known  as  the  vocal  Memnon  was  celebrated  for 
the  musical  sounds  said  to  issue  from  the  statue 
when  touched  by  the  first  rays  of  the  morning 
sun ;  and  the  religious  and  poetic  version  is  that 
it  represents  Memnon,  a  king  of  Egypt,  who  was 
killed  by  Achilles  at  the  siege  of  Troy,  and  the 
dew-drops  which  appear  in  the  morning  are  the 
tears  which  Aurora  sheds  for  her  son. 

In  a  desolate  valley  in  the  heart  of  the  Libyan 
Mountains  are  situated  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings 
excavated  in  the  solid  rock,  some  of  which  are  470 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  239 

feet  deep,  and  extend  for  half  a  mile  into  the 
mountain,  the  walls  and  ceilings  being  decorated 
with  carvings  and  paintings  representing  every 
phase  of  Egyptian  life.  The  finest  of  these  are 
the  tomb  of  Setee  L,  father  of  Rameses  II. ,  in 
which  was  found  a  beautiful  alabaster  sar- 
cophagus;  the  tomb  of  Rameses  III.  in  which 
are  the  paintings  of  the  famous  harpists ;  those 
of  Rameses  IV.,  Rameses  VI.,  and  Rameses  IX., 
and  that  of  the  rich  priest  Assef:  while  others 
contained  the  mummified  bodies  of  animals  of 
various  kinds. 

,  Returning  to  Luxor,  where  our  steamer  was 
awaiting  us,  after  an  exploring  tour  which  occu- 
pied three  days,  we  continued  up  the  river  to 
Esna. 

Here  is  a  palace  of  Mohammed  Ali,  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  town  the  portico  of  the  Temple  of 
Keneph  with  its  24  columns  19  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence and  65  feet  in  height,  whose  capitals  repre- 
sent the  doum  palm,  the  vine,  and  the  papyrus. 
Of  the  temple  which  is  entirely  covered  up,  this 
portion  alone  has  been  excavated,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  well  preserved  on  the  Nile. 
Edfoo  is  the  next  place  of  importance  reached, 
and  its  temple  one  of  the  grandest  monuments  of 
Egypt.  Its  entire  length  is  440x200  feet ;  it  was 
built  by  Ptolomaeus  Philometer,  180  B.  C.  and 
was  dedicated  to  the  god  Horhat,  and  to  Athor, 
his  mother,  the  Egyptian  Venus.  In  one  cham- 


240  A   TOUR 

her,  beautifully  ornamented  with  carvings,  is  a 
grey  granite  monolith  in  which  was  kept  the 
sacred  hawk. 

At  Gebel  Silsileh  are  the  quarries  from  which 
the  ancient  kings  of  Egypt  procured  the  stones  for 
erecting  the  mammoth  structures  at  Luxor,  Kar- 
nak,  and  Medeenet  Haboo ;  and  here  where  the 
river  is  very  narrow,  a  chain  was  thrown  across 
by  an  ancient  king  to  arrest  navigation. 

The  Temple  of  Kom  Omboo,  1 8  miles  further 
up,  is  fast  going  to  decay  and  falling  into  the 
river.  It  comprises  two  temples,  one  dedicated  to 
Light  and  the  other  to  Darkness,  the  latter  conse- 
crated to  the  crocodile  god  Sebek ;  the  tank  is 
still  to  be  seen  where  the  sacred  crocodile  bathed, 
and  the  brick  terrace  where  he  sunned  himself. 
Besides  this  animal,  cats,  wolves,  and  birds  were 
worshipped  by  the  ancient  Egyptians,  as  is  proved 
by  the  numbers  found  mummified  in  the  surround- 
ing caves. 

Asswan  is  the  border  town  between  Egypt 
and  Nubia,  and  the  terminus  of  navigation  for  the 
large  Nile  steamers.  In  its  bazaars  are  to  be  pur- 
chased the  skins  of  serpents  and  wild  beasts,  ele- 
phants' tusks,  ostrich  eggs  and  plumes,  and 
various  other  articles  peculiar  to  the  country. 
Here  the  Nubian,  black  as  night,  first  makes  his 
appearance,  his  naked  body  shining  with  oil,  and 
hair  grotesquely  arranged.  The  wardrobe  of 
many  of  the  women  consists  of  but  a  leathern 


AROUND    THE    WORLD  24! 

girdle  fringed  out  and  ornamented  with  shells, 
while  their  kinky  hair  is  worn  plaited  in  multitu- 
dinous small  braids.  The  childrens'  attire  is  of 
an  even  more  primitive  description  —  a  ring  in 
the  right  nostril,  and  three  or  four  in  each  ear,  to 
complete  which  elaborate  costume  a  cord  is  some- 
times worn  around  the  waist.  The  Nubians,  as  a 
race,  are  less  corrupt  than  the  Egyptians,  and 
decidedly  more  dignified,  frank  and  cheerful. 

In  the  river  opposite  Asswan  is  the  island  of 
Elephantine,  where  there  are  ruins  of  temples  and 
statues,  and  also  of  a  Nilometer. 

In  the  mountains  beyond  are  the  famous 
granite  quarries  from  which  were  wrought  the 
colossal  statue  of  Rameses,  and  the  obelisks  now 
at  Heliopolis,  Alexandria,  Constantinople,  Paris, 
London,  and  New  York.  A  monolith  100  feet 
long  and  twelve  feet  square  at  the  base  is  still 
here,  never  having  been  removed  from  the  quarry, 
and  like  its  mates  is  of  a  light  red  color  sprinkled 
with  green,  very  hard  and  susceptible  of  the  high- 
est polish. 

The  great  problem  to  the  inquiring  mind  is 
the  means  used  by  the  ancients  in  cutting  into 
this  adamantine  material;  from  a  thorough  ex- 
amination and  from  the  numbers  of  partly-hewn 
blocks  abandoned  on  account  of  the  rock  having 
split  in  a  contrary  direction,  it  is  reasonable  to 
suppose  that  holes  were  cut  in  line,  plugged  with 
wood  and  soaked  with  water  which,  expanding 

16 


242  A   TOUR 

these  wedges,  divided  the  rock  and  accomplished 
with  long  and  tedious  labor  the  work  which 
modern  machinery  achieves  with  so  much  ease. 

The  first  Nile  cataract,  seven  miles  above 
Asswan,  is  a  series  of  rapids  down  which  the 
Nubian  boys  float  or  shoot  on  logs,  to  amuse 
spectators,  after  which  they  vociferously  demand 
b&ckskecsk  —  a  gift  of  money. 

The  Island  of  Philae  in  Nubia,  above  the  first 
cataract,  is  by  far  the  most  picturesque  spot  on 
the  Nile.  It  is  surrounded  by  wild  and  rocky 
scenery,  while  the  island  itself  is  covered  with 
rich  verdure,  -and  groves  of  palm  and  acacia,  in- 
termingle with  beautiful  ruins.  These  consist 
of  the  Temple  of  Isis,  Pharaoh's  Bed, —  formerly 
the  Temple  of  Osiris,  and  the  Temple  of  Athor. 
Philae  was  the  last  stronghold  of  the  Egyptian 
faith,  and  here  Osiris,  Isis,  and  Horus  were 
worshipped  60  years  after  the  Egyptian  religion 
was  abolished  by  Theodosius. 

This  was  the  terminus  of  our  trip  up  the  Nile, 
and  from  here  we  turned  our  faces  towards 
Cairo  and  lazily  floated  down  the  river. 

The  rail  from  Cairo  to  Port  Said,  a  distance 
of  150  miles,  follows  the  Sweetwater  canal  which 
supplies  the  stations,  and  towns  on  the  Suez  canal 
with  drinking-water,  and  runs  through  that  Land 
of  Goshen  so  fertile  in  olden  times,  but  now  a 
barren  and  sandy  desert.  The  principal  places 
of  importance  passed  are  Belbeis  and  Bordein, 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  243 

near  the  latter  of  which  are  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  city  of  Bubastis  —  in  the  Coptic 
language  Pi-Beseth  —  the  city  of  which  Ezekiel 
prophesied  that  it  should  go  into  captivity,  and 
its  young  men  fall  by  the  sword. 

Tel-el-Kebir  passed  en  route,  is  a  dirty  Arab 
village  of  no  importance,  but  rendered  notable  as 
the  scene  of  the  decisive  battle  of  the  recent 
Egyptian  war  fought  on  September  I3th,  1882, 
when  Arabi  was  vanquished  by  the  English,  and 
his  army  of  30,000  men  destroyed  and  taken 
prisoners. 

In  taking  steamer  from  Port  Said  to  cross  the 
Mediterranean  for  a  sixteen  hours'  sail  to  Jaffa,  we 
left  with  regret  this  ancient  and  interesting  coun- 
try strewn  with  colossal  ruins  which  speak  so 
plainly  of  a  past  and  powerful  nation ;  for,  to  see 
the  palaces  and  monuments  of  Egypt  is  to  see  the 
Egyptians  as  they  lived  and  moved  before  the 
eyes  of  Abraham  and  Moses,  to  see  the  temples 
and  tombs  of  Egypt  is  to  see  the  Egyptians  in 
the  most  solemn  moments  of  their  lives. 


244  A   TOUR 


CHAPTER  XX. 

JAFFA  :  LATROON  :  JERUSALEM  :  SOLOMON'S  POOLS  I 
HEBRON  :  BETHLEHEM  :  MAR  SABA  :  THE  DEAD  SEA  : 
RIVER  JORDAN  :  JERICHO. 

PALESTINE  is  a  long  strip  of  land  bordering  the 
Mediterranean,  and  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
river  Jordan.  It  is  nowhere  over  50  miles  in 
breadth,  and  from  Dan  to  Beersheba  180  miles 
in  length.  The  country  is  hilly  and  mountain- 
ous, and  with  the  exception  of  a  few  green  val- 
leys is  rocky  and  barren.  Only  from  Jaffa  to 
Jerusalem,  and  Baalbec  to  Beyrout,  are  wheels 
available,  and  what  here  are  called  roads  are  sim- 
ply rocky  paths  which  only  a  sure-footed  horse 
and  experienced  rider  can  travel. 

This  is  the  ancient  Canaan  or  Palestine,  so 
called  by  the  Israelites  who  were  expelled  thence, 
three  tribes  of  which,  Reuben,  Gad,  and  Man- 
nasseh  having  territory  assigned  to  them  east  of 
the  Jordan.  In  the  time  of  Moses  they  num- 
bered over  2,000,000,  but  the  present  population 
is  probably  only  700,000,  who  are  mostly  Arabs, 
Turks,  Mohammedans,  Druses,  Jews,  Armenians, 
Greeks,  Syrians,  and  Latins. 

Jaffa,  the  ancient  Joppa,  has  a  population  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  245 

8,OOO,  and  tradition  says  was  first  founded  by 
Japhet,  son  of  Noah.  It  is  the  principal  seaport 
town  of  Palestine,  and  has  the  worst  harbor  in  the 
world;  the  rugged  and  projecting  rocks  rendering 
a  landing  dangerous  at  all  times  and  impossible  in 
stormy  weather. 

Here  Andromeda  was  chained  to  the  rock  un- 
til rescued  by  Perseus  from  the  devouring  mon- 
ster; here  Noah  built  his  ark,  and  Jonah  em- 
barked for  Tarshish  —  instead  of  going  by 
Divine  command  to  Nineveh,  and  on  which  voy- 
age he  was  swallowed  by  the  whale  :  here  Solo- 
mon received  the  cedars  of  Lebanon  from 
Hiram,  king  of  Tyre  for  building  his  temple, 
and  here  Peter  recalled  Tabitha  to  life  (Acts, 
IX. —  36-41).  Here  also  is  the  house  of  "one 
Simon  the  tanner,"  where  Peter  on  the  house-top 
saw  the  vision  of  animals  let  down  in  a  sheet  from 
heaven  (Acts,  X.— 5-16). 

Jaffa  was  taken  by  Napoleon  in  1799  after  an 
obstinate  and  bloody  siege,  and  it  is  said  that 
previous  to  his  retreat  across  the  desert  he  caused 
1,200  Turkish  prisoners  to  be  cruelly  put  to 
death. 

At  Jaffa  we  made  a  contract  for  a  tour  of  30 
days  or  more  through  Palestine  and  Syria,  and 
selected  three  tents,  a  dragoman  (Antonio  Mac- 
louf),  a  cook,  waiter,  and  six  muleteers,  besides  3 
good  riding-horses  and  seven  mules  for  transpor- 
tation. 


246  A    TOUR 

From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  we  passed  en  route 
Lydda,  in  the  plain  of  Sharon  where  St.  George 
killed  the  Dragon ;  Ramleh  with  its  ancient 
tower,  where  were  buried  40  Christian  martyrs, 
and  where  we  first  met  victims  of  that  scourge 
of  the  East  —  leprosy,  in  the  various  stages 
of  the  loathsome  disease:  the  locality  where 
Samson  caught  his  300  foxes  and  tied  brands 
to  their  tails  to  burn  his  enemies'  grain  fields, 
and  stopped  for  the  night  at  Latroon  in  the  valley 
of  Ajalon,  where  Joshua  commanded  the  sun 
and  moon  to  stand  still  (Joshua,  X. — 12). 

Next  day  we  visited  the  village  near  by,  where 
the  penitent  thief  was  born,  and  the  cave  where 
the  two  thieves  lived  while  committing  their  rob- 
beries, and  entered  into  the  land  of  the  tribe  of 
Benjamin,  passed  Kirjathjearim,  Job's  Well,  the 
site  of  the  house  of  Abinadab,  where  the  Ark  of 
the  Covenant  was  kept  (I.  Samuel,  VII. — 12), 
the  town  of  Ain-Karim,  where  St.  John  the 
Baptist  was  born,  and  where  the  Virgin  visited 
her  cousin  Elizabeth  (Luke,  I. — 39-60) ;  the  site 
of  Emmaus,  where  Christ  appeared  to  Cleopas 
(Luke,  XXIV. — 13-31);  looked  upon  the  two  hills 
where  the  army  of  Saul  and  that  of  the  Phil- 
istines confronted  each  other ;  and  picked  up  a 
pebble  from  the  stream  which  flows  between,  at 
the  identical  place  where  tradition  says  David 
selected  the  stone  with  which  he  killed  the  giant 
Goliath. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  247 

After  passing  the  site  of  ancient  Gezer,  which 
one  of  the  Pharaohs  of  Egypt  took  from  the 
Canaanites  and  gave  to  his  daughter  the  wife  of 
Solomon  (I.  Kings,  IX. — 16),  we  saw  the  moun- 
tains of  Moab  in  the  distance,  and  those  "  round 
about  Jerusalem  ;"  and  riding  through  the  Valley 
of  Gihon,  in  which  Solomon  was  anointed  king 
over  Israel,  we  entered  the  Holy  City  through  the 
Jaffa  Gate. 

Jerusalem  which  is  called,  even  by  the  Mo- 
hammedans, the  Blessed  City,  is  situated  on  a 
sloping  hill  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall  3  miles  in 
circumference,  which  is  40  feet  high  and  some  3 
feet  in  thickness.  It  has  34  towers,  and  is  entered 
by  7  gates  —  that  of  Damascus  on  the  north,  of 
St.  Stephen  on  the  east,  Jaffa  on  the  west,  and 
Zion  and  Dung  on  the  south;  the  latter  being  low 
and  crooked,  was  anciently  called  the  Needle's 
Eye,  hence  the  saying:  "  It  is  harder  for  the  rich 
man  to  enter  the  kingdom  of  Heaven,  than  for  a 
camel  to  pass  through  the  eye  of  a  needle,"  while 
Herod's  and  the  Golden  Gate,  have  long  since 
been  walled  up.  Jerusalem  has  a  population  of 
36,000  inhabitants,  one-third  of  which  is  Moham- 
medan, one-third  Jew,  and  the  remainder  Copt, 
Assyrian,  Persian,  Syrian,  Greek,  and  Latin. 

The  streets,  some  of  which  are  arched  over, 
are  narrow  and  filthy,  and  the  houses  and  shops 
shabby  and  neglected.  This  is  Jerusalem  the 
Golden,  the  city  that  men  call  the  perfection  of 


248  A   TOUR 

beauty,  which  apart  from  its  historical  as- 
sociation appears  not  worth  possessing,  even  with- 
out the  trouble  of  conquest. 

On  the  high  ground  to  the  north  overlooking 
Jerusalem  is  the  point  from  which  Titus  made  his 
attack  ;  here  is  the  grotto  where  Jeremiah  wrote 
his  lamentations;  and  the  tombs  of  the  kings  and 
judges :  these  are  many  in  number,  cut  in  the 
solid  rock,  their  entrances  being  closed  by  means 
of  large  round  stones  which  fitted  into  grooves 
and  required  great  strength  to  remove.  On  the 
west  is  the  Valley  of  Hinnon,  with  the  upper  and 
lower  pools  of  Gihon.  On  the  south  in  the  valley 
is  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  Pool  of 
Siloam  ;  beyond,  is  the  Hill  of  Scandal  where 
King  Solomon  had  his  immense  harem,  and  the 
Potter's  Field  or  Field  of  Blood,  where  Judas 
after  betraying  Jesus  went  and  hanged  himself: 
and  in  a  cave  close  by,  the  apostles  concealed 
themselves  during  Christ's  imprisonment  and 
crucifixion. 

On  the  east  rises  the  Mount  of  Olives  from  the 
sutrmiit  of  which  Christ  ascended  to  Heaven,  and 
close  by  is  the  cave  in  which  He  taught  His  dis- 
ciples the  Lord's  Prayer.  At  the  base  of  this 
mountain  is  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin,  with  her 
husband  Joseph,  and  those  of  her  father  and 
mother, —  Joachim  and  Anna. 

Near  the  spot  where  St.  Stephen  was  stoned 
to  death,  is  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  where 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  249 

Judas  betrayed  Christ  with  a  kiss,  and  close  by 
the  Grotto  of  the  Agony,  where  the  Saviour  en- 
dured his  agony  and  bloody  sweat. 

Between  Jerusalem  and  the  Mount  of  Olives 
lies  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  through  which 
flows  the  brook  Kedron ;  and  here  among  thous- 
ands of  Jewish  tombs  are  those  of  St.  James, 
Jehoshaphat,  Zachariah,  and  Absalom,  cut  in  the 
rock,  the  latter  being  ornamented  with  Doric 
columns,  and  partially  buried  beneath  small  stones 
thrown  by  the  Jews  in  token  of  contempt  for  his 
conduct. 

Mount  Zion  on  which  a  portion  of  Jerusalem 
is  built  is  a  large  hill,  and  on  it,  just  outside  of  the 
Zion  Gate,  is  the  tomb  of  David  over  which  the 
Mohammedans  have  erected  a  small  mosque  :  here 
in  the  house  of  the  High-Priest  Caiaphas  is  the 
room  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  Last  Sup- 
per ;  on  this  mount  is  also  the  spot  where  Christ 
appeared  to  his  Apostles  after  the  resurrection, 
and  where  the  Holy  Ghost  descended  upon  them 
on  the  day  of  Pentecost. 

In  an  Armenian  church  just  within  the  Gate 
of  Zion,  is  kept  the  stone  on  which  the  cock  crew 
when  Peter  denied  his  Lord  ;  and  its  altar  is  formed 
of  a  large  circular  stone  6  inches  thick,  and  1 5  feet 
in  circumference,  which  the  angel  rolled  away 
from  the  door  of  the  Sepulchre. 

The  Mosque  of  Omar,  the  Mohammedan  Holy 
of  Holies,  is  of  octagon  form,  and  is  situated  on 


250  A   TOUR 

Mount  Moriah.  It  is  on  the  foundation  walls  of 
the  Temple  of  Solomon,  and  with  its  grounds 
covers  an  area  1,500  feet  long  by  1,000  broad. 
This  has  been  considered  by  the  Jews  the  most 
sacred  ground  in  Jerusalem  since  the  time  of 
David;  it  was  then  used  as  threshing  floors,  for 
which  he  paid  50  shekels  of  silver.  The  Mosque, 
which  is  rich  in  gilding  and  glass  mosaic  windows, 
has  beneath  its  dome  the  Holy  Rock,  57  feet  long 
by  43  wide,  rising  6^  feet  above  the  ground, 
on  which  consistent  with  Biblical  authority,  Abra- 
ham was  on  the  point  of  sacrificing  Isaac. 

On  this  Rock  is  the  impression  of  Mohammed's 
foot,  which  he  left  when  taking  his  flight  from 
earth,  also  that  of  the  angel  Gabriel's  hand  as 
he  restrained  it  from  accompanying  the  prophet  in 
his  ascension.  In  a  cavern  beneath  the  Rock  are 
preserved  two  hairs  of  Mohammed's  beard,  and 
here  are  shown  shrines  indicating  the  places  where 
once  prayed  Abraham,  Elijah,  David,  Jesus,  and 
Mohammed. 

In  the  grounds  inclosing  the  mosque  is  a 
small  temple  where  David  and  Saul  sat  in  judg- 
ment; and  another  shows  where  once  stood  Solo- 
mon's throne.  In  a  subterranean  passage  are 
some  of  the  original  walls  and  arches  of  the 
Temple,  and  in  another,  containing  3,000  pillars, 
were  the  stables  of  this  wise  son  of  David. 

Outside  the  walls,  where  still  remain  some  of 
the  original  stones  of  the  Temple,  is  the  Jews' 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  25 1 

Wailing  Place,  where  every  Friday  men,  women, 
and  children  of  that  dejected  and  outcast  race  as- 
semble to  read  their  testament,  to  bring  their 
written  prayers,  which  they  insert  in  the  crevices 
of  the  wall,  and  with  hands  outstretched  upon  the 
stones  worn  smooth  by  their  kisses,  to  weep  and 
wail  in  piteous  accents  over  the  destruction  of 
their  Temple. 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  was  built 
by  St.  Helena,  mother  of  the  Emperor  Constan- 
tine,  about  the  year  325  A.  D,  and  not  only 
covers  the  supposed  site  of  Calvary  but  those  of 
every  incident  connected  with  the  Passion  and 
sepulture  of  the  Saviour. 

The  exterior  of  the  church  is  shabby  and  fast 
going  to  decay,  while  the  interior,  owing  to  the 
jealousy  and  unwillingness  of  either  of  the 
Christian  sects  to  allow  the  other  to  keep  the 
edifice  in  repair,  presents  a  dingy  appearance, 
lamps,  ostrich  eggs,  cheap  pictures  and  other  gew- 
gaws being  the  sole  ornaments  of  its  walls  and 
altars. 

In  consequence  of  the  antagonism  existing 
among  the  various  Christian  sects,  a  Turkish 
guard  of  IOO  soldiers  is  constantly  on  duty  to 
keep  the  peace,  and  they  are  frequently  bribed  by 
one  sect  to  persecute  another.  Owing  to  this 
state  of  affairs,  each  sect,  except  the  Protestants, 
has  a  separate  chapel  or  altar  near  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  and  one  is  not  allowed  to  trespass  upon 


252  A   TOUR 

the  premises  of  the  other.  Occasionally  may  be 
seen  the  Greeks  and  Latins  with  their  backs 
turned  on  each  other  holding  their  different  forms 
of  worship  at  the  same  time. 

On  entering  the  edifice  the  first  thing  notice- 
able is  a  marble  slab  which  covers  the  Stone  of 
Unction  where  the  body  of  Jesus  was  laid  and 
anointed  for  the  grave,  and  near  it  is  a  circular 
railing  inclosing  the  spot  where  Mary  and  Martha 
stood  during  the  ceremony.  In  the  centre  of  the 
church  is  the  rotunda  directly  beneath  which  is 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  inclosed  in  a  square  temple  of 
yellow  marble,  1 5  feet  high  and  1 2  feet  square  ; 
this  is  divided  into  two  chambers ;  the  first  one 
containing  the  stone  where  the  angel  sat  guarding 
the  entrance  to  the  tomb,  and  the  other  the  Sep- 
ulchre. Surrounding  this  are  large  wax-candles, 
each  sect  providing  one,  and  besides  these  are  40 
gold  and  silver  hanging-lamps  presented  by  dif- 
ferent sovereigns,  which  are  kept  continually 
burning. 

On  either  side  of  this  small  temple  are  holes 
through  which,  during  the  Easter  celebrations  of 
the  Greeks  and  Latins,  which  occur  one  month 
apart,  flames  are  seen  to  issue ;  attributing  to  this 
manifestation  a  miraculous  origin,  the  devotees  in 
their  eagerness  to  secure  a  portion  of  the  Holy 
Fire,  as  they  consider  it,  rush  forward  frantically, 
trampling  one  another  underfoot  and  converting 
this  holy  place  into  a  veritable  pandemonium. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  253 

Opening  from  the  rotunda  is  a  cavern  in  the 
natural  rock,  claimed  to  be  the  tombs  of  Nicode- 
mus  and  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  where  they  laid 
the  body  of  Jesus  immediately  after  the  cruci- 
fixion. Various  shrines  in  the  church  indicate  the 
spots  where  Christ  was  imprisoned,  put  in  the 
stocks,  and  crowned  with  thorns,  also  the  site  and 
a  remnant  of  the  flagellation  column,  and  the 
place  where  the  soldiers  cast  lots  for  His  vestments. 
A  colored  marble  slab  on  the  floor  marks  the 
spot  where  the  Saviour  stood  when  He  appeared 
to  Mary  Magdelene,  and  a  star  inserted  a  few 
yards  further  off  is  where  Mary  received  this 
manifestation  ;  besides  a  place  shown  where  Jesus 
also  appeared  to  His  mother  after  His  resurrection. 

Ascending  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  upper  part 
of  the  church  is  Calvary,  or  Golgotha  —  the  place 
of  a  skull,  where  are  two  shrines  ;  that  of  the 
Latins  showing  where  Christ  was  nailed  to  the 
Cross,  and  that  of  the  Greeks,  a  hole  in  the  rock 
where  the  Cross  was  raised,  as  well  as  the  rent 
made  by  the  earthquake. 

A  few  steps  below  the  church  level  is  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Helena,  where  in  350  A.  D.  she 
explored  and  found  the  True  Cross. 

In  a  Greek  chapel  is  a  globe  inserted  in  the 
floor,  marking  the  centre  of  the  earth  ;  close  to 
which  is  the  tomb  of  Adam,  whose  resting-place 
at  the  foot  of  Calvary  is  said  to  have  been  revealed 
by  an  angel. 


254      .  A   TOUR 

In  the  Sacristy  are  the  spurs,  sword  and  neck- 
lace of  Godfrey  de  Bouillon,  and  near  it  is  his 
tomb  and  that  of  his  brother  Baldwin. 

On  Holy  Thursday  we  witnessed  in  the 
church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  ceremony  of 
the  Washing  of  Feet  by  the  Latin  High-priest; 
in  remembrance  of  our  Saviour's  washing  of  the 
feet  of  His  twelve  apostles. 

On  Good  Friday,  to  commemorate  the  last 
scenes  of  the  Passion,  the  Latins  have  a  life-size 
wax-figure  of  Christ  which  is  borne  through  the 
Via  Dolorosa  —  or  Way  of  Sorrow  —  the  proces- 
sion pausing  at  each  station  held  sacred  in  His 
passage  to  the  scene  of  the  crucifixion.  The  Via 
Dolorosa  commences  at  the  Tower  of  Antonio 
where  Christ  first  took  up  the  cross ;  then  passes 
under  the  Ecce  Homo  arch,  from  which  Pilate 
said  "  Behold  the  Man ;"  past  the  site  of  the 
house  of  St.  Veronica,  who,  witnessing  the 
Saviour's  suffering,  offered  Him  a  handkerchief 
upon  which  was  left  the  impression  of  His  face  in 
blood ;  and  other  shrines  indicating,  by  impres- 
sions left  upon  the  stone  wall,  the  places  where 
Christ  in  falling  under  the  weight  of  the  cross, 
struck  His  face  or  arm.  Further  on  is  the  house 
of  the  Wandering  Jew,  where  stopping  to  rest, 
Jesus  was  told  by  him  to  "  move  on,"  in  reply  to 
which,  according  to  tradition,  the  Saviour  said : 
"Move  thou  on  likewise;"  and  ever  since,  the 
Jew  has  been  moving  on,  permitted  neither  to 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  255 

rest  nor  die  ;  which  legend  suggested  to  Eugene 
Sue  the  motive  for  his  celebrated  novel. 

Arriving  at  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 
the  procession  proceeds  to  offer  prayers  at  the 
various  shrines ;  after  which  they  perform  the 
ceremony  of  the  crucifixion.  The  effigy  is  nailed 
to  the  cross,  and  lifted  into  position  in  the  so- 
called  identical  hole  where  once  stood  the  original 
cross ;  when  appropriate  ceremonies  and  prayers 
ensue,  after  which  the  cross  is  lowered,  the  body 
placed  on  the  stone  of  unction  and  anointed,  and 
finally  laid  in  the  Sepulchre. 

These  religious  ceremonies  we  witnessed 
under  the  protection  of  our  Consul,  attended  by 
his  guard  together'with  our  own  ;  for  so  great  is 
the  fanatical  excitement  of,  the  Christians,  that 
one's  very  life  is  endangered  by  their  demonstra- 
tions. 

From  Jerusalem  to  Hebron,  southward,  a  dis- 
tance of  20  miles  over  the  most  rocky  road  im- 
aginable, we  first  passed  the  Magician's  Well 
where  the  Star  of  Bethlehem  was  reflected  in  the 
water  to  direct  the  Wise  Men ;  then  Rachel's 
tomb  near  the  village  called  after  Benjamin  (Gen. 
XXXV. — 19),  and  Abraham's  oak,  under  which 
his  tent  was  pitched  when  he  was  commanded  by 
God  to  sacrifice  Isaac. 

Hebron  which,  next  to  Damascus,  is  the 
oldest  city  in  the  world,  contains  about  5>oo°  m~ 
habitants;  here  Abraham  bought  from  Ephron 


256  A    TOUR 

the  Hittite,  the  cave  and  field  of  Machpelah ;  and 
under  a  large  Mohammedan  mosque  which  neither 
Christian  nor  Jew  is  allowed  to  enter,  lie  buried 
Abraham  and  Sarah  his  wife ;  Isaac,  Rebecca 
and  Leah  ;  and  the  Mohammedans  claim  Joseph 
also. 

From  here,  proceeding  northeast,  we  passed 
the  immense  Pools  and  Gardens  of  Solomon, 
where  he  once  had  a  summer  palace  (Ecc.  II. — 
5-6),  and  went  through  the  village  of  Etam  where 
Samson  was  bound  with  cords,  and  after  break- 
ing them  killed  1,000  Philistines  with  the  jaw- 
bone of  an  ass  (Judges,  XV). 

Bethlehem,  the  City  of  David,  situated  on  the 
knob  of  a  mountain,  surrounded  by  valleys  and 
picturesque  views,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most 
interesting  spots  in  Palestine. 

The  Church  of  the  Nativity  covers  the  grotto 
stable  where  Christ  was  born ;  the  spot  being 
marked  by  a  silver  star  inserted  in  the  floor. 
The  first  one  placed  there  having  been  stolen,  the 
Greeks  and  Latins  contended  for  the  honor  of 
providing  a  substitute ;  which  contention  afforded 
a  pretext  for  the  inauguration  of  the  Crimean 
war. 

Another  grotto  is  where  the  angel  appeared 
to  Joseph  in  a  dream  bidding  him  take  the  young 
child  and  its  mother,  and  flee  into  Egypt ;  in  the 
Milk  grotto  the  Holy  Family  took  refuge ;  in  an- 
other St.  Jerome  lived  and  died ;  and  in  still  an- 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  257 

other,  2O,OOO  of  the  Innocents  were  thrown  after 
the  massacre  ordered  by  Herod. 

This  church,  built  by  St.  Helena,  is  said  to  be 
the  oldest  in  the  world,  and  was  of  great  mag- 
nificence when  Baldwin  was  crowned  here,  King 
of  Jerusalem ;  the  ceiling  is  composed  of  beams 
of  cedar  from  the  forest  of  Lebanon,  and  its  walls 
still  show  traces  of  the  golden  mosaic  which  once 
adorned  it. 

Leaving  Bethlehem  we  passed  David's  Well, 
the  water  of  which  he  so  thirsted  after  (II. 
Samuel,  XXIII. — 15-16) ;  crossed  the  field  of  Boaz 
where  Ruth  gathered  the  sheaves  (Ruth,  II),  and 
where  the  shepherds  watched  their  flocks  by 
night  (Luke,  11);  stopped  for  lunch  at  the 
grotto  where  the  angel  appeared  to  the  shepherds, 
announcing  the  birth  of  the  Saviour;  and  camped 
for  the  night  at  Mar-Saba. 

This  locality  is  noted  for  its  convent  cut  in 
the  solid  rock,  which  is  occupied  by  dirty  Greek 
monks  who  are  never  allowed  to  look  upon  the 
face  of  a  woman,  and  who  pass  their  days  guard- 
ing the  tomb  of  their  Saint  Saba. 

Leaving  camp  early  in  the  morning  we  rode 
four  hours  through  the  wilderness  of  Judea; 
passing  the  ruined  castle  where  John  the 
Baptist  was  beheaded,  and  the  valley  in  which 
were  the  warm  baths  where  Herod  bathed 
for  his  illness,  and  reached  the  Dead  Sea. 

This  sheet  of  water  which  is  46  miles  in  length 
17 


258  A   TOUR 

and  1 1  in  breadth,  is  of  a  dark-green  color  and  so 
bitter  and  briny  that  no  living  creature  can  exist 
in  it,  though  birds,  contrary  to  the  general  belief 
are  frequently  seen  flying  over  it.  It  is  situated 
1,300  feet  below  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  its 
specific  gravity  is  so  great  that  in  bathing  one 
finds  it  impossible  to  sink.  The  Dead  Sea  is 
inclosed  by  mountains  not  less  than  2,000  feet 
high,  and  at  its  head  is  Mount  Neba,  while  on  its 
shores,  now  desolate  and  devoid  of  all  life  and 
vegetation,  once  stood  the  cities  of  Sodom  and 
Gomorrah. 

It  may  not  be  inappropriate,  although  some- 
what anticipating  events,  to  recount  here  an  inci- 
dent of  a  second  visit  to  the  Dead  Sea  which  I 
made  alone. 

Mounting  my  thoroughbred  Arab  horse  I  was 
conducted  by  an  Arab  attendant  to  a  Bedouin 
village  —  an  assemblage  of  tents  —  where  the 
sheik  resided.  Each  tribe,  inhabiting  a  certain  dis- 
trict, is  governed  by  a  sheik,  and  in  order  to 
obtain  permission  to  pass  through  their  territory, 
tribute  money  is  exacted,  when  they  furnish  an 
escort  to  the  neighboring  tribe,  who  in  turn  enact 
similar  proceedings. 

After  some  deliberation  and  delay,  the  sheik 
furnished  me  a  guard  armed  with  a  gun,  a  brace 
of  pistols,  and  a  sword,  and  mounted  on  a  thor- 
oughbred mare  as  swift  as  the  wind,  which  he 
rode  without  bridle  and  with  such  perfect  control 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  259 

as  to  be  able  to  turn  her  in  an  instant,  to  gallop 
her  up  and  down  almost  perpendicular  ascents, 
while  he  shouted  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  waving 
on  high  his  gun  and  sword,  and  often  crossing 
blades  with  other  Arabs  whom  he  met.  Finally 
reaching  the  shores  of  the  sea,  the  question  arose 
in  my  mind  how  I  was  to  obtain  a  bath  without 
leaving  all  my  effects  at  the  mercy  of  the  Bedouin, 
whose  manifestations  —  such  as  reloading  his  gun, 
examining  his  ammunition,  and  whetting  his 
sword  —  were  anything  but  reassuring.  Such  was 
my  situation  in  the  desert,  alone,  and  twelve  miles 
from  any  human  being  of  my  own  race.  Finally 
I  bethought  me  of  a  ruse.  As  well  as  I  could 
make  myself  understood  by  means  of  signs,  I  in- 
timated to  my  companion  my  misgivings  as  to  the 
safety  of  the  contemplated  plunge :  and  finally 
after  some  difficulty,  succeeded  in  persuading  him 
to  precede  me  into  the  water.  Once  in,  I  kept  a 
position  between  him  and  the  shore,  in  order  to  be 
master  of  the  situation,  and  seizing  the  opportun- 
ity when  he  had  swam  out  some  distance,  I  step- 
ped out,  and  as  quickly  as  possible  resumed  my 
clothing  and  arms. 

On  my  return  trip,  the  Bedouin's  appearance 
and  demonstrations  being  anything  but  agreeable, 
I  kept  him  in  advance  of  me  until  we  reached 
the  precincts  of  the  next  tribe  when  I  will- 
ingly exchanged  him  for  another  guard,  con- 
gratulating myself  for  the  narrow  escape  from 


260  A   TOUR 

the  danger  into  which  a  spirit  of  adventure  had 
led  me. 

From  the  Dead  Sea  we  followed  the  course  of 
the  river  Jordan  for  an  hour,  lunching  and  bathing 
at  the  traditional  spot  where  Christ  was  baptized 
by  John  the  Baptist  (Matt.  III).  Here  the  river 
is  about  50  yards  wide,  quite  deep  and  muddy, 
with  a  current  running  at  the  velocity  of  8  miles 
an  hour  :  the  banks  are  low,  marshy,  and  treacher- 
ous ;  a  fact  which  we  well  recall  from  the  circum- 
stance of  the  partial  loss  of  our  lunch,  and  the 
narrow  escape  of  our  sumpter  horse,  who,  poor 
beast,  suffering  from  heat  and  thirst,  ventured  to 
the  edge  of  the  stream,  and  losing  his  foothold 
came  near  being  carried  away  by  the  swift  cur- 
rent. 

This  is  supposed  to  be  the  place  where  the 
Israelites  crossed  ;  where  Elijah  divided  the  waters, 
and  passing  over  ascended  in  a  chariot  of  fire  to 
Heaven,  and  where  Elisha  on  whom  the  mantle  of 
Elijah  had  fallen,  smote  the  waters  and  again 
divided  them. 

During  Easter  Monday  after  Passion  Week 
Christian  Pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  the  world 
come,  mounted  on  horses,  donkeys,  and  camels, 
to  bathe  in  the  Jordan  at  this  spot.  This  motley 
throng  composed  of  every  sect  and  nationality, 
men,  women,  and  children  in  every  variety  of 
costume,  shouting  and  wrangling  in  every  known 
language  under  the  sun,  present  a  most  novel  and 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  261 

animated  scene  of  the  cosmopolitan  life  of  the 
East. 

Crossing  the  plain  of  the  Jordan  where  the 
heat  is  intense,  we  camped  at  the  site  of  ancient 
Jericho  at  the  foot  of  the  high  mountain  where 
Christ,  after  his  forty  days  fast,  was  tempted  by 
the  devil  (Matt.  IV. — 8-12)  ;  and  above  the  Foun- 
tain of  Elisha  whose  waters  he  healed  and  con- 
verted from  bitter  to  sweet  (II.  Kings,  II — 21-23). 

Jericho  was  built  by  Herod,  and  it  was  here 
he  died  :  and  near  it  was  the  tree  climbed  by  Zac- 
cheus  to  enable  him  to  view  Jesus  as  he  passed 
through  the  vast  concourse  of  people  (Luke,  XIX. 
1-5).  Here  also  grew  the  famous  Balsam  shrubs 
which  possessed  the  virtue  of  healing  wounds, 
presented  by  Mark  Antony  to  Cleopatra,  and 
which  she  caused  to  be  removed  to  Heliopolis 
when  she  sold  the  ground  to  Herod. 

From  Jericho  we  crossed  the  brook  Cherith, 
passed  the  cave  where  Elisha  was  fed  by  the 
ravens,  the  place  where  the  she-bears  lurked  to 
tear  the  "forty  and  two  wicked  children"  (II. 
Kings,  II. — 24),  and  lunched  among  the  ruins  of 
the  Samaritan  inn:  afterwards  passing  the  spot 
where  a  certain  man  fell  among  thieves  (Luke,  X. 
— 30-36)  we  reached  Bethany,  where  we  de- 
scended into  the  tomb  of  Lazarus,  and  visited  the 
ruins  of  the  house  of  Mary  and  Martha  (John,  XL). 

From  Bethany  we  followed  the  road  by  which 
Christ  made  his  triumphal  entry  into  Jerusalem, 


262  A    TOUR 

passing  the  site  of  the  fig-tree  which  he  cursed 
(Mark,  XL) ;  the  field  which  henceforth  pro- 
duced but  stones  ;  and  camped  on  the  Mount  of 
Olives  from  which  point  is  obtained  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  Holy  City. 


CHAPTER   XXL 

SINJEL  :  NABLOUS  :  SAMARIA  :  JEZREEL  :  NAZARETH  : 
THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE  :  TIBERIAS  I  CAPERNAUM  : 
DAN  :  CdESAREA  PHILIPPI  :  DAMASCUS  I  BAALBEC  : 
BEYROUT. 

LEAVING  Jerusalem  for  the  north  we  crossed  the 
hill  of  Neby  Samwil  —  the  Biblical  Mizpah  where 
Saul  was  elected  the  first  king  of  Israel ;  de- 
scended to  the  village  and  pool  of  Gibeon  where 
Solomon  asked  of  God  wisdom  to  govern  his 
people  ;  passed  Ramah  where  Samuel  was  born 
and  Beira  where  Joseph  and  Mary  missed  Jesus, 
after  a  day's  journey.  We  stopped  for  rest  and 
refreshment  at  Bethel  where  Jacob  with  his  head 
on  a  stone  dreamed  of  a  ladder  that  reached  to 
heaven,  and  saw  angels  ascending  and  descending 
thereon  ;  and  camped  for  the  night  at  Sinjel  near 
the  Robbers'  Fountain. 

From  here  we  passed  through  Shiloh  where 
the  Ark  of  the  Covenant  rested  for  300  years ; 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  263 

and  where  Eli  fell  down  and  broke  his  neck  ;  fur- 
ther on  the  well  of  Haran  where  Jacob  first  met 
Rachel  (Gen.  XXIX.) ;  Joseph's  tomb  where  he 
was  buried  after  being  brought  up  out  of  Egypt 
(Josh.  XXIV. — 32);  and  the  well  which  Jacob  dug 
after  buying  the  land  of  the  sons  of  Hamor  for 
100  pieces  of  silver,  and  where  Jesus  sat  talking 
to  the  woman  of  Samaria  (John,  IV. — 5-3 1). 

Nablous  —  or  Shechem  —  one  of  the  cities  of 
refuge  whose  history  dates  back  4,000  years,  is 
situated  in  a  beautiful  valley  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Ebal  and  Mount  Gerizim,  between  which  Moses 
commanded  Joshua  to  read  the  laws  before  the 
congregation  of  Israel.  Here  Abraham  first 
pitched  his  tent  in  Canaan ;  here  Simeon  and 
Levi  murdered  the  male  population  to  revenge 
the  dishonor  of  their  sister  Dinah  ;  and  here  Re- 
hoboam  was  proclaimed  king  over  Israel. 

The  inhabitants,  who  are  Samaritans  number- 
ing about  1,000,  believe  only  in  the  Pentateuch 
or  first  five  books  of  Moses  ;  they  claim  to  be  the 
true  Jews ;  and  in  their  synagogue  show  the 
celebrated  Samaritan  Codex  said  to  be  4,000 
years  old. 

On  the  top  of  Mount  Gerizim  where  the 
twelve  stones  of  the  tribes  of  Israel  were  set 
up,  traditions  say  that  Abraham  met  Mel- 
chisedec  ;  and  that  here  also  he  prepared  to  sac- 
rifice his  son.  On  this  mountain  during  the 
months  of  April  and  May  the  Samaritans  en- 


264  A   TOUR 

camp,  and  on  the  traditional  spot  offer  up  a  burnt 
sacrifice  of  a  ram. 

After  leaving  Nablous  we  rode  through  a  fer- 
tile and  well-cultivated  valley  to  Samaria,  and 
camped  on  the  ruins  of  Ahab's  Ivory  Palace 
which  stands  on  the  top  of  a  lone  hill  300  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  plain,  with  expansive  views 
in  every  direction.  Here  are  the  remains  of 
Herod's  noble  colonnade  of  which  about  100  of 
the  granite  columns  yet  stand  ;  and  it  was  on 
this  site  that  once  stood  the  great  temple  of  Baal. 
The  city  was  besieged  during  the  reign  of  Ahab, — 
who  married  the  notorious  Jezebel, —  by  the  king 
of  Damascus  ;  and  the  suffering  of  the  inhabitants 
during  the  three  years'  siege,  was  one  of  the  most 
frightful  on  record  ;  it  is  recounted  among  other 
horrors  that  mothers  actually  boiled  their  dis- 
membered infants  for  food.  The  siege  was  finally 
raised,  as  predicted  by  Elisha  the  prophet  (II 
Kings,  VI.— 24-33  ;  VII.— 1-20). 

From  Samaria  we  visited  the  site  of  Dothan 
where  Elisha  dwelt ;  and  near  by  the  pit  into 
which  Joseph  was  cast  by  his  brethren  ;  thence 
to  Jenin  and  through  the  plain  of  Esdraelon 
which  is  environed  by  the  hills  of  Samaria,  those 
of  Galilee  and  of  Gilboa,  and  Mount  Carmel. 
This  plain  which  is  20  miles  long  by  12  wide  was 
the  scene  of  the  great  battles  of  Palestine.  It 
was  here,  near  the  river  Kishon  that  the  battle 
was  fought  between  the  armies  of  Baruk  and 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  265 

Jabin  ;  when  Sisera,  general  of  the  army  of  the 
latter  fled  on  foot  to  the  tent  of  Jael,  who  after 
inviting  him  in  to  rest  and  giving  him  drink, 
drove  a  nail  into  his  temple  ;  here  also  Joshua, 
Benhadad,  Saul,  Gideon,  Tamerlane,  Tancred, 
Coeur  de  Lion,  Saladin,  and  Napoleon  have 
fought  bloody  battles  and  added  pages  of  history 
to  this  already  celebrated  spot. 

At  night  we  camped  at  Jezreel  the  capital  of 
Ahab  and  the  wicked  Jezebel,  the  scene  first  of 
their  crimes,  and  later  of  their  retribution  (I  Kings, 
XXI.),  and  from  here  we  passed  the  Fountain  of 
Gideon,  where  he  encamped  his  army  previous  to 
the  attack  on  Shunem  (Judges,  VII). 

It  was  in  Shunem  that  Elijah  restored  the 
child  of  the  Shunamite  to  life ;  from  this  town  we 
rode  around  the  mountain  of  Little  Hermon  to 
Nain,  where  Jesus  resuscitated  the  widow's  son 
(Luke,  VII. — 1 1-16),  and  beyond,  to  Endor  where 
we  visited  the  cave  in  which  lived  the  witch  whom 
Saul  consulted  before  going  into  battle  (I  Samuel 
XXVIII. —  7-15). 

After  thus  diverging,  we  returned,  and  con- 
tinued through  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  stopping 
at  Debiereh  the  home  of  the  prophetess  Deborah ; 
and  ascended  Mount  Tabor,  the  scene  of  the 
Transfiguration,  which  rises  like  a  cone  in  the 
midst  of  the  plain,  whence  is  obtained  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  adjacent  country. 

Nazareth,   the  scene  of  the  Annunciation  and 


266  A   TOUR 

the  home  of  the  Saviour  during  his  boyhood's 
years,  contains  a  population  of  6,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill  overlooking  a 
lovely  valley ;  but  its  streets,  like  those  of  all 
Eastern  cities  are  narrow,  crooked  and  filthy. 
At  the  entrance  of  the  town  is  the  Fountain  of  the 
Virgin  where  Mary  was  in  the  habit  of  drawing 
water,  and  which  the  Greeks  claim  was  the  scene 
of  the  Annunciation  ;  while  to-day  as  then,  it  is 
the  favorite  resort  of  the  Nazarene  maidens,  who 
assemble  here  to  fill  their  jugs  which  they  carry 
away  gracefully  poised  on  their  heads. 

The  Church  of  the  Annunciation  where  the 
Latins  claim  the  angel  appeared  to  the  Virgin,  is 
built  over  the  house  of  the  Holy  Family  which  is 
divided  into  three  small  underground  apart- 
ments ;  a  broken  column  indicating  the  spot 
where  the  angel  appeared,  and  a  cross  where  the 
Virgin  stood  while  receiving  his  message. 

A  church  also  covers  the  site  of  the  carpenter 
shop  where  Jesus  and  Joseph  worked  at  their  trade: 
another  incloses  an  immense  rock  on  which  Christ 
and  his  disciples  ate;  and  the  synagogue  is  shown 
from  which  Jesus  was  driven  while  preaching. 

In  Nazareth  as  elsewhere  throughout  the 
country,  the  sites  of  holy  places  are  covered  by 
churches  of  the  Latins  or  Greeks,  each  sect  often 
claiming  a  different  locality  for  the  identical  asso- 
ciation, and  building  thereon  a  commemorative 
church. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  26/ 

From  Nazareth  to  Tiberius,  we  passed  Gath 
Hepher ;  and  Cana  of  Galilee  where  Christ  per- 
formed his  first  miracle — excepting  those  recorded 
in  the  rejected  books;  and  here  we  visited  an  old 
church  in  which  are  two  huge  earthen  pots 
which  are  claimed  to  be  the  identical  ones  used  at 
the  marriage  feast  (John,  II. — 1-12). 

Passing  Lubieh  and  Beth-arbel,  we  stopped 
for  our  mid-day  repast  on  the  summit  of  Horn- 
Hattin  —  or  Mount  of  Beatitudes  —  where  Christ 
preached  His  famous  sermon  on  the  Mount  (Matt 
V.  VI.  VII).  Here  the  last  great  battle  of  the 
Crusade  of  1187  was  fought,  the  Sultan  Saladin 
completely  exterminating  the  army  of  the  Chris- 
tians. 

The  Sea  of  Galilee,  or  Lake  of  Tiberius,  is  14 
miles  in  length  and  6  in  breadth,  and  of  the  many 
cities  that  once  clustered  along  its  shores  only  a 
few  scattering  villages  now  remain.  While  Jose- 
phus  describes  its  surface  covered  with  vessels, 
and  naval  conflicts  taking  place  upon  its  waters,  it 
is  now  as  quiet  as  the  grave,  with  only  a  few  rude 
fishing  boats  with  their  drowsy  occupants,  break- 
ing the  monotony  of  the  scene. 

After  the  expulsion  of  Jesus  from  Nazareth 
He  dwelt  upon  the  banks  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee, 
and  consequently  nearly  every  foot  of  its  shore  is 
consecrated  ground.  Here  He  passed  three  of 
the  most  eventful  years  of  His  life  :  here  He  chose 
His  apostles,  while  the  multitudes  followed  Him, 


268  A    TOUR 

and  here  He  performed  his  most  noted  mira- 
cles. 

The  town  of  Tiberias  on  the  borders  of  the 
sea,  was  built  by  Herod  Antipas  and  named 
after  the  Roman  emperor.  It  once  extended  for 
two  miles  along  the  shore  from  the  site  of  the 
present  town  to  the  natural  hot  baths,  which  are 
still  extant;  but  it  is  now  confined  to  a  very  small 
area.  Its  walls  are  in  many  places  in  a  ruinous 
condition,  and  the  place  looks  quaint  and  old.  On 
the  water's  edge  is  a  small  convent  built  on  the 
site  of  Peter's  house  and  near  which  it  is  said  the 
miraculous  draught  of  fishes  took  place  (John, 
XXI.  1-15  and  Luke  V.— 1-12). 

The  inhabitants  of  Tiberias  are  mostly  Jews 
who  believe  the  Messiah  will  yet  come  and  estab- 
lish his  throne  at  Safed. 

Taking  one  of  the  small  fishing-boats  on  the 
Sea  of  Galilee  which  ply  at  the  rate  of  two  miles 
an  hour,  giving  rise  to  the  irreverent  but  very 
suggestive  remark  of  an  impatient  American 
"  it  was  no  wonder  Christ  got  out  and  walked," 
we  passed  Magdala,  the  village  where  Mary 
Magdalene  was  born  ;  the  place  where  the  miracle 
of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes  was  performed  (John, 
VI. — 1-22);  Bethsaida,  where  are  yet  to  be  seen 
large  columns  and  stone  ruins  lying  in  every 
direction  ;  and  camped  for  the  night  on  the 
site  of  ancient  Capernaum,  at  the  upper  end  of 
this  beautiful  sheet  of  water  so  teeming  with  his- 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  269 

torical  interest  Capernaum  commands  the  finest 
situation  on  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  and  its  extensive 
ruins  show  it  to  have  been  a  -place  of  great 
importance. 

For  the  first  time  since  our  sojourn  in  the  Holy 
Land  we  were  impressed  with  the  solemnity  of 
our  surroundings :  here  the  desecrating  hand  of 
man  has  not  marred  the  effect  of  association  by 
the  rearing  of  shrines  and  churches,  but  Nature 
alone  chants  the  solemn  requiem  :  here  no  Eblis 
of  contention  and  rivalry  exists,  but  the  spirit  of 
peace  and  holiness  broods  like  the  dove  over 
the  quiet  scene. 

Continuing  north  we  passed  in  view  of  Safed 
on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  which  is  identified 
as  "  the  city  set  on  a  hill  that  cannot  be  hid," 
crossed  the  rocky  highlands  of  Napthalie,  where 
we  met  large  caravans,  one  of  them  alone  number- 
ing 500  camels,  and  continuing  up  the  valley  of 
the  Jordan,  camped  for  the  night  at  the  waters  of 
Merom,  surrounded  by  about  100,000  Bedouin 
Arabs,  with  their  large  herds  of  buffaloes.  This 
is  the  strongest  tribe  in  Syria  ;  in  time  of  war 
mounting  10,000  men  on  blooded  mares,  and 
90,000  on  camels.  Riding  around  the  Great 
Marsh,  and  passing  by  Beth-Rehob,  we  crossed 
an  old  Roman  bridge  and  halted  for  lunch  at  Dan 
just  above  a  large  spring  of  clear  water,  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Jordan.  Dan  is  the  ancient  Laish 
which  the  children  of  Dan  took,  and  named  after 


2/0  A   TOUR 

their  father,  and  is  situated  on  the  northern  bor- 
der of  Palestine  as  Beersheba  is  on  the  southern  ; 
hence  the  saying:  "from  Dan  to  Beersheba." 

From  here  we  rode  to  Caesarea  Philippi, 
where  we  camped  for  the  night  near  another 
source  of  the  Jordan  whose  waters  rise  in  a  cavern 
formerly  dedicated  to  the  god  Pan.  It  was  in 
Caesarea  Philippi,  that  Jesus  delegated  to  Peter  the 
keys  of  Heaven,  saying:  "Thou  art  Peter,  and 
upon  this  rock  I  will  build  my  church "  (Matt. 
XVI.— 18-19). 

On  the  roofs  of  the  village  houses  are  struc- 
tures, resembling  birds'  nests,  formed  of  branches 
and  leaves,  and  supported  by  poles  at  either 
corner,  in  which  the  inhabitants  sleep  in  summer 
to  avoid  the  heat  and  insects. 

From  Caesarea  Philippi  we  ascended  the  rough 
slopes  of  Hermon,  and  visited  the  ruined  castle 
of  Banias  standing  on  a  height  of  5,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  supposed  to  have  been 
built  in  the  time  of  the  Herods;  and  com- 
manded by  Josephus. 

Further  on  we  passed  the  village  of  Medjee 
Eshshems  whose  inhabitants  are  Druses ;  Beit- 
Jenn  on  the  banks  of  a  tributary  of  the  Parphar 
and  at  the  foot  of  high  and  rugged  rocks  in  which 
are  cut  numbers  of  tombs,  and  camped  for  the 
night  at  Kafr-Hauwar,  where  is  the  reputed 
tomb  of  Nimrod,  the  mighty  hunter. 

Damascus,  the  oldest  and  most  Oriental   city 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  2/1 

in  the  world,  was  founded  by  Uz,  the  grandson 
of  Noah  ;  dates  back  over  4,000  years ;  and  now 
contains  175,000  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  a 
fertile  and  well-watered  valley  between  the  rivers 
Pharpar  and  Abana;  this  oasis  of  the  desert 
being  claimed  by  some  to  be  the  site  of  the  Gar- 
den of  Eden. 

From  the  heights  of  Salihneh,  before  entering 
the  city,  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  Damascus 
with  its  many  domes  and  towering  minarets.  It 
was  from  this  point  that  Mohammed,  when  a 
camel  driver,  first  viewed  the  city,  and  refused  to 
enter,  saying :  "  Man  can  have  but  one  Paradise, 
and  my  Paradise  is  fixed  above." 

In  Damascus  one  sees  the  Arab  and  Turk  in 
their  original  state,  free  from  the  taint  of  Eu- 
ropean civilization ;  and  business  transacted  as  it 
was  thousands  of  years  ago.  The  interior  of 
many  of  the  houses  are  richly  furnished,  and  have 
large  courts  filled  with  flowers  and  sparkling 
fountains.  In  the  narrow  and  tortuous  streets 
may  be  heard  to  this  day,  men  relating  the  story 
of  Joseph  and  his  brethren,  and  the  adventures 
of  Haroun  Al  Raschid  ;  as  centuries  ago  the  blind 
Bard  of  the  seven  cities  went  from  place  to  place 
reciting  his  undying  epics. 

The  bazaars  far  surpass  those  of  Cairo  and 
Constantinople  in  cleanliness,  variety  and  beauty 
of  display.  The  merchants  are  richly  dressed 
in  gay-colored  attire,  and  sit  cross-legged  on 


272  A   TOUR 

Turkish  rugs  among  their  wares;  here  are  dis- 
played all  the  various  products  of  the  Orient — 
spices  and  perfumes  from  Arabia ;  dates  from 
Nubia;  ivory  and  ostrich  plumes  from  Egypt; 
tobacco  from  Latakia  ;  satins  from  Aleppo ; 
rich  fabrics  from  India;  silks  from  China; 
pearls  from  Ceylon,  and  steel  blades  and  brazen 
ornaments,  manufactures  of  Damascus 

The  city  is  divided  into  sections,  separating 
Mohammedans,  Jews  and  Christians,  by  iron 
gates  which  are  closed  at  nightfall  and  in  times  of 
disturbance.  The  Mohammedans  bear  a  great 
antipathy  towards  the  followers  of  Christ ;  and  in 
1860  massacred  all  the  Christians  in  the  city  ex- 
cepting those  who  effected  their  escape  to  their 
stronghold. 

Damascus  is  noted  for  its  cafes,  and  for  its 
manufactories  of  silks  and  jewels ;  and  is  a  great 
centre  for  the  fitting  out  of  caravans  for  the 
Bedouin  districts  ;  whence  they  return  laden  with 
rugs,  skins  and  other  articles  of  traffic. 

The  Great  Mosque,  one  of  the  finest  of  all  the 
Mohammedan  places  of  worship^is  built  on  the  site 
of  an  ancient  temple,  many  of  the  columns  of  which 
are  still  standing.  It  has  two  courts  and  three 
minarets  and  in  its  centre  stands  a  gilt  iron  cage, 
in  which  they  claim  is  the  head  of  John  the  Baptist. 

In  the  cemetery  are  the  tombs  of  Mohammed's 
numerous  family ;  and  that  of  St.  George,  the  tu- 
telary saint  of  England. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  2/3 

In  the  city  are:  ''the  street  called  Straight;'* 
the  house  of  Judas  where  Saul  was  taken ;  the 
house  of  Ananias  and  Sapphira  whom  the  Lord 
destroyed  for  their  perjury:  the  Leper's  hospital 
on  the  site  where  once  stood  Naaman's  house ; 
and  the  wall  from  which  Saul  was  lowered 
in  a  basket.  A  short  distance  beyond  the  city 
gates  is  the  spot  where  Saul  on  his  way  from 
Jerusalem  to  Damascus,  to  persecute  the  Chris- 
tians, saw  the  Divine  light  and  was  converted 
(Acts,  IX.). 

From  Damascus  we  followed  the  Abana  river 
to  the  Fountain  of  Fijeh,  where  tradition  says 
Balaam  watered  his  ass;  passed  the  town  of 
Columns,  and  camped  at  the  village  of  Suk,  lo- 
cated at  the  base  of  a  steep  mountain,  on  top  of 
which  we  visited  the  ruins  of  an  old  marble 
temple  said  to  have  been  built  on  the  spot  where 
Cain  killed  his  brother,  and  beyond,  about  30 
yards,  covered  by  a  shrine,  is  the  reputed  tomb 
of  Abel. 

Making  an  early  start  the  following  morning, 
we  passed  over  a  road  and  along  an  aqueduct  cut 
in  the  solid  rock  by  the  Romans  164  years  B. 
C.  Further  on  we  reached  the  town  of  Abi- 
lene, where  there  are  tombs  cut  high  up  in  the 
rocks ;  then  Bludan  the  summer  residence  of  the 
consuls  of  Damascus  ;  and  passing  Yafufeh,  and 
the  tomb  of  Seth,  we  arrived  at  Baalbec  after 
having  been  ten  hours  in  the  saddle. 
18 


2/4  A   TOUR 

The  ruins  of  Baalbec  are  among  the  finest  on 
earth ;  their  magnificence  and  magnitude  of 
columns  and  blocks  of  stone  having  been  for  cen- 
turies the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the  world. 
These  ruins  are  900  feet  long  by  500  wide, 
built  on  an  artificial  platform  raised  thirty  feet 
above  the  plain,  and  have  immense  vaults  under- 
neath, the  foundation  blocks  being  bevelled  and 
fitted  together  similarly  to  those  in  the  Temple 
at  Jerusalem.  Owing  to  the  discovery  of  Jewish 
architecture  amid  the  Doric,  Tuscan,  and  Corin- 
thian ruins,  it  is  considered  by  many  archaeolo- 
gists to  have  been  the  House  of  the  Forest  of  Le- 
banon which  Solomon  built  for  his  Egyptian 
wife,  and  which  is  not  improbable  from  the  fact 
that  his  successors  were  idolaters  ;  and  this  his 
dwelling  place  was  consecrated  to  the  worship  of 
Baal,  or  the  sun  ;  Baalbec  of  the  Syrians  having 
the  same  meaning  as  Heliopolis  of  the  Greeks  — 
City  of  the  Sun. 

On  the  immense  foundation  where  rise  these 
ruins,  several  stone  blocks  of  which  measure 
63  feet  long,  15  wide,  and  13  deep,  stood  two  or 
more  temples  of  immense  magnitude  :  the  Temple 
•of  the  Sun  was  surrounded  by  Corinthian  columns 
80  feet  high,  and  22  in  circumference,  only  six  of 
which  remain  standing :  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  is 
yet  comparatively  intact,  and  is  about  230  feet 
long  by  125  feet  broad:  many  of  its  columns 
.are  crowned  by  magnificently-carved  capitals,  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  275 

such  extent  as  would  compare  with  the  size  of  a 
cottage. 

A  mile  distant,  in  the  quarries,  there  yet 
remains  a  huge  block  of  stone  partially  hewn, 
measuring  70  feet  long,  17  wide,  and  14  thick, 
and  of  sufficient  area  to  allow  of  two  wagons 
being  driven  on  it  abreast.  Viewing  these  relics  of 
long  past  eras  the  question  is  naturally  suggested 
as  to  the  means  employed  to  elevate  these  huge 
masses  to  their  designated  positions  at  a  period 
when  the  science  of  engineering  was  still  in  its 
incipiency. 

From  Baalbec  we  rode  through  the  valley 
between  Anti- Lebanon  and  Lebanon  proper,  and 
traversed  the  country  to  which  the  spies  were 
sent  by  the  Children  of  Israel  to  explore,  and  who 
returning,  brought  with  them  immense  bunches  of 
grapes  as  evidence  of  the  richness  of  the  land. 

On  the  road  to  Estura,  where  we  proposed 
camping  for  the  night,  we  visited  the  tomb  of 
Noah,  which  is  70  yards  long,  and  inclosed  in  a 
Mohammedan  shrine. 

On  the  following  day,  we  crossed  the  moun- 
tains of  Lebanon,  stopping  for  rest  and  refresh- 
ment under  its  famous  cedars,  after  which  we 
resumed  our  route  reaching,  in  the  evening, 
Beyrout,  a  town  of  100,000  inhabitants,  on  the 
sea-coast;  its  hotels,  banks,  and  shops  recalling 
us  once  more  to  the  essentials  of  civilization. 


2/6  A   TOUR 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

LARNICA  I       RHODES  :       SMYRNA  :      EPHESUS  :      PIRAEUS  I 
ATHENS  :    ITS  ENVIRONS. 

LEAVING  Beyrout  by  an  Austrian  Lloyd  steamer, 
we  had  a  most  delightful  trip  through  the  Medi- 
terranean, and  the  Grecian  Archipelago,  sailing 
amid  the  beautiful  islands  so  celebrated  in  historic 
and  classic  lore,  and  landed  on  the  island  of  Cy- 
prus, one  of  the  first  places  where  Christianity 
was  established,  and  where  Paul  and  Barnabas 
preached. 

We  went  ashore  at  Larnica,  a  small  town 
inhabited  by  Greeks,  and  spent  the  day  rambling 
about  the  place.  Here  we  visited  the  Greek 
church  which  contains  the  tomb  of  Lazarus,  who 
having  moved  here  after  his  resurrection  from  the 
dead,  became  the  first  Christian  bishop  of  Cyprus. 
This  was  also  the  birthplace  of  Zeno,  who  founded 
the  sect  of  Stoics  and  taught  at  Athens  the  doc- 
trine that  men  should  be  free  from  all  passion  or 
emotion. 

Rhodes  on  an  island  of  the  same  name  and 
so  called  from  its  abundance  of  roses,  is  a  most 
favored  spot.  It  is  situated  on  a  hill  which  slopes 
down  to  a  miniature  bay,  and  has  a  delightful 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  2// 

climate.  Rhodes  is  chiefly  renowned  for  the 
Colossus  which  once  spanned  the  bay  at  its  en- 
trance. This  was  the  figure  of  a  man  in  brass  105 
feet  in  height,  his  extended  legs  forming  an  arch- 
way through  which  the  small  crafts  of  the  period 
could  readily  pass,  and  was  classed  as  the  6th 
wonder  of  the  world.  It  was  built  290  B.  C.  and 
was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  the  fragments 
being  sold  by  the  6th  caliph  to  a  Jew  who  loaded 
900  camels  with  800  Ibs.  each. 

Rhodes  was  also  distinguished  in  ancient 
times  for  its  liberty,  learning,  and  valor,  and  in 
modern  times  for  its  defences  conducted  by  the 
knights  of  St.  John;  the  Rue  des  Chevaliers — or 
street  of  the  knights  —  yet  containing  many  old 
houses  on  which  are  sculptured  in  stone  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  knights. 

From  here  we  entered  the  Archipelago  passing 
the  site  of  Halicarnassus  where  stood  the  Mauso- 
leum of  Mausolus,  king  of  Caria,  erected  by 
Artemisia,  his  wife  and  sister,  350  B.  C.  and 
reckoned  the  5th  wonder  of  the  world  ;  Symi, 
noted  for  its  corals  and  sponges  and  the  expert- 
ness  of  its  male  and  female  divers ;  Patmos,  where 
St.  John  wrote  the  Revelations,  having  been 
banished  there  by  the  Emperor  Domitian  for 
preaching  the  Gospel  of  Christ;  Samos,  celebrated 
in  classic  literature  as  the  birthplace  of  Juno  and 
Pythagoras,  and  for  a  long  time  the  home  of 
Herodotus,  who  here  compiled  the  greater  portion 

OF 


278  A   TOUR 

of  his  history ;  and  Scio,  which  we  saw  partly  in 
ruins,  having  been  recently  visited  by  a  fearful 
earthquake,  and  under  whose  fallen  walls  yet  lay 
buried  the  remains  of  hundreds  of  human 
beings. 

Smyrna,  which  stands  foremost  among  the 
cities  of  Asia  Minor,  has  a  population  of  160,000, 
and  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  Alex- 
ander the  Great.  It  is  the  only  city  of  the  Seven 
Churches  addressed  by  the  apostle  St.  John, 
which  has  retained  its  importance  down  to  the 
present  time,  and  is  also  one  of  the  seven  cities 
that  lay  claim  to  having  given  birth  to  Homer : 

"  Seven  Grecian  cities  strove  for  Homer  dead. 

Through  which  the  living  Homer  begged  his  bread." 

Its  inhabitants  have  erected  a  temple  near  the 
grotto  where  it  is  said  he  conceived  his  immortal 
epic,  the  Iliad. 

On  Mount  Pagus,  a  hill  overlooking  Smyrna 
are  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  near  which  is  the 
spot  where  Polycarp  the  first  bishop  of  the  city 
was  burnt  at  the  stake,  and  near  by  is  his  tomb. 
The  principal  export  of  this  city  is  figs,  and  cara- 
vans daily  import  the  indigenous  products  of  Asia 
Minor. 

A  two  hours'  trip  from  Smyrna,  by  rail, 
brought  us  to  the  ruins  of  Ephesus  once  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  cities  of  the  world,  whose 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  279 

origin  was  attributed  to  the  Amazons ;  and  es- 
pecially noted  for  the  Temple  of  Diana,  the  3d 
wonder  of  the  world.  This  temple  which  was 
425  feet  in  length,  and  225  in  breadth,  the  whole 
supported  by  127  superb  columns,  each  the  gift 
of  a  king,  was  built  552  years  B.  C.  Its  erection 
required  an  incredible  number  of  workmen  ;  the 
most  skilful  painters  and  sculptors  being  employed 
in  the  decorations  of  the  edifice.  The  statue  of 
Diana  was  of  ebony ;  and  legend  avers  was  a  gift 
direct  from  Jupiter  to  the  Ephesians.  This 
temple  was  burned  by  Herostratus,  who  sought 
thus  to  acquire  a  meritricious  fame;  the  event  oc- 
curring on  the  very  day  of  the  birth  of  Alexander 
the  Great,  356  B.  C. 

At  Ephesus  are  also  the  ruins  of  the  great 
theatre  which  seated  60,000  people,  and  into 
which  Demetrius  with  his  fellow  craftsmen  drew 
Gaius  and  Aristarchus  —  Paul's  companions  — 
shouting :  "  Great  is  Diana  of  the  Ephesians !'" 
(Acts  XIX —  21-41.)  Here  also  are  the  ruins  of 
the  school  of  Tyrannous ;  the  Agora,  or  market- 
place ;  the  Odeum,  and  the  Stadium  which  seated 
75,000  people;  the  Gymnasium;  the  old  Aqueduct, 
40  columns  of  which  still  remain,  and  on  the  top 
of  several  we  saw  storks  standing  guard  over  their 
curious  nests;  the  cemetery  with  numbers  of  stone 
sarcophagi ;  the  prison  of  St.  Paul,  on  an  eleva- 
tion; the  tombs  of  St.  Luke  and  St.  John,  and  the 
baptismal  font  of  the  latter.  In  the  side  of  the 


280  A   TOUR 

hill  of  Prion,  is  the  cave  of  the  Seven  Sleepers, 
where  the  seven  young  men  slept  for  over  200 
years.  Near  Ephesus,  flows  the  river  Meander 
from  whose  tortuous  course  is  derived  the  word 
meander. 

It  was  in  this  city  that  Apollo  and  his  sister 
Diana  were  born  ;  here  Syrinx  was  changed  into 
a  reed,  and  here  also  the  god  Pan  dwelt  in  the 
caves  of  the  hill  of  Coressus ;  here  roamed  the 
Amazons,  and  here  their  contests  with  Bacchus 
and  Hercules  ;  and  here  also,  is  claimed  the  na- 
tivity of  Homer. 

Ephesus  was  visited  by  successive  celebrities 
of  the  different  eras  —  Alcibiades,  Lysander, 
Agesilaus,  Alexander  the  Great,  Hannibal,  An- 
tiochus,  Scipio,  Lucullus,  Sulla,  Pompey,  Brutus, 
Cassius,  Cicero  and  Augustus. 

Here  Antony  administered  justice;  and  leav- 
ing his  seat  in  court  followed  Cleopatra  as  she 
passed  the  door.  Later  he  sailed  with  her  from 
this  port,  in  a  galley  ornamented  with  gold  and 
silken  sails  rowed  by  black  slaves  and  filled  with 
beautiful  dancing  girls,  and  winged  Cupids;  while 
they  made  love  in  the  midst  of  perfumed  breezes, 
to  the  sound  of  voluptuous  strains  of  music  and 
the  dipping  of  silver  oars. 

Returning  to  Smyrna  we  crossed  the  Archi- 
pelago to  Piraeus,  once  the  great  sea-port  of 
Greece  and  seven  miles  from  Athens. 

Athens,  the  capital  of  Greece,  with  a  popula- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  28l 

tion  of  64,000  owes  its  celebrity  to  its  record  of 
past  grandeur,  its  numerous  ruins  of  architectural 
and  sculptural  art,  and  its  historical  landmarks  of 
many  ages. 

Of  the  modern  city,  the  Palace,  the  Academy 
of  Science,  and  the  Museum  are  its  finest  build- 
ings ;  the  latter  contains  a  fine  collection  of  old 
Grecian  statues,  among  which  is  that  of  Minerva, 
modelled  after  the  lost  masterpiece,  the  Palladium, 
which  the  Greeks  had  stolen  from  Troy  and 
placed  in  the  Parthenon  ;  besides  quantities  of 
arms,  gold  plate,  ornaments,  and  coin  found  in  the 
tomb  of  Agamemnon. 

The  public  gardens  and  open  air  theatres  of 
Athens  are  numerous  and  well  patronized,  and 
often  combine  arenic  and  dramatic  performances. 

The  Acropolis  or  Citadel  crowns  the  summit 
of  a  rocky  hill  which  rises  abruptly  to  a  height  of 
150  feet  from  the  plain  in  the  midst  of  the  city, 
and  has  been  a  fortress  from  the  earliest  ages.  The 
Acropolis  which  was  the  pride  of  Greece,  the  per- 
fection of  art,  and  the  envy  of  the  world  had  four 
distinctive  features  —  the  Fortress  of  the  city ;  the 
Sacred  Shrine  for  sacrificial  offerings ;  the  Treas- 
ury ;  and  the  Museum  of  Art.  It  was  entered 
by  the  Propylaea  —  a  massive  marble  gate-way 
of  the  Doric  order,  and  was  approached  on  either 
side  by  steps  between  which  the  chariots  drove 
up  on  the  natural  rock.  To  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance stands  the  Temple  of  Victory  without 


282  A    TOUR 

Wings ;  and  on  the  left  is  the  Pinacotheca  which 
now  serves  as  a  museum  for  the  statues,  inscrip- 
tions, and  other  antiquities  found  in  the  Acropo- 
lis. 

The  Parthenon  —  a  temple  dedicated  to  Min- 
erva, was  built  during  the  time  of  Pericles  436 
years  B.  C.  at  a  cost  of  $3,000,000.  It  was  of 
white  marble,  230  feet  long  by  100  wide;  the 
walls  were  surrounded  by  48  marble  columns  of 
the  Doric  order  —  34  feet  high  —  most  of  which 
are  yet  standing ;  while  on  the  fa£ade  still  remains 
a  portion  of  the  celebrated  frieze  supposed  to  have 
been  the  work  of  Phidias  representing  the  faces  of 
the  gods,  the  ceremonies  of  the  temple,  and 
chariot  and  horse  races.  In  the  centre  of  the 
temple  stood  the  colossal  statue  of  Minerva,  60 
feet  high,  and  covered  with  gold  and  ivory ;  and 
in  its  vaults  was  kept  the  public  treasure. 

To  the  west  stands  the  temple  of  the  Erec- 
thium  dedicated  to  the  joint  worship  of  Minerva 
and  Neptune  who  disputed  for  the  guardianship 
of  Athens  ;  the  preference  being  adjudged  to  that 
deity  who  should  confer  the  most  useful  gift  to 
man.  Neptune  struck  the  ground  with  his  tri- 
dent and  forthwith  a  horse  sprang  to  life ;  but 
Minerva  caused  an  olive-tree  to  grow  out  of  the 
earth  —  the  emblem  of  peace  and  plenty  ;  and  to 
her  was  given  the  coveted  prize ;  when  she  called 
the  city  Athena,  after  her  own  name  in  Greek. 
The  portico  of  the  temple  is  supported  by  six 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  283 

beautiful  marble  figures  or  Caryatides,  women  of 
Caria,  who  were  condemned  to  support  the 
temple  on  their  heads,  for  joining  Xerxes  against 
their  own  countrymen,  the  Athenians.  Its  Ionic 
columns  are  the  finest  type  of  that  style  of  archi- 
tecture existing;  and  in  its  inclosure  were  en- 
tombed the  remains  of  Cecrops. 

Below  the  Acropolis  were  the  temple  and  the 
theatre  of  Dionysus,  or  Bacchus ;  the  latter  built 
500  years  B.  C.  and  in  a  wonderful  state  of  pre- 
servation. The  stage,  orchestra  and  seats  are  of 
marble ;  the  front  row  of  arm-chairs  being  re- 
served for  the  priests  of  the  temples,  each  having 
the  name  of  the  owner  inscribed  upon  it. 

The  Temple  of  Theseus  surrounded  by  a  colon- 
nade was  erected  to  receive  the  remains  of  that  hero, 
who,  in  order  to  abolish  the  ceremony  of  the  sacrifice 
of  seven  Athenian  maidens  and  as  many  youths, 
sent  annually  as  tribute  to  Minos,  king  of  Crete, 
to  satisfy  the  rapacity  of  Minotaur  a  monster  con- 
fined in  the  Labyrinth,  went  himself  as  one  of  the 
allotted  victims,  to  Crete.  Here  having  been  cast 
into  the  Labyrinth,  he  sought  the  monster,  and  slew 
him,  and  finding  his  way  out  by  means  of  a  ball 
of  thread  given  him  for  the  purpose  by  Ariadne, 
the  king's  daughter,  fled  with  her  from  the 
island. 

In  the  temple  are  preserved  the  code  of  laws 
of  Solon  written  on  tablets  of  stone  ;  and  the  mar- 
ble bas-relief  of  the  soldier  of  Marathon  who 


284  A   TOUR 

bringing  back  the  glad  tidings  of  success  expired 
with  the  word  ''Victory  "  upon  his  lips. 

Other  objects  of  interest  in  Athens  are,  the 
Stadium,  an  immense  amphitheatre  built  in  the 
side  of  the  hill  where  the  games  and  chariot  races 
were  celebrated  annually;  the  Odeum  of  Hero- 
des  Atticus,  a  well-preserved  Roman  theatre ; 
the  Temple  of  Jupiter  of  which  there  remain  only 
1 6  Corinthian  columns,  60  feet  in  height,  one  of 
which  lies  prostrate,  broken  into  singularly  sym- 
metrical sections  from  the  effects  of  an  earthquake  ; 
the  arch  of  Hadrian  which  divides  old  Athens, — the 
city  of  Theseus,  from  new  Athens, — the  city  of 
Hadrian ;  the  Lantern  of  Diogenes,  also  known 
as  the  monument  of  Lysicrates,  a  circular  building 
of  white  marble,  and  the  only  one  remaining  of  a 
series  that  ornamented  the  street  of  Tripods ;  the 
Tower  of  the  Winds,  an  octagonal-shaped  water- 
clock,  each  of  its  sides  facing  the  points  of  the 
Athenian  compass,  and  the  Bema,  or  stone  pulpit 
from  which  Themistocles,  Pericles,  Alcibiades,  and 
Demosthenes  addressed  the  people. 

On  Mars  hill  that  god  was  tried  for  the  mur- 
der of  the  son  of  Neptune  by  the  Areopagus 
which  was  the  highest  judicial  court  of  Athens  : 
and  here  Socrates  was  tried  for  theism,  found 
guilty,  and  sentenced  to  death :  close  by  is  his 
dungeon-prison,  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  where  he 
drank  the  hemlock,  and  where  it  is  said  he  was 
buried  398  B.  C. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  285 

It  was  from  Mars  hill  that  St.  Paul  preached 
to  the  Athenians,  saying :  —  "  for  as  I  passed  by 
and  beheld  your  devotions,  I  found  an  altar  with 
this  inscription  '  to  the  unknown  godJ  Whom 
therefore  ye  ignorantly  worship,  Him  declare  I 
unto  you." 

On  Mount  Lycabettus  is  a  small  Greek  chapel 
dedicated  to  St.  George,  and  on  the  Hill  of  the 
Muses  is  a  marble  monument  to  Philopappus; 
both  points  affording  fine  views  of  the  city,  and  of 
the  Plain  of  Marathon. 

The  most  interesting  excursion  from  Athens  is 
by  carriage  to  Megara,  a  drive  of  four  hours  or 
more. 

En  route  the  first  point  of  interest  is  the  Tem- 
ple of  Apollo  in  the  Daphne  pass.  Here  Daphne 
who  had  bestowed  her  love  upon  the  Ocean,  was 
walking,  when  seen  and  pursued  by  the  enamored 
Apollo,  and  unable  to  reach  her  lover  was  trans- 
formed by  Jupiter  into  a  laurel-tree  at  the  moment 
the  god  was  about  to  embrace  her,  whereupon  he 
plucked  a  branch  therefrom  and  entwined  it 
about  his  head ;  hence  the  origin  of  the  laurel 
wreath. 

From  here  we  continued  along  the  Sacred 
Way  to  Eleusis,  where  are  the  ruins  of  the  tem- 
ples of  Ceres  and  Proserpine,  in  which  the  cele- 
brated Mysteries  were  held.  It  was  in  Eleusis 
that  Euclid,  the  great  mathematician,  was  born, 
and  from  here,  on  a  distant  hill  is  visible  the  point 


286  A    TOUR 

called  the  Seat  of  Xerxes  from  which  he  witnessed 
the  destruction  of  his  fleet  in  the  battle  of  Sala- 
mis. 

At  Megara  we  found  crowds  of  Greeks  assem- 
bled to  celebrate  the  festival  of  Easter  Tuesday.  On 
the  village  green,  with  the  sunny  skies  overhead,  and 
frequent  glimpses  of  the  blue  waters  of  the  bay 
seen  through  the  intervening  foliage,  the  peasants 
dressed  in  their  fanciful  and  beautiful  costumes, — 
the  rich  ornaments  of  which  are  frequently  in- 
herited through  successive  generations — held  this 
their  high  festival  with  national  games,  dances, 
and  music. 

After  enjoying  this  gay  and  picturesque  scene 
for  several  hours,  we  retraced  our  way  to  Athens, 
thence  to  Piraeus  whence  we  embarked  for  Con- 
stantinople. 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 

THE  DARDANELLES  :  SEA  OF  MARMORA  :  CONSTANTINO- 
PLE :  THE  GOLDEN  HORN  :  THE  BOSPHORUS  :  THE 
BLACK  SEA  :  BUDA-PESTH  I  THE  DANUBE. 

SAILING  through  the  Archipelago,  we  passed  the 
island  of  Mitylene,  the  ancient  Lesbos,  which  once 
rivalled  Athens  in  learning  and  art,  and  where  the 
"  burning  Sappho  loved  and  sang  ;"  and  the  island 
of  Tenedos  where  the  Greeks  concealed  them- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  28/ 

selves  when  they  pretended  to  abandon  the  siege 
of  Troy. 

From  here  entering  the  Dardanelles,  or  Helles- 
pont, we  passed  the  site  of  ancient  Troy ;  the 
tombs  of  Ajax,  Hector,  and  Achilles ;  the  harbor 
in  which  the  fleet  of  Agamemnon  lay  at  anchor ; 
and  Abydos,  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel 
where  Xerxes,  with  an  army  of  5,000,000  men, 
consumed  seven  days  and  nights  in  crossing,  and 
which  Leander  nightly  swam  to  visit  his  beloved 
Hero :  a  feat  which  Lord  Byron  successfully  imi- 
tated. 

After  entering  the  Sea  of  Marmora  we  passed 
Mount  Olympus  in  Asia  Minor,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  Brusa,  the  ancient  capital  of  Turkey;  and 
further  on  was  Nicaea  where  the  first  Ecumenical 
Council  was  held.  This  was  presided  over  by 
Constantine,  and  was  convened  for  the  purpose  of 
compiling  the  New  Testament ;  when  certain 
books  were  retained  and  others  rejected  by  bal- 
lot; A.  D.  325. 

Constantinople,  as  known  in  a  general  way 
embraces  four  cities,  namely :  Stamboul,  or  Con- 
stantinople proper,  Galata,  Pera,  and  Scutari ; 
these  are  located  on  three  approximating  penin- 
sulas, and  are  separated  by  the  Sea  of  Marmora, 
the  Golden  Horn,  and  the  Bosphorus.  Their  ag- 
gregate population  numbers  1,000,000  inhabitants 
comprising  almost  every  nationality.  The  nobles 
and  public  officials  are  covetous  and  corrupt, 


288  A   TOUR 

often  selling  offices  to  the  highest  bidder;  and 
the  lower  classes  are  ignorant  and  fanatical;  peace- 
ful enough  habitually,  but  dangerous  when  their 
passions  are  aroused  by  their  priests. 

The  city  occupies  one  of  the  finest  natural 
situations  in  the  world ;  and  as  approached  from 
the  sea  is  very  beautiful,  exhibiting  to  view  a 
multitude  of  domes,  minarets  and  palaces,  with  a 
background  of  the  foliage  of  the  cypress-trees 
which  shade  the  extensive  cemeteries  beyond  the 
walls.  Its  interior  is  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  wind- 
ing, steep,  and  dirty  streets ;  many  of  them  un- 
named, and  all  swarming  with  dogs  —  often  as 
many  as  from  50  to  100  in  a  single  block  —  who 
lie  basking  on  the  pavement  all  day  to  the  great 
discomfort  of  pedestrians  who  must  either  walk 
around  or  step  over  the  lazy  canines.  These  for- 
lorn-looking brutes  are  owned  by  no  one;  dividing 
themselves  into  gangs,  they  inhabit  certain  self- 
apportioned  districts,  going  every  morning  from 
house  to  house  in  search  of  food,  thus  monopo- 
lizing the  office  of  public  scavengers.  This  sys- 
tematic division  of  territory  by  these  canines  is 
something  curious  to  the  observer  of  animal  char- 
acteristics ;  peaceably  inclined  towards  their  fel- 
lows as  long  as  they  confine  themselves  to  their 
own  districts,  woe  to  him  who  oversteps  the 
boundary  of  his  neighbor's  province,  for  from  that 
moment  he  is  a  doomed  dog. 

That  portion  of  the  city  known  as  Stamboul  — 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  289 

the  ancient  Byzantium,  is  on  a  tongue  of  land  be- 
tween the  Sea  of  Marmora  and  the  Golden  Horn. 
It  was  founded  in  656  B.  C.  by  Byzas,  a  Greek 
from  Megara,  who  consulting  the  Oracle  of 
Apollo  at  Delphi  was  commanded  to  build  his 
city  on  this  favorable  site  opposite  Scutari. 

It  was  taken  and  rebuilt  by  Constantine  A.  D. 
328,  who  made  it  the  capital  of  the  Roman  Em- 
pire, from  which  time  it  has  borne  his  name ;  and 
since  then,  through  numerous  sieges  has  been 
captured  only  twice;  first  in  1204  by  the  Cru- 
saders and  lastly  by  the  Turks  in  1453  under 
Mohammed  II.,  who  slaughtered  the  Christians 
that  had  taken  refuge  in  the  Church  of  St.  So- 
phia, and  left  the  mark  of  his  sword,  and  blood- 
stained hand  on  one  of  its  pillars. 

The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  which  though 
1 5  centuries  old,  is  fairly  well  preserved ;  that 
portion  on  the  west,  or  land  side,  being  very 
strong  and  protected  by  the  Seven  Towers,  a 
fortress  and  prison  on  whose  walls  are  carved  the 
names  of  many  a  doomed  captive.  It  was  at  this 
point  the  Russian  army  made  its  attack  in  the 
late  war,  and  outside  of  the  gates  the  treaty  of 
peace  was  signed. 

The  Acropolis,  in  which  is  the  Seraglio,  is 
situated  on  the  extreme  point  of  the  peninsula 
and  was  for  many  centuries  the  imperial  and  min- 
isterial residence  ;  it  is  shut  in  by  lofty  walls  with 
gates  and  towers  nearly  3  miles  in  circumference, 

19 


2QO  A   TOUR 

and  is  entered  by  the  Sublime  Porte  —  a  gate 
once  guarded  by  50  sentinels  —  from  which  the 
government  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  takes  its 
name.  Within  the  enclosure  is  the  throne  of  the 
sultan,  who,  unseen,  gave  audience  to  his  min- 
isters ;  and  here  also  is  the  harem  prison  through 
whose  mysterious  underground  passages  many  a 
disgraced  favorite  was  hurried  to  her  doom  be- 
neath the  silent  waters  of  the  Bosphorus. 

Outside  of  the  Gate  to  the  right,  is  the  stone 
block  where  State  offenders  were  decapitated ;  on 
crosses  over  the  Gate,  their  heads  were  publicly 
exposed ;  and  on  another  stone  to  the  left,  their 
skulls  were  broken  previous  to  burial. 

The  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia  which  was  built  by 
the  Emperor  Justinian  in  538  for  a  Christian 
church,  is  the  finest  Mohammedan  mosque  in 
existence,  and  compares  favorably  in  size  and 
grandeur  with  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  This  mosque 
which,  it  is  said,  employed  the  labor  of  10,000 
workmen  for  7  years,  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin 
cross  surmounted  by  an  immense  dome  surrounded 
by  eight  smaller  ones  and  four  minarets ;  and  is 
270  feet  long,  243  wide,  and  200  high.  Of  its 
170  columns  of  marble,  granite  and  porphyry 
taken  from  various  heathen  temples,  are  those 
from  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Baalbec,  those 
from  the  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus,  and  others 
from  the  temples  of  Heliopolis  and  of  Athens. 
On  the  walls  are  yet  faintly  discerned  the  figure  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  291 

Christ,  and  Christian  symbols,  painted  over  with 
the  names  of  the  Mohammedan  prophets  in 
Arabic  characters  30  feet  in  length. 

The  Mosque  of  Soliman  the  Magnificent,  was 
built  in  1560  by  that  sultan,  to  imitate  and  rival 
that  of  St.  Sophia ;  and  in  his  tomb  which  adjoins 
it,  is  a  model  of  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca.  Near  this 
mosque  was  the  Slave  Market ;  the  grated  pens, 
yet  to  be  seen,  where  the  unfortunate  slaves  were 
displayed  for  sale. 

The  Mosque  of  Sultan  Achmed  ranks  next  in 
magnificence  and  is  the  only  one  that  boasts  of 
six  minarets,  which  is  the  greatest  number  al- 
lowed ;  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca  having  seven,  conse- 
quently all  others  are  restricted  to  a  less  num- 
ber. 

Of  the  remaining  mosques  —  each  vieing  with 
the  other  in  magnificence  —  are  those  of  Mo- 
hammed II.  and  of  Benjazid;  the  latter  giving 
shelter  to  thousands  of  pigeons  which  being  held 
sacred  are  fed  at  public  expense. 

The  finest  of  the  mausolea  of  the  sultans  is 
that  of  Mahmoud;  the  tomb  within  it,  which  is  of 
great  size,  is  covered  with  black  velvet  richly  em- 
broidered in  silver  with  Arabic  characters  and 
other  Oriental  designs,  and  inclosed  by  a  silver 
railing ;  at  its  head  are  costly  camel's-hair  shawls 
and  the  sultan's  fez,  in  which  is  a  magnificent 
diamond  ornament. 

The    Hippodrome    Square,   formerly  a  Greek 


292  A   TOUR 

circus,  contains  the  Obelisk  of  Theodosius  brought 
from  Heliopolis ;  the  Pillar  of  Constantine  and 
the  Serpentine  Column ;  the  latter  consisting  of 
three  twisted  bronze  serpents  brought  from  Del- 
phi where  it  supported  the  tripod  which  the  vic- 
torious Greeks  dedicated  to  Apollo  after  the  great 
Persian  war  when  the  army  of  Xerxes  was 
defeated.  It  was  in  this  Square  that  Justinian's 
great  general,  Belisarius,  was  eulogized  for  his  suc- 
cess and  conquest,  and  after  having  become  old  and 
blind,  was  suffered  to  be  led  by  a  child,  and  beg  his 
daily  bread  at  the  foot  of  the  very  monuments 
his  valor  had  preserved.  Near  this  are  the  Burnt 
Column  once  surmounted  by  the  bronze  statue  of 
Apollo,  and  the  Thousand  and  One  Columns — an 
underground  cistern  built  by  Constantine,  whose 
grave  lies  neglected  in  the  most  wretched  and 
filthy  part  of  the  city. 

Galata  and  Pera  on  the  northern  peninsula 
between  the  Golden  Horn  and  the  Bosphorus  are 
those  sections  of  Constantinople  inhabited  chiefly 
by  the  Franks,  or  Europeans,  and  here  are  the 
headquarters  of  all  the  foreign  ambassadors. 

On  the  shore  of  the  Bosphorus  is  the  immense 
white  Palace  and  harem  of  the  present  sultan  who 
rejoices  in  the  possession  of  150  wives.  Every 
Friday  at  noon  the  sultan  can  be  seen  on  his  way 
to  the  mosque,  escorted  by  his  ministers,  20  gen- 
erals, a  large  staff  of  officers  in  dazzling  uniforms, 
and  5,000  troops  ;  with  a  suite  of  attendants,  state 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  293 

carriages  and  led  saddle-horses.  All  this  display 
for  one  man  to  pass  20  minutes  in  prayer  ! 

The  Dervishes,  a  religious  sect  of  the  Moham- 
medans, are  divided  into  two  orders  —  the 
Dancing,  and  the  Howling.  The  former,  wearing 
tall,  pointed  hats  and  full  skirts,  with  outstretched 
arms,  maintain  an  incessant  spinning  motion,  often 
revolving  at  the  rate  of  fifty  times  a  minute  until 
the  mind  becomes  so  disassociated  from  the  body, 
that  they  enter  into  a  state  of  trance.  The  Howl- 
ing Dervishes  observe  the  same  ceremonies  here, 
as  those  already  described  in  Cairo,  with  the  ad- 
dition of  walking  over  the  prostrate  bodies  of 
persons  of  all  ranks  and  ages,  who  believe  in  this 
means  of  effecting  cures  of  the  diseases  that  afflict 
mankind. 

Scutari,  on  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Bosphorus, 
contains  a  fine  summer  palace  of  the  sultan,  with 
beautiful  grounds,  kiosks,  and  large  cages  con- 
taining fine  specimens  of  tigers,  lions  and  other 
wild  animals.  Near  by  is  the  hospital  where  Flor- 
ence Nightingale  nursed  the  sick  and  wounded 
soldiers  of  the  Crimea  :  and  the  English  cemetery 
containing  the  graves  of  25,000  victims  of  this 
war. 

In  the  Turkish  cemetery  beyond,  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  horse  which  was  ridden  by  the  mes- 
senger who  was  sent  to  announce  the  taking  of 
Constantinople  to  Mohammed  II.  in  1453,  and 
which  fell  dead  immediately  after.  The  government 


294  A   TOUR 

employs  a  Dervish  priest  to  place  a  sack  of  oats 
on  the  grave  each  night,  and  as  by  morning  it  has 
disappeared,  the  superstitious  regard  the  fact  as 
evidence  of  the  horse's  acceptance  of  the  tribute. 

On  the  north  of  the  city  is  the  Golden  Horn, 
an  arm  of  the  sea,  so-called  from  the  abundance 
of  fish  found  in  its  waters  by  the  first  settlers, 
which  yielded  them  an  immense  revenue.  One  of 
the  favorite  excursions  from  the  city  is  to  sail  up 
the  Golden  Horn,  passing  the  ruined  palace  of 
Belisarius,  to  the  Sweet  Waters  the  popular  resort 
of  the  Turkish  ladies  ;  for  this  purpose  the  caique 
is  most  in  vogue, — a  long,  narrow,  pointed  boat, 
somewhat  resembling  a  canoe,  in  the  bottom  of 
which  its  occupant  is  required  to  sit  upright,  and 
perfectly  motionless,  with  the  alternative  of  an 
impromptu  plunge  into  the  water. 

Leaving  Constantinople  we  sailed  through  the 
Bosphorus  passing  numbers  of  palaces  and 
mosques  which  border  its  shores ;  the  Castle  of 
Asia,  and  the  Castle  of  Europe,  the  latter  built  by 
Mohammed  II.,  and  from  which  he  shot  marble 
cannon  balls  when  besieging  Constantinople. 

Therapia  is  a  pretty  summer  resort  of  the 
ambassadors  and  wealthy  citizens ;  and  the  spot 
where  Medea  landed  with  Jason  on  his  return 
from  Colchis  after  the  Argonautic  expedition. 

Crossing  the  Black  Sea  we  took  a  direct  course 
to  Buda-Pesth  the  capital  of  Hungary,  situated  on 
both  banks  of  the  Danube,  with  a  population  of 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  295 

308,000.  Buda  on  the  right  bank  contains  the 
Royal  palace  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  terraced 
gardens,  with  a  stern-looking  old  castle  guarding 
the  heights  above ;  and  Pesth,  on  the  left  bank 
connected  with  Buda  by  several  bridges,  is  a 
modern-built  city,  with  wide  streets  containing 
several  statues,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  Tokay 
wines  and  immense  flour  mills. 

From  here  we  took  steamer  on  the  Danube — 
a  twelve  hours'  sail  to  Vienna,  passing  en  route 
Presburg,  Komorn,  Gran,  and  other  points  of  in- 
terest, but  being  wide  and  muddy,  with  low  banks, 
the  river  does  not  compare  here  in  point  of 
scenery  with  that  already  described. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

CARLSBAD:  HOMBURG:  WIESBADEN:   EMS:   BOULOGNE: 
AGINCOURT  AND  CRESSY:  ST.  OMER:  AMIENS:  DIEPPE. 

HAVING  by  this  time  traversed  the  length  and 
breadth  of  Europe,  with  the  most  interesting  por- 
tions of  Morocco,  Algeria,  Egypt,  Syria,  and 
Turkey,  and  deeming  it  inadvisable  during  the 
summer  months  to  continue  our  travels  through 
the  Red  Sea  and  under  the  Equator,  we  concluded 
to  while  away  the  intermediate  time  visiting  the 


296  A   TOUR 

most  noted  and  frequented  watering-places  of 
Europe. 

Carlsbad — or  Charles  bath — has  a  permanent 
population  of  8,000,  and  is  located  in  a  ravine  in 
the  mountains  of  Bohemia. 

During  the  season, — from  April  to  October, 
there  are  often  as  many  as  40,000  visitors  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  who  come,  not  as  votaries  to 
the  altars  of  Fashion,  but  as  worshippers  at  the 
shrine  of  Hygeia. 

The  mountains  and  hills  environing  Carlsbad 
are  intersected  by  beautiful  and  romantic  walks, 
where  invalids  seek  in  healthful  exercise  an  ef- 
ficient adjunct  to  the  medicinal  effects  of  the 
waters.  Owing  to  the  oppressive  atmosphere  of 
the  valley,  visitors,  as  a  rule,  seek  the  cool  shelter 
of  the  many  pretty  villas  which  dot  the  hill  slopes 
surrounding  it.  The  Springs,  9  in  number,  lo- 
cated along  a  stream  in  the  bottom  of  the  ra- 
vine, take  their  name  from  the  Emperor  Charles 
IV.  who  discovered  them  while  hunting,  his  dog 
chancing  to  fall  into  one,  and  emerging  scalded 
by  the  natural  heat  of  the  water:  the  Emperor, 
afterwards  returning  here,  was  benefited  by  the 
baths  which  he  took  for  wounds  received  in 
battle. 

The  principal  of  these  Springs  are  the  Miihl- 
brun,  and  the  Sprudel,  whose  waters  are  165  de- 
grees Fahrenheit,  and  contain  sulphate,  carbonate 
of  soda,  lime  and  potash,  considered  highly  bene- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  297 

ficial  for  rheumatism,  liver,  and  kidney  diseases. 
Every  morning  from  six  to  eight,  while  the  band 
plays,  crowds  of  visitors  may  be  seen  strolling 
towards  the  springs  carrying  their  small  glasses, 
and  taking  their  places  in  line,  to  await  their  turn 
to  be  served  from  the  medicinal  waters. 

Homburg,  one  of  the  most  famous  watering 
places  of  Germany,  is  15  miles  from  Frankfort, 
and  is  situated  on  a  commanding  elevation. 

The  Kursaal  is  decidedly  the  handsomest 
building  of  its  kind  in  the  Empire ;  its  theatre, 
concert,  and  ball-rooms,  together  with  the  exten- 
sive grounds  and  promenades  surrounding  it, 
combine  to  render  it  a  delightful  place  of  resort. 
The  springs,  four  in  number,  are  beneficial  for 
rheumatism  and  skin  diseases;  while  the  large 
park  in  which  they  are  situated,  laid  out  in  flower- 
bordered  walks,  and  the  conservatories  filled  with 
orange-trees  and  other  tropical  plants,  add  much 
to  the  attractions  of  the  place. 

Wiesbaden,  with  a  population  of  50,000  is  the 
capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Nassau  in  Prussia, 
and  the  residence  of  the  Grand  Duke ;  it  is 
beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  gardens,  or- 
chards, and  handsome  villas. 

The  springs,  numbering  30,  which  are  alkaline, 
and  of  a  high  temperature,  were  known  to  the 
Romans ;  and  are  frequented  during  the  season, 
by  at  least  30,000  people.  Its  Kursaal  which  is 
devoted  to  reading-rooms,  restaurant,  and  formerly 


298  A    TOUR 

to  gambling -halls,  is  in  the  midst  of  a  park  con- 
taining a  beautiful  little  lake  on  the  margin  of 
which  are  tables  and  chairs  where  visitors  retire 
after  dinner  to  sip  their  coffee,  while  listening  to  a 
fine  band  of  music. 

Ems,  another  fashionable  place  of  resort  much 
frequented  by  Germans  and  Russians,  is  situated 
on  both  banks  of  the  river  Lahn,  in  a  long  narrow 
valley  shut  in  on  both  sides  by  steep  wooded 
hills,  and  has  a  population  of  6,000.  It  has  a  fine 
Kursaal  and  a  covered  colonnade  for  promenading 
in  inclement  weather  besides  many  shaded  walks. 
It  was  here  the  Emperor  —  then  King  William  — 
gave  Benedetti  his  final  answer  —  July,  1870  — 
which  led  to  the  Franco-Prussian  war. 

Boulogne  derives  its  importance  from  its  prox- 
imity to  the  shores  of  England,  and  is  a  fashion- 
able watering-place  much  frequented  by  English 
visitors  for  its  surf  bathing.  On  one  side  of  the 
harbor  is  the  circular  basin  excavated  by  Napoleon 
to  contain  the  flat-bottomed  boats  intended  to 
convey  his  army  of  invasion  to  England. 

Not  far  from  Boulogne  are  the  celebrated 
battle-fields  of  Agincourt  and  Cressy ;  in  connec- 
tion with  the  latter  of  which  is  noted  the  incident 
of  the  brave  blind  king  of  Bohemia  anxious  to 
participate  in  the  battle,  insisting  upon  being  led 
by  two  knights  into  the  thickest  of  the  fight, 
where  he  fell  covered  with  wounds.  His  standard 
was  presented  to  the  Black  Prince  after  the  Eng- 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  299 

lish  victory,  who  adopted  for  his  own,  the  crest  it 
bore, — three  ostrich  plumes  with  the  motto  Ich 
Dzen, —  I  serve, —  which  has  been  borne  ever 
since  by  the  successive  Princes  of  Wales. 

The  town  of  St.  Omer,  one  of  the  oldest  in 
France,  is  situated  in  this  vicinity.  It  contains 
the  ruins  of  a  monastery,  whose  founder,  Omer, 
assuming  the  cowl  at  the  death  of  his  wife,  de- 
voted his  large  possessions  to  this  purpose ;  for 
which  deed  he  was  afterwards  canonized.  His 
descendant  Geoffrey  de  St.  Omer  was  one  of  the 
founders  of  the  order  of  Knights  Templar  in  the 
time  of  the  Crusades. 

Amiens,  on  the  Somme,  has  in  its  Cathedral  a 
head  which  the  inhabitants  claim  as  that  of  John 
the  Baptist. 

Dieppe  is  another  popular  bathing  resort  par- 
ticularly frequented  by  the  French  people,  and  is 
situated  on  the  coast  of  Normandy  in  northern 
France. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

PARIS  :    BRINDISI  :     PORT  SAID  :    SUEZ  CANAL  :    RED  SEA  : 
ADEN  I    INDIAN  OCEAN  :    COLOMBO  :    KANDY. 

AFTER  equipping  ourselves  in  Paris  with  medi- 
cines, clothing,  and  other  requirements  necessary 
for  travel  through  hot,  unhealthy,  and  dangerous 


300  A   TOUR 

countries,  we  took  rail  direct  for  Brindisi,  and 
from  there,  steamer  for  Port  Said  at  the  head  of 
the  Suez  Canal. 

The  Suez  Canal  from  Port  Said  to  Suez,  a 
distance  of  100  miles,  is  a  water  highway  extend- 
ing through  a  number  of  lakes  and  ancient 
canals, —  and  connects  the  waters  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean with  those  of  the  Red  Sea.  The  project 
of  constructing  this  canal  was  entertained  by  both 
Napoleon  I.  and  Mohammed  Ali ;  but  it  was  re- 
served for  Vicomte  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  of 
France  to  bring  it  to  a  successful  issue.  He  first 
conceived  the  idea  while  in  quarantine  at  Alex- 
andria, in  1831  ;  in  1859  a  company  was  formed  of 
21,000  Frenchmen,  inaugurated  by  Prince  Jer- 
ome, who  took  shares  when  the  entire  capital 
of  200,000,000  francs,  $40,000,000,  was  sub- 
scribed;  and  in  1869,  the  work  being  completed, 
the  canal  was  opened  with  great  festivities  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Empress  Eugenie,  the  Em- 
peror of  Austria,  the  Crown  Prince  of  Prussia, 
and  other  guests  of  the  Khedive. 

The  Canal  is  26  feet  deep,  and  72  feet  wide, 
and  while  being  navigable  for  the  largest  steamers 
and  iron-clads,  sidings  are  necessary  to  enable 
them  to  pass  one  another.  This  route  has  short- 
ened the  trip  from  London  to  Bombay  by  5,000 
miles,  or  24  days,  and  proves  such  a  benefit 
to  the  English  especially, —  as  two-thirds  of  the 
vessels  passing  through  it  carry  the  English  flag  — 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  301 

that  in  1875  she  secured,  out  of  the  400,000 
shares,  176,602  shares  of  the  stock.  The  canal 
alternately  passes  through  miles  of  sandy  desert, 
and  large,  bitter,  and  salt  lakes ;  while  the  great, 
ungainly  dredging  machines  are  kept  constantly 
at  work  clearing  the  channel,  on  which  the  im- 
mense naval  vessels  of  the  English  government 
are  frequently  seen  going  to  or  from  India.  The 
rate  of  speed  allowed  steamers  on  this  canal,  is  six 
miles  an  hour,  and  even  this  washes  away  the 
banks  considerably,  and  fills  up  the  channel. 

The  principal  towns  passed  are  Daphne  the 
Tahpannes  of  the  Bible,  and  Kantara,  formerly 
called  Meses.  This  town,  one  of  the  most  ancient 
in  the  world,  is  the  spot  where  the  Asian  tribes 
entered  to  settle  Egypt,  and  was  the  birthplace  of 
Horus — the  oldest  of  the  Egyptian  deities  —  like 
the  Greek  Apollo,  typical  of  the  Sun.  Further  on 
is  Ismailia,  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Timsah,  now  a 
healthy  and  thriving  town  of  3,000  inhabitants, 
on  a  spot  where  a  few  years  ago  no  living  thing 
could  exist. 

Suez,  with  a  population  of  13,000,  is  on  the 
gulf  of  the  same  name  near  the  Red  Sea.  It  owes 
its  importance  to  its  being  a  station  on  the  route 
of  pilgrimages  to  Mecca  ;  and  also  for  vessels  ply- 
ing between  European  ports  and  India.  Four 
miles  below  the  town  on  the  African  shore  are  the 
mountains  Gebel  Attakah,  or  Mountains  of  De- 
liverance—  at  which  point  tradition  locates  the 


302  A    TOUR 

spot  where  Moses  crossed  the  Red  Sea  with  the 
Children  of  Israel.  Our  guide  at  this  place  who 
spoke  with  the  assurance  of  a  contemporary  in- 
formed us  it  was  not  Pharaoh,  but  a  horde  of 
Bedouin  Arabs  —  who  then,  as  to-day,  lived  by 
attacking  travellers  on  the  desert  —  that  followed 
the  Israelites  for  the  purpose  of  plunder :  Moses 
being  acquainted  with  the  rapid  rise  and  fall  of  the 
water,  selected  a  favorable  time  to  effect  a  cross- 
ing, while  the  Bedouins,  ignorant  of  such  matters, 
were  in  their  wake  when  the  returning  tide  over- 
took them  and  they  were  drowned.  As  a  proof 
of  his  assertion  the  guide  contended  that  had  the 
pursuing  party  been  Pharaoh's  host,  his  chariots 
would  undoubtedly  have  been  found  afterwards. 
However  much  our  guide's  account  may  differ 
from  Biblical  records,  the  fact  is  incontestable  that 
Napoleon  once  narrowly  escaped  sharing  the  same 
fate  as  that  of  the  pursuers  of  the  Israelites. 

On  the  Asiatic  coast  further  south,  on  the  Red 
Sea  we  saw  the  Wells  of  Moses,  dug  by  the  Chil- 
dren of  Israel  after  reaching  the  shore  in  safety; 
and  further  on  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  peninsula, 
is  Mount  Sinai  where  it  is  said  Moses  received 
from  God  the  Ten  Commandments.  The  intense 
heat  of  the  Red  Sea,  swept  by  the  hot  desert 
winds  of  either  shore,  now  began  to  make  itself 
felt,  and  our  steamer  keeping  in  view  the  coast  of 
Hedjaz  Jemen  in  Arabia,  we  passed  Jeddah,  the 
sea-port  for  Mecca  and  Medina.  This  latter  city, 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  303 

only  second  in  the  veneration  of  the  Mohamme- 
dans, contains  the  remains  of  the  Prophet  in  a 
silver  coffin  beneath  a  marble  slab,  over  which  .a 
fine  mosque  is  erected.  It  was  hither  the  Prophet 
fled  from  Mecca,  a  distance  of  240  miles,  when 
the  skeptical,  deaf  to  his  teachings,  rose  up  against 
him,  and  from  this  flight,  or  Hegira,  dates  the 
Mohammedan  era.  Mecca,  the  birthplace  of  Mo- 
hammed, and  the  Rome  of  Islam,  is  65  miles  from 
Jeddah.  Its  natural  position  hemmed  in  by  hills,  its 
passes  guarded  by  Arab  sentinels,  and  the  fanati- 
cism of  its  inhabitants,  render  it  almost  impossi- 
ble of  access  to  Christians. 

Mr.  Keane,  an  Englishman,  led  by  a  spirit 
of  adventure,  accomplished  the  perilous  feat  of  ef- 
fecting an  entrance,  disguised  as  a  Mussulman,  into 
this  city :  but  being  detected,  he  was  stoned  in 
the  streets  and  escaped  by  almost  a  miracle. 

The  following  account  may  prove  interesting 
to  those  who,  like  ourselves,  have  been  debarred 
the  privilege  of  entering  the  sacred  precincts. 

"  Mecca,"  says  Mr.  Keane,  "  is  a  walled  city, 
situated  in  a  narrow,  sandy  valley,  inclosed  by 
rocky  eminences  from  200  to  500  feet  high.  The 
valley  is  scarcely  600  yards  broad,  narrowing 
southward  to  about  300  where  it  is  almost  blocked 
by  the  Beit-Ullah  —  God's  House  —  the  great 
mosque  enshrining  the  famous  Kaaba.  The  entire 
building  forms  a  rectangle  250  yards  long  by  200 
broad,  the  north  side  of  which  is  formed  by  four 


304  A    TOUR 

rows  of  pillars,  the  other  three,  of  three  rows  each, 
arched  over,  and  so  disposed,  that  each  group  of 
four  supports  a  small  cupola,  making  in  all  152  of 
these  structures  along  its  four  sides.  The  oldest 
pillars  are  hewn  out  of  the  neighboring  rocks  ;  the 
others  consisting  of  marble,  granite,  and  porphyry, 
are  mostly  offerings  of  the  faithful,  and  include 
some  from  the  most  ancient  temples  of  Syria  and 
Egypt.  Within  the  mosque  is  the  Kaaba,  a  small, 
massive  building  about  40  feet  in  height.  Tradition 
associates  this  unpretending  and  curious  little 
structure  with  a  multitude  of  marvels  and  legends. 
On  the  north  side  is  a  door- way  leading  over  steps 
inlaid  with  gold  and  silver,  to  the  inner  sanctuary, 
in  one  corner  of  which  lies  the  famous  Black 
Stone  which  they  claim  was  a  gift  from  God  to 
Abraham,  but  which  is  evidently  a  meteoric  for- 
mation descended,  if  not  from  heaven,  at  least 
from  the  interplanetary  space.  To  the  west  of  the 
Kaaba  is  the  Golden  Channel  carrying  off  from 
the  flat  roof  the  rain-water  which  is  reputed  to  be 
endowed  with  miraculous  properties." 

Continuing  through  the  Red  Sea  we  passed 
Mocha  noted  for  its  finely-flavored  coffee,  and 
Aden,  located  on  a  rocky,  volcanic  soil,  serving 
England  as  a  coaling  station,  and  as  a  guard  to 
the  Red  Sea.  In  our  sail  through  the  Arabian 
Sea  and  Indian  Ocean,  the  Southern  Cross,  seen 
only  in  these  latitudes,  shone  brightly  in  the 
heavens  above  us  by  night,  and  nearing  India  we 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  305 

passed  the  Maldive  Islands,  which  are  coral 
reefs  —  formed  by  the  labor  of  millions  of  in- 
sects—  with  small  lakes  in  their  midst,  fringed  by 
rows  of  palm-trees. 

On  approaching  the  island  of  Ceylon,  our  at- 
tention was  first  attracted  to  the  peculiar  boat 
used  by  the  natives.  It  is  about  20  feet  long,  20 
inches  wide,  and  3  feet  deep,  with  a  balance  log 
the  same  length  of  the  boat,  10  to  20  feet  off  one 
side,  and  attached  to  it  by  bamboo  poles  ;  this 
out-rigger,  as  it  is  called,  is  always  kept  to  wind- 
ward, and  when  a  breeze  springs  up,  one,  two,  or 
three  men,  will  sit  on  it  in  order  to  balance  the 
boat,  and  in  speaking  of  a  storm  they  call  it  a  one, 
two,  or  three  man  breeze  according  to  the  number 
of  men  on  the  outrigger ;  these  boats  sail  at  the 
rate  of  10  miles  an  hour,  and  venture  20  miles  out 
to  sea  in  the  severest  storm. 

Ceylon  is  a  pear-shaped  island  at  the  extreme 
south  of  India  and  has  a  population  of  2,500,000. 
Its  government  is  entirely  separate  from  that  of 
India,  and  the  governor  is  appointed  by  the 
British  Crown.  It  is  almost  connected  with  India 
by  a  rocky  reef  called  Adam's  Bridge,  so  named 
from  the  Mohammedan  legend  that  on  his  expul- 
sion from  the  Garden  of  Eden  Adam  passed  over 
this  singular  causeway  into  Ceylon.  By  the 
Brahmans  the  Island  is  called  the  Resplendent ; 
by  the  Buddhists,  a  Pearl  upon  the  brow  of  India; 
by  the  Chinese,  the  Island  of  Jewels,  and  by  the 


306  A   TOUR 

Greeks,  the  Land  of  the  Hyacinth  and  the  Ruby.  It 
was  to  Ceylon  the  ships  of  Solomon  came  for  gold, 
silver,  ivory,  apes,  and  peacocks ;  and  Fable  has 
also  contributed  to  its  fame  by  locating  it  as  the 
place  where  Sindbad  of  the  Arabian  Nights  was 
wrecked. 

Near  a  marine  mountain  of  lodestone  his  ship 
fell  asunder,  and  the  nails  and  every  iron  thing 
about  it  flew  to  the  lodestone :  even  to  this  day, 
native  boats  are  constructed  without  the  use  of 
iron. 

The  island  is  filled  with  the  richest  and  rank- 
est of  tropical  growth ;  wild  elephants  and  other 
large  animals  abound,  and  the  spices,  ivory,  and 
precious  stones  —  such  as  cat's-eye,  sapphires, 
pearls,  and  rubies  found  here  are  world-re- 
nowned. 

Ceylon,  though  the  stronghold  of  Buddhism, 
contains  many  followers  of  the  Christian,  Mo- 
hammedan, and  Hindu  faiths,  while  Polyandry, 
which  allows- of  a  plurality  of  husbands,  is  largely 
practised  here. 

Colombo,  which  was  named  by  the  Portu- 
guese after  Columbus,  has  a  population  of  98,000. 
It  extends  about  4  miles  along  the  coast  and  is 
divided  into  the  European  quarter,  and  the  black, 
or  native,  town.  Here  one  sees  the  Singhalese 
chiefly  as  servants  —  the  men  wearing  skirts,  and 
their  long  hair  in  a  knot  at  the  back  of  the  head 
held  by  a  high  comb,  giving  them  a  resemblance 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  307 

to  women  ;  the  Parsees  as  merchants  ;  the  Tamils 
as  laborers,  and  the  Moors  as  retail  dealers ;  while 
upon  the  Coolies,  or  lower  classes,  devolves  the 
menial  duties  :  these  latter  wear  only  a  cloth  about 
their  loins,  and  oil  their  bodies  until  they  shine 
like  polished  ebony. 

The  natives  as  a  rule  are  clean  in  their  personal 
habits,  but  their  mouths  are  invariably  discolored 
from  betel  chewing.  This  consists  of  a  compound 
of  the  leaves  of  the  betel,  some  lime,  and  the  sliced 
nuts  of  the  Areca  palm,  which  quenches  thirst 
without  being  intoxicating  in  its  effects,  while  it 
possesses  strong  tonic  properties.  This  mixture,  on 
being  chewed,  imparts  a  blood-like  hue  to  the 
mouth,  and  has  been  used  by  the  natives,  both 
here  and  in  India  from  time  immemorial. 

There  are  palms  in  great  variety  around  Col- 
ombo, but  the  cocoanut  is  the  most  plentiful,  and 
yields  many  of  the  necessities  of  life :  its  fruit 
furnishes  food  ;  its  shell  drinking- vessels  ;  its  milk 
palm  wine  and  sugar;  its  stems  material  for 
building,  and  its  leaves,  roofs,  matting,  baskets, 
and  paper. 

We  drove  through  the  European  quarter,  and 
along  the  beach,  seeing  nothing  particularly  no- 
ticeable beyond  the  cinnamon  gardens,  which  are 
cultivated  for  the  bark  of  this  shrub. 

In  the  native  quarter  we  visited  a  Buddhist 
temple  in  which  is  a  gilded,  recumbent  figure  of 
Buddha,  measuring  80  feet  in  length,  with  angels 


308  A   TOUR 

with  drawn  swords,  keeping  watch  over  him.  A 
poetic  feature  of  the  Buddhist  religion  is  the 
floral  sacrifice,  and  in  this  temple  we  first  saw, 
among  a  great  variety  of  lovely  flowers  offered  at 
the  shrine  of  Buddha,  the  sacred  lotus. 

Driving  3  miles  out  of  town,  through  the 
rankest  of  tropical  vegetation,  we  called  on  Arabi 
Pasha,  who  was  exiled  here  after  the  battle  of  Tel- 
el-Kebir  in  Egypt,  and  is  now  a  State  prisoner  of 
the  English.  Arabi  is  a  man  of  large  frame  and 
mild  countenance,  speaking  some  French,  and  but 
a  little  English.  He  received  us  with  native  grace 
and  hospitality,  offering  us  refreshments  and 
tobacco,  and  rendering  our  visit  an  altogether 
pleasant  one. 

From  Colombo  we  took  the  rail  75  miles  to 
Kandy  —  the  ancient  capital  of  Ceylon  —  situated 
in  the  interior  of  the  island.  The  entire  route  af- 
forded a  varied  and  grand  panorama,  winding 
through  vales  and  among  hills,  combining  Alpine 
grandeur  with  tropical  luxuriance. 

Kandy  though  only  a  small  village  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  shores  of  a  miniature  artifi- 
cial lake.  It  has  lovely  walks  and  drives,  and 
handsome  villas  dot  the  hill-sides  which  environ 
the  lake :  on  the  margin  of  which  is  the  palace  of 
the  late  king  of  Ceylon  and  a  fine  Buddhist  tem- 
ple enshrining  a  tooth  of  Buddha,  an  object  of 
great  veneration,  and  exposed  to  the  view  of  wor- 
shippers only  on  rare  occasions. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  309 

Near  Kandy  we  visited  large  plantations  of  tea 
and  coffee,  and  saw  growing  the  clove-tree  from 
whose  flower-bud  the  spice  is  named ;  the 
nutmeg,  the  outer  covering  of  which  is  the 
mace :  also  the  vanilla,  cocoa,  rubber,  and  ban- 
yan trees,  and  clumps  of  gigantic  bamboos. 
Here  we  saw  almost  every  variety  of  the  palm  ; 
the  Travellers'  —  one  stem  of  which,  when  cut, 
yields  a  quart  of  the  purest  drinking  water ;  the 
Palmyra,  from  the  sap  of  which  a  wine  is  pro- 
duced, and  the  Taliput,  whose  single  leaf  measures 
10x14  feet,  and  will  shelter  15  men.  It  blooms 
but  once  in  100  years,  and  has  a  flower,  which  we 
were  fortunate  enough  to  see,  measuring  twelve 
feet  in  circumference,  and  of  a  yellowish  color. 

Returning  to  Colombo,  we  took  steamer  to  the 
extreme  southern  point  of  India,  landing  at  Tu- 
ticorin. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

INDIA  :  ITS  HISTORY  :  ITS  RELIGIONS  :  BRAHMANISM  : 
BUDDHISM  :  HINDUISM  :  MOHAMMEDANISM  :  THE 
JAINS  :  THE  PARSEES  :  CASTE. 

INDIA,  the  vast  Asiatic  possession  of  Great 
Britain,  stretching  2,000  miles  from  north  to 
south,  and  nearly  as  many  from  east  to  west,  has 


310  A   TOUR 

an  area  of  1,490,000  square  miles;  and  embraces 
almost  every  variety  of  climate ;  with  high  moun- 
tains, low  marshes,  densely-populated  and  unin- 
habited regions,  immense  rivers,  and  jungles  in- 
fested by  the  most  formidable  of  wild  beasts.  Its 
chief  official  is  the  Viceroy,  who  resides  at  its  capital, 
Calcutta,  and  under  him  are  native  independent 
princes,  lieutenant-governors,  and  agents  who  pre- 
side over  states  and  districts. 

The  population  of  India  at  the  present  time 
numbers  250,000,000  of  people  of  different  re- 
ligious sects,  and  speaking  many  languages  and 
dialects.  As  this  country  is  the  mother  of  the 
oldest  religions  known,  it  will  not  be  amiss  to 
give  here  some  details  of  its  history  and  religious 
creeds,  as  derived  from  other  authors,  and  from 
our  own  observation. 

The  early  non-Aryan  races  of  India,  divided 
into  three  great  groups,  are  the  Thibeto-Birmans, 
the  Kolarians,  and  the  Dravidians. 

The  Thibeto-Birmans  occupy  the  Himalayas, 
and  include  many  mountain  tribes,  akin  in  feature 
and  in  tongue  to  the  Chinese. 

The  Kolarians,  supposed  to  have  come  in 
through  the  mountain  passes,  are  now  scattered 
in  every  direction,  their  chief  tribes  being  the 
Sontals  and  Khands. 

The  Dravidians  who  also  came  through  the 
mountain  passes,  forced  their  way  on  in  a  com- 
pact phalanx,  and  found  a  secure  resting-place  in 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  311 

the  south.  They  attained  a  high  state  of  cultiva- 
tion long  before  the  Aryan  invasion  ;  their  chief 
languages,  polished  and  cultivated,  are  the  Tel- 
ugu  —  melodious  as  Italian  :  the  Tamil  —  rich  in 
its  literature ;  the  Canarese  and  the  Malayan. 

The  Aryans  —  or  nobles  —  is  the  wide-spread 
Indo-European  race  whose  western  branch  ex- 
tends over  Greece,  Italy,  Germany,  and  England. 
They,  in  turn,  entered  India  by  the  northwest 
passes,  speaking  the  stately  Sanscrit,  driving  the 
inferior  hordes  before  them,  and  finding  a  perma- 
nent home  in  the  great  river  plains.  They  soon 
asserted  their  supremacy  over  the  earlier  people, 
as  Brahmans  and  Rajputs ;  they  established  Caste 
and  gave  to  the  East  the  two  giant  religious  sys- 
tems of  Brahmanism  and  Buddhism  ;  their  lan- 
guages were  the  Sanscrit  and  Pali  with  their 
branches  Panjabi,  Sindhi,  Hindi,  Bengali,  Mar- 
hatti  and  Singali. 

The  Greeks  invaded  India  327  B.  C.  under 
Alexander  the  Great ;  but  left  no  permanent  set- 
tlement, though  the  Greek  type  of  sculpture  long 
survived  in  Indian  art.  Scythian  influences  and  a 
Scythian  era  also  marked  the  annals  of  India  from 
57  B.  C.  downwards;  and  some  of  the  Rajput 
tribes  are  traced  back  to  them. 

The  next  wave  of  conquest  was  that  of  the 
Mohammedans,  who  entered  India  in  the  iith 
century,  and  made  successive  conquests.  They 
brought  with  them  their  native  Arabic;  and 


312  A   TOUR 

Arabic  inscriptions  adorn  the  magnificent  mos- 
ques, halls,  palaces  and  tombs,  which  they  erected 
chiefly  in  the  I7th  century. 

Brahmanism,  the  religion  of  the  Aryans  which 
found  its  earliest  exposition  in  the  hymns  of  the 
Vedas,  and  its  development  in  the  institutions  of 
Manu,  was  originally  monotheistic. 

The  Rig- Veda,  usually  placed  1400  B.  C. 
consists  of  a  series  of  hymns  addressed  to  the 
bright  friendly  gods. Divas  —  literally  the  shining 
ones,  the  great  powers  of  Nature,  the  father- 
heaven,  the  mother-earth,  the  encompassing  sky. 
Brahma,  the  creator,  has  no  separate  existence  in 
these  hymns;  Vishnu,  the  preserver,  is  but  slightly 
known  ;  and  Siva,  the  destroyer,  appears  as  Rudra 
the  god  of  tempest.  The  potent  prayer  was 
called  Brahma,  and  he  who  offered  it  was  called 
Brahman.  Already,  in  the  Vedas,  sacrifices  are 
enjoined  ;  the  man-sacrifice,  and  the  great  horse- 
sacrifice  of  600  animals  that  was  substituted  for 
it.  Thus,  by  degrees,  sprang  up  the  four  great 
Castes;  the  Brahmans,  or  priests,  sprung  from  the 
mouth  of  Brahma,  and  distinguished  by  a  sacred 
cord  about  their  bodies ;  the  Kshatriyas,  or  war- 
riors, now  called  Rajputs,  taken  from  his  arms; 
the  Vaisyas,  or  husbandmen  from  his  thighs  and 
beneath  these,  the  Sudras,  or  servile  class,  the 
slaves  of  black  descent  issued  from  his  feet. 

After  a  long  struggle  between  the  priestly 
and  warrior  castes,  the  former  prevailed  and  es- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  313 

tablished  their  supremacy  as  the  makers  of  San- 
scrit literature ;  and  the  priests  and  teachers  of 
the  people.  The  Brahman's  life  was  one  of  dis- 
cipline ;  study  occupied  his  early  years ;  then 
marriage  and  family  life ;  next  seclusion  and  de- 
votion ;  and  lastly  mendicancy,  asceticism  and 
absorption. 

Throughout  life  he  practised  strict  abstinence, 
recognizing  the  transitory  vanity  of  human  life. 
"  What  is  the  world  ?"  says  a  Brahman  sage  :  "  It 
is  even  as  the  bough  of  a  tree  on  which  a  bird 
rests  for  a  night,  and  in  the  morning  flies  away." 
Self-culture,  self-restraint,  was  the  ideal  life. 
Hence  amidst  all  the  changes  of  history  the  Brah- 
man in  India,  refined  in  feature,  tall  and  slender, 
has  calmly  ruled.  Brahmanism  in  its  growth  and 
spread  is  strikingly  illustrated  by  the  teachings  of 
Christianity  regarding  the  lapse  of  man  from  a 
pure  and  simple  faith  —  from  the  knowledge  of 
God  into  idolatry  and  superstition :  "  knowing 
God  they  glorified  him  not  as  God,  but  became 
vain  in  their  imaginations."  Brahma,  the  Crea- 
tor, became  a  mere  abstract  name ;  Vishnu,  the 
Preserver  received  10  avatars  —  or  incarnations  — 
Rama  and  Krishna  being  the  chief;  and  Siva,  the 
Destroyer  and  Reproducer,  became  the  embodi- 
ment of  wrath  and  lust.  The  most  prominent 
doctrine  of  philosophical  Brahmanism  became  the 
transmigration  of  souls ;  ending  with  absorption 
in  the  Supreme  Being. 


3  14  A    TOUR 

Buddhism,  now  the  religion  in  a  degraded 
form  of  one-third  of  the  human  race,  had  its  ori- 
gin in  India,  whence  it  has  long  been  exiled.  Its 
founder  was  Gautama  son  of  a  prince  of  the  Sak- 
yan  clan,  born  623  B.  C.  a  hundred  miles  north  of 
Benares.  After  his  student  and  married  life  he  re- 
tired when  30  years  old  to  a  cave  near  Gaya  in 
the  Patna  district,  and  this  epoch  in  his  life  is 
called  his  Great  Renunciation.  But  instead  of 
finding  peace  in  his  fasting  and  seclusion,  he 
reached  a  crisis  of  despair,  passed  through  a  con- 
flict with  the  powers  of  darkness,  and  emerged 
with  new  light  and  knowledge,  to  be  henceforth 
known  as  Buddha  the  Enlightened,  and  this  era 
that  of  the  Enlightenment. 

Now  he  began  to  live  and  preach  a  new  life  of 
love  and  kindness  among  men,  condemning  Caste, 
proclaiming  the  equality  of  men,  and  setting  be- 
fore them  Nirvana,  that  is,  cessation,  not  of  exist- 
ence, but  of  sin  and  sorrow  as  their  final  goal. 
He  began  his  public  teaching  at  the  age  of  36,  and 
for  40  years  he  labored.  His  last  words  were  : 
"  Work  out  your  own  salvation  with  diligence, 
keep  your  minds  upon  my  teaching,  all  things 
change,  but  this  changes  not.  I  desire  to  depart, 
I  desire  Nirvana,  the  eternal  rest."  The  date  of 
his  death  is  543  B.  C. 

Buddhism  was  a  missionary  religion  and  it 
spread  as  a  gospel  throughout  India.  Its  apostle 
was  Asoka,  grandson  of  Chandra  Gupta,  and  king 


AROUND   THE   WORLD.  315 

of  Maghada,  whose  edict  in  Pali  inscriptions  indi- 
cate the  humanity  and  kindness  of  the  teachings 
which  the  system  promulgated. 

The  son  of  Asoka  became  a  Buddhist  mission- 
ary to  Ceylon,  and  the  systems  spread  as  the 
Topes  and  Caves  of  early  Buddhism  indicate.  But 
it  borrowed  much  from  Brahmanism :  namely,  the 
doctrine  of  transmigration,  the  practice  of  ascet- 
icism, and  the  recognition  of  a  priestly  order. 
Relics  of  Buddha  were  cherished  and  adored  and 
shrines  built  over  them  ;  images  of  the  Saint  him- 
self were  multiplied,  and  became  objects  of  wor- 
ship. 

But  in  process  of  time  Brahmanism  triumphed 
over  its  rival.  Buddhism  lacked  a  personal  god, 
it  was  a  form  of  atheism ;  it  failed  to  recognize  the 
doctrine  of  the  expiation  of  human  sin  by  sacri- 
fice ;  and  here  the  Brahmans  had  the  advantage, 
and  in  time  regained  their  influence  and  their  su- 
premacy. By  the  loth  century  of  the  Christian 
era,  Buddhism  was  in  India  an  exiled  religion, 
rinding  its  home  in  Thibet  and  Ceylon,  in  China, 
and  in  Burmah.  It  has  since  degenerated  into  an 
elaborate  ritualism  akin  to  Romanism,  with  the 
image  of  Buddha  in  place  of  the  crucifix;  the  god- 
dess of  Mercy  for  the  Virgin;  a  shaven,  robed  and 
celibate  priesthood;  altar  and  lights;  rosary  and 
penance;  monks  and  nuns;  purgatory  and  hell, 
and  in  Thibet  a  pope. 

Hinduism  is  the  modern  development  in  India, 


316  A   TOUR 

of  the  religion  of  the  Brahmans,  modified  by 
Buddhist  teachings ;  and  here  again  we  find  only 
degeneracy  from  the  primitive  standards.  The 
Brahmans  or  priests  themselves  have  in  many 
places  degenerated,  and  are  self-indulgent,  gross, 
immoral,  worldly-minded  men.  Caste  with  all  its 
tyranny  prevails.  Women  are  immured  in  igno- 
rance, and  doomed  to  slavery :  married  in  child- 
hood —  as  early  as  the  age  of  ten  —  if  the  child- 
husband  dies  she  is  a  widow  for  life,  doomed  to 
drudgery  and  neglect.  The  temples  are  adorned 
with  revolting  and  obscene  sculptures  and  frescoes, 
the  images  of  idolatry  are  hideous,  and  the  objects 
of  adoration  countless. 

Vishnuism,  or  the  worship  of  Vishnu  and  his 
many  incarnations,  and  Sivaism  —  or  the  worship 
of  Siva,  form  in  the  present  day,  the  very  heart 
and  soul  of  Hinduism.  The  old  idolatry  of  ser- 
pents, trees,  and  stones,  borrowed  perhaps  from 
the  non-Aryan  tribes  has  been  adopted  into  the 
system,  and  the  Linga  bedaubed  with  oil  and  red 
ochre  is  the  popular  idol. 

The  Puranas  are  the  writings  that  form  the 
basis  of  modern  Hinduism,  and  they  disclose 
Phallic  worship  in  all  its  loathsomeness. 

The  chief  daily  ceremony  in  all  temples,  after 
washing  and  decorating  the  idol,  and  burning 
lights  and  incense  before  it,  consists  in  offering  it 
food  —  rice,  sweetmeats,  flowers,  and  grain.  The 
smallest  village  has  its  own  peculiar  symbols  of 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  317 

worship,  which  are  often  merely  rough  blocks  of 
stone. 

Mohammedanism  first  appeared  in  India  about 
the  nth  century,  and  gained  a  permanent  foot- 
ing by  the  conquest  of  the  Moslems.  In  the  i/th 
century  its  sway  was  universal  in  north  India.  It 
proclaimed  the  doctrine :  "  there  is  but  one  God 
and  Mohammed  is  His  Prophet;"  and  it  built  its 
giant  mosques  in  the  great  cities,  and  made  many 
converts.  The  Mohammedan  population  to-day 
numbers  45,000,000. 

The  Jains,  a  small,  but  very  ancient  sect,  are 
akin  to  the  Buddhists,  but  have  an  independent 
origin.  They  are  a  very  wealthy  community  dis- 
tinguished by  the  beauty  and  costliness  of  their 
temples,  and  the  multiplicity  of  their  hospitals, 
especially  those  for  diseased  and  decrepit  animals. 
They  lay  great  stress  upon  the  doctrine  of  the 
transmigration  of  souls,  and  actually  strain  the 
water  which  they  would  drink,  brush  the  seat  upon 
which  they  would  sit,  or  the  path  upon  which  they 
would  walk  lest  they  should  unwittingly  crush  an 
insect.  Their  distinctive  feature  is  saint  worship, 
and  their  most  important  holy  place  of  pilgrimage 
is  Mount  Abu. 

The  Parsees  are  of  Persian  origin  and  are 
settled  chiefly  in  Bombay  where  they  have  be- 
come wealthy  and  prosperous.  They  hold  the 
tenets  of  Zoroaster,  and  worship  the  four  elements, 
fire,  air,  earth  and  water.  The  Supreme  Being 


318  A   TOUR 

called  Ormuzd  is,  with  them,  not  self-existing  but 
derived.  Their  scriptures  are  the  Zend-Avesta, 
which  contains  the  doctrines  of  Zoroaster. 

The  religious  and  social  system  of  India,  is 
everywhere  based  on  the  institution  of  Caste 
which  was  originally  introduced,  as  before  men- 
tioned, to  uphold  the  political  supremacy  of  the 
fair  Aryan  intruders  over  the  dark  aborigines ; 
but  before  its  introduction  a  considerable  inter- 
mixture had  already  taken  place  except  perhaps 
among  the  very  highest  classes  of  the  Aryan  con- 
querors. The  indigenous  elements  being  by  far 
the  most  numerous,  the  Aryans  were  thus  threat- 
ened with  ultimate  absorption ;  and  in  fact  had 
become  in  many  places  largely  assimilated  with 
the  native.  They  could  be  saved  from  extinction 
only  by  checking  further  alliances ;  marriage  with 
the  dark  races  was  accordingly  forbidden,  and  a 
definite  grade  assigned  to  each  shade  of  color 
which  had  already  been  developed.  Hence  Caste, 
originally  meant  color,  and  had  therefore  an  eth- 
nical value.  But  once  established,  the  institution 
gradually  acquired  an  indefinite  development,  and 
the  four  original  castes,  already  mentioned,  have 
in  the  course  of  ages  expanded  into  minute  sub- 
divisions almost  innumerable. 

The  last  census  returns  give  2,500  main  di- 
visions ;  and  in  Madras  alone,  nearly  4,000  minor 
distinctions.  The  consequence  is,  that  every 
child  is  born  in  a  caste,  and  must  follow  the  oc- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  319 

cupation  of  its  father,  neither  rising  above  nor  fall- 
ing below  it,  hence  in  the  domestic  provinces,  it  re- 
quires a  dozen  men  to  accomplish  the  work  of  one 
ordinary  servant ;  the  punker-boy  can  do  nothing 
else  but  pull  the  punker  —  or  swinging  fan, 
which  is  an  invariable  feature  of  Indian  life  ;  the 
man  who  makes  the  fire  cannot  remove  the  ashes, 
or  the  one  who  makes  the  bed,  sweep  the  room  ; 
while  the  Brahman  feels  himself  defiled  if  he 
comes  in  contact  with  the  Sudra,  and  immediately 
seeks  through  prayer  to  rid  himself  of  the  pollu- 
tion. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

TUTICORIN  :       MADURA  :      TRICHINOPOLY  :      SERINGHAM  : 
TANJORE  :    CHILLAMBARAM  :    MADRAS. 

TRAVEL  in  India  is  for  the  most  part  attended  by 
discomforts  ;  the  government  bungalow  —  or 
rest-house  —  is  often  only  a  place  of  shelter,  and 
the  hotels  are  little  better,  even  in  the  largest 
cities,  and  one  is  compelled  to  provide  himself 
not  only  with  a  servant,  but  with  bedding,  and 
often  with  provisions.  The  railroad  officials  are 
mostly  natives ;  and  one  may  travel  for  days  on 
some  of  the  lines  without  seeing  a  white  face. 
The  first-class  cars  are  but  few,  and  in  them  are 
separate  compartments  for  men  and  women. 


320  A   TOUR 

To  resume  the  course  of  our  travels :  after 
landing  at  Tuticorin  —  a  wretched,  dirty  town  in 
the  extreme  south  of  India  —  celebrated  only  for 
its  pearl-fisheries,  we  took  rail  to  traverse  the 
country  in  its  entire  length  and  breadth. 

At  Madura  we  first  saw  the  masterpieces  of 
Dravidian  architecture  for  which  the  Madras 
presidency  is  famous ;  and  which,  in  their  num- 
ber, their  extent,  and  the  elaborateness  of  their 
workmanship  astonish  and  almost  bewilder  the 
beholder.  The  Dravidians  offered  their  labor  to 
their  gods,  and  reared  immense  temples  to  their 
worship. 

These  temples,  though  differing  in  size  and 
magnificence,  are  similar  in  their  component 
parts.  The  most  conspicuous  feature  from  the 
exterior  are  the  Gopuras  or  pyramidal  gate- ways, 
towering  from  150  to  300  feet  high;  elaborately 
carved  with  grotesque  figures  in  stone  of  their 
gods,  which  are  from  6  to  10  feet  each  in  height, 
painted  in  every  color  imaginable,  and  in  various 
attitudes ;  some  having  as  many  as  20  heads  and 
arms.  These  figures  are  symbolical  of  the  gods 
they  represent;  rising  one  above  the  other  in 
diminishing  tiers,  some  ten  to  fifteen,  over  the 
arched  gateway ;  the  summit  crowned  by  an  im- 
mense head  with  open  mouth,  great  teeth  and 
eyes,  grinning  down  upon  the  inferior  gods  with 
Satanic  mien. 

The   Vimana,    or    adytum,  is   a   square,    sur- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  321 

mounted  by  a  pyramidal  roof  overlaid  with  gold ; 
here  in  a  dark  cubical  cell,  the  idol  with  its  altar 
is  immured,  and  a  lamp  is  kept  dimly  burning 
night  and  day.  Around  the  Vimana,  and  leading 
up  to  it,  usually  from  the  four  points  of  the  com- 
pass, are  the  Mantapas,  or  huge  stone  porches, 
richly  carved :  besides  these,  are  the  Hall  of  a 
Thousand  Pillars,  all  of  which  are  of  elaborately 
carved  stone  from  10  to  40  feet  high,  supporting 
a  flat  roof;  and  the  Sacred  Tank  surrounded  with 
corridors,  and  with  flights  of  steps  leading  down 
into  the  water.  All  these  gates,  halls,  courts,  and 
shrine,  centred  around,  and  leading  to  the  ady- 
tum, form  the  monster  temples  of  South  India 
covering  from  30  to  40  acres,  and  called  Pago- 
das. 

The  pagoda  —  or'  temple  of  Siva  in  Madura, 
to  which  the  above  general  description  applies, 
covers  20  acres,  and  though  not  the  largest,  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  and  best  preserved  in  In- 
dia. It  dates  from  the  3d  century  B.  C.  and  is 
dedicated  jointly  to  Menakshi,  the  fish-eyed  god- 
dess and  to  Siva. 

Entering  the  Temple  we  passed  through  a 
succession  of  9  gopuras,  and  along  corridors 
used  for  bazaars,  where  the  principal  articles  sold 
were  paints  and  oil,  essentials  of  their  religious 
rites,  and  entered  the  hall  of  a  Thousand  Pillars, 
one  of  which  is  subdivided  into  24  smaller  ones, 
and  all  are  elaborately  carved  in  stone ;  one  of 


322  A   TOUR 

these  pillars  represents  the  Devil  holding  a  woman 
by  the  hand  in  the  act  of  leading  her  into  tempta- 
tion ;  and  boys  are  taught,  as  a  religious  duty  to 
spit  in  his  face.  In  one  of  the  courts  was  the 
sacred  tank  filled  with  dirty  water  in  which  the 
worshippers  were  busily  engaged  cleansing  them- 
selves from  their  sins;  and  continuing  on  we  passed 
through  halls  and  apartments  whare  the  columns 
represented  men  on  horseback  hewn  out  of  the 
solid  blocks  of  granite.  In  this  temple  there  are 
three  different  statues  of  the  Bull  sacred  to  Siva, 
besides  many  other  idols,  and  all  are  covered  with 
oil  and  besmeared  with  red  ochre  which  impreg- 
nates the  atmosphere  with  a  disagreeable  odor. 
In  the  centre  of  the  main  hall  of  worship  was  an 
immense  live  elephant  painted  in  many  colors  and 
used  in  their  religious  processions  in  transporting 
the  idol. 

It  chanced  to  be  a  fete  day  when  we  visited 
the  temple,  and  we  found  it  crowded  with  the 
natives.  The  men,  nude  except  for  the  loin  cloth, 
bore  on  their  foreheads  in  painted  characters  token 
of  their  caste,  and  of  the  special  idols  of  their 
worship :  while  the  women  profusely  decked  with 
ornaments  —  ear,  nose,  finger,  and  toe-rings, 
bracelets  and  anklets,  necklaces  and  diadems  of 
glass  and  tinsel  —  had  their  faces  and  bodies  en- 
tirely besmeared  with  yellow  paint. 

A  prominent  building  in  Madura,  now  partly 
in  ruins,  is  the  palace  of  Tirumala,  one  of  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  323 

greatest  rulers  of  the  province,  built  by  him  in 
1623.  The  Throne-room  or  Hall  of  Audience  is 
of  a  peculiar  style  of  architecture,  the  ceiling  con- 
sisting of  several  domes  supported  by  massive 
pillars. 

A  lovely  drive  of  three  miles  beyond  the  city, 
shaded  with  banyan  trees  meeting  overhead,  leads 
to  the  Teppu-Kulam  —  a  large,  sacred  tank  con- 
taining in  its  centre  a  small  island  upon  which  is 
a  temple ;  once  a  year  it  is  illuminated,  and  the 
idol  placed  in  a  boat  and  rowed  on  the  waters 
with  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  their  religious 
rites. 

Continuing  by  rail  to  Trichinopoly  Junction 
where  we  passed  the  night,  we  drove  next  morn- 
ing a  distance  of  3  miles  to  Trichinopoly  Fort,  the 
main  feature  of  which  town  is  the  rock  fortress 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.  It  rises  abruptly 
500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  towers 
250  feet  over  the  town ;  while  half-way  up  the 
rock,  and  built  against  it,  is  a  temple  dedicated  to 
Siva. 

A  three  mile  drive  northward  from  Trichino- 
poly brought  us  to  the  famous  Dravidian  temples 
of  Seringham,  the  largest  in  all  India,  built  on  an 
island  formed  by  the  branches  of  the  Cavery  river. 
The  greatest  of  these  pagodas  is  seven  miles  in 
circumference ;  and  includes  many  bazaars  and 
streets  of  Brahmans'  houses,  more  resembling  a 
walled  town  than  a  temple.  In  its  centre  shrine 


324  A    TOUR 

we  saw  the  Golden  Idol  one  of  whose  glittering 
eyes,  abstracted  in  the  last  century  by  a  French 
deserter,  proved  to  be  a  diamond  of  almost  match- 
less purity :  it  was  subsequently  purchased  by 
Count  OrlofT  and  presented  by  him  to  his  royal 
mistress  Catherine.  This  gem  known  as  the 
Orloff  diamond,  now  figures  as  the  most  conspicu- 
ous ornament  in  the  imperial  sceptre  of  Russia. 

While  this  temple  differs  but  little  from  the 
general  description  already  given  of  the  Indian 
pagodas,  the  wonderful  carvings  in  its  Column 
Hall  are  worthy  of  special  notice.  Its  pillars, 
formed  from  a  single  block  of  granite,  are  sculp- 
tured into  grotesque,  gigantic  figures  of  men  in 
the  act  of  spearing  tigers,  others  mounted  on 
rearing  horses,  and  some  of  these  animals  hold  in 
the  mouth  a  loose  stone  ball  :  all  indicating  a 
wonderful  degree  of  skill. 

Here  we  happened  to  witness  a  religious  pro- 
cession entering  the  temple ;  this  comprised  first, 
a  band  of  music  consisting  of  various  kinds  of 
queer  native  instruments ;  next  the  elephants,  im- 
mense beasts,  their  foreheads,  ears,  and  trunks 
painted  red,  white,  and  yellow,  and  their  bodies 
covered  with  rich  trappings  and  large  ringing 
bells ;  these  followed  by  white  horses  and  an  en- 
thusiastic crowd  of  worshippers.  We  enquired 
with  interest  the  object  of  this  ceremonial,  and 
were  informed  it  was  the  occasion  of  the  elephant's 
bath. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  325 

Tanjore  is  3  hours  by  rail  from  Trichinopoly, 
and  has  a  population  of  52,000.  Here  we  visited 
the  palace  of  the  Rajah,  two  forts,  and  a  church, 
built  by  the  Protestant  missionary  Schwartz,  in 
which  his  remains  lie  buried. 

In  the  great  Pagoda  is  the  colossal  bull 
Mundi,  sacred  to  Siva:  it  is  in  a  recumbent  pos- 
ture, formed  of  stone  which  is  saturated  with  oil, 
and  is  15  feet  in  length  and  12  in  height.  Within 
the  court  is  the  temple  of  Soubramanya,  an  ex- 
quisite piece  of  architecture ;  while  the  corridor 
surrounding  it  is  filled  with  hundreds  of  Linga 
shrines. 

On  the  way  to  Chillambaram  —  a  town  of 
40,000  inhabitants,  and  the  very  hot-bed  of  idola- 
try, we  travelled  with  vast  numbers  of  the  natives, 
on  their  way  to  worship  at  the  temples.  On  reach- 
ing our  destination  we  experienced  an  adventure 
full  of  thrilling  interest.  Disappointed  in  not  see- 
ing at  the  station  the  customary  bungalow,  we 
found  ourselves  isolated  amid  a  curious  crowd  of 
non-English-speaking  natives,  and  evening  clos- 
ing in  upon  us.  After  some  moments  of  anxiety 
we  were  fortunate  enough  to  discover  a  converted 
heathen  who  by  means  of  signs  and  the  few 
English  words  he  knew,  conveyed  to  us  the  wel- 
come information  of  the  residence  of  an  English 
missionary  a  few  miles  beyond  the  town.  Procur- 
ing for  us  a  rough  grain-cart  drawn  by  two  bul- 
locks,— the  only  mode  of  conveyance  to  be  found, 


326  A    TOUR 

he  accompanied  us  as  a  guide,  and  we  set  forth 
for  the  house  of  the  missionary  to  beg  hospitality 
for  the  night. 

On  our  way  through  the  town  we  saw  the  two 
temples  combined  in  one,  of  Siva  and  Parvati, 
enclosed  by  a  high  wall :  and  notwithstanding  the 
protestations  of  our  guide  determined  to  enter. 
He,  for  reasons  best  known  to  himself,  refused  to 
accompany  us,  but  promising  to  meet  us  with  the 
cart  at  another  gateway,  sent  a  native — who  could 
not  speak  a  word  of  English  —  as  his  substitute. 

In  the  former  temple  we  saw  the  sacred  image 
of  the  Dancing  Siva,  besides  some  fine  carvings, 
and  a  chain  cut  from  the  solid  stone  connecting 
two  pillars.  We  were  in  the  very  heart  of  the 
temple,  examining  these  interesting  objects  when 
a  crowd  of  natives  surrounded  us,  gathering  by 
hundreds  as  we  moved,  and  pressing  us  on  all 
sides,  with  threatening  accents  and  menacing  ges- 
tures. In  the  midst  of  our  bewilderment  we  per- 
ceived that  our  guide  had  deserted  us.  Leading 
us  on  from  shrine  to  shrine,  and  finally  forcing  us 
into  a  dark  chamber,  the  priests  compelled  us  to 
comprehend  by  means  of  the  words  "  gold  "  and 
"three  thousand,"  their  demand  for  a  large  sum 
of  money. 

Notwithstanding  the  exigencies  of  the  situation, 
acquiescence  in  their  requirements  was  a  virtual 
impossibility  as  we  were  totally  unprepared  for 
such  excessive  extortion. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  327 

Followed  by  the  excited  mob  closing  in  upon 
us  and  blocking  our  way  at  every  step  we  at- 
tempted to  make  our  escape,  while  the  gathering 
darkness,  and  an  utter  ignorance  of  the  modes  of 
egress  filled  us  with  terrible  forebodings.  In  this 
emergency,  an  "  angel  in  disguise  "  in  the  form  of 
a  small  native  boy  to  whom  we  had  previously 
shown  some  small  act  of  charity,  crept  through 
the  crowd,  and  gave  us  an  almost  imperceptible 
signal  which  our  sharpened  wits  readily  inter- 
preted into  an  invitation  to  follow  him,  which  we 
managed  to  accomplish  with  much  difficulty 
through  devious  and  tortuous  ways,  until  we 
reached  our  conveyance  and  awaiting  guide;  and 
set  forth  with  all  the  speed  of  which  our  bullocks 
were  capable,  to  our  haven  of  safety  and  rest, 
where  the  missionary  and  his  good  wife  gave  us 
most  hospitable  welcome. 

Madras,  the  capital  of  the  Presidency  of  the 
same  name,  is  a  city  of  400,000  inhabitants,  and 
extends  a  distance  of  2  miles  along  the  coast  of  the 
Bay  of  Bengal.  It  is  the  third  city  of  importance 
in  India,  but  its  harbor  is  a  dangerous  one  owing 
to  the  high  surf;  and  its  climate  is  wretched  on 
account  of  the  cyclones  and  typhoons  which  pre- 
vail from  October  to  January. 

The  main  thoroughfares  are  Mount  Road  lead- 
ing to  Fort  St.  George,  and  Mowbray  Road  which 
is  a  fine  avenue  of  banyan  trees.  The  principal 
statues  of  the  city  are  the  equestrian  one  of  Sir 


328  A   TOUR 

Thomas  Munro,  a  marble  one  of  Lord  Cornwallis, 
and  one  of  General  Neil ;  and  near  the  city  is  the 
suburb  of  St.  Thome  —  the  traditional  site  of  the 
martyrdom  of  the  apostle  St.  Thomas. 

From  Madras  to  Bombay,  by  rail,  the  trip  con- 
sumes 36  hours,  and  along  the  route  we  were 
continually  passing  pagodas  and  small  villages,  in 
the  latter  of  which  were  immense  elephants  and 
horses  made  of  stone,  and  painted  in  a  variety  of 
colors,  standing  in  rows  before  some  shrine,  await- 
ing the  convenience  of  the  gods. 

The  route  passes  through  the  independent 
State  of  Hyderabad,  governed  by  the  great  Nizam, 
whose  capital  is  Hyderabad  near  the  old  capital  of 
Golconda.  In  the  southern  part  of  this  territory, 
we  traversed  the  Kistnah  Valley,  where  are  the 
famous  Partial  and  Kollur  diamond  fields,  where 
the  Great  Mogul,  the  Orloff,  the  Koh-i-noor,  the 
Pitt  or  Regent,  and  many  other  historical  and . 
magnificent  gems  were  found.  The  rough  stones 
yielded  by  these  mines  were  formerly  cut  and  pol- 
ished in  the  town  of  Golconda,  about  100  miles 
further  north,  and  from  this  circumstance  the 
diamonds  were  popularly  supposed  to  be  produced 
at  or  near  Golconda  which  is  not  a  diamond- 
bearing  district. 

Beyond  the  State  of  Hyderabad  is  Poonah, 
prettily  situated,  and  a  great  resort  for  the  Gov- 
ernment officials  and  residents  of  Bombay;  and 
further  on  we  arrived  at  the  Bor  Ghat — mean- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  329 

ing  steps, —  which  are  immense  wash-outs  of  land 
2,000  feet  deep.  Here  the  mountains  are  precipi- 
tately scarped,  and  the  railway  wends  its  way 
around  precipices  and  in  zig-zags  from  the  summit 
to  the  ravine  below. 

At  Lanowlee  station,  ponies  are  taken  six  miles 
to  the  celebrated  Karli  caves  —  or  Buddhist  tem- 
ples which  date  about  /8  B.  C.  and  whose  interior 
walls  are  formed  of  huge  statues  of  elephants  and 
other  figures  cut  in  the  solid  rock.  In  its  centre 
is  the  Dagoba,  a  dome  on  a  circular  drum  sur- 
mounted by  a  Chattar,  or  umbrella,  light  being 
thrown  upon  it  by  a  horseshoe-shaped  window  in 
the  side  of  the  cave. 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 

BOMBAY:  SURAT:  BARODA  :  AHMEDABAD  IJEYPOOR: AM- 
BER :    DELHI  :    AGRA  :    CAWNPORE  :    LUCKNOW. 

BOMBAY  — *fair  haven,  as  the  name  signifies  —  is 
the  capital  of  the  Bombay  Presidency.  It  is 
built  upon  a  chain  of  islands  branching  out  south- 
ward from  the  mainland ;  and  incloses  a  splendid 
harbor  of  40  square  miles,  one  of  the  largest  in 
the  world.  The  fort  was  ceded  by  the  Portu- 
guese in  1 66 1,  to  Charles  II.,  who  relinquished 
it  to  the  East  India  Company  in  1668  for  an  an- 


330  A    TOUR 

ntial  rent  of  £\o.  in  gold.  Owing  to  the  increased 
growth  of  Indian  cotton,  and  to  the  opening  of 
the  Suez  Canal,  it  has  rapidly  advanced,  and  has 
a  greater  future  before  it  than  any  other  city  in 
India,  if  not  Asia. 

The  population  of  Bombay  is  750,000.  Of 
these  400,000  are  Hindus,  150,000  Moham- 
medans, 50,000  Parsees,  and  the  remainder  Jains, 
Eurasians,  and  Europeans. 

The  variety  of  nationality  and  costume,  is 
perhaps  more  striking  here  than  elsewhere  in 
India;  crowds  of  coolies,  or  laborers,  with 
their  dark,  shiny  skins,  turbaned  heads  and  the 
strip  of  cloth  around  their  loins ;  native  women, 
graceful  in  figure  and  feature,  arrayed  in  many 
colors  —  crimson,  yellow,  orange,  green,  and  blue 
—  and  decked  in  jewelry;  Parsees  in  white  gar- 
ments, and  dark,  towering,  mitre-shaped  hats; 
and  Mohammedans,  proud  and  stately ;  all  bust- 
ling along  through  the  native  streets  beneath  the 
tropical  sun. 

The  native  town,  which  stretches  northward 
several  miles,  is  mostly  the  business  quarter ;  and 
here  are  also  the  bazaars,  temples,  mosques,  and 
shrines  ;  while  the  houses  are  painted  in  every 
imaginable  color,  and  often  exquisitely  carved  and 
ornamented. 

Between  the  Apollo  Bunder,  a  quay,  and 
the  old  fort,  are  the  finest  European  buildings  in 
the  city,  consisting  of  the  High  Court,  Tower,  Li- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  331 

brary,  University,  Sailors'  Home,  Post  Office, 
and  Watson's  Hotel,  all  built  of  stone,  brick,  and 
iron,  and  creditable  to  any  European  city.  Here 
also  are  erected,  the  white  marble  statue  of  Queen 
Victoria,  and  the  bronze  equestrian  one  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales. 

On  the  Green  of  an  evening,  from  5  to  6  P.  M. 
the  band  plays ;  and  for  five  miles  along  the 
beach,  Europeans,  and  the  rich  native  Baboos, 
or  gentlemen,  drive  their  fine  teams  with  a  great 
display  of  liveried  servants. 

Malabar  Hill  the  favorite  suburban  residence 
of  the  wealthy,  is  a  lofty  ridge,  500  feet  high, 
stretching,  as  a  separate  promontory  for  two  miles 
out  to  sea,  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  and  from  it 
are  obtained  glorious  views  of  the  city  and  ocean. 

On  the  summit  of  this  hill  are  the  Towers  of 
Silence  —  five  mysterious  stone  receptacles  for 
the  Parsee  dead,  which  are  located  in  a  garden  of 
flowers.  These  towers,  which  are  painted  white, 
are  about  100  feet  high,  and  150  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  and  all  around  their  upper  edge  and  cover- 
ing the  trees  in  the  neighborhood,  sit  thousands 
of  large  vultures,  waiting  to  devour  the  dead  de- 
posited there. 

As  the  Parsees, — although  claiming  to  be  mon- 
otheists,  worship  the  four  elements,  they  will  not 
contaminate  earth  by  burial,  or  fire  by  cremation, 
consequently  they  give  their  dead  as  prey  to  the 
vultures.  When  a  funeral  takes  place  the  mourners 


33^  A    TOUR 

stop  in  the  garden  of  flowers ;  the  corpse  is  then 
silently  conveyed  by  the  bearers  to  the  tower,  and 
laid  uncovered  at  the  top  of  one  of  these  stone 
receptacles ;  and  scarcely  have  they  departed 
leaving  their  funeral  garments  behind,  when  the 
vultures  swoop  down  upon  the  inanimate  remains, 
and  in  half  an  hour's  time  not  a  vestige  is  left  but 
the  bones,  which  drop  through  the  grating  into  a 
well  at  the  bottom  of  the  tower,  upon  which  is  a 
layer  of  charcoal  which  prevents  them  from 
defiling  the  earth. 

Another  curious  sight  in  Bombay  is  the  Pan- 
jrapul,  a  hospital  for  diseased  and  decrepid  an- 
imals. This  has  been  founded,  and  is  mainly  sup- 
ported by  the  Jains,  with  whom  tenderness  for 
animal  life  is  a  distinguishing  tenet,  induced  by 
their  belief  that  life  —  whether  it  be  in  man,  an- 
imal, or  vegetable  product,  is  identical. 

In  the  Panjrapul  all  sick,  maimed  or  helpless 
animals  are  treated  free  of  charge  —  from  the 
mammoth  elephant  to  the  tiniest  insect ;  and  we 
saw  numbers  of  buffaloes,  cows,  monkeys,  birds 
and  other  animals  there  for  treatment. 

The  Caves  of  Elephanta  are  on  an  island  6 
miles  from  Bombay,  which  we  reached  by  a  steam 
launch.  A  stone  pathway  and  many  steps  led 
us  to  the  famous  caves  which  are  Brahman  temples 
hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock.  Three  massive 
columns  divide  the  entrance  and  support  a  huge 
overhanging  cliff,  mantled  with  verdure,  on  which 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  333 

grow  trees  with  hanging  bird's  nests.  The  cave 
is  130  feet  deep  and  equally  wide,  hollowed  out 
of  trap-rock  with  huge  pillars  left  to  support  the 
roof.  Just  within  the  entrance  is  a  colossal  figure 
of  the  Hindu  trinity :  Brahma,  the  creator,  in  the 
centre;  Vishnu,  the  preserver,  on  the  left,  and 
Siva,  the  destroyer,  on  the  right ;  besides  various 
other  images  cut  in  the  walls. 

From  Bombay  we  took  the  rail  directly  north, 
passing  through  Surat,  one  of  the  first  English 
settlements  in  India.  Here  there  are  many  cot- 
ton factories,  and  the  immense  tombs  of  the  gov- 
ernors of  the  English  and  Dutch  mills. 

At  Baroda,  a  curiously  built  native  city  with 
streets  crossing  one  above  the  other,  we  visited 
the  Gaikwar's  palace,  and  were  shown  his  gold 
and  silver  cannons  —  their  carriages  covered  with 
the  same  material.  We  also  inspected  his  collec- 
tion of  wild  animals,  and  visited  the  square  stone 
arena,  where  are  given  the  tiger  and  elephant 
fights  with  which  he  entertains  his  European 
guests  with  the  most  extraordinary  magnificence. 

In  Ahmedabad  we  went  to  see  the  Jain 
temple  —  a  splendid  structure  with  many  spires 
and  elaborate  carving.  The  interior  walls  and 
the  floors  are  of  a  variety  of  polished  marbles, 
while  the  images  in  niches  around  the  temple  and 
in  the  centre  are  of  the  purest  alabaster  covered 
with  gold  and  quantities  of  precious  stones  and 
having  large  pearls  and  diamonds  for  eyes. 


334  A  TOUR 

As  we  drove  through  the  town  there  were 
numbers  of  wild  apes  on  the  housetops,  gates  and 
fences;  and  in  the  streets,  going  from  house  to 
house,  begging  for  food  which  they  are  seldom  re- 
fused, and  all  along  the  line  of  rail,  for  two  days, 
we  saw  hundreds  of  these  animals,  many  of  them 
as  large  as  a  lad  of  12,  sitting  by  the  roadside  look- 
ing at  the  passing  train.  At  noon  we  reached 
Mount  Abu,  the  Mecca  of  the  Jains  ;  on  the  sum- 
mit of  which  are  some  of  their  finest  temples  in 
India. 

Jeypoor,  the  capital  of  Rajpootana,  is  a  walled 
city  containing  150,000  inhabitants.  It  being  the 
province  of  a  native  prince,  no  European  or  white 
man  is  allowed  within  the  limits  of  the  city  with- 
out a  pass  from  the  Maharajah.  Presenting  a 
letter  of  introduction  from  Sir  Richard  Temple, 
late  governor  of  Bombay,  to  the  English  political 
agent,  we  received  a  permit  from  His  Highness  to 
visit  the  city,  palace,  and  old  capital  Amber;  and 
were  given  a  special  escort  with  staff  of  office. 

The  streets  of  Jeypoor  are  40  yards  wide,  and 
run  at  right  angles;  at  the  main  crossings  of 
which,  are  the  market-places,  with  fountains,  and 
temples  having  two  stone  elephants  at  each  en- 
trance. The  houses  are  stuccoed,  painted  pink, 
and  ornamented  with  barbaric  frescoing.  The 
palace  of  the  Maharajah  is  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  painted  yellow,  and  occupies  with  its  grounds 
two  square  miles.  It  is  five  stones  high,  and  has 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  335, 

many  fine  apartments,  some  being  of  marble ; 
while  the  garden  comprising  70  acres,  is  filled 
with  fountains,  and  at  its  extremity  is  a  lake 
where  there  are  immense  turtles  and  crocodiles  14 
feet  in  length. 

We  were  also  shown  the  Maharajah's  extensive 
collection  of  birds  and  wild  animals  among  which 
were  white  pea-fowls,  and  the  finest  specimens  of 
tigers  in  India  ;  several  having  just  been  caught 
in  the  jungle  two  miles  distant  from  the  palace, 
from  the  roof  of  which  these  animals  are  plainly 
visible  in  all  their  native  freedom  and  ferocity. 

Amber,  the  ancient  capital,  is  six  miles  from 
Jeypoor,  and  hither  the  Maharajah  sent  us,  with 
an  escort  of  several  attendants,  on  one  of  his  State 
elephants,  the  largest  we  had  ever  seen  ;  decked 
with  showy  trappings  and  richly  caparisoned  how- 
dah,  its  tusks  ornamented  with  burnished  bands. 
The  mahout,  a  native  who  guided  his  course,  sat 
on  his  neck  ;  and  so  perfect  was  his  control  of  the 
huge  beast  that  at  a  word  of  command  he  would 
kneel,  in  order  to  facilitate  our  mounting  and  dis- 
mounting ;  notwithstanding  which  a  ladder  was 
necessary  to  enable  us  to  ascend  or  descend  his 
sides.  In  this  novel  manner  we  wended  our  way 
along  the  edge  of  the  jungle  where  large  apes 
sporting  among  the  overhanging  branches  of  the 
trees  grinned  down  upon  us,  in  such  close  prox- 
imity that  we  instinctively  grasped  our  hats  in  the 
not  unfounded  fear  of  having  them  snatched  away. 


336  A  TOUR 

After  passing  many  ancient  temples  and 
shrines  we  arrived  at  Amber  which  retains  of  its 
former  magnificence  only  the  ruins  of  its  fine 
palace,  which  is  situated  on  a  high  hill  overlook- 
ing the  native  town,  and  a  beautiful  little  lake. 

Delhi  whose  ancient  wealth  and  grandeur  has 
been  described  by  Moore,  in  the  departure  of 
Lalla  Rookh  from  her  father's  capital  to  Cash- 
mere where  she  went  to  meet  her  betrothed,  the 
king  of  Bucharia,  is  situated  on  the  Jumna  river, 
and  dates  from  1400  B.  C.  It  has  been  destroyed 
seven  times,  but  its  extent  and  magnificence  can 
somewhat  be  imagined  when  one  beholds  its 
temples,  columns,  and  tombs  strewn  thickly  over 
an  area  of  45  square  miles.  It  was  governed  in 
turn  by  Hindus,  Mohammedans,  Tartars,  Af- 
ghans, and  Moguls  ;  and  its  treasures  rifled  by 
each  successive  conqueror ;  but  many  of  its  finest 
buildings  yet  stand,  in  a  remarkable  state  of  pre- 
servation, as  monuments  of  its  past  grandeur. 

The  city  of  to-day,  whose  population  numbers 
155,000  was  built  by  Shah  Jehan  in  1637,  wno  m~ 
herited  the  great  wealth  and  genius  of  his  grand- 
father Akbar  the  Great.  The  city  wall,  which  is 
of  red  sandstone,  is  five  miles  in  circumference,  and 
has  eight  gates  ;  the  citadel  is  inclosed  within  an- 
other wall  one  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference, 
entered  by  the  Delhi  and  Lahore  gates,  and  com- 
prises the  fort,  palace  and  other  fine  buildings. 
Entering  the  fort  by  the  Lahore  gate  —  called  the 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  337 

king's  umbrella  from  its  splendid  Gothic  arch, — we 
first  visited  the  Diwan-i-Am  —  or  hall  of  public 
audience  —  a  large  apartment  open  at  three  sides, 
and  supported  by  rows  of  red  sandstone  pillars 
formerly  adorned  with  gilding  and  stucco  work. 
Behind  the  throne  is  a  doorway  by  which  the 
Emperor  entered  from  his  private  apartments; 
and  the  wall  is  covered  with  mosaic  pictures  in 
precious  stones,  of  some  of  the  most  beautiful 
fruits,  birds,  flowers,  and  animals  of  Hindostan. 
These  were  executed,  as  Avas  also  the  work  in  the 
palace  by  Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who  after  defraud- 
ing several  of  the  princes  of  Europe  by  means  of 
false  gems  which  he  fabricated  with  great  skill, 
sought  refuge  at  the  court  of  Shah  Jehan,  where 
he  was  in  great  favor  with  the  Emperor,  and  made 
a  large  fortune. 

Next  we  saw  the  Motee  Musjeed  —  or  Pearl 
Mosque  built  of  marble  and  so  called  from  its 
pearl-like  whiteness  and  beauty. 

The  palace  of  Shah  Jehan  is  a  beautiful  struc- 
ture of  the  purest  marble  raised  on  a  terrace  four 
feet  high,  with  floors,  walls,  and  supports  of  the 
same  material  inlaid  with  gold,  silver,  and  precious 
stones.  The  top  of  the  building  is  surmounted 
by  four  marble  pavilions  with  gilt  cupolas,  and 
the  ceiling  was  originally  completely  covered 
with  silver  filigree;  but  in  1759  the  Mahrattas, 
under  Sedasheo  Bhad,  after  the  capture  of  the 
city,  possessed  themselves  of  it  and  caused  it  to 


338  A  TOUR 

be  melted  into  coin  —  the  value  of  the  same  being 
estimated  at  $850,000.  At  one  end  of  the  build- 
ing are  the  baths  of  the  Shah,  and  those  of  the 
ladies  of  the  harem,  decorated  in  extravagant  style; 
and  these  are  connected,  by  a  stream  of  water,  run- 
ning through  the  building  in  a  shallow  trough 
cut  in  the  marble  floor,  with  their  repose  and 
sleeping  apartments.  These  latter  surpass  even 
the  baths  in  richness,  and  have  open-work  marble 
screens  through  which  the  ladies  of  the  harem 
could  look  upon  the  outer  world.  Adjoining 
them  is  a  small  apartment  on  whose  walls  are 
golden  representations  of  the  sun  and  moon,  and 
of  a  pair  of  balances  before  which  the  Emperor 
paused  for  prayer  before  entering  court,  and 
asked  that  he  might  deal  justice  in  his  judgments. 
The  Diwan-i-Khas — or  Hall  of  private  Audi- 
ence— particularly  set  apart  for  the  reception  of  the 
nobles,  is  by  far  the  finest  and  most  interesting 
apartment  in  the  building.  It  is  a  quadrangle  of 
moderate  dimensions  and  constructed  entirely  of 
the  purest  of  white  marble,  with  massive  pillars  of 
the  same  material,  the  whole  of  which  are  richly 
ornamented  with  flowers  of  inlaid  mosaic  work  of 
different  colored  stones,  and  with  gildings ;  and  on 
the  side  looking  out  upon  the  river,  there  is 
a  marble  balustrade  chastely  carved  in  intricate 
designs  of  perforated  work.  In  the  centre 
of  this  hall  once  stood  the  famous  Peacock 
throne,  so  called  from  its  four  peacocks,  two 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  339 

above  and  one  on  each  side,  with  expanded  tails, 
which  with  their  bodies  were  so  inlaid  with  sap- 
phires, rubies,  emeralds,  pearls,  and  other  precious 
stones  of  appropriate  color,  as  to  impart  a  won- 
derful resemblance  to  the  real  bird.  The  throne 
itself  was  an  oblong  platform  6x4  feet;  it  stood 
on  six  massive  feet  which  like  the  body  were  of 
solid  gold  inlaid  with  emeralds,  rubies,  and  dia- 
monds. It  was  surmounted  by  a  canopy  of  gold, 
supported  by  twelve  pillars  all  richly  emblazoned 
with  costly  gems,  and  a  fringe  of  pearls  orna- 
mented its  outer  edge.  Between  the  two  topmost 
peacocks  stood  the  life-size  figure  of  a  parrot, 
said  to  have  been  carved  from  a  single  emerald. 
On  each  side  of  this  throne  was  a  chattar,  or 
umbrella,  one  of  the  Oriental  emblems  of  royalty  : 
they  were  formed  of  crimson  velvet  richly  em- 
broidered and  fringed,  like  the  canopy,  with 
pearls :  the  handles  were  eight  feet  in  length,  of 
solid  gold,  and  studded  with  diamonds.  The  cost 
of  this  superb  work  of  art  has  been  estimated  at 
$30,000,000. 

The  Peacock  throne  with  nearly  all  the  treas- 
ure in  the  imperial  city,  was  carried  off  by  Nadir 
Shah  the  Persian  conqueror,  who  in  1739  having 
defeated  at  Karnaul  the  reigning  emperor,  Mo- 
hammed Shah  —  grandson  of  Shah  Jehan  — 
marched  with  that  sovereign,  a  captive  in  his 
train,  to  Delhi.  The  inhabitants  enraged  on 
beholding  this,  rashly  attacked  the  Persian  guard  ; 


340  A   TOUR 

whereupon  Nadir  Shah  ordered  a  general  mas- 
sacre, and  caused  the  eyes  of  the  dethroned 
monarch  to  be  put  out.  The  city  has  never 
recovered  from  the  work  of  destruction  to  which 
it  was  then  doomed. 

In  one  end  of  this  famous  Audience  Hall,  is  yet 
distinctly  visible  in  golden  Persian  characters, 
these  words :  "  if  there  is  a  paradise  upon  earth, 
it  is  this  —  it  is  this  !" 

The  principal  mosque  of  Delhi  is  the  Jumma 
Musjeed,  or  Friday  mosque,  built  on  a  rocky 
eminence  considerably  elevated  above  the  ground, 
200x120  feet,  and  surmounted  by  3  cupolas  of 
white  marble  with  gilt  spires ;  while  the  main 
building  with  lofty  minarets  and  extensive  court, 
is  built  of  red  sandstone.  Here  on  the  1 2th  of 
November,  we  witnessed  the  Mohurrum  a  great 
festival  of  the  Mohammedan  Shiah  Sect,  when 
they  paraded  gilt  representations  of  the  tomb  of 
Hussien,  —  grand-son  of  Mohammed,  through  the 
streets,  after  which  they  buried  them  with  great 
ceremony. 

The  Kutab  Minar,  a  fluted  column  240  feet 
high,  iiofeet  in  circumference  at  the  base,  and 
gradually  diminishing  in  a  series  of  5  stories  like 
the  joints  of  a  telescope,  to  30  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence at  the  summit,  is  built  of  stuccoed  stone,  and 
handsomely  carved  with  the  99  names  of  the  Al- 
mighty, in  Arabic  letters.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  built  by  the  Hindus,  and  subsequently  con- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  34! 

verted  into  a  minaret  by  the  Mohammedans.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  the  highest  column  standing 
alone  in  the  world,  before  the  erection  of  the 
Washington  monument,  and  is  one  of  the  gigan- 
tic reminders  of  old  Delhi. 

Near  by,  and  almost  adjoining  the  Kutab 
Minar,  is  Aladdin's  Gate  —  a  majestic  arch,  beau- 
tifully carved  and  built  for  the  entrance  of  a  pal- 
ace ;  while  connected  with  it  are  the  remains  of  a 
mosque  built  of  red  sandstone  from  the  ruins  of 
eleven  Hindu  temples  whose  site  was  once  on  this 
spot.  In  the  midst  of  this  ruin  stands  the  enig- 
matical iron  pillar,  weighing  about  17  tons,  and  60 
feet  in  length  but  now  only  22  feet  above  the 
ground.  It  is  supposed  to  be  of  Brahmanical 
origin,  and  legend  gives  it  the  symbolical  signifi- 
cance of  the  strength  and  subsequent  downfall  of 
the  city. 

From  here  we  stopped  at  a  tank  filled  with 
water,  to  witness  a  performance  of  the  na- 
tives ;  who  jump  into  it,  from  the  roofs  of  the 
neighboring  houses,  feet  foremost,  to  a  depth  of 
some  fifty  feet,  falling  with  the  dull  thud  of  an  in- 
animate body;  after  which,  in  a  state  of  exhaus- 
tion, they  come  to  beg  an  anna  —  two  and  a  half 
cents  —  from  the  bystander. 

We  then  drove  to  the  Lat  of  Fyroz  Shah  —  a 
monolith  of  red  sandstone  upon  which  is  an  in- 
scription in  Pali  indicating  that  it  was  erected  by 
Asoka;  then  to  the  tomb  of  Humayun,  Akbar's 


342  A   TOUR 

father,  a  tyrant  of  great  cruelty  and  patron  of 
thuggism,  which  is  of  colossal  size,  built  of  red 
sandstone,  and  required  16  years  in  its  con- 
struction; and  further  on  to  the  tomb  of  a  cer- 
tain king  of  Delhi  who  was  so  partial  to  cherry 
brandy  that  he  consumed  it  at  the  rate  of  a  glass 
an  hour,  until  it  was  the  cause  of  his  untimely 
death. 

But  more  affecting  than  all  these  grand  tombs 
built  of  stone,  with  towering  domes  and  hand- 
somely-carved marble  screens  and  porticos,  is  the 
grave  of  the  lovely  daughter  of  Shah  Jehan, 
who  remained  faithful  to  him  when  his  son  had 
caused  his  imprisonment.  It  is  simply  a  sodded 
mound,  bearing  on  the  headstone  the  following 
inscription  in  Arabic  :  "  Let  no  rich  canopy  cover 
my  grave  :  this  grass  is  the  most  appropriate  cov- 
ering for  the  poor  in  spirit." 

From  here  we  returned  to  the  city  of  Delhi 
and  drove  through  its  chatik  —  or  main  street, 
where  are  the  bazaars  and  principal  shops.  It  was 
here,  in  the  late  mutiny  of  1857,  that  Captain 
Hodson,  an  English  officer  exposed  to  public  view 
the  bodies  of  the  two  sons  of  Behadar  Shah  — 
the  last,  and  aged  king  of  Delhi  —  whom,  after 
their  surrender,  he  had  caused  without  trial,  to  be 
shot. 

Agra,  formerly  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
northwest  provinces,  is  a  scattering  city  situated 
on  the  river  Jumna.  The  fort,  which  is  one  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  343 

the  finest  in  India,  is  of  red  sandstone,  with  walls 
40  feet  high,  and  comprises  many  fine  buildings. 
It  Vas  built  by  Akbar  the  Great,  who  had  three 
wives,  a  Christian,  a  Hindu  and  a  Mohammedan. 
He  built  a  church  for  the  first,  a  temple  for  the 
second,  and  a  mosque  for  the  third,  declaring  his 
determination  to  be  on  the  safe  side.  Within  the 
fort,  we  visited  the  palace  of  Akbar ;  the  public 
and  private  Judgment  Halls ;  the  throne  of  Je- 
hanjeer  where  this  sovereign  sat  to  witness  the 
elephant  and  tiger  fights  in  the  arena  below;  the 
palace  of  Shah  Jehan  where  he  was  imprisoned 
by  his  son,  and  the  very  room  in  which  he  died  ; 
also  the  Sultana's  bath-room  with  walls  and  ceil- 
ings formed  of  thousands  of  pieces  of  convex 
mirrors  casting  innumerable  reflections.;  the  Pil- 
lared Hall  where  the  sultan  and  sultanas  played 
hide  and  seek ;  and  the  dungeons  beneath  it 
where  the  ladies  of  the  harem,  falling  into  dis- 
favor, were  hung,  and  their  bodies  washed  into 
the  river  through  an  underground  passage. 

We  drove  across  the  Jumna  over  a  bridge  of 
boats,  to  see  the  tomb  of  It-mad-ud-Daulah  — 
the  prime  minister  to  Jehanjeer.  He  came  from 
Persia  a  poor  man,  his  sole  possession  the  ox 
upon  which  he  rode ;  and  subsequently  became  a 
great  favorite  with  his  sovereign,  who  married  his 
daughter,  and  loaded  him  with  benefits,  and 
placed  this  magnificent  tomb  over  his  remains. 

The  Taj- Mahal,  erected  by  Shah  Jehan,  as  a 


344  A  TOUR 

mausoleum  for  his  favorite  wife,  whose  title 
was  Begum  Muntaz  Mahal,  is  by  far  the 
most  beautiful  structure  in  Agra,  if  not  in  the 
world,  and  might  well  be  reckoned  as  one  of  the 
Wonders.  It  was  commenced  in  1630  and  is  said 
to  have  occupied  20,000  workmen  for  17  years, 
at  a  cost  of  about  $60,000,000.  It  is  in  a  beauti- 
ful garden  2  miles  from  Agra,  on  the  bank  of  the 
Jumna,  rising  from  a  double  platform  ;  the  first 
of  red  sandstone  some  20  feet  high  and  1,000 
broad;  the  second  of  marble  15  feet  high  and  300 
square,  at  the  corners  of  which  stand  4  marble 
minarets,  1 80  feet  high  each.  In  the  centre  of 
this  platform  reared  high  in  air,  stands  the  Taj 
with  giant  arches  and  clustering  domes.  Its  base 
is  a  square  of  186  feet,  its  height  is  200  feet,  and 
it  is  built  of  the  purest  white  marble  with  Arabic 
inscriptions  traced  over  the  entrances.  On  either 
side  of  it  are  mosques,  the  one  facing  Mecca  de- 
signed for  worship,  the  other  serving  only  to 
complete  the  unity  of  appearance.  Within  the 
mausoleum  are  the  remains  of  Shah  Jehan  and 
his  favorite  wife  Taj, —  the  pet  name  of  the 
Begum  Muntaz  —  in  whose  honor  it  was  named. 

One  characteristic  of  the  Tartars  was  their 
tomb-building  propensity;  and  each  Mogul  in 
turn  built  a  tomb  for  himself. 

The  symmetry  of  outline,  the  imposing  and 
dazzling  effect  of  the  materials  used,  as  well  as 
the  delicate  inlaid  work,  and  the  intricate  marble 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  345 

carvings,  render  the  Taj  an  object  that  must  be 
seen  by  both  daylight  and  moonlight  in  order 
fully  to  realize  its  perfect  beauty  and  finish.  All 
parts  of  the  Orient  have  contributed  their  treas- 
ures to  the  embellishment  of  this  marvellous  mau- 
soleum :  Jeypoor  its  white  marble ;  the  Nar- 
budda  its  rock-spar  and  yellow  marble  ;  Charkoh 
its  black  marble  ;  China  its  crystal ;  the  Punjab  its 
jasper ;  Bagdad  its  carnelian  ;  Thibet  its  tur- 
quoise ;  Yemen  its  agate ;  Ceylon  its  sapphires ; 
Arabia  its  coral ;  the  Bundelkund  its  garnets ; 
Punnah  its  diamonds ;  Gwalior  its  lodestone ; 
Villate  its  chalcedony ;  and  Persia  its  onyx  and 
amethyst.  Many  of  the  most  valuable  of  these 
precious  stones  have  been  rifled  from  their  set- 
tings by  the  Jats  and  Europeans;  and  conse- 
quently a  guard  is  now  kept  constantly  on  watch 
day  and  night.  What  is  huge  and  massive  is 
usually  associated  in  the  mind  with  what  is  rough 
and  ponderous;  but  here  is  the  majesty  of  a 
giant  building  combined  with  the  lightness  and 
delicacy  of  a  costly  jewel-casket. 

The  tomb  of  Akbar  the  Great,  is  8  miles 
from  Agra,  near  Secundra,  in  a  court  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  square,  with  a  heavy  fortress-like  wall 
surrounding  it.  It  is  30  feet  square  and  100 
high  ;  rising  in  terraces  of  pyramidal  form  with 
cloisters,  galleries  and  domes,  to  the  height  of  5 
stories.  The  body  of  Akbar  is  interred  in  the 
vault  beneath ;  but  on  the  extreme  top,  in  the 


346  A   TOUR 

centre  of  the  building,  is  his  white  marble  tomb, 
with  the  99  names  of  the  Almighty  beautifully  in- 
scribed upon  it  in  Arabic  characters ;  and  at  its 
head  stands  a  marble  urn  upon  which  once  was — 
placed  there  by  his  grandson  Shah  Jehan  —  the 
great  gem  known  as  the  Koh-i-noor  diamond,  now 
the  centre  ornament  in  the  crown  of  England. 

Cawnpore,  situated  on  the  Ganges,  is  a  busy, 
populous  town,  with  cotton  factories,  flour  mills 
and  leather  works ;  but  its  principal  interest  cen- 
tres in  the  monuments  and  commemorative  spots 
which  testify  to  the  hardships  and  cruelty  that 
prevailed  during  the  mutiny  of  1857.  Of  these 
is  a  well,  which  is  now  covered  over  and  sur- 
mounted by  the  marble  statue  of  an  angel,  with 
drooping  wings,  leaning  against  a  cross ;  her 
arms  folded  over  her  breast,  and  in  her  hands 
two  palm-leaves  emblematical  of  martyrdom  and 
victory.  On  the  pedestal  is  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : 

"  Sacred  to  the  perpetual  memory  of  a  great  com- 
pany of  Christian  people,  chiefly  women  and  children, 
who,  near  this  spot  were  cruelly  massacred  by  the  fol- 
lowers of  the  rebel  Nana  Dhoondopunt  of  Bithoor; 
and  cast,  the  dying  with  the  dead,  into  the  well  below 
on  the  1 5th  day  of  July,  1857." 

A  memorial  church,  a  short  distance  away, 
stands  in  the  midst  of  what  was  Wheeler's  in- 
trenchment ;  where  that  general,  gathering  to- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  347 

gether  the  330  women  and  children,  surrounded 
and  guarded  them  with  250  soldiers  and  300  citi- 
zens, the  balance  of  his  army  having  mutinied ; 
and  when  at  length  this  worn-out  band,  reduced 
by  sickness  and  death,  yielding  to  the  treacherous 
promises  of  the  Nana  Sahib  of  safe  conduct  down 
the  river,  surrendered,  they  were  cruelly  mas- 
sacred at  the  Suttee  Chaore  —  a  temple  now 
marking  the  spot  —  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges. 

Lucknow  the  capital  of  Oude,  is  a  city  of 
262,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Goomti,  a  tributary  of  the  Ganges.  Like 
Cawnpore  it  was  the  scene  of  much  suffering  and 
bloodshed  during  the  great  mutiny.  It  was  in 
the  Residency  here  that  in  1857,  2,200  souls 
consisting  of  1,000  European  residents  with  their 
families  sought  refuge;  and  that  1,000  soldiers 
under  the  English  general,  Sir  Henry  Lawrence, 
kept  a  large  army  of  Sepoys  at  bay  for  six 
months. 

The  building  is  a  large  three-story  house, 
with  towers  and  thick  walls,  standing  on  an  ele- 
vation in  the  midst  of  extensive  grounds.  We 
descended  into  the  vast  cellars  where  the  women 
and  children  had  found  refuge ;  shot  and  shell 
having  left  their  traces  on  every  side.  The , 
tombs  of  Lawrence  and  other  brave  men  are 
within  the  grounds,  bearing  touching  epitaphs 
commemorative  of  the  events  attending  their 
deaths.  The  house  is  a  ruin  and  a  melancholy 


343  A   TOUR 

spectacle ;  but  Nature  has  mantled  the  spot  with 
verdure,  and  the  gardens  are  blooming  with 
flowers. 

Lucknow  has  some  very  grand  and  imposing 
buildings,  especially  those  in  the  fort;  among 
which  are,  the  Imaun  Barra — an  old  palace — and 
several  mosques  and  gates  crowned  with  domes, 
of  a  very  pleasing  style  of  architecture. 

Among  the  most  important  buildings  which 
we  visited  are  the  Kaisar  Bagh  with  its  large 
grounds  and  Turkish  pavilion ;  the  Chattar  Man- 
zie,  surmounted  by  a  gilt  umbrella, —  the  emblem 
of  ancient  royalty;  the  Hooseinbad  —  or  Palace 
of  Light ;  and  the  Dilkusha  palace  where  Henry 
Havelock  died. 

The  Martiniere  College  is  an  immense  building 
styled  a  second  Versailles.  It  was  built  by  a 
Frenchman  named  Martin  who  came  out  to  In- 
dia a  private  soldier,  and  after  having  become  a 
general,  with  a  large  fortune,  built  this  edifice  for 
his  private  residence. 

At  the  Elephant  Stables,  3  miles  from  Luck- 
now,  the  English  government  keeps  100  of  the 
largest  of  these  animals,  which  are  used  on  state 
occasions,  or  in  time  of  war  for  transporting  can- 
non. The  obedience  of  these  huge  brutes  who 
salaam,  or  salute,  and  lie  prostrate  at  the  word  of 
command,  is  proof  of  their  remarkable  intelligence 
and  docility. 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  349 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

BENARES  :      THE   GANGES  :      SERAMPORE  :     DARJEELING  : 
CALCUTTA ITS    ENVIRONS. 

BENARES,  the  sacred  city  of  the  Hindus,  located 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  mighty  Ganges,  has  a 
population  of  208,000.  It  dates  from  1200  B.  C. 
and  was  frequently  alluded  to  in  early  Sanscrit 
literature.  What  Jerusalem  is  to  the  Jew ;  what 
Rome  is  to  the  Latin ;  what  Mecca  is  to  the  Mo- 
hammedan, Benares  is  to  the  Hindu. 

It  contains  1,400  temples,  over  3,000  shrines, 
300  mosques,  and  25,000  Brahmans,  or  priests. 
Its  chief  source  of  revenue  is  obtained  from  the 
offerings  of  the  horde  of  pilgrims  who  resort  there 
daily  to  worship  at  the  shrines. 

In  Benares  one  sees  what  Hinduism  practically 
is,  idolatry  of  the  basest  description ;  the  worship 
of  Vishnu,  the  preserver,  and  of  Siva,  the  de- 
stroyer, being  represented  by  numberless  idols 
and  symbols  of  the  most  revolting  character. 
Here  Brahmanism  and  Caste  hold  sway,  and  Hin- 
duism has  acquired  a  stony  compactness  and 
solidity  almost  impenetrable.  The  sanctity  of 
Benares  —  its  temples,  reservoirs,  wells  and 


350  A   TOUR 

streams  —  has  been  famed  for  thousands  of 
years ;  and  it  is  the  aim  of  every  good  Hindu  to 
visit  it  once  annually ;  and  if  possible,  when  sick, 
to  be  conveyed  there  either  to  seek  life  or  to  find 
death  within  the  sacred  precincts. 

In  the  holy  Kasi,  or  Benares,  each  native 
Hindu  prince  owns  his  private  palace  which  he 
occupies  during  his  sojourn.  The  Brahmans,  or 
priests,  are  among  the  richest  of  her  citizens, 
their  wealth  being  derived  from  the  offerings  of 
the  pilgrims ;  and  although  some  of  them  are 
intelligent,  they  are  usually  worldly  and  immoral. 

Idolatry  seems  to  have  a  charm  for  the 
masses,  the  persuasive  teachings  of  their  priests 
having  for  them  a  singular  fascination ;  and  their 
zeal  and  earnest  observance  of  their  rites  might 
well  teach  a  lesson  to  those  who  claim  the  light  of 
a  Revealed  religion. 

We  traversed  on  foot  the  narrow  dirty  streets 
and  bazaars  of  Benares,  inspecting  the  brass 
wares,  toys,  and  embroideries  for  which  this  city 
is  celebrated ;  and  at  every  few  steps  were 
brought  to  a  sudden  halt  by  some  sacred  bull  — 
these  animals  being  permitted  to  wander  at  ran- 
dom whithersoever  they  please,  even  into  houses 
and  shops,  demolishing  stands  of  eatables  with 
perfect  impunity.  But  filthier  by  far  than  the 
streets,  are  many  of  the  temples  and  shrines  filled 
with  live  sacred  animals,  such  as  bulls,  dogs, 
monkeys,  serpents,  doves  and  pigeons ;  and  idols 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  351 

besmeared  with  oil  and  ochre,  which  with  the 
food  offered  to  the  latter,  as  well  as  to  the  more 
appreciative  live  stock,  combine  to  create  an  al- 
most unbearable  stench.  Each  temple,  shrine, 
well,  and  idol  of  Benares,  has  its  distinctive  legend, 
which  is  invariably  extravagant. 

The  Golden  Temple  is  dedicated  to  Siva,  the 
presiding  deity  of  Benares,  and  is  considered  the 
holiest  of  all  the  places  in  the  city ;  while  the 
symbol  of  the  god  is  a  plain  Linga  of  uncarved 
stone. 

In  the  Temple  of  Ampura,  all  beggars  are  fed 
daily.  The  goddess  Ampura  is  their  divinity  of 
love  and  beauty ;  and  her  charms  are  enhanced 
by  ornaments  of  gold  and  silver.  In  one  shrine 
of  this  temple  is  an  idol  representing  the  sun 
seated  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  seven  horses;  in 
another  is  Gauri  Shanker;  in  another  Hanoo- 
man  —  the  monkey-god  ;  and  in  yet  another  Ga- 
nesh,  with  his  elephant  trunk. 

The  Temple  of  Bhaironath  enshrines  a  god 
who  is  the  protector  of  Benares.  The  idol  is 
of  stone  with  a  face  of  silver,  and  head  encircled 
with  garlands;  he  has  four  hands,  and  is  armed 
with  a  stone  bludgeon.  Behind  him  is  the 
image  of  a  dog,  on  which  the  deity  is  sup- 
posed to  ride.  Before  the  temple  sits  a  priest 
with  a  chowry  or  switch  of  peacock  feathers  in- 
flicting gentle  punishment  upon  the  worshippers 
who  offer  themselves  for  chastisement.  In  this 


352  A    TOUR 

temple  there  congregate  numbers  of  dogs  which 
are  fed  daily  by  men  appointed  for  the  purpose. 

Near  by  is  the  Temple  of  Sukreswar  —  a 
creative  god ;  that  of  Sitla,  the  goddess  presiding 
over  small-pox;  and  the  Temple  of  Naugrah 
dedicated  to  the  planets  in  which  every  Hindu 
must  inaugurate  each  important  religious  cere- 
mony. 

In  the  Temple  of  Ganesh  is  its  god  painted 
red,  with  three  eyes,  a  silver  head,  and  an  ele- 
phant's trunk ;  while  at  his  feet  is  the  figure  of  a 
rat  on  which  the  god  is  supposed  to  ride. 

The  Trilochan  Temple  which  is  devoted  to 
Siva  has  at  its  entrance  a  marble  bull ;  while  the 
paintings  on  the  wall  represent  hell  with  the  river 
of  death  in  the  foreground,  and  figures  in  it  en- 
deavoring to  make  their  way  to  the  opposite  shore. 

The  Temple  of  Kameshwar  is  dedicated  to 
the  god  of  wishes,  whose  prerogative  it  is  to  grant 
the  desires  of  his  worshippers ;  and  as  the  wants 
of  mankind  are  legion,  it  is  not  surprising  that 
Kameshwar  has  a  host  of  devotees. 

The  Nepaulese  Temple  occupies  one  of  the 
most  conspicuous  places  in  the  city,  and  from  a 
distance  presents  a  handsome  appearance ;  but 
on  a  closer  examination,  it  is  found  to  be  defiled 
with  carvings  of  an  obscene  character. 

At  the  extreme  end  of  the  city,  and  near  the 
river's  bank,  is  the  Durga  Kund  —  or  monkey 
temple,  so  called  from  the  hundreds  of  brown 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  353 

monkeys,  sacred  to  Durga,  who  inhabit  the 
temple,  bathe  in  the  tank,  and  rear  their  young 
in  a  hollow  tamarind  tree  near  by.  Here  every 
Tuesday  morning  sacrifices  of  goats  and  buffaloes 
take  place ;  and  the  ground  around  is  saturated 
with  the  blood  of  these  animals. 

The  Wells  of  Fate,  Knowledge,  Salvation,  of 
the  Moon,  and  of  Hindu  mythology,  are  as  full  of 
curious  legends  as  they  are  of  putrid  water  from 
which  emanate  the  most  noisome  smells.  Op- 
posite the  Nepaulese  Temple  is  a  Well  whose 
waters  are  so  pestilent  that  the  effluvium  pollutes 
the  air  around  ;  but  notwithstanding  this  fact  the 
sick  and  aged,  believing  in  its  miraculous  proper- 
ties of  imparting  health  and  longevity,  bathe  in 
this  well  and  even  drink  its  waters.  Lepers,  the 
very  sight  of  whom  is  sickening,  and  those  suffer- 
ing from  other  contagious  diseases,  bathe  in  com- 
mon, an  act  which  is  calculated  to  shorten  life 
rather  than  to  prolong  it. 

One  of  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  houses 
in  Benares  is  the  Manmandil,  the  whole  top  of 
which  is  covered  with  huge  astronomical  instru- 
ments built  of  stone,  which  excite  the  wonder  of 
all  scientific  men.  Here  are  instruments  used  for 
taking  the  sun's  altitude  and  zenith ;  for  ascer- 
taining its  greatest  declination ;  its  distance  at 
noon  ;  its  ascensions ;  the  latitudes,  and  for  find- 
ing the  degrees  of  azimuth  of  a  planet  or  star; 
and  here  also  is  an  equinoctial  stone. 

23 


354  A  TOUR 

The  great  sight  of  Benares  is  its  river  front  in 
the  early  morning,  when  the  rays  of  sunrise  flood 
the  city  with  brightness,  and  its  inhabitants  bathe 
in  their  sacred  river,  the  Ganges.  Seated  on  the 
deck  of  a  dinghy  with  four  men  to  row,  we  floated 
slowly  along  with  the  lazy  tide,  watching  the 
panorama  of  humanity  at  its  devotions.  Men, 
women,  and  children  of  all  ages  were  crowding 
the  ghats,  or  steps,  leading  down  into  the  water, 
performing  their  ablutions  in  the  yellow  tide 
as  a  daily  act  of  refreshment,  of  purification, 
and  of  religion;  worshipping  the  river,  basking  in 
the  sun,  filling  vessels  with  the  sacred  water  for 
purifying  purposes  at  home ;  and  finally  repairing 
to  the  Brahmans  seated  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
under  large  palm-leaf  umbrellas,  in  order  to  have 
the  distinctive  marks  of  their  castes  painted  upon 
their  shiny  foreheads ;  for  which  service  they  de- 
posited a  coin  in  the  grasping  hands  of  the  offici- 
ating priests. 

Bordering  one  side  of  the  river,  the  temples 
and  palaces  rose,  one  above  another  on  the  steep 
bank,  and  several  of  the  largest  of  these,  having 
been  undermined  by  the  water,  had  partially  sunk 
into  the  river. 

The  Dasaaswameah  Ghat  —  or  steps,  is  one  of 
the  five  chief  points  of  pilgrimage  in  the  city.  It 
derives  its  name  from  dasa,  ten, — aswa,  a  horse, 
and  meah — a  sacrifice ;  for  here,  according  to  Hindu 
tradition,  Brahma  offered  a  sacrifice  of  ten  horses. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  355 

On  this  spot  have  been  erected  ten  commem- 
orative shrines,  each  containing  an  idol.  Here  we 
saw  several  of  the  religious  devotees  called  Fakirs, 
who  live  upon  charity,  and  obtain  a  reputation  for 
sanctity  by  abstinence,  by  severe  penances,  by 
anointing  their  greasy  bodies  and  faces  with 
ashes  —  allowing  their  hair  to  grow  until  the  long 
shaggy  locks  touch  the  ground  —  and  by  assuming 
an  upstretched  position  of  the  right  arm,  which  is 
retained  until  the  limb  becomes  immovably  fixed 
in  that  attitude. 

At  the  Burning  Ghat,  are  several  slabs  set  up 
on  end  called  Suttee,  which  mark  the  spots  where 
widows  have  been  burnt  alive  on  the  funeral  pyre 
of  their  husbands  ;  but  this  custom  was  prohibited 
by  the  English  government  in  1829.  The  word 
Suttee  means  "  chaste  "  or  faithful  woman  ;  and 
these  memorials  are  held  as  objects  of  great  ven- 
eration. 

At  this  place  most  of  the  cremating  cere- 
monies take  place,  and  we  saw  seven  bodies 
consumed  in  one  day.  When  a  Hindu  is  about 
to  die,  he  is  laid  upon  the  ground  to  breathe  his 
last ;  and  a  few  hours  later,  the  body  is  placed  on 
a  bamboo  litter  with  simply  a  covering  of  thin 
cloth,  and  borne  through  the  streets  on  the  shoul- 
ders of  four  men,  chanting,  to  the  river  side. 
Arrived  at  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  the  corpse  is 
laid  on  a  pyre  of  wood,  and  more  wood  piled 
over  it.  The  nearest  relative  of  the  deceased, 


356  A    TOUR 

after  having  his  face  and  head  shaved,  and  a  bath 
in  the  river,  receives  from  a  dom  —  one  of  the 
lowest  Caste  —  a  lighted  torch  which,  after  walk- 
ing around  the  pile  five  times,  he  applies  to  the 
wood,  and  within  an  hour  or  so  the  body  is  re- 
duced to  ashes,  and  cast  into  the  river. 

Unlike  almost  every  other  people  under  the 
sun,  the  Hindus  evince  no  respect  for  their  fellow- 
beings  after  the  spirit  has  departed  from  its  frail 
tenement ;  but  go  through  the  last  rites  with  a 
seeming  indifference  strange  to  behold. 

Leaving  these  repulsive  scenes,  the  depression 
to  which  they  had  given  rise  was  changed  for  a 
sense  of  the  poetic  and  beautiful,  as  we  saw  float- 
ing past  us  the  tiny  boat  with  flower-encircled 
lights,  freighted  with  the  fate  of  the  Indian  maiden, 
who  by  the  continuance  of  the  flame  tests  the  fi- 
delity of  her  lover. 

Further  on  we  reached  the  Mosque  of  Aurung- 
Zeb,  the  bigot  and  persecutor,  who  imprisoned 
his  father  Shah  Jehan,  murdered  his  brothers,  and 
imposed  a  tax  upon  all  who  were  not  of  the  Mo- 
hammedan faith.  Its  minarets  tower  over  the 
city,  and  from  the  top  of  one  of  these,  we  ob- 
tained a  magnificent  view. 

Benares  is  not  only  the  centre  of  Hinduism, 
but  also  the  cradle  of  Buddhism.  After  six  years  of 
asceticism  and  solitude  at  Gaya,  a  town  50  miles 
south  of  Benares,  Buddha  having  experienced  his 
temptation  and  his  enlightenment  under  the  Bo- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  357 

tree,  made  his  way  to  this  city,  affirming:  "  I  am 
going  to  give  light  to  those  enshrouded  in  dark- 
ness ;  and  to  open  the  gates  of  immortality  to 
men."  The  place  where  he  taught,  once  called 
the  Deer-park,  now  Sarnath,  lies  four  miles  north 
of  Benares,  and  is  marked  by  a  large  tope 
—  a  pile  of  brick  and  stone  resembling  an  im- 
mense bee-hive,  about  120  feet  high,  and  90  feet 
in  diameter  at  the  base.  It  is  handsomely  carved, 
and  has  eight  niches  around  it  intended  as  recep- 
tacles for  life-size  statues  of  Buddha,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  contain  a  relic  of  this  great  Reformer. 

Continuing  from  here  by  rail,  we  stopped  at 
Serampore,  which  we  visited  to  see  the  temple  and 
great  idol  Juggernaut  —  a  hideous  figure  with  an 
immense  head  and  big  eyes.  Outside  of  the 
temple  is  the  car  of  Juggernaut,  one  of  the  largest 
in  India,  being  60  feet  high,  covered  with  images 
and  paintings  and  mounted  on  16  broad  wheels. 
On  top  of  this  the  idol  Juggernaut  is  placed  and 
drawn  through  the  streets  in  their  religious  pro- 
cessions;  on  which  occasions  the  fanatics  throw 
themselves  on  the  ground  before  it,  to  be  crushed 
beneath  the  wheels,  notwithstanding  the  efforts  of 
the  English  government  to  suppress  this  bar- 
barous custom. 

From  here  we  took  a  boat  to  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Ganges,  and  visited  Barrackpoor,  a  pretty 
suburban  village,  and  a  great  resort  for  Europeans. 
In  the  centre  of  a  large  garden  here,  stands  the 


A   TOUR 


summer  residence  of  the  Viceroy  of  India,  and  in 
this  section  is  cultivated  the  poppy,  the  opium 
from  which  having  been  extracted  is  shipped  from 
Calcutta  to  China. 

Darjeeling,  appropriately  called  "  the  city 
above  the  clouds,"  is  prettily  located  in  the  Him- 
alaya Mountains  8,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  It  is  surrounded  by  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
range,  12  of  them  within  line  of  vision  from  this 
point,  each  being  over  20,000  feet  high.  Mt. 
Everest,  the  highest  in  the  world,  29,002  feet  ; 
Kinchinjinga,  28,156;  and  Chamalari,  27,200 
feet,  all  located  in  Nepaul  and  Thibet,  stand  out 
like  sentinels  with  their  snowy  caps,  and  present 
a  scene  of  grandeur  unequalled  on  the  globe. 
Here  is  seen  the  thickest  crust  of  the  earth's 
surface  —  5^  miles;  casting  the  eyes  from  the 
snowy  peaks  above  the  clouds  to  the  great  ra- 
vines below  clad  in  rankest  tropical  vegetation,  one 
is  filled  with  awe  at  beholding  these  sublime  con- 
trasts of  nature. 

Here  are  seen  a  variety  of  people  —  the  Ne- 
paulese,  with  intelligent  and  pleasing  counte- 
nances, active  and  brave  to  a  degree,  but  whose 
country  Europeans  can  only  view  from  a  distance  ; 
the  Bootiers  with  almond-shaped  eyes,  high 
cheek-bones,  and  wearing  the  queue,  who  make 
use  of  a  praying  machine  —  a  toy  resembling  a 
child's  large-sized  rattle  in  which,  on  yards  of 
paper,  their  prayers  are  inscribed  ;  this  they  re- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  359 

volve  while  repeating  the  formula,  which  may  be 
translated  "Oh,  the  Jewel  on  the  Lotus!"  —  re- 
ferring to  Buddha;  and  again  other  sects  who 
rarely  wash  themselves,  but  coat  their  faces  with 
tar  to  preserve  their  sight,  and  as  a  protection  from 
the  cold. 

The  modes  of  conveyance  used  here  are  palan- 
quins —  a  kind  of  box  open  at  either  side  and  of 
sufficient  length  to  allow  one  to  recline,  borne 
by  four  coolies;  and  dandies  —  a  sort  of  recumbent 
chair  on  two  poles  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
natives. 

From  Darjeeling  to  Calcutta  the  distance  is 
250  miles,  and  going  thither  we  first  took  a  min- 
iature narrow-guage  railroad  down  the  mountain, 
whose  grade  was  a  fall  of  one  in  every  eighteen 
inches,  and  having  many  loops  and  reverse 
stations.  The  train  rounded  the  spurs  of  the  high 
knobs,  crossing  bridges  over  deep  ravines  and 
roaring  torrents,  passing  through  luxuriant  tropi- 
cal vegetation,  tree  ferns,  rhododendrons,  flowering 
creepers  and  plantations  of  tea  and  chinchona,  all 
rendering  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  railroad 
trips  of  our  experience. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  we  passed 
through  ten  miles  of  the  densest  jungle  in  India> 
infested  with  great  numbers  of  wild  elephants  and 
tigers,  and  stopped  at  a  small  station  where  the  gov- 
ernment employs  men  to  entrap  the  former  for  mili- 
tary purposes.  These  animals  are  first  driven  into 


360  A    TOUR 

corrals  by  means  of  decoy  elephants,  after  which 
the  latter  with  heavy  chains  held  in  their  trunks, 
advance  upon  the  strangers  and  beat  them  into 
submission. 

Calcutta,  the  capital  of  India,  is  situated  on 
the  Hoogly  mouth  of  the  Ganges,  100  miles  from 
the  Bay  of  Bengal,  and  with  its  suburbs,  has  a 
population  of  795,000.  Its  mid-day  sun  is  hot 
and  treacherous,  and  the  evenings  and  nights  are 
foggy  and  cool,  producing  so  unhealthy  a  climate 
that  its  deleterious  effects  have  won  for  it  the  title 
of  "  the  city  of  pale  faces." 

Old  Court-house  street,  and  Chowringhee 
Road  are  the  principal  thoroughfares,  on  which 
are  situated  the  finest  residences  and  shops; 
while  between  the  latter  and  the  river,  is  the 
Maidan  —  a  large  common,  with  several  fine 
statues,  among  which  is  the  handsome  equestrian 
one  of  Sir  James  Outram.  Here  between  the 
hours  of  5  and  6  P.  M.  may  be  seen  hundreds  of 
Europeans  and  natives  driving  out  with  from  two 
to  six  attendants  each,  attired  in  garments  more 
gaudy  than  cleanly  ;  and  congregating  around  the 
stand  in  the  lovely  Eden  garden  where  the  band 
discourses  sweet  strains. 

Government  House,  the  residence  of  the  Vice- 
roy, is  an  imposing  building  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  painted  a  bright  yellow,  and  surrounded  by 
extensive  grounds.  In  it  is  the  Council-room, 
with  the  portraits  of  Hastings  and  other  English 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  361 

notables  on  its  walls,  and  where  the  fate  of  thous- 
ands of  lives  have  hung  in  the  balance. 

The  High  Court,  Great  Eastern  Hotel,  and 
Post  Office,  are  among  the  finest  buildings  in  the 
city ;  and  near  the  latter  was  the  famous  Black 
Hole,  when  on  the  iQth  of  June,  1756,  146  Euro- 
peans were  imprisoned  by  the  Nawab  and  Mahratta 
cavalry,  in  a  room  18  feet  square,  and  123  of  the 
number  smothered  to  death. 

In  Calcutta  we  witnessed  the  opening  of  the 
great  Exposition,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Vice- 
roy, Lord  Ripon,  and  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Connaught,  and  attended  by  the  native  princes 
of  India,  who  had  come  from  all  parts  of  the  Em- 
pire. The  display  was  on  an  extensive  scale,  the 
chief  point  of  interest  centring  in  the  Oriental 
departments ;  here  were  to  be  seen  the  thrones, 
jewels,  howdahs  and  trappings  used  in  state 
ceremonials,  besides  other  valuables  loaned  by 
the  native  princes  for  this  occasion ;  the  section 
devoted  to  Burmese  exhibits  being  particularly 
interesting. 

Caligat  which  gave  the  name  to  Calcutta,  is  a 
native  village  four  miles  south  of  the  city,  on  a 
former  bed  of  the  Ganges,  amid  tanks  of  stag- 
nant water  and  tropical  vegetation.  The  legend 
runs  that  when  the  corpse  of  the  goddess  Kali, 
wife  of  Siva,  was  cut  in  pieces  by  order  of  the 
gods,  one  of  her  fingers  fell  here,  and  a  temple 
was  raised  on  the  spot. 


362  A    TOUR 

The  streets  near  which  the  temple  stands,  are 
full  of  shops  for  the  sale  of  charms,  pictures, 
and  images  of  idols ;  and  on  arriving  at  the  place 
of  worship,  we  found  sacrifices  already  taking 
place,  and  the  ground  saturated  with  blood.  This 
ceremony  occurs  every  Tuesday  and  Saturday 
mornings,  when  great  numbers  of  goats  and  buf- 
faloes are  killed ;  these  animals  are  held  by  the 
hind  legs,  their  heads  fastened  in  a  vise  and 
severed  from  the  body,  the  blood  being  caught  in 
a  vessel  and  poured  over  the  tongue  of  the  idol. 

The  Zoological  Garden  contains  some  fine 
specimens  of  animals,  and  is  well  worthy  a  visit. 
The  Botanical  Gardens,  3  miles  from  the  city, 
cover  300  acres  and  combine  the  natural  and  the 
artificial  in  perfect  harmony. 

Besides  many  rare  specimens  of  trees  and 
plants,  the  avenues  are  bordered  with  various 
species  of  palms ;  while  in  the  centre  of  the 
grounds  is  a  Banyan  tree,  the  largest  known, 
whose  hundreds  of  descending  branches  have 
taken  root  and  cover  a  circumference  of  900  feet, 
capable  of  affording  shelter  for  3,000  men. 

Opposite  the  Gardens,  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river,  is  the  palace  of  the  ex-king  of  Oude  who  is 
confined  here,  a  state  prisoner,  having  been  de- 
posed for  attempting  to  poison  the  British  agent. 
He  maintains  a  harem  of  600  women,  and  has  a 
fine  Snakery  and  Zoological  collection.  Here,  as 
in  many  other  parts  of  India,  we  saw  the  man- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  363 

ceuvring  of  pigeons  which  is  a  great  delight  and 
pastime  of  the  natives.  These  birds,  flying  in 
open  air  by  the  thousands,  were  made  to  separate 
into  sections,  deploy,  form  circles,  and  manoeuvre 
like  an  army  of  soldiers,  obeying  strictly  the  com- 
mands of  a  native  who,  standing  on  an  eminence, 
waves  a  flag  and  shouts  at  the  top  of  his  voice. 

Leaving  Calcutta  by  steamer  for  Rangoon, 
we  sailed  down  the  difficult  Hoogly  mouth  of  the 
Ganges;  while  "west  stretched  the  great  delta 
with  its  thousand  mouths,  its  intricate  net-work 
of  countless  channels  and  backwaters,  and  its 
almost  impenetrable  coast-region,  covered  with 
dense  jungles,  and  still  the  prey  of  wild  beasts, 
terrific  cyclones  and  deadly  exhalations.  Here 
land  and  water  still  struggle  for  the  mastery, 
while  unbridled  nature  laughs  at  the  feeble  efforts 
of  man  to  tame  the  jarring  elements." 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

RANGOON  :    MOULMEIN  I    MERGUIN  ARCHIPELAGO  :     PE- 
NANG:  MALACCA:  SINGAPORE. 

RANGOON  in  British  Burmah,  located  on  the  Ir- 
rawaddy  river,  28  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  sur- 
rounded by  low  paddy  fields  from  which  is  pro- 
duced large  quantities  of  rice,  shipped  to  all  parts 


364  A    TOUR 

of  the  world.  This  town  has  a  population  of 
60,000,  composed  of  Europeans,  Chinese,  and 
Burmese,  the  latter  being  of  light  yellow  com- 
plexion, slight  in  size,  quiet  in  manner,  dressing 
neatly,  and  given  to  wearing  flowers  in  their  hair. 

In  the  centre  of  the  town  rises  a  terraced  hill 
from  250  to  300  feet  high,  surrounded  by  a  moat 
that  can  be  crossed  only  by  drawbridges,  and 
beyond  this  is  a  lake.  On  top  of  this  hill  is  the 
Golden  Pagoda,  rising  to  a  height  of  300  feet, 
which  is  the  tallest  and  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able in  the  Buddhist  world,  and  is  visible  7  miles 
off  before  reaching  Rangoon ;  its  gilded  spire 
which  towers  up  far  above  the  dark  foliage  shin- 
ing in  the  bright  sunlight  like  a  fiery  meteor.  It 
is  shaped  like  a  bell,  and  surmounted  by  a  gilded 
hitee  or  umbrella,  from  the  edge  of  which  hang 
hundreds  of  small  bells  which  are  rung  by  the 
breeze.  At  the  base  of  the  Pagoda  are  numbers 
of  small  temples  and  shrines,  beautifully  carved 
and  gilded  and  adorned  with  colored  glass,  con- 
taining colossal  figures  in  brass  and  marble  of 
Buddha,  in  both  sitting  and  reclining  postures; 
while  the  entrances  are  guarded  by  stone  images 
of  elephants,  dogs,  and  other  animals,  some  of 
which  are  60  feet  in  height. 

Above  Rangoon  200  miles,  on  the  Irrawaddy, 
is  Mandalay,  the  capital  of  Burmah,  where  is  kept 
a  sacred  white  elephant  which  ranks  next  to 
royalty.  This  animal  has  a  palace  of  its  own,  a 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  365 

personal  chamberlain  and  30  courtiers  ;  besides  4 
golden  umbrellas, —  emblem  of  royalty, —  and 
large  real  and  landed  estates. 

Moulmein  which  is  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Salwin  river,  and  on  the  Gulf  of  Martaban, 
is  surrounded  by  hilly  islands  ;  the  town  itself 
amounts  to  little,  but  from  the  base  of  its 
principal  pagoda, — similar  to  the  one  described 
in  Rangoon,  standing  on  a  hill  300  feet  high,  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  expansive  views  of 
numbers  of  islands  and  knobs,  the  summits  of 
which  are  crowned  with  Buddhist  shrines. 

A  most  interesting  sight  to  us  in  Moulmein  was 
that  of  from  60  to  70  immense  elephants  at  work 
in  the  lumber  yards  and  saw-mills  carrying  huge 
logs  from  the  river,  adjusting  them  properly 
under  the  saw  to  be  cut ;  afterwards  carrying  the 
long  timbers  well  balanced  with  their  tusks  and 
trunks,  and  piling  them  together  at  a  distance 
beyond,  using  both  head  and  feet  to  arrange 
them  in  exact  uniformity  ;  every  action  betoken- 
ing their  wonderful  brute  intelligence. 

From  here,  sailing  along  the  coast  of  British 
Burmah,  we  passed  through  the  Merguin  archi- 
pelago, many  of  whose  islands  not  only  abound 
in  rich  tin  mines,  but  have  rock  caves  in  which 
are  found  the  bird-nests  that  furnish  the  delicate 
and  expensive  soup  so  much  prized  by  the  Chi- 
nese. 

At  Penang  a  town  of  50,000  inhabitants  situ- 


366  A  TOUR 

ated  on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  off  the  coast 
of  Lower  Siam,  we  went  ashore  and  spent  the 
day  visiting  its  bazaars,  and  driving  two  miles 
beyond  the  town  to  a  lovely  cascade  nestled  among 
the  hills. 

Two  days  later,  we  anchored  at  Malacca,  a 
small  town  of  no  special  importance,  except  as  a 
stopping  place  for  steamers  on  the  Malacca  coast ; 
and  the  following  day  we  steamed  into  Singapore 
harbor  at  the  extreme  south  of  the  Malay  Penin- 
sula. 

Singapore  on  an  island  at  the  south  of  Mal- 
acca, and  only  one  degree  from  the  Equator,  is  the 
capital  of  the  English  Strait  Settlements.  It  has  a 
population  of  56,000,  and  abounds  in  beautiful  gar- 
dens of  tropical  flowers  and  plants ;  and  notwith- 
standing its  proximity  to  the  Equator,  its  sea- 
breeze  renders  it  more  desirable  for  a  residence 
than  other  places  further  north.  Here  we  re- 
mained several  days  to  pass  a  warm  New  Year's, 
and  to  witness  the  out-door  sports  participated 
in  by  both  the  native  and  European  population. 
From  its  fort,  crowning  the  summit  of  a  high  hill, 
is  obtained  a  magnificent  view  of  the  beautiful 
miniature  harbor  and  adjacent  islands. 

On  this  peninsula,  but  more  particularly  in 
Siam,  is  found  the  white  elephant  which  is  more 
of  a  dirty  pink  color  than  white,  a  phenomenon 
supposed  to  be  caused  by  disease  —  a  species  of 
leprosy  ;  besides  these,  the  rhinoceros,  hippopota- 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  367 

mus  and  other  wild  animals  abound ;  here  also 
are  seen  birds  of  brilliant  plumage  and  butterflies 
of  gorgeous  hues  and  unusual  size,  while  in  the 
forests  are  teak,  eaglewood,  gum-trees,  gutta- 
percha,  bamboo,  dye-woods,  cardamom,  vanilla, 
and  all  the  spices  of  a  tropical  region. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

SAIGON  :     CHINA  SEA  :    CANTON  I     HONG-KONG  :      STRAITS 
OF.  FORMOSA  :    YELLOW  SEA. 

TAKING  the  French  steamer  from  Singapore,  a 
four  days'  sail  brought  us  to  Saigon,  the  French 
settlement  in  Cochin  China,  where  our  vessel  re- 
mained two  days  unloading  arms  and  provisions 
for  the  army  in  preparation  for  the  threatened 
war  in  Tonquin  between  France  and  China. 

Saigon  located  40  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Saigon  river,  is  a  place  of  90,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  in  the  midst  of  low  rice-fields,  where  both 
heat  and  mosquitoes  are  almost  intolerable,  and  is 
surrounded  by  several  native  villages  of  consider- 
able size. 

Tonquin,  though  a  part  of  Anam,  is  under  the 
protection  of  China;  and  its  occupation  by  the 
French  will  not  only  give  them  possession  of  its 


368  A  TOUR 

mines,  but  will  enable  them  to  penetrate  into  the 
interior  of  China. 

Five  days  continuous  travel  over  the  danger- 
ous China  Sea,  and  along  the  coast  of  Anam, 
brought  us  to  Hong-Kong,  or  Victoria,  where  we 
immediately  took  advantage  of  the  night  boat 
going  up  the  Pearl  River  to  Canton.  The  steamer, 
a  small  one,  was  manned  by  English  officers,  and 
the  cabin  was  provided  with  fire-arms  to  be  used 
in  case  of  an  uprising  or  attack  from  the  Chinese. 
This  occurrence  is  not  an  unusual  thing,  owing  to 
the  hatred  of  the  natives  to  foreigners  occasioned 
by  difficulties  with  the  English,  which  incited 
them  to  burn  the  European  quarter,  destroy  mis- 
sion churches,  and  threaten  the  lives  of  strangers 
who  enter  the  city  walls;  a  sentiment  which  is 
greatly  aggravated  by  the  present  war  in  Ton- 
quin. 

Arriving  at  Canton  early  in  the  morning,  we 
immediately  sent  for  Ah  Cum,  a  Chinese  guide, 
to  conduct  us  through  the  city:  and  procuring 
chairs,  borne  each  on  the  shoulders  of  China- 
men,—  the  usual  mode  of  conveyance,  we  set 
forth  single  file  through  the  narrow  streets  on  a 
tour  of  inspection. 

Canton  is  the  pride  of  China  from  its  being 
the  largest,  best  preserved,  and  most  flourishing 
city  of  the  Empire.  It  is  situated  on  the  Pearl 
river,  90  miles  from  Hong-Kong,  and  has  a  pop- 
ulation of  1,300,000  —  60,000  of  whom  live  in 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  369 

boats  on  the  river.  The  city  is  surrounded  by 
walls  20  feet  thick  and  40  feet  high,  entered  by 
1 8  gates,  while  a  large  portion  of  it  extends  even 
beyond  the  walls.  The  interior  of  the  city  is  di- 
vided into  districts  which  are  separated  by  gates 
that  can  be  closed  at  an  instant's  warning  in  case 
of  trouble. 

We  first  visited  that  portion  of  Canton  built  on 
the  island  of  Sha-Mien,  where  reside  the  consuls 
and  foreign  population  ;  then  crossed  to  the  native 
city  and  passed  through  its  crowded,  narrow 
streets,  which  are  from  4  to  8  feet  in  width,  and 
often  covered  over  above ;  these  present  a 
strange  but  rather  picturesque  appearance,  from 
the  array  of  board  signs,  ten  feet  in  length, 
painted  in  characters  —  in  gold,  black,  and  red  — 
indicative  of  the  name  and  occupation  of  the  in- 
mate or  proprietor;  they  are  hung  perpendicu- 
larly and  fastened  only  by  a  hook  at  the  top, 
which  in  windy  weather  must  render  pedestrianism 
somewhat  dangerous.  While  threading  our  way 
through  these  winding  streets,  we  were  followed 
by  large  crowds  of  excited  Chinese  who,  by 
their  threatening  gestures  and  language,  showed 
that  we  were  not  at  all  welcome  in  their  midst, 
and  decided  us  to  make  our  tour  of  inspection  a 
hasty  one,  as  at  each  halt  we  made  on  quitting 
our  chairs  they  pressed  upon  us  more  closely 
and  in  larger  numbers  than  we  found  agreeable. 
The  shops,  bordering  either  side  of  the  way,  are 
24 


3/0  A    TOUR 

small  and  entirely  open  at  the  front,  often  dis- 
playing handsome  goods  and  a  variety  of  manu- 
factures. Here  we  saw  the  workers  in  Jade 
stone,  tortoise-shell,  mother-of-pearl,  wood,  glass, 
silver  and  ivory.  We  also  saw  the  feathers  of  the 
kingfisher  set  into  jewelry  in  imitation  of  enamel ; 
paintings  on  rice  paper,  embroideries  in  silk ; 
opium  dens,  restaurants  in  which  dog's,  rat's  and 
cat's  meat  is  sold,  and  the  establishments  peculiar 
to  that  edible,  in  which  we  procured  the  gelatine 
from  which  the  bird's  nest  soup  is  made.  This 
delicacy,  in  its  natural  state,  is  suggestively  repul- 
sive; but  after  undergoing  certain  processes  of 
cleansing  and  clarifying,  assumes  more  inviting 
appearance,  and  is  sold  at  the  rate  of  $10  per  Ib. 

We  next  visited  the  Temple  of  Longevity ; 
the  Flowery  Pagoda,  9  stories  high  ;  the  Temple 
of  500  Buddhas,  filled  with  as  many  gilt  images 
of  Buddha  and  his  followers  ;  the  Temple  of  the 
Five  Genii,  where  in  front  of  each  image  was  a 
stone,  said  to  be  the  remains  of  a  ram  on  which 
the  spirit  rode  to  the  city  ;  and  the  Temple  of 
Confucius,  which  the  Emperor  of  China  visits 
once  annually. 

In  the  older  portion  of  Canton  is  the  palace 
of  the  Tartar  General,  around  which  were  native 
sentinels  bearing  primitive-looking  shields  made 
of  painted  straw :  here  also,  is  the  Examination 
Hall  with  its  thousands  of  stalls  or  small  rooms 
for  students  ;  and  the  Prison,  where  we  saw  num- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  371 

bers  of  men  with  cassques — a  large  square  wooden 
yoke  fastened  around  their  necks,  permitting  of 
no  possibility  of  rest  to  the  wearer ;  some  loaded 
down  with  heavy  chains,  by  means  of  which  the 
body  was  held  in  unnatural  positions  ;  and  others 
undergoing  various  torturing  punishments. 

In  the  Execution  ground,  where  on  an  average 
365  criminals  are  despatched  yearly,  we  saw 
several  barrels  full  of  human  heads  lately  severed 
from  the  body,  and  3  crosses  used  in  crucifying. 

Taking  a  boat  we  crossed  the  river  to  the 
island  of  Ho-Nan,  another  portion  of  the  city,  to 
see  its  temple,  where  are  kept  sacred  pigs  ; 
to  visit  the  tea-firing  and  ginger-preserving  es- 
tablishments ;  and  the  Flowery  boats,  whose  in- 
teriors are  finished  in  marble,  and  are  used  exclus- 
ively for  pleasure  parties. 

On  the  delta  of  the  Pearl  or  Canton  river 
250,000  people  are  said  to  pass  their  entire  lives 
on  the  water.  The  Sampan,  a  small  boat  which 
serves  as  their  floating  home,  is  fitted  up  with 
shrines  and  a  few  household  articles,  and  it  is  a 
common  occurrence  to  see  women,  with  infants 
strapped  to  their  backs,  rowing  them.  As  soon  as 
a  male  child  is  born,  a  life  preserver,  in  the  form 
of  a  gourd,  is  fastened  around  its  neck,  as  a  pre- 
caution in  case  of  its  falling  into  the  water  ;  but 
with  a  girl  no  such  measure  is  taken,  as  the  life 
of  female  infants  is  held  of  little  or  no  value.  As 
soon  as  a  child  can  walk  it  is  put  to  the  helm  or 


372  A   TOUR 

oar,  while  the  mother  manages  the  sails,  which  are 
made  of  matting.  The  Chinese  fishermen  are 
probably  the  most  venturesome  in  the  world,  and 
are  often  seen  in  small  boats  300  miles  out  at  sea, 
wearing  in  bad  weather  strange-looking  cloaks 
made  of  rice-straw  and  cocoanut-fibre,  with  straw 
hats  the  size  of  umbrellas.  Their  boats,  both 
large  and  small,  invariably  have  two  big  eyes 
painted  on  the  prow,  and  upon  being  interrogated 
upon  the  significance  of  this,  they  make  answer  : 
"  No  got  eye,  how  can  see  ?" 

The  Chinese  as  a  nation,  though  dirty  and 
superstitious,  are  industrious  and  apt;  having  for 
thousands  of  years  known  many  devices  which 
foreigners  penetrating  the  country  have  appropri- 
ated and  introduced  at  home  as  original  inven- 
tions. The  upper  classes  are  reserved  and  observ- 
ing ;  the  height  of  a  Chinaman's  ambition  being 
to  possess  a  tiny-footed  wife.  While  the  women 
are  rarely  permitted  on  the  streets,  we  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  several  whose  feet  measured 
about  4  inches  in  length ;  but  the  standard  of 
perfection  we  were  told  is  2^  inches. 

The  density  of  the  Chinese  population  ren- 
ders them  conservative,  and  opposed  to  improve- 
ments of  any  kind  that  might  be  substituted  for 
manual  labor ;  and  their  history  shows  one 
straight  unbroken  line  of  a  nation  unparalleled  in 
many  respects  by  any  other.  Wheresoever  a 
Chinaman  may  die  his  bones  are  in  course  of  time 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  373 

taken  to  China  for  final  interment ;  and  their 
opposition  to  having  a  limb  amputated,  even  in 
the  worst  state  of  fracture,  is  that  a  cripple  is  un- 
able to  make  a  living,  and  paupers  are  not 
tolerated  among  them. 

The  Chinese  religion  partakes  largely  of 
idolatry ;  the  Dragon  and  the  Tiger  figuring  ex- 
tensively in  their  mythological  legends.  Though 
Buddhism  constitutes  a  large  part  of  their  religion, 
ancestral  worship  is  probably  more  general ;  one 
of  the  rites  of  which  consists  in  sending  paper 
clothes,  money,  and  written  prayers  to  their  fore- 
fathers through  the  medium  of  fire  and  ascending 
smoke.  This  latter  religion,  the  most  ancient  in 
China,  was  revised  and  elevated  by  Confucius  525 
B.  C.,  whose  teachings  of  duty  and  morality,  in 
public  as  in  private  life,  from  the  Emperor  to  the 
serf,  have  endeared  him  to  the  people,  and  whose 
laws,  among  which  is  the  Golden  Rule :  "  Do 
unto  others  as  you  would  they  should  do  unto 
you,"  have  come  down  to  us  as  the  essence  of 
honor  and  of  happiness,  and  have  been  incorpor- 
ated into  the  Christian  religion. 

Hong-Kong,  the  most  eastern  of  the  British 
possessions,  with  a  mixed  population  of  250,000, 
composed  of  Europeans,  Americans,  Chinese, 
Hindus,  Burmese,  Malays,  and  Polynesians,  is 
situated  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pearl 
river.  The  city  is  built  at  the  base  of  a  high  hill 
on  which  are  many  beautiful  residences  with 


374  A  TOUR 

shady  and  winding  walks,  affording  fine  views  of 
the  large  harbor.  Hong-Kong  unfortunately  lies 
within  the  limits  of  the  cyclones,  during  one  of 
which,  in  1874,  1,000  houses  were  demolished, 
hundreds  of  vessels  wrecked,  and  vast  numbers 
of  lives  lost.  Here  we  passed  several  days,  visit- 
ing its  public  gardens,  witnessing  the  drill  of  the 
English  military,  and,  by  means  of  chairs,  borne 
by  four  coolies  each,  ascended  the  Peak  to  the 
Flag-staff  point  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  surround- 
ing landscape. 

On  leaving  Hong- Kong  we  were  accompanied 
by  our  Consul,  Col.  Mosby,  in  his  private  boat 
flying  the  U.  S.  flag,  as  far  as  our  steamer,  the 
"Takachio,"  of  the  Mitsu  Bishi  line,  and  after  a  five 
days'  sail  along  the  coast  of  China,  through  the 
Strait  of  Formosa  and  the  Yellow  Sea  we  reached 
Japan,  and  anchored  in  the  beautiful  harbor  of 
Nagasaki. 


CHAPTER   XXXII. 

NAGASAKI  :  INLAND  SEA  :  KOBE  :  HIOGO  :  OTSU  :  LAKE 
BIWAKO  :  KIOTO  :  OSAKA  :  YEDDO  :  KAMAKURA  : 
YOKOHAMA, 

NAGASAKI,  the  extreme  southwestern  Treaty- 
port  of  Japan,  is  a  place  of  30,000  inhabitants:  it 
occupies  a  commanding  position  at  the  head  of  a 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  375 

romantic  inlet  which  forms  a  magnificent  land- 
locked harbor ;  and  the  houses  built  on  the  side 
of  a  hill,  rising  like  an  amphitheatre,  combine  to 
render  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  of  the 
Empire. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  is  the  rocky 
island  of  Papenberg,  from  whose  summit  thou- 
sands of  Christian  martyrs  were  hurled  into  the 
sea  at  the  close  of  the  i6th  century.  A  portion 
of  the  city  is  built  on  the  artificial  island  of  De- 
shima,  where  the  Dutch  resided,  and  monopolized 
the  trade  of  Japan  for  200  years. 

Leaving  Nagasaki  our  steamer  passed  through 
the  narrow  strait  of  Shi'monoseki,  and  into 
the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan.  This  sea  whose  3,000 
islands  of  every  conceivable  size  and  form,  many 
of  which  are  crowned  with  a  shrine,  dot  the  surface 
of  the  waters,  presents  a  scene  of  rare  beauty,  and 
has  justly  won  the  reputation  of  affording  the 
most  delightful  sea-voyage  in  the  world. 

At  Kobe  which  is  the  foreign  port  of  the 
adjacent  city  of  Hiogo,  we  passed  the  day  riding 
in  yinrikiskas — a  small  two- wheeled  conveyance 
drawn  by  a  native — seeing  both  towns  and  visiting 
the  bazaars.  Here  our  consul  procured  for  us 
special  passports  to  visit  Osaka,  Kioto,  Otsu,  and 
other  places  in  the  interior,  beyond  the  Treaty 
limits. 

Starting  early  in  the  morning  we  went  the 
entire  length  of  the  railroad  to  Otsu,  which  is 


376  A  TOUR 

situated  on  Lake  Biwako.  This  lake  is  the  largest 
in  Japan,  being  50  miles  in  length,  and  20  in 
breadth,  inclosed  by  hills  on  every  side. 

In  this  section  is  raised  the  finest  tea  in  the 
Empire ;  almost  exclusively  used  by  the  Mikado, 
who  sends  a  detachment  of  soldiers  yearly  to 
guard  it  en  route  to  his  capital. 

While  camphor  and  sulphur  form  some  of  the 
exports  of  the  country,  tea  is  its  principal  source 
of  revenue.  The  shrub  from  which  it  is  derived 
grows  about  3  feet  high,  having  a  small  smooth 
leaf,  and  is  cultivated  in  small  patches,  by  the 
natives. 

The  Japanese  manufacture  of  porcelain  ware, 
and  their  work  in  wood,  ivory,  mother  of  pearl 
and  bronze,  are  of  great  delicacy  and  finish,  and 
probably  excel  those  of  every  other  country. 

Kioto,  called  the  City  of  Temples,  was  the 
ancient  religious  capital  of  Japan,  and  contains 
over  100  Shinto,  and  900  Buddhist  temples,  be- 
sides numbers  of  shrines,  tombs  and  palaces. 
The  city,  which  has  a  population  of  300,000, 
covers  a  large  area  of  ground,  and  while  the  tem- 
ples and  tea-houses  or  restaurants  are  generally 
built  on  the  hill-side,  the  city  is  on  the  low 
ground,  and  extends  along  the  banks  of  the  river 
Yodo. 

The  houses  are,  as  a  rule,  from  one  to  one  and 
a  half  stories  high,  and  are  built  of  light  wood  or 
bamboo,  with  thin  paper  walls  which  keep  out 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  3/7 

neither  cold  nor  heat,  and  are  generally  of  such 
transparent  texture,  that  by  candle-light  the 
movements  of  the  occupants  are  distinctly  visible 
from  the  outside.  The  walls  and  partitions  are 
nothing  more  than  sliding  screens  of  paper,  which 
afford  but  slight  shelter  from  the  wind ;  and  strict 
privacy  is  out  of  the  question  as  an  intruder  may 
enter  from  any  quarter. 

At  night  the  streets  present  a  singular  appear- 
ance, each  house  being  lighted  by  a  square  paper 
lantern  bearing  the  number  of  the  house,  and  the 
names  of  the  occupants.  Every  individual,  after 
dark,  is  compelled  to  carry  a  paper  lantern  in  his 
hand  or  attached  to  his  Jinrikisha,  and  these  often 
igniting,  with  the  frail  combustible  materials  of  the 
buildings,  cause  frequent  conflagrations.  The 
winters  in  Japan  are  severe,  and  the  natives  have 
a  cold  and  pinched  appearance,  braziers  being  the 
only  means  by  which  they  warm  themselves. 

We  visited  the  Temple  of  Gion,  with  its  red- 
painted  gates,  on  each  side  of  which  were  sentinel 
figures  with  terrifying  expression ;  and  the 
Chionin  Temple,  probably  the  most  imposing, 
with  tier  upon  tier  of  stone  steps  leading  up  to  it. 
At  the  uppermost  shrine  stands  the  old  Kioto 
bell,  and  surrounding  it  are  the  tombs  of  the 
Shoguns,  or  former  military  rulers  of  the  country. 
The  Temple  of  Kurodani,  with  its  terraced  ceme- 
tery of  curious  tombs  of  bronze  and  stone,  was  a 
sight  well  worth  a  visit.  The  Temple  of  Sanjus- 


A   TOUR 


angendo  —  or  33,333  idols,  —  now  contains,  how- 
ever, about  1,500  life-size  wooden-gilt  images, 
and  in  a  shrine  to  the  left  is  the  wooden  figure  of 
Dai-Butsu,  or  Great  Buddha,  60  feet  in  height, 
and  seated  on  the  lotus  flower;  a  former  one  of 
bronze  having  been  melted  down  and  coined  into 
money.  The  Temple  of  Noshi  Honganji  belongs 
to  the  Monto  sect,  and  is  considered  the  largest 
in  Japan  ;  it  is  adorned  with  gilded  panels,  paint- 
ings, and  carved  wood.  At  the  Kitano  Temple 
we  saw  numbers  of  people,  young  and  old,  racing 
madly  around  the  building;  a  hundred  rounds 
being  their  allotted  penance  imposed  by  the 
priest,  who  presented  them  at  each  circuit  with  a 
bamboo  stick  as  evidence  of  the  accomplishment 
of  their  duty.  The  Minizuka  is  a  monument  of 
stone  built  over  the  ears  and  noses  of  the  enemy 
killed  by  the  Japanese  in  the  Corean  war.  The 
Golden  Temple,  in  the  garden  of  which  is  a  large 
cedar  tree  trained  to  resemble  a  full-rigged  ship, 
and  the  Imperial  Palace,  are  other  objects  of 
interest  in  Kioto. 

At  dusk  we  visited  several  tea-houses  to  test 
the  native  beverage  and  to  witness  the  singing 
and  dancing  of  the  Japanese  girls;  and  at  night 
went  to  the  Bazaar  quarter,  where  the  shops  were 
brilliantly  illuminated,  and  various  kinds  of  amuse- 
ments in  progress. 

In  one  theatre  we  witnessed  the  cleverest  of 
acrobatic  performances.  In  a  concert  hall  a  girl- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  379 

performer  was  seated  on  a  circular,  revolving  plat- 
form, and  as  her  song  ended,  a  sudden  rotation 
of  the  section  she  occupied  removed  her  from 
view,  and  substituted  another  in  her  place. 
Occasionally  as  the  performance  progressed  the 
appreciation  of  one  or  other  among  the  audience 
was  manifested  by  the  throwing  of  a  handkerchief 
or  scarf  to  the  favorite  singer,  who  responded  by 
descending  into  the  auditorium  and  spending  a 
few  moments  in  conversation  with  her  admirer. 

At  the  Drama  theatre  the  stage  not  only 
occupied  one  end  of  the  building,  but  extended 
along  the  sides  of  the  walls.  Here  we  also  wit- 
nessed some  curious  native  customs.  In  lieu  of 
our  modern  calcium  lights,  a  supernumerary  held 
a  long  pole  at  the  end  of  which  was  a 
candle  serving  to  light  up  the  hideous  facial  ex- 
pression of  the  actor  ;  in  place  of  our  elegantly 
appointed  stage,  the  performer  was  followed  about 
by  a  man  carrying  a  low  stool  ready  for  use ;  in- 
stead of  the  shifting  of  scenes,  a  change  was 
indicated  by  the  striking  together  of  two  wooden 
blocks ;  and  when  in  tragedy,  the  hero  of  a  piece 
died,  a  black  cloth  was  held  before  him  while  he 
rose  and  left  the  stage,  his  nether  extremities 
being  plainly  visible  below  it.  The  orchestra  was 
composed  of  men  playing  on  native  instruments, 
while  others  chanted  with  great  emphasis  the 
argument  of  the  play.  The  audience  occupied 
cushions  on  the  floor,  which  was  divided  off  by 


380  A    TOUR 

low  partitions,  with  small  braziers  before  them. 
The  Japanese  play  begins  in  the  morning  and 
lasts  until  the  midnight  following ;  the  price  of 
admission  being  only  from  5  to  10  cents. 

Osaka,  which  has  a  population  of  280,000, 
and  next  to  Yeddo,  the  largest  city  of  the  Em- 
pire, is  called  the  Queen  City,  or  Venice  of  the 
East,  from  its  3,500  bridges,  and  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  intersected  by  canals. 

On  the  Ajikawa  river,  which  flows  through 
the  centre  of  the  city,  is  located  its  strong  Castle 
surrounded  by  walls  and  moats,  and  erected  in 
1538  by  the  famous  Shogun  Tai-Ko-Sama. 

Returning  from  here  by  the  same  route  to 
Kobe  we  resumed  the  steamer  for  a  trip  of  36 
hours'  duration  to  Yokohama,  and  from  thence 
by  rail  to  Yeddo. 

Tokio,  or  Yeddo,  the  present  capital  of  Japan 
and  the  residence  of  the  Mikado  or  Emperor,  is 
situated  on  the  Todagawa  or  Ogava  River,  and 
covers  an  area  of  36  square  miles,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  600,000  inhabitants.  Its  general  appear- 
ance is  that  of  other  Japanese  cities,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  or  two  streets  on  which  are 
modern-built  houses  and  horse-cars,  showing  the 
inroad  of  European  civilization,  which  has  been  in- 
troduced since  this  city  has  become  a  Treaty-port. 
The  Castle  occupies  a  commanding  position  on 
a  hill,  and  has  3  massive  walls,  one  beyond  the 
other,  with  a  moat  filled  with  water  outside  of 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  381 

each.  Within  the  inclosure  is  the  Fukiage,  or 
Imperial  garden,  which  covers  several  acres ;  and 
here  stood  the  Imperial  palace,  destroyed  in  1855 
by  a  conflagration,  which  burnt  5,000  houses  in 
Yeddo.  From  this  point  we  had  the  best  view  of 
the  city,  stretching  with  its  suburban  towns  and 
numerous  temples  far  and  wide. 

We  next  visited  a  palace  of  one  of  the  Daimios, 
which  the  present  Mikado  occupies  until  the  re- 
building of  the  Imperial  residence ;  and  the 
ancient  temple  of  Imanuon  one  of  the  most  vene- 
rated and  frequented  in  Japan.  On  either  side  of 
its  entrance  were  two  large  idols,  before  which 
were  hung  numbers  of  sandals,  the  offerings  of 
those  whose  diseased  feet  had  been  miraculously 
cured ;  while  clinging  to  their  faces  and  bodies 
were  numberless  spit-balls  which  were  nothing 
less  than  written  prayers  thrown  at  the  idol ;  the 
superstitious  belief  being  that  if  they  adhered, 
their  prayers  were  accepted,  but  if  otherwise, 
that  they  were  rejected.  Within  the  temple  is  a 
wooden  idol  whose  features  are  worn  smooth  by 
the  manipulations  of  the  devotees,  who  believing 
in  its  curative  powers,  touch  first  the  seat  of  their 
own  affliction  and  then  the  corresponding  portion 
of  the  idol.  Surrounding  the  temple  are  various 
shows,  which  give  it  more  the  appearance  of  a 
place  of  amusement  than  of  worship,  and  a  garden 
filled  with  plants  trained  in  the  form  of  men  and 
animals,  a  peculiarity  of  Japanese  horticulture. 


382  A   TOUR 

At  Yueno,  a  suburban  town  of  Yeddo,  is  a 
park  overlooking  the  lake,  containing  a  bronze 
statue  of  Buddha;  and  here  are  buried  the  five 
wives  of  the  Shoguns,  in  tombs  richly  ornamented 
in  lacquer  and  wood  carvings,  and  surrounded  bv 
stone  lanterns. 

Tn  the  Zoological  Gardens  and  Museums  near 
by  are  specimens  of  animals  and  of  Japanese  art; 
and  birds  of  fine  plumage,  among  the  most  won- 
derful of  which  are  cocks,  of  the  game  species, 
with  tail  feathers  measuring  30  feet  in  length. 

Surrounding  the  Senga  Kuyi,  or  Hill  Spring 
temple,  is  the  celebrated  cemetery  where  are 
buried  the  47  Ronins  whose  devotion  and  patriot- 
ism form  a  prominent  part  of  Japanese  history. 

The  temples  and  tombs  of  Shiba,  with  prob- 
ably the  exception  of  those  at  Nikko,  are  con- 
sidered the  finest  in  Japan  ;  and  though  small  in 
size,  are  remarkable  for  their  richness  and  fine 
carving.  These  temples  which  are  entirely  of 
wood,  have  highly  polished  black  lacquered  floors, 
with  walls  and  shrines  of  the  same  material  in 
gold  and  red ;  the  ceilings  are  in  arabesques  of 
remarkable  beauty ;  and  the  wood  carvings  of 
birds  and  animals  are  truly  wonderful.  Outside 
of,  and  surrounding  each  temple,  are  numbers  of 
stone  and  bronze  lanterns  5  feet  in  height,  which 
are  conspicuous  adjuncts  of  the  Japanese  form  of 
worship. 

Returning  to  Yokohama,  we  took  Jinrikishas 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  383 

drawn  by  two  natives  each,  in  tandem  style,  and 
travelled  15  miles  into  the  country,  going  at  the 
rate  of  5  miles  an  hour,  passing  through  small 
villages  and  rice-fields,  with  Mount  Fujiyama, 
the  sacred  landmark  of  Japan  towering  before  us, 
to  the  town  of  Kamakura,  which  was  the  capital 
of  Japan  in  the  I2th  century.  Near  this  village, 
among  the  trees,  is  the  colossal  bronze  statue  of 
Dia-Butsu,  or  Great  Buddha ;  this  figure  is  over 
100  feet  in  height,  represented,  as  usual,  seated 
upon  a  lotus  flower,  and  within  it  is  a  shrine. 
Tourists  ascend  it  from  the  outside  by  means  of  a 
ladder;  the  thumb  alone  being  of  sufficient  size 
to  offer  a  convenient  seat.  This  statue  was 
cast  over  600  years  ago,  and  yet  stands  as  a  mon- 
ument of  the  past. 

Returning  by  the  same  route  and  conveyance 
to  Yokohama  we  passed  several  days  in  the  latter 
city  making  purchases  of  old  Satsuma  china,  and 
wooden  panels  with  figures  of  mother-of-pearl 
and  ivory;  and  at  night  visited  the  tea-houses 
which  are  its  principal  attractions. 

Much  has  been  said  of  the  beauty  of  Japan, 
of  the  elegance  of  its  temples  and  of  the  polite- 
ness of  the  people  Although  they  have  but 
little  to  learn  of  agricultural  science,  the  land 
showing  evidences  of  a  high  degree  of  cultivation, 
and  while  here  and  there  one  sees  pretty  bits  of 
scenery,  Japan  does  not  compare  on  the  whole 
with  many  other  countries  in  point  of  landscape. 


384  A    TOUR 

The  religion  which  was  almost  entirely  Buddhist 
is  rapidly  merging  into  Shinto  —  the  religion  of 
the  court,  and  the  temples  although  rich  in  wood- 
carving  and  polished  lacquer  are  small  in  dimen- 
sions, and  not  as  grand  and  imposing  as  those  of 
India  and  British  Burmah.  The  rich  and  pic- 
turesque native  costume  is  rapidly  changing  into 
that  of  the  European  ;  which  the  Japanese  adopt, 
together  with  an  imitation  of  foreign  manners, 
and  often  with  ludicrous  effect ;  while  the  carry- 
ing of  two  swords  —  a  long  one  for  defense,  and 
a  short  one  for  hari-kari,  or  self-disembowel- 
ment  —  has  become  almost  obsolete. 

In  the  time  of  the  Daimios,  or  feudal  lords, 
a  title  which  now  no  longer  exists,  the  Japanese 
were  exceedingly  polite  and  obsequious,  the  lower 
grades  prostrating  themselves  when  addressing  a 
superior,  and  serving  them  on  bended  knee ;  but 
the  innovations  introduced  with  the  advent  of  the 
foreign  element  have  to  some  ex'te'nt  modified 
the  distinctions  of  rank ;  and  the  lower  classes 
have,  in  the  reaction,  become  indifferent  and  self- 
assertive. 

Leaving  Yokohama  by  the  Steamship  Oceanic, 
of  the  Occidental  and  Oriental  line,  we  were  17 
days  crossing  the  Pacific  Ocean,  a  distance  of 
4,600  miles  to  San  Francisco. 

The  most  notable  occurrence  of  the  voyage 
was  the  crossing  of  the  line,  or  180°  parallel  of 
longitude  from  Greenwich,  from  which  our  steamer 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  385 

reckoned ;  but  as  we  had  been  travelling  from 
west  to  east,  we  had  gained  about  24  hours,  and 
in  order  to  have  the  day  of  the  week  and  month 
correspond  to  that  of  San  Francisco,  were  com- 
pelled to  insert  an  extra  day ;  thus  giving  us  two 
Sundays  in  succession,  both  dating  February  loth, 
1884. 


CHAPTER   XXXIII. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  :  NAPA  VALLEY  :  PETRIFIED  FOREST ! 
GEYSERS :  SANTA  CRUZ :  MONTEREY :  SANTA  BAR- 
BARA :  LOS  ANGELES  I  MARIPOSA  BIG  TREES  :  YOSEM- 
ITE  VALLEY  :  CALAVERAS  BIG  TREES  :  SACRAMENTO  : 
VIRGINIA  CITY  :  LAKE  TAHOE  :  PUGET  SOUND  : 
PORTLAND  I  COLUMBIA  RIVER  :  YELLOWSTONE  PARK  I 
SALT  LAKE  CITY  !  MT.  OF  THE  HOLY  CROSS  :  PIKE*S 
PEAK  :  DENVER  :  GREENBRIAR  WHITE  SULPHUR 

SPRINGS:    LEXINGTON:    NATURAL  BRIDGE  :    LURAY: 
CHARLESTOWN  :  HARPERS  FERRY. 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  the  extreme  western  city  of 
the  United  States  of  America,  and  the  most  im- 
portant place  on  the  Pacific  coast,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  250,000  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the 
end  of  a  narrow  peninsula  six  miles  wide,  one 
side  of  which  is  washed  by  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
and  the  other  by  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  one 
of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world,  where  the 

25 


386  A  TOUR 

combined  fleets  of  the  globe  might  ride  at  anchor 
in  safety  and  with  abundance  of  room. 

The  Golden  Gate,  which  is  the  only  entrance 
for  vessels  to  pass  into  this  harbor,  is  a  narrow 
strait  of  deep  water  one  mile  in  width,  and  the 
forts  on  either  side  so  completely  command  it 
that  the  entrance  of  a  ship  could  readily  be  pre- 
vented. The  narrowness  of  this  passage,  cut 
through  high  hills,  and  the  great  depth  of  water, 
give  it  an  artificial  appearance,  and  it  is  supposed 
by  many  to  have  been  caused  by  earthquakes, 
which  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in  this  section. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  number  of  sand  hills, 
many  of  its  streets  being  so  steep  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  drive  up  the  ascent  with  horses  ;  but 
its  system  of  surface  railroads,  propelled  by  cable 
or  wire  ropes  laid  underground,  is  not  only  very 
general  but  complete  in  every  detail,  ascending 
and  descending  the  steepest  grades  with  rapidity 
and  safety. 

San  Francisco  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
wealthiest  cities  in  the  world  in  proportion  to  its 
population  and  age,  having  been  incorporated  in 
1850.  Those  who  have  been  successful  on 
this  coast,  whether  in  gold  or  silver  mines,  rail- 
roads or  real  estate,  have  as  a  general  thing, 
located  here,  and  built  palatial  residences,  many 
of  which  have  cost  millions  of  dollars ;  while  its 
public  buildings,  theatres,  and  hotels  compare 
favorably  with  those  of  any  on  the  globe. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  387 

The  main  artery  and  business  thoroughfare  of 
the  city  is  Market  street,  along  which  are  located 
the  principal  stores  and  public  buildings,  includ- 
ing the  Palace  Hotel,  the  largest  caravansary  in 
the  world,  accommodating  over  2,000  guests ;  the 
Baldwin  Hotel,  comprising  the  prettiest  theatre  in 
the  city ;  and  the  Odd  Fellows'  and  City  Halls, 
besides  many  other  imposing  structures. 

Driving  through  this  broad  and  busy  thor- 
oughfare, we  stopped  at  Woodward's  Gardens, 
the  finest  public  resort  of  the  kind  on  this  coast, 
comprising  within  its  beautiful  grounds  statuary, 
miniature  lakes,  and  tropical  plants ;  while  its  art 
gallery,  conservatories,  museums,  aquarium, 
sealery,  aviary,  and  zoological  collections  are  as 
complete  in  detail  as  any  on  this  continent. 

Continuing  from  here  to  the  Golden  Gate 
Park  with  its  magnificent  conservatory,  we  drove 
through  its  broad  avenues,  thronged  with  stylish 
equipages,  to  the  beach,  where  from  the  Cliff 
House  verandah  we  were  entertained  watching 
the  sea-lions  upon  the  adjacent  rocks,  some  lying 
full  length  sunning  their  huge  proportions,  others 
gambolling  in  the  water  and  uttering  sounds 
resembling  the  barking  of  dogs. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  Chinese  quar- 
ter, where  crowded  into  four  squares  are  some 
40,000  Celestials ;  and  in  visiting  its  Joss-houses, 
theatres,  and  opium-dens,  one  gets  a  good  idea 
of  the  habits  and  customs  of  this  race  of  people. 


388  A   TOUR 

The  city  is  healthy,  owing  to  the  strong 
southerly  winds  ;  and  although  the  summer  fogs 
are  objectionable,  the  climate  is  so  equable  that  a 
light  over-coat  is  comfortable  the  year  round. 

The  suburban  towns  of  Oakland,  Alameda, 
Saucelito,  and  San  Rafael  are  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  bay,  connected  with  San  Francisco 
by  ferry,  and  contain  many  handsome  resi- 
dences. 

Taking  boat  and  rail  a  distance  of  100  miles 
north,  and  passing  through  the  beautiful  and  pro- 
ductive Napa  Valley,  where  are  located  the  Soda, 
and  White  Sulphur  Springs,  we  stopped  at  Calis- 
toga,  and  drove  5  miles  to  the  Petrified  Forest, 
in  which  are  some  100  prostrate  petrified  trees  ; 
then  staging  for  several  hours  over  mountains  and 
through  romantic  ravines,  we  arrived  at  the 
Devil's  Canon,  where  are  located  the  Geyser 
Springs.  These  wonders  of  nature  in  the  midst 
of  a  ravine,  consist  of  a  series  of  boiling  and  cold 
springs  of  black,  yellow,  white,  and  red  water ; 
some  of  which  bubble  up  and  send  forth  steam, 
hot  water  and  gravel  high  in  the  air. 

The  favorite  and  most  accessible  sea-side 
resorts  are  Santa  Cruz  and  Monterey ;  the 
former  having  magnificent  surf-bathing,  while  the 
latter  has  an  extensive  and  delightful  hotel  called 
the  Del  Monte,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  large 
park,  containing  a  thick  growth  of  cedars  and 
tropical  plants  and  flowers,  with  artificial  lakes 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  389 

and  fountains.  Here  are  to  be  found  entertain- 
ments of  every  conceivable  variety — lawn-tennis, 
croquet,  bowling,  boating,  and  driving  —  the  most 
popular  road  being  a  twelve-mile  drive  that  inter- 
sects the  forest  and  skirts  the  coast,  affording 
magnificent  views  of  the  ocean.  One  of  the 
principal  attractions  of  Del  Monte  is  the  four  im- 
mense swimming-tanks  inclosed  under  a  glass 
roof,  and  filled  with  salt  water  heated  at  different 
temperatures  to  accommodate  all  ages  and  both 
sexes. 

Leaving  Monterey  by  steamer  we  followed 
the  coast  a  distance  of  275  miles  south  to  Santa 
Barbara,  a  town  of  6,000  inhabitants,  lying  in  a 
sheltered  nook,  shut  in  by  high  mountain  ranges, 
and  enjoying  a  dry  and  mild  climate.  Its  popu- 
lation is  largely  composed  of  people  from  the 
Eastern  States  seeking  health  and  a  warm  climate, 
and  the  place  has  a  select  and  refined  society. 

Continuing  our  journey  by  steamer  75  miles 
further  south  we  arrived  at  Los  Angeles,  or  "  city 
of  Angels,"  a  prosperous  and  flourishing  town, 
and  whose  suburban  places  of  resort  such  as  Santa 
Monica,  Pasadena,  and  Sierra  Madre  Villa  located 
among  the  vineyards,  orange,  lemon  and  olive 
groves,  which  thrive  luxuriantly  in  this  section, 
render  a  winter  sojourn  delightful,  and  are  fre- 
quented by  large  numbers  of  Eastern  visitors. 

Returning  north  from  Los  Angeles  by  rail  we 
stopped  at  Madeira,  where  we  took  stage,  and 


390  A    TOUR 

after  a  long  day's  ride  over  the  mountains  arrived 
at  Clark's  station. 

Near  this  are  the  Mariposa  Big  Trees,  a  species 
of  red  cedar,  probably  the  largest  in  the  world. 
The  greatest  of  these  monsters  of  the  forest  which 
is  now  fallen  is  said  to  have  measured  90  feet  in 
circumference,  and  400  feet  in  height,  with  bark 
about  four  feet  in  thickness ;  the  Monarch,  one  of 
the  tallest  standing,  is  nearly  300  feet  high ;  and 
the  Wyoming  is  of  such  size  as  to  allow  of  a  six- 
horse  stage  passing  through  an  archway  formed 
by  a  hole  cut  in  the  trunk  of  the  tree. 

Resuming  our  journey  by  stage,  the  following 
day  at  noon  we  reached  the  great  Yosemite  Val- 
ley, and  halted  at  Inspiration  Point  to  view  the 
grand  and  wonderful  scene  before  us.  This  val- 
ley is  6  miles  long  by  J^  wide,  with  rocks  tower- 
ing up  on  every  side  almost  perpendicularly  from 
3,000  to  6,OOO  feet  in  height;  with  torrents  and 
river  cascades  falling  from  their  summits,  and  al- 
most lost  in  spray  before  reaching  the  valley  below. 

After  locating  ourselves  at  Hutching's  Hotel, 
we  procured  both  mules  and  guide,  and  spent 
three  days  riding  up  the  precipitous  trails  to  the 
various  points  for  views ;  the  finest  of  which  are 
obtained  from  Glacier  Point,  Clouds'  Rest,  Sen- 
tinel Dome,  The  Three  Brothers  and  El  Capitan ; 
while  the  Yosemite,  Bridal  Veil,  Nevada,  and 
Vernal  Falls,  are  the  grandest  and  most  beautiful 
features  of  the  Yosemite. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  391 

Mirror  Lake  at  the  end  of  the  Valley  whose 
placid  waters  reflect  the  precipitous  foliage- 
crowned  mountains  which  border  it,  well  repaid 
an  early  visit,  when  to  its  usual  beauty  was  added 
that  of  the  sun  rising  in  slow  majesty  above  the 
mountain  tops  and  mirroring  itself  in  the  calm 
waters  at  their  base. 

Leaving  the  Yosemite  by  stage  over  another 
route  we  visited  the  Calaveras  Grove  of  Big 
Trees,  similar  to  those  just  mentioned,  the  prin- 
cipal feature,  however,  being  one  which  it  took 
five  men  with  pump-augers  25  days  to  cut  down, 
and  the  surface  of  whose  stump  has  been  con- 
verted into  a  ball-room  where  32  couples  have 
danced  at  one  time. 

Resuming  the  rail  again  at  Stockton  passing 
on  the  way  Sacramento,  the  capital  of  California, 
numerous  placer  gold-mines  where  whole  moun- 
tains were  being  washed  away  by  means  of  hy- 
draulic power,  the  beautiful  Blue  Canon  with  its 
numerous  points  of  interest,  and  after  rounding 
Cape  Horn,  from  whose  dizzy  heights  one  gazes 
down  awe  struck  into  the  depths  below,  we 
reached  Reno. 

Here  changing  trains,  we  passed  through 
Carson,  the  capital  of  Nevada,  and  ascended  the 
mountain  to  the  great  silver  quartz  mining  dis- 
trict of  Virginia  City. 

By  special  invitation  from  one  of  the  "  Bo- 
nanza kings  "  we  visited  the  Consolidated  Virginia 


392  A   TOUR 

and  California  mines.  Ladies  as  well  as  gentle- 
men donning  the  ordinary  flannel  outfit  worn  by 
miners,  and  each  carrying  a  lantern,  we  stepped 
upon  the  cage  —  or  elevator,  and  sped  with  the 
rapidity  of  lightning  down  to  the  1,600  foot  level. 
Here  we  saw  some  of  the  richest  silver  quartz  de- 
posits ever  discovered ;  and  miners  stripped  to 
the  waist,  the  perspiration  streaming  from  every 
pore,  working  in  relays ;  the  heat  being  so  intense 
that  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  continue  their 
labor  unremittingly  for  any  length  of  time.  The 
tunnels  in  these  subterranean  regions  extend  in 
every  direction,  and  are  lighted  with  thousands  of 
candles,  which 'with  the  railroads,  drills  and  other 
machinery  at  work,  present  the  animated  appear- 
ance of  an  underground  city. 

From,  here  we  visited  Lake  Tahoe,  a  lovely 
body  of  deep  clear  water,  25  miles  in  length,  and 
10  in  width,  located  among  the  snow-capped 
peaks  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  6,000 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  where  we  spent  the  time 
delightfully,  hunting,  rowing,  and  fishing. 

Returning  to  San  Francisco  we  took  rail  and 
stage  to  Portland,  Oregon,  stopping  en  route  at 
Sissons,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Shasta,  and  thence 
through  the  romantic  Puget  Sound,  sailing  among 
its  many  islands.  We  then  continued  through  the 
Columbia  River,  which  teems  with  salmon  and 
other  fine  fish,  and  on  either  side  of  which  are 
rocky  cliffs  and  beautiful  cascades  to  the  Dalles ; 


AROUND    THE   WORLD.  393 

where  we  joined  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  and 
journeyed  east  as  far  as  Livingston,  where  a  branch 
railway  and  stage  a  distance  of  60  miles  south, 
brought  us  to  the  National  Yellowstone  Park,  in 
the  northwest  corner  of  Wyoming  Territory. 

This  Park  which  comprises  3,575  square  miles, 
and  is  more  than  6,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  embraces  not  only  the  grandest  of  scenery 
but  the  most  marvellous  freaks  of  nature ;  here 
are  probably  50  geysers  that  throw  a  column  of 
water  to  a  height  of  from  50  to  250  feet  each,  and 
5,000  springs  depositing  lime  and  silica,  around 
their  borders  in  elaborate  ornamentation  and  in  a 
variety  of  colors.  The  Yellowstone  Lake  with 
an  altitude  of  7,800  feet,  sends  forth  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  which  after  making  a  number  of 
beautiful  falls,  cuts  its  way  for  20  miles  through 
the  almost  solid  rock  called  the  Grand  Canon, 
which  is  1,500  feet  deep,  and  only  500  yards 
wide ;  and  remarkable  for  the  variety  of  tints  in 
its  formation. 

The  mountain  range  which  hems  in  this  val- 
ley on  every  side  rises  to  a  height  of  12,000  feet, 
and  its  numerous  mud  volcanoes  show  that  this 
entire  region  was  at  a  comparatively  recent  period 
the  scene  of  remarkable  volcanic  activity. 

Continuing  our  journey  southward  we  stopped 
at  Salt  Lake  City,  or  Zion,  prettily  situated 
near  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  and  on  a  gradual 
slope  bordering  the  River  Jordan.  This  is  the 


394  A  TOUR 

residence  and  headquarters  of  the  President  and 
Saints  who  govern  the  Mormon  world,  uphold 
polygamy,  and  exact  the  payment  of  tithes  as  in 
olden  times.  While  the  Mormons  as  a  class  are 
very  ignorant,  the  city  is  rapidly  growing,  owing 
to  its  charming  situation,  good  climate,  and  adja- 
cent rich  mines. 

Its  great  Tabernacle  seating  15,000  people, 
with  dome-shaped  roof,  and  containing  an  im- 
mense organ,  together  with  the  Temple  and  As- 
sembly Hall  stand  out  as  prominent  landmarks  of 
the  place. 

Proceeding  from  here  along  the  Denver  and 
Rio  Grande  R.  R.  we  saw  in  the  distance  the 
Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross,  so  called  from  a  ra- 
vine about  40  feet  deep  at  its  summit,  forming 
a  perfect  cross,  which  is  filled  with  snow  the  year 
round,  and  is  so  prominent  as  to  be  visible  So 
miles  distant. 

We  passed  through  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Arkansas,  a  narrow  defile  with  perpendicular 
walls  of  rock  on  each  side,  rising  to  a  height  of 
3,OOO  feet ;  while  the  railroad  bed  and  bridges  are 
suspended  from  the  rock  above,  so  as  to  enable 
the  trains  to  pass  over  and  along  the  rushing  tor- 
rents that  flow  through  it.  Further  on  we  passed 
Pike's  Peak,  14,300  feet  high,  the  mountain  which 
created  such  great  excitement  several  years  ago, 
on  account  of  its  gold  deposits;  and  at  the  foot  of 
which  are  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  a  curious  up- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  395 

heaval  and  washing  of  rocks ;  and  Manitou 
Springs,  where  are  to  be  found  both  soda  and 
iron  waters ;  and  which  is  so  much  frequented  as 
to  be  called  the  "Saratoga  of  the  Far  West." 

At  Denver,  the  capital  of  Colorado,  which  is 
a  well-built  city  with  50,000  inhabitants,  we 
stopped  over  a  day,  and  then  continued  our  jour- 
ney, changing  cars  at  Council  Bluffs  after  crossing 
the  Missouri  River,  and  at  Davenport  viewed  the 
Mississippi,  called  from  its  great  length  the 
"Father  of  Rivers." 

Chicago,  situated  on  Lake  Michigan  in  Illi- 
nois, with  a  population  of  600,000  and  the  most 
important  city  of  the  West,  is  noted  for  its  mag- 
nificent business  houses,  and  fine  residences, 
which  are  not  surpassed  anywhere  in  the  world. 
The  enterprise  of  its  people  is  proverbial ;  as  was 
evidenced  by  the  quickness  and  solidity  with 
which  the  city  was  rebuilt,  when  destroyed  by  the 
great  fire  of  1871,  which  consumed  17,450  build- 
ings, covering  an  area  of  3^  square  miles. 
Chicago  is  centrally  located  in  the  United  States, 
has  numerous  fine  hotels,  and  is  a  great  railroad 
centre ;  these  advantages  have  caused  it  to  be 
selected  of  late  years  as  a  place  of  assembly  for 
national  delegations.  Its  parks  and  boulevards, 
especially  those  bordering  on  the  lake,  are  partic- 
ularly fine ;  and  here  the  driving  can  be  seen  of 
an  afternoon  while  enjoying  the  refreshing  breeze 
from  the  water. 


396  A  TOUR 

From  Chicago  we  journeyed  east,  passing 
through  Indianapolis,  the  capital  of  Indiana; 
crossed  the  Ohio  River  at  Louisville,  and  passed 
through  the  Blue  grass  regions  of  Kentucky,  to 
the  Greenbriar  White  Sulphur  Springs  of  West 
Virginia.  This  fashionable  resort  is  located  in  a 
basin  surrounded  by  mountains ;  the  Springs  and 
large  Hotel  being  situated  in  the  centre  of  the 
grounds  and  completely  encircled  by  cottages, 
while  morning,  noon,  and  night,  there  is  a  round 
of  gaiety,  and  dancing  to  the  strains  of  a  delight- 
ful band  of  music. 

At  Lexington  we  stopped  to  visit  the  two 
great  colleges  of  the  South  ;  the  Virginia  Military 
Institute,  and  the  Washington-Lee  University;  and 
to  see  the  graves  of  Virginia's  two  noblest  sons 
and  greatest  generals,  Robert  E.  Lee  and  T.  J. 
(Stonewall)  Jackson.  In  a  memorial  chapel,  in 
the  grounds  of  the  Washington-Lee  University,  is 
a  life-size  recumbent  figure  of  Gen.  Lee  dressed 
in  full  uniform,  with  his  sword  beside  him,  cut 
from  the  purest  of  white  marble ;  a  magnificent 
piece  of  work,  and  a  life-like  portrait. 

The  Natural  Bridge  of  Virginia  is  a  sight  well 
worth  travelling  thousands  of  miles  to  see.  It  is 
a  solid  arch  of  rock  200  feet  high  and  90  feet 
wide  affording  a  safe  roadway  over  a  deep  chasm 
which  cannot  be  crossed  for  miles  above  or  below; 
while  beneath  the  bridge  flows  a  rippling  stream 
of  water ;  and  this  with  the  surrounding  beauties 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  397 

of  nature  are  illuminated  at  night  with  calcium 
lights  and  colored  lanterns,  producing  a  most 
beautiful  effect. 

Near  here  is  Appomattox,  the  scene  of  the 
surrender  of  Gen.  R.  E.  Lee,  with  his  Confederate 
army,  to  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant,  commanding  the 
United  States  forces  April  9th,  1865,  which  vir- 
tually terminated  the  civil  war  that  had  lasted 
for  over  four  years. 

At  Luray  where  we  found  a  magnificent  hotel 
most  charmingly  situated  amid  mountain  scenery, 
we  visited  the  famous  Luray  Cavern,  which  ex- 
tends several  miles  under  ground,  and  is  divided 
into  sections  or  compartments,  called  the  Hall  of 
Giants,  the  Theatre,  the  Ball-room,  Pluto's  Chasm, 
and  Skeleton  Gulch,  while  the  electric  lights 
shining  through  the  transparent  lime  formations  of 
stalagmite  and  stalactite  present  a  fairy-like 
scene,  and  are  named,  and  perfect  representations 
of,  the  Ghost,  the  Fish- market,  the  Saracens  Tent, 
the  Organ,  the  Bird's-nest,  the  Tower  of  Babel 
and  Cinderella  leaving  the  ball. 

Charlestown,  the  county  seat  of  Jefferson,  West 
Virginia,  is  noted  as  the  place  where  John  Brown 
and  his  six  surviving  associates  were  tried,  con- 
demned for  treason  and  insurrection,  and  hung 
December  2nd,  1859. 

Eight  miles  beyond  is  Harper's  Ferry,  located 
at  the  junction  of  the  Potomac  and  Shenandoah 
rivers,  with  high  mountains  on  every  side,  which 


398  A  TOUR 

with  the  canal  boats,  and  trains  of  cars  continually 
passing,  combine  to  form  a  scene  of  picturesque 
grandeur.  It  was  here  that  John  Brown  and  his 
comrades  at  dead  of  night  seized  the  U.  S. 
Arsenal  and  other  buildings  with  their  contents ; 
and  after  taking  from  their  beds  the  most  promi- 
nent citizens  of  the  neighborhood,  held  them  as 
hostages,  expecting  the  black  slaves  to  uprise 
and  flock  to  their  standard,  in  the  attempt  to  gain 
their  freedom.  This  bold  and  daring  plot  proved 
a  complete  failure,  caused  much  excitement,  and 
cost  many  lives ;  but  was  undoubtedly  the  pre- 
lude to  the  late  Civil  War  of  1861-1865,  which 
occasioned  so  much  bloodshed,  and  was  the 
means  of  abolishing  slavery  in  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

WASHINGTON:  BALTIMORE:  ANNAPOLIS:  PHILADELPHIA: 
NEW  YORK:  LONG  BRANCH:  CONEY  ISLAND:  BROOK- 
LYN :  HUDSON  RIVER  :  WEST  POINT  :  CATSKILL 

MTS.:  ALBANY:  SARATOGA:  LAKE  GEORGE:  NIAGARA 
FALLS:  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER:  MONTREAL:  QUEBEC: 
WHITE  MTS.:  BOSTON  :  PROVIDENCE  :  NEWPORT. 

WASHINGTON  CITY,  the  capital  of  the  United 
States  of  America,  with  a  population  of  150,000, 
is  situated  in  an  undulating  plain  on  the  banks  of 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  399 

the  Potomac  river.  It  is  to-day  one  of  the  finest 
cities  in  the  world,  and  with  its  broad  streets 
paved  with  asphaltum,  and  bordered  with  grass 
plots,  and  at  every  short  distance  a  heroic  statue 
in  bronze  or  marble  of  some  statesman  or  general, 
bids  fair  at  no  distant  day  to  be  unsurpassed  by 
any  city  on  the  globe. 

The  monuments  in  Washington  are  so  numer- 
ous that  it  would  fill  a  volume  alone  to  describe 
them ;  the  principal  ones,  however,  are  the 
Washington  Monument,  a  four-sided  shaft  of 
white  marble,  465  feet  high, — the  highest  in  the 
world,  costing  over  one  million  dollars ;  the 
Naval  Monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  sea- 
men who  fell  in  the  war  of  1861-5,  a  magnificent 
marble  group  ;  while  those  of  Generals  Jackson, 
Scott,  Thomas,  and  McPherson,  mounted  on 
horseback,  with  those  of  Presidents  Washington 
and  Lincoln,  and  Admiral  Farragut,  standing  on 
high  pedestals,  are  a  few  of  the  finest,  located  at 
the  intersection  of  the  streets. 

The  Capitol  building,  whose  corner-stone  was 
laid  by  Gen.  Washington  in  1793,  stands  on  a 
terraced  hill  90  feet  high,  environed  by  beautiful 
grounds,  and  is  the  most  imposing  structure  of  its 
kind  in  the  world.  It  is  built  of  white  marble 
and  freestone,  measures  750  feet  in  length,  and 
covers  an  area  of  3  ^  acres  ;  its  magnificent  dome 
surmounted  by  the  Statue  of  Liberty,  the  grand- 
est feature  of  this  vast  structure,  being  visible  for 


400  A    TOUR 

many  miles  away.  At  the  main  and  central  en- 
trance of  the  building,  where  the  Presidents  take 
the  oath  of  office,  is  the  colossal  marble  statue  of 
Washington  ;  on  either  side  are  figures  symbolical 
of  Peace  and  War,  and  the  bronze  doors  designed 
by  Rodgers  and  cast  by  Muller,  of  Munich, 
weigh  20,000  pounds,  and  are  a  marvel  of  work- 
manship and  beauty. 

In  the  rotunda  are  eight  large  paintings  with 
figures,  heroic  size,  illustrating  scenes  in  American 
history,  viz.:  Columbus  discovering  America,  the 
Baptism  of  Pocahontas,  De  Soto  discovering  the 
Mississippi,  the  Surrender  of  Cornwallis,  Signing 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  the  Resig- 
nation of  Washington  ;  above  and  extending  all 
around  the  dome  is  the  celebrated  fresco,  which 
stands  out  like  an  alto-relievo  of  marble  figures, 
and  on  the  ceiling  is  a  group  of  63  portraits 
covering  a  space  of  6,000  feet. 

The  National  Statuary  Hall,  semi-circular  in 
form,  is  surrounded  by  24  columns  of  variegated 
green  breccia  or  pudding-stone  taken  from  the 
quarries  near  the  city ;  and  here  are  statues  of 
statesmen  and  warriors,  each  State  being  allowed 
to  send  figures  of  two  of  its  most  prominent  men  : 
among  whom  are  Washington,  Jefferson,  Hamil- 
ton, Allen,  Green,  Livingston,  and  Lincoln.  In 
other  parts  of  the  building  are  portraits  of  presi- 
dents and  statesmen,  besides  paintings  of  the 
settlement  of  California,  and  Perry's  victory  on 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  40! 

Lake  Champlain  ;  while  the  Marble  Room,  ex- 
travagant in  its  decoration,  the  Supreme  Court, 
and  the  Library  of  Congress  are  all  well  worth 
an  inspection.  In  one  wing  of  the  Capitol  is  the 
Senate  Chamber,  arid  at  the  other  end  the  House 
of  Representatives,  where  the  Congress  of  the 
United  States  meets  in  session  from  December  to 
March  to  make  its  laws;  the  gayest  and  most  fash- 
ionable season  of  the  Capitol  is  during  the  session. 

Other  important  buildings  at  Washington  are 
the  Executive  Mansion,  usually  called  the  White 
House, — the  residence  of  the  President  of  the 
United  States, — the  Treasury,  State,  War,  Navy, 
and  Pension  buildings,  Post  Office  and  Agricul- 
tural Departments,  all  magnificent  structures  built 
of  granite,  which  well  repaid  an  interior  investi- 
gation ;  and  the  Botanical  Gardens,  Smithsonian 
Institute,  Naval  Observatory,  and  Navy  Yard  we 
visited  in  turn,  deriving  from  each  both  pleasure 
and  information. 

The  Corcoran  Gallery,  a  large  brick  and 
brown  stone  building,  contains  a  varied  and  valu- 
able collection,  comprising  among  its  statuary  the 
Greek  Slave,  by  Powers,  and  the  Dying  Napoleon, 
by  Vela ;  and  among  the  200  paintings,  many  of 
which  are  gems,  is  the  Procession  of  the  Holy  Bull 
Apis,  in  an  Egyptian  Temple,  by  a  modern  artist. 

The  Soldiers'  Home  for  disabled  veterans, 
located  in  a  park  of  500  acres,  is  reached  through  a 
beautiful  drive,  the  principal  resort  of  an  afternoon. 
26 


402  A    TOUR 

Georgetown  and  Alexandria  are  pretty  subur- 
ban towns  in  close  proximity  to  Washington  ;  in 
the  former  is  Oak  Hill  Cemetery,  where  are  the 
monuments  of  many  eminent  men,  and  the 
aqueduct  which  carries  the  water  of  the  Chesa- 
peake and  Ohio  Canal  across  the  Potomac  river ; 
while  in  the  latter  is  Christ  Church,  containing 
the  pews  number  59  and  46,  which  were  once 
occupied  by  Washington  and  Lee. 

Across  the  Potomac,  on  the  Virginia  side,  is 
Arlington,  the  magnificent  residence  of  General 
Lee  before  the  war  of  1861,  and  15  miles  further 
down  the  river  is  Mt.  Vernon,  where  Washington 
lived  and  now  lies  buried. 

At  Baltimore,  called  the  Monumental  City 
from  the  number  of  its  fine  monuments,  we  drove 
through  its  natural  and  beautiful  Druid  Hill  Park, 
and  viewed  its  fine  Washington  and  Battle  Monu- 
ments ;  then  taking  boat  down  the  Patapsco 
river,  made  a  brief  visit  to  Annapolis,  which  con- 
tains the  U.  S.  Naval  Academy  with  its  well 
laid  out  grounds. 

Philadelphia,  a  city  of  900,000  inhabitants, 
located  on  the  Schuylkill  river,  was  founded  by 
William  Penn,  who  came  over  from  England  in 
1682  with  a  colony  of  Quakers,  and  purchased 
this  site  from  the  Indians  for  $2,500.  Here  the 
first  Continental  Congress  assembled  in  1774, 
and  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  issued 
July  4th,  1776;  here  the  Convention  which 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  403 

framed  the  Constitution  of  the  Republic  as- 
sembled in  1787;  and  here  was  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States  until  1800,  when  it 
was  removed  to  Washington. 

The  city,  which  is  22  miles  long  by  8  wide, 
covers  an  area  of  130  square  miles,  and  has  more 
buildings  than  any  other  city  in  America. 
Its  manufacturing  interests  are  very  large,  and 
while  the  streets  as  a  general  thing  are  narrow, 
it  boasts  of  one  of  the  finest  parks  in  the  world ; 
among  its  principal  buildings  are  Independ- 
ence Hall,  where  July  4th,  1776,  the  Declaration 
of  Independence  was  read  and  adopted  ;  the  new 
City  Hall,  the  Masonic  Temple,  and  the  Penn- 
sylvania Railroad  depot. 

New  York  city,  the  commercial  metropolis  of 
the  United  States,  and  the  most  important  city 
of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  occupies  the  entire 
surface  of  Manhattan  Island,  and  a  considerable 
district  of  the  mainland.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
west  by  the  Hudson  river,  on  the  east  by  the 
East  river,  and  on  the  south  by  New  York  Bay, 
which  opens  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

Its  location  for  a  city  is  an  admirable  one, 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  water  of  sufficient 
depth  for  vessels  of  the  largest  draught,  and  its 
population,  which  is  rapidly  increasing,  numbers 
now  over  1,250,000  inhabitants. 

The  site  of  New  York  was  discovered  by  Ver- 
razzani,  a  Florentine,  in  1524,  but  was  visited 


404  A   TOUR 

later  by  Sir  Henry  Hudson,  an  Englishman,  in  the 
employ  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Co.,  who  landed 
here  Sept.  3rd,  1609,  and  claimed  this  as  well  as 
the  surrounding  country  for  Holland,  by  right  of 
discovery.  In  1614,  a  Dutch  colony  settled  the 
extreme  end  of  the  Island,  or  lower  part  of  the 
city,  now  known  as  Bowling  Green,  and  called  it 
New  Amsterdam,  but  in  1664  it  was  captured  by 
the  British  under  the  Duke  of  York,  since  which 
time  it  has  borne  the  name  of  New  York  City. 

Broadway  and  Fifth  Avenue  are  its  principal 
shopping  and  residence  streets,  running  almost 
the  entire  length  of  the  Island  in  the  centre  of  the 
city.  Starting  from  the  extreme  southern  end  of 
the  Island  called  the  Battery  where  is  located  Castle 
Garden,  a  large  building  where  all  emigrants  are 
landed,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  commercial 
and  financial  part  of  the  city  surrounded  on  every 
side  by  colossal  and  imposing  buildings,  several 
rising  to  a  height  of  fifteen  stories,  with  domes 
and  spires  even  towering  above  this,  and  some  of 
them  marking  the  sites  where  once  stood  houses 
occupied  by  Cornwallis,  Howe,  Clinton,  Arnold 
and  Washington,  when  the  colonies  were  strug- 
gling for  independence. 

One  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  city  is  the 
Produce  Exchange,  built  of  brick  and  iron,  occu- 
pying an  entire  square  on  Whitehall  Street,  and 
covering  the  site  of  the  house  where  died  Robert 
Fulton,  the  inventor  of  the  first  steamboat  "  The 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  405 

Clermont,"  which  plied  on  the  Hudson  river  in 
1807. 

At  the  intersection  of  Broad  and  Wall  streets, 
the  great  banking  centre,  is  the  U.  S.  Sub-trea- 
sury, built  of  white  marble,  in  front  of  which  is  a 
bronze  statue  of  Washington,  marking  the  spot 
where  the  old  Federal  Hall  once  stood,  and  the 
first  President  delivered  his  inaugural  address. 

On  Broadway  at  the  head  of  Wall  street, 
stands  Trinity  Church,  an  old  and  rich  corpora- 
tion, dating  back  to  1696,  built  of  brown  stone,  in 
the  Gothic  style,  with  a  spire  284  feet  high,  from 
the  top  of  which  is  obtained  a  magnificent  view, 
and  in  its  graveyard  lie  buried  Hamilton,  Fulton, 
Lawrence,  and  other  distinguished  men.  Continu- 
ing up  Broadway,  crowded  with  hundreds  of  ve- 
hicles and  a  surging  tide  of  humanity,  we  passed 
some  of  the  finest  structures  of  the  city,  and 
paused  at  old  St.  Paul's  church,  in  front  of  which 
rest  the  remains  of  General  Montgomery,  killed 
in  1775  in  the  assault  upon  Quebec. 

The  City  Hall,  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
park,  around  and  near  which  are  located  the  lead- 
ing newspaper  buildings  and  lawyers'  offices,  may 
be  termed  the  legal  and  literary  centre ;  and  in 
the  Governor's  room,  on  the  second  story  of  the 
City  Hall,  are  the  chair  in  which  Washington  sat 
when  inaugurated  President  of  the  United  States, 
ajid  the  desk  on  which  he  wrote  his  first  message 
to  Congress.  In  close  vicinity  are  the  Post  Office, 


406  A   TOUR 

built  of  granite,  at  a  cost  of  $12,000,000,  and  the 
Times  and  Tribune  newspaper  buildings,  magnifi- 
cent structures  towering  up  to  a  formidable  height 

The  great  East  River  Bridge,  connecting  New 
York  and  Brooklyn, —  the  New  York  entrance 
being  at  the  City  Hall  Park  —  is  the  largest  sus- 
pension bridge  in  existence,  and  a  gigantic  and 
remarkable  piece  of  engineering,  deserving  to  be 
styled  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  modern 
world. 

The  length  of  this  bridge  measures  5, 989  feet; 
the  central  span,  which  crosses  the  river  from 
tower  to  tower,  is  1,595  feet;  while  the  approach 
and  span  from  the  New  York  side  measures  2,493, 
and  that  from  the  Brooklyn  side  1,901  feet. 

The  towers  on  either  side,  built  of  granite,  rise 
to  a  height  of  278  feet  above  high  water,  and 
support  the  four  cables  of  steel,  each  of  which 
measures  16  inches  in  diameter  and  contains  5,282 
galvanized  wires,  to  which  the  bridge  is  swung. 

The  floor  of  the  span  is  135  feet  above  high- 
water  mark,  thus  enabling  the  tallest  ships  to  pass 
under  it;  and  it  is  85  feet  in  width,  allowing  a 
wide  promenade  for  foot-passengers,  two  railroad 
tracks,  and  two  roadways  for  vehicles. 

This  stupendous  triumph  of  engineering  was 
planned  by  Col.  John  A.  Roebling,  and  com- 
menced under  his  directions  in  January,  1870,  and 
completed  by  his  son,  Washington  Roebling,  and 
opened  to  traffic  May  23,  1883;  having  been 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  407 

about  13  years  in  process  of  building,  at  a  cost  of 
$15,000,000. 

Continuing  up  the  city  we  passed  through  the 
Five  Points,  the  London  Petticoat  Lane,  viewing 
its  depravity  and  wretchedness,  and  near  which  is 
the  Tombs  or  city  prison,  covering  an  entire  block, 
built  of  dark  granite  in  the  Egyptian  style,  where 
many  notorious  criminals  have  been  confined. 

Union  Square,  which  contains  bronze  monu- 
ments of  Washington,  Lafayette,  and  Lincoln,  is 
surrounded  by  fine  buildings,  and  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  great  shopping  district  which  extends  up 
and  down  Broadway  for  many  blocks.  Madison 
Square,  where  Broadway,  Fifth  Avenue,  and 
Twenty-third  street  intersect  one  another,  is  the 
hotel  and  theatre  centre,  and  in  the  very  heart 
of  New  York  city. 

Proceeding  up  Broadway  we  passed  the  prin- 
cipal theatres,  including  Wallack's,  Daly's,  the 
Casino,  and  Metropolitan  Opera  House ;  and 
hotels  and  apartment  houses  many  stories  high. 

On  Fifth  Avenue,  the  principal  street  for  driv- 
ing to  the  Park,  are  located  the  Union  League  and 
other  fine  clubs,  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  St. 
Thomas'  Episcopal,  and  Dr.  Hall's  Presbyterian, 
churches,  and  the  palatial  residences  of  Stewart, 
Gould,  Astor,  and  Vanderbilt,  the  millionaire 
princes  of  New  York. 

Central  Park,  probably  the  finest  in  the  world, 
extends  from  59th  to  I  loth  Streets,  and  embraces 


408  A   TOUR 

843  acres.  It  contains  numbers  of  small  lakes, 
magnificent  fountains,  lovely  drives,  romantic 
rambles,  rock  caverns,  and  rustic  arbors.  Here 
stands  the  Obelisk  presented  to  New  York  by 
the  Khedive  of  Egypt,  the  hieroglyphics  on  one 
side  showing  it  to  have  been  hewn  during  the 
reign  of  Thothmes  III.,  while  on  the  other  are  in- 
scribed the  victories  of  Rameses  II. 

Here  also  are  bronze  statues  of  Shakespeare, 
Scott,  Burns,  Webster,  Goethe,  Morse,  and  Hal- 
leek  ;  and  various  groups  add  to  the  embellish- 
ment of  this  enchanting  spot. 

In  one  part  of  the  grounds  are  the  Zoological 
Gardens,  with  an  interesting  collection  of  animals, 
birds,  and  reptiles ;  and  in  another  the  Metro- 
politan Museum  of  Art,  comprising  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  statuary  and  paintings. 

Within  the  Park  of  an  afternoon  is  a  constant 
throng  of  fine  and  stylish  equipages,  and  on  Har- 
lem Lane  may  be  seen  some  of  the  fastest  trotters 
on  record. 

Among  a  few  of  the  other  points  of  interest  in 
the  city  ma)'  be  mentioned,  High  Bridge,  by 
which  the  Croton  River  water  is  carried  over 
Harlem  River  to  be  distributed  in  the  city  mains; 
Madison  Avenue  with  its  superb  residences  and 
lofty  churches;  the  Lenox  and  Astor  Libraries; 
the  Academy  of  Design ;  and  on  Blackwells  Island 
in  the  East  River  .the  massive  structures  of  the 
Penitentiary,  Asylums,  and  Hospitals. 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  409 

Convenient  to  New  York  are  many  summer 
resorts  which  can  be  reached  in  an  hour  or  more 
either  by  water  or  rail. 

The  principal  of  these  is  Long  Branch,  where 
there  is  fine  surf  bathing  and  a  fashionable  drive 
which  extends  for  several  miles  along  the  beach. 
The  hotels  are  large  and  numerous,  and  the  cot- 
tages, many  of  which  are  built  in  the  Queen  Anne 
style  of  architecture,  are  environed  by  beautiful 
gardens,  and  well-kept  lawns. 

Coney  Island  being  the  most  accessible  sea- 
side resort  to  New  York,  is  the  most  popular  with 
the  masses,  and  here  on  a  summer's  day  may  be 
seen  from  50,000  to  100,000  persons  sporting  in 
the  waves,  or  enjoying  the  various  amusements 
and  attractions  of  the  place. 

The  Hotels  are  on  a  very  large  scale,  a  truly 
unique  one  being  built  in  the  form  of  an  ele- 
phant, 175  feet  high,  containing  30  rooms,  and 
a  hall  92  by  38  feet.  Entering  a  door  at  a  toe 
on  the  left  hind  leg,  one  ascends  numbers  of 
stairs,  and  traverses  various  sections  of  the  beast's 
anatomy,  and  finally  emerges  in  the  gilded  how- 
dah  on  its  back,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  view 
of  water  and  landscape. 

Jersey  City  and  Newark  are  suburban  towns, 
with  a  population  of  about  140,000  each,  and 
Brooklyn,  the  third  largest  city  in  the  United 
States,  with  a  population  of  600,000,  is  directly 
opposite  New  York  and  connected  with  the  latter 


410  A    TOUR 

city  by  the  East  River  bridge.  We  drove  over 
this  obtaining  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor,  and 
reaching  Brooklyn  continued  through  its  avenues 
of  brown  stone  houses  to  Prospect  Park,  contain- 
ing 550  acres,  and  thence  to  Greenwood  cemetery, 
where  are  many  rich  and  handsome  tombs  and 
monuments. 

Taking  boat  from  New  York  we  sailed  up  the 
beautiful  and  romantic  Hudson  River,  the  Rhine 
of  America,  whose  banks  teem  with  legends  and 
historic  interest. 

We  first  passed  the  spot  where  Burr  killed 
Hamilton  in  a  duel ;  then  Forts  Lee  and  Washing- 
ton of  Revolutionary  fame  ;  Mt.  St.  Vincent,  once 
the  home  of  Forrest  the  actor ;  Yonkers,  where 
lived  Mary  Phillips,  Washington's  first  love ; 
Tappan,  where  Major  Andre  was  imprisoned  and 
executed  ;  Irvington,  which  contains  "  Sunny- 
side  "  the  late  residence  of  Washington  Irving ; 
Tarrytown,  where  Andre  was  arrested,  where 
Irving  lies  buried,  and  the  scene  of  the  author's 
happiest  fancies,  including  "Sleepy  Hollow;" 
Sing  Sing,  with  its  gloomy  state  prison ;  Croton 
Point,  above  which  the  water  of  the  Croton  river 
is  conveyed  to  New  York  by  the  great  Croton 
Aqueduct  40  miles  long,  with  16  tunnels,  and  24 
bridges ;  and  Caldwell's  Landing,  where  it  is  said 
the  famous  pirate,  Capt.  Kidd,  buried  his  treasure. 
Here  we  reached  the  Highlands,  and  passed 
rapidly  by  Thunder  Mountain,  with  its  beautiful 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  41  I 

cascade ;  Anthony's  Nose,  a  rocky  promontory ; 
the  picturesque  lona  Island,  a  favorite  picnic  re- 
sort ;  Sugar-loaf  Mountain  at  the  foot  of  which  is 
Beverly  House,  where  Arnold  was  breakfasting 
when  he  heard  of  the  capture  of  Andre  ;  and 
Cranston's  Hotel,  one  of  the  favorite  summer  re- 
sorts, commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and 
mountain. 

We  landed  at  West  Point,  by  far  the  most 
charming  spot  on  the  Hudson,  where  is  located 
the  U.  S.  Military  Academy,  including  an  exten- 
sive parade  ground  where  the  cadets  are  instructed 
in  infantry,  artillery,  and  cavalry  drill. 

On  one  side  are  the  residences  of  the  com- 
manding general,  officers  and  professors,  together 
with  the  barracks,  mess-hall,  chapel  and  observ- 
atory; and  on  the  other  side  are  the  forts  contain- 
ing the  heavy  artillery,  which  command  the  river, 
and  from  which  point  are  obtained  glorious  views 
in  all  directions. 

Continuing  our  interesting  trip  up  the  Hudson 
we  landed  at  Catskill,  and  there  took  rail  and 
stage  up  the  Catskill  Mountains.  About  midway 
up  the  mountain  in  a  secluded  dell  is  pointed 
out  the  spot  where  Rip  Van  Winkle  took  his 
famous  sleep ;  and  near  the  summit  are  two  mag- 
nificent hotels,  the  Kaaterskill,  and  Mountain 
House,  from  both  of  which  one  looks  down  upon 
a  far-spreading  panorama  with  the  Hudson  River 
running  through  it  like  a  silver  thread. 


412  A   TOUR 

Albany,  the  capital  of  New  York  State  is,  next 
to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  the  oldest  settlement  in 
the  country,  having  been  a  Dutch  trading  point 
in  1614.  It  is  built  on  a  hill  sloping  towards  the 
river,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  Capitol  Square, 
and  the  finest  public  buildings  of  the  city. 

Saratoga,  a  place  of  10,000  inhabitants,  is 
celebrated  for  its  famous  mineral  springs,  which 
attract  annually  some  50,000  people  from  all 
parts  of  the  globe.  It  has  altogether  some  25 
springs,  containing  iron,  sulphur  and  magnesia; 
the  Congress  and  Hathorn,  with  large  propor- 
tions of  carbonic-acid  gas,  being,  however,  the 
most  popular. 

Besides  a  few  fine  residences,  here  are  some 
of  the  grandest  hotels  in  the  country  which  are 
crowded  to  their  utmost  during  July  and  August, 
the  racing  season,  and  on  whose  wide  verandahs, 
during  the  hours  that  the  bands  play,  the  ladies 
may  be  seen  arrayed  in  elegant  costumes  and 
wearing  costly  jewels. 

From  here  we  visited  that  lovely  sheet  of 
water,  Lake  George,  stopping  at  Fort  William 
Henry,  and  Rodgers  Rock ;  thence  by  boat,  and 
stage  to  the  historic  spot  of  Ticonderoga,  and  after 
doing  the  Adirondack  Mountains,  and  skirting 
numerous  beautiful  lakes  we  arrived  at  Niagara. 

The  Niagara  Falls,  are  formed  by  the  Niagara 
River  which  drains  Lake  Erie,  and  falls  perpen- 
dicularly 1 68  feet  over  a  rock  formation,  of  horse- 


AROUND   THE    WORLD.  413 

shoe  shape  4,750  feet  wide.  In  the  centre  of  the 
river,  and  on  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  is  Goat 
Island,  which  is  reached  by  a  bridge ;  from  this 
point  the  venturesome,  enveloped  in  water-proofs 
and  accompanied  by  a  guide,  go  under  the  Falls, 
and  through  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  where  on  a 
sunshiny  day  one  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  perfect 
rainbow  circle.  At  night  when  the  colored  cal- 
cium lights  are  thrown  upon  the  cataracts,  the  ef- 
fect is  most  wonderful,  the  red  light  resembling  a 
sea  of  blood.  It  is  estimated  that  no  less  than 
100,000,000  gallons  of  water  per  hour  pass  over 
the  falls,  which  with  the  whirlpool  rapids,  and  the 
beautiful  suspension  bridge  below,  combine  to 
make  a  scene  of  unsurpassed  grandeur,  which 
grows  upon  one  the  more  it  is  seen. 

We  passed  from  here  by  rail  through  Lock- 
port,  so  called  from  its  numerous  canal  locks, 
and  afterwards  taking  steamer  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  sailed  among  the  Thousand  Islands, 
shooting  the  rapids,  and  landing  at  Montreal  in 
Canada.  This  is  the  largest  city  and  commercial 
emporium  of  British  America,  and  contains  in  its 
public  square  a  marble  statue  of  Queen  Victoria. 

Quebec,  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  city 
in  Canada,  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence 300  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  old  town  is 
surrounded  by  walls  three  miles  in  extent,  and  the 
Citadel  covering  40  acres,  and  crowning  the  sum- 
mit of  a  rock  hill,  is  styled  the  Gibraltar  of  America. 


414  A  TOUR 

Along  the  edge  of  the  cliff  and  200  feet 
above  the  river  is  Dufferin  Terrace,  ^  of  a  mile 
long,  overlooking  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  city ; 
while  in  the  vicinity  are  appropriate  monuments 
erected  to  the  memory  of  the  gallant  Wolf  and 
Montcalm. 

Continuing  our  journey  we  skirted  the  shores 
of  Lake  Champlain,  and  stopped  at  the  Profile, 
Crawford,  and  Glen  Houses,  in  the  White  Moun- 
tains, to  see  their  various  features  of  interest,  and 
enjoy  the  fine  mountain  views ;  and  ascended  Mt. 
Washington  6,293  feet  high,  by  a  railway  similar 
to  the  one  up  the  Rigi. 

Boston  with  a  population  of  400,000  is  situated 
principally  on  a  peninsular  extending  into  Massa- 
chusetts Bay.  It  was  here  that  on  March  5, 
1770,  the  Boston  Massacre  occurred  when  the 
soldiers  fired  upon  the  citizens,  killing  and  wound- 
ing many  people,  and  here  on  Dec.  16,  1773,  the 
tea  was  thrown  overboard  into  the  harbor,  which 
was  one  of  the  opening  scenes  of  the  Revolution- 
ary War. 

The  business  streets  of  the  city,  unlike  most  in 
America  are  crooked  and  narrow,  but  in  the  resi- 
dence and  newer  portion  they  are  wide  and 
straight,  and  contain  some  fine  churches  and 
public  buildings. 

The  Common,  a  park  of  50  acres  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  is  not  only  historic,  but  the  principal 
pleasure-ground,  and  near  its  celebrated  Frog 


AROUND    THE    WORLD.  415 

pond,  is  erected  the  Soldiers  Monument,  90  feet 
high,  with  four  statues  of  heroic  size  at  its  base ; 
while  in  the  Public  Gardens  adjoining  are  the 
statues  of  Washington,  Everett,  and  Sumner. 

The  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  on  the  site  of 
the  old  fort  at  Breed  Hill,  is  a  square  obelisk  of 
Quincy  granite,  220  feet  high,  and  commemorates 
the  battle  fought  on  that  spot  June  17,  1/75. 

The  buildings  of  greatest  interest  in  Boston 
are  Faneuil  Hall  of  Revolutionary  fame ;  the 
State  House,  with  its  collection  of  statuary,  paint- 
ings and  historic  relics ;  Memorial  Hall,  and  Music 
Hall,  the  latter  one  of  the  finest  in  America,  con- 
taining the  second  largest  organ  in  the  world. 

At  Cambridge,  a  suburb  of  Boston,  is  located 
the  Harvard  University,  founded  by  the  Rev. 
John  Harvard  in  1638,  and  one  of  the  oldest  and 
richest  institutions  of  learning  in  America. 

After  leaving  Boston  we  stopped  at  Provi- 
dence, the  capital  of  Rhode  Island,  founded  in 
1636  by  Roger  Williams,  who  had  been  banished 
from  Massachusetts  on  account  of  his  religious 
beliefs.  Here  are  Brown  University,  an  old 
institution  of  learning,  and  the  City  Hall,  one  of 
the  finest  buildings  of  the  kind  in  New  England, 
which  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000. 

Newport,  the  queen  sea-side  resort  of  the 
East,  is  on  Narragansett  Bay,  5  miles  from  the 
ocean.  It  has  limited  hotel  accommodations,  and 
its  beach  is  not  as  fine  as  that  at  Long  Branch.  It 


41 6  A    TOUR 

is  principally  the  resort  of  wealthy  New  Yorkers, 
who  have  built  magnificent  and  substantial  houses 
which  they  call  cottages.  The  season  here  con- 
tinues later  than  at  other  resorts,  for  in  Septem- 
ber when  business  men  have  returned  to  the 
cities,  a  round  of  gaieties  is  inaugurated  which 
renders  this  month  probably  the  most  enjoyable 
of  the  season. 

Here  taking  one  of  the  magnificent  Sound 
steamers,  we  sailed  through  Long  Island  Sound 
and  down  the  East  River  under  the  great  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  passing  near  Bedloe's  Island,  where 
Bartholdi's  bronze  Statue  of  Liberty,  a  gift  from 
the  people  of  France  to  the  people  of  the  United 
States  is  about  to  be  erected.  This  is  the  colossal 
figure  of  a  woman  bearing  a  torch  in  her  up-lifted 
hand,  which  with  its  pedestal  when  completed  will 
stand  300  feet  high,  the  tallest  statue  in  the  world, 
and  with  its  electric  light  throwing  countless 
rays  many  miles  out  to  sea,  will  serve  as  a  beacon 
of  welcome  to  the  stranger  from  foreign  shores. 

Viewing  from  the  harbor  the  marvels  of  engin- 
eering skill,  and  the  gigantic  structures  completed 
during  our  absence,  we  noted  with  pride  the 
advancement  and  enterprise  of  our  own  people 
compared  with  those  of  many  other  countries, 
and  hailed  with  joy  our  return  to  New  York 
after  a  two  years'  tour,  in  which  we  had  made 
the  entire  circuit  of  the  globe. 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Abbey  Cambuskenneth, 

Scotland, 

12 

"       Uryburgh, 

n 

•16 

"       Melrose, 

« 

16 

"       Muckross, 

Ireland, 

5 

"       Stoneleigh, 

England, 

34 

Abbotsford, 

Scotland, 

16 

Abilene, 

Syria, 

273 

Abo,  Finland, 

23,000 

Russia, 

Abydos  (Ruins), 

Egypt, 

26 

Abydos,  Asia  Minor, 

1,000 

Turkey, 

287 

Aden, 

5,000 

Arabia, 

3°4 

Agra, 

138,000 

India, 

342 

Ahmadabad, 
Ain-Karim, 

117,000 

Syria, 

333 
246 

Aix-la-Chapelle, 
Albany,  N.  Y., 

86,000 
95,000 

Germany, 
U.  S.  A. 

150 
412 

Alexandria, 

212,000 

Egypt, 

223 

Algiers, 

60  ooo 

Algeria, 

176 

Alpnach, 

1,000 

Switzerland, 

133 

Altdorf. 

3,000 

'' 

132 

Amber, 

3,000 

India, 

335 

Amiens, 

67,000 

France, 

299 

Amsterdam, 

327,000 

Holland, 

61 

Annapolis,  Md., 

7,000 

U.  S.  A., 

402 

Antinoopolis, 

Egypt. 

235 

Antwerp, 

163,000 

Belgium, 

58 

Appomattox,  Va., 

I,  OOO 

U.  S.  A., 

397 

Assioot, 

28,000 

Egypt, 

235 

Asswan, 

5,000 

•  * 

240 

Athens, 

64,000 

Greece, 

280 

Aussee, 

1,000 

Austria, 

121 

Ayr, 

18,000 

Scotland, 

8 

Baalbec  (Ruins), 

Syria, 

274 

Baden-Baden, 

11,000 

Germany, 

144 

Badrachin 
Balloch-Pier, 

Egypt, 
Scotland, 

233 

IO 

Baltimore,  Md., 

332,000 

U.  S.  A., 

402 

Bantry, 
Baroda, 

3,000 
140,000 

Ireland, 
India. 

3 
333 

Barrackpoor, 

1O.COO 

u 

357 

27 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

Basle, 

45,000 

Switzerland, 

Batrichgarden, 

1,000 

Bavaria, 

Bayonne, 

28,000 

France, 

Beira, 

Syria, 

Beit  Jenn, 

Belbeis, 

Egypt, 

Belfast, 

208,000 

Ireland, 

Bellagio, 

3,000 

Italy, 

Benares, 

208,000 

India, 

Beni-Hassan, 

Egypt. 

Berlin, 

1,123,000 

Germany, 

Bern, 

36,000 

Switzerland, 

Bethany, 

2,000 

Syria, 

Bethel, 

1,000 

" 

Bethlehem, 

5,000 

it 

Bethsaida, 

u 

Bettws-y-coed,, 

3,000 

Wales, 

Beyrout, 

100,000 

Syria, 

Biarritz, 

5,000 

France, 

Big  Trees,  (Mariposa),  Cal., 

U.  S.  A., 

Big  Trees,  (Calaveras,)  Cal., 

« 

Bingen,         ... 

8,000 

Germany, 

Black  Forest, 

" 

Blidah, 

12,000 

Algeria, 

Blois, 

21,000 

France, 

Bludan, 

Syria, 

Blue  Grotto, 

Italy, 

Bologna, 

112,000 

«« 

Bombay, 

750,000 

India, 

Bordeaux, 

216,000 

¥  ranee, 

Bordein, 

Egypt. 

Bor  Ghat, 

India, 

Bosphorus, 
Boston,  Mass., 

375»000 

Turkey, 
U.  S.  A., 

Boulogne, 

40.000 

France, 

Bowness, 

3,000 

England, 

Brahmanism, 

India, 

Bremen, 

113,000 

Germany, 

Brieg, 

1,000 

Switzerland, 

Brienz, 

1,000 

k< 

Brighton,     • 

1  10,000 

England, 

Brindisi, 

14,000 

Italy, 

Brixlegg,  Tyrol, 

1,000 

Austria, 

Brohl, 

3,000 

Germany, 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y., 

600,000 

U.  S.  A., 

Brusa, 

10,000  •         Turkey, 

Brussels, 

171  ooo     |      Belgium, 

Bubastis,         -             - 

Egypt, 

Buda-Pesth,  Hungary, 

308,000 

Austria, 

INDEX. 


419 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Buddhism, 

India, 

3J4 

Burgos, 

30,000 

Spain, 

Bushy  Park, 

England, 

3° 

Caesarea  Philippi, 

1,000 

Syria, 

270 

Cairo, 

350,000 

Egypt, 

224 

Calcutta, 

795,000 

India, 

360 

Caligat, 

20,000 

•« 

Callander, 

3,000 

Scotland, 

ii 

Cambridge,  Mass., 

6,000 

U.  S.  A., 

415 

Cana, 

1,000 

Syria, 

267 

Canal,  Gotha, 

Sweden, 

66 

"       Suez, 

Egypt, 

300 

Cannes, 

10,000 

France, 

Canon,  Arkansas,  Col., 

U.  S.  A., 

394 

"       Blue,  Cal., 

« 

39  1 

"       Yellowstone.   Wym'g., 
Canton, 

1,300,000 

ti 

China, 

1 

Cape  Horn,  Cal., 

U.  S.  A., 

Capernaum, 

Syria, 

268 

Carlisle, 

31,000 

England, 

37 

Carlsbad,  Bohemia, 

8,000 

Austria, 

296 

Carrara, 

24,000 

Italy, 

202 

Carson,  Nev. 

7,000 

U.  S.  A.  , 

391 

Castellamare, 

19,000 

Italy, 

221 

Caste, 

India, 

3*8 

Castle  Aggershuus, 

Norway, 

68 

Asia, 

Turkey, 

294 

Banias, 

Syria, 

270 

Blarney, 

Ireland, 

2 

Carisbrooke, 

Isle  of  Wight, 

39 

Cardross,- 

Scotland, 

10 

Chillon, 

Switzerland, 

137 

Conway, 

Wales, 

39 

Dumbarton, 

Scotland, 

10 

Dunluce, 

Ireland, 

6 

Drachenfels, 

Germany, 

148 

Edinburgh, 

Scotland, 

13 

Ehrenfels, 

Germany, 

148 

Ehrenbreitstein, 

" 

148 

Europe, 

Turkey, 

294 

Johannisberg, 
Kenilworth, 

Germany, 
England, 

Kronborg, 

Denmark, 

65 

Munkholm, 

Norway, 

70 

Pfalz, 

Germany, 

148 

Reinfels, 

" 

148 

Rheinstein, 

" 

148 

Rolandseck, 

" 

148 

Roslin, 

Scotland, 

15 

420 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

Castle  Stirling,    - 

Scotland, 

'  '      Stolzenfels, 

Germany, 

"      Two  Brothers, 

<  < 

"      Warwick, 

England, 

"      Windsor, 

<» 

Cataract,  Nile, 
Caves,  Karli, 

Egypt, 
India, 

"      Luray,  Va.,    - 

U.  S.  A., 

Cawnpore, 

125,000 

India, 

Chamouni, 

3,OOO 

France, 

Charlestown,  W.  Va., 

2,OOO 

U.  S.  A., 

Charlottenburg, 

26,OOO 

Germany, 

Chatsworth  Hall, 

England, 

Chateau  d'lf,  - 

France, 

Chester,      .... 
Chicago,  Ills., 

37,OOO 
6OO,OOO 

England, 
U.  S.  A., 

Chillanibaram,     - 

40,000 

India, 

Christiania,      - 

IOO,OOO 

Norway, 

Clarks,  Cal  ,        ... 

U.  S.  A., 

Coblentz, 

32,OOO 

Germany, 

Colombo,    -         -         -         - 

98,OOO 

I'd  of  Ceylon, 

Cologne, 

145,000 

Germany, 

Como,          .... 

25,000 

Italy, 

Coney  Island,  N.  Y., 

U.   S.  A, 

Constantinople, 

1,000,000 

Turkey, 

Constance, 

14,000 

Germany, 

Conway,      .... 

3,000 

Wales, 

Copenhagen, 

236,000 

Denmark, 

Cordova,     - 

150,000 

Spain. 

Cork,       -         ... 

79,000 

Ireland, 

Cork  Forests,     ... 

Spain, 

Cornice  Road, 

France, 

Coventry, 

42,000 

England, 

Cowes,             ... 
Crystal  Palace, 

6,000 

Is.  of  Wight, 
England, 

Damascus, 

175,000 

Syria, 

Dan, 

tt 

Daphne, 

Egypt. 

Daphne-Pass,      - 

Greece, 

Dardanelles, 

Turkey, 

Darjeeling,           - 

10,000 

India, 

Dead  Sea 

Syria, 

Delhi,          .... 

155,000 

India, 

Denver,  Colo., 

50,000 

U.   S.  A, 

Dieppe,       -         -         -  *  - 

21,000 

France, 

Dijon,      .... 

48,000 

<< 

Dothan,       .... 

Syria, 

Dresden,  Saxony, 
Dublin,       -        I        -         -     1 

221,000 
340,000 

/ 
Germany, 
Ireland, 

INDEX. 


42I 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Durham,     -         ... 

150  ooo 

England, 

37 

Edfoo,     --.- 
Edinburgh,          - 

2,000 
230,000 

Egypt, 

Scotland, 

239 
13 

Eleusis, 

2.OOO 

Greece, 

285 

Elsinore,     - 

9,000 

Denmark, 

65 

Emmaus, 

Syria, 

246 

Ems, 

6,000 

Germany, 

298 

Endor,     -        ... 

1,000 

Syria, 

265 

Epernay,     • 

16,000 

France, 

*52 

Ephesus  (Ruins),  Asia  Min'r, 

Turkey, 

278 

Escurial, 

2,000 

Spain, 

162 

Esdraelon  Plain, 

Syria, 

264 

Esna, 

7,000 

Egypt, 

239 

Estura,        - 

I,  OOO 

Syria, 

275 

Etam, 

1,000 

" 

256 

Feshneh, 

Egypt, 

234 

Ffestiniog,       - 

I,  OOO 

Wales, 

39 

Florence, 

170,000 

Italy, 

199 

Fontainebleau, 

12,000 

France, 

52 

Fountain  of  Elisha, 

Syria, 

261 

Fijeh, 
Frankfort-on-the-Maine, 

138,000 

<  < 
Germany, 

273 
146 

Freiburg,           ... 

37,000 

" 

H3 

Freibourg,           - 

11,000 

Switzerland, 

136 

Gabbi,     -         --- 

1,000 

Italy, 

216 

Gap  of  Dunloe, 

Ireland, 

4 

Garden  of  the  Gods,  Col., 

U.  S.  A., 

394 

Gebel  Silsileh, 

Egypf» 

240 

Geneva,       -         ... 

47,000 

Switzerland, 

138 

Genoa,     .... 

162,000 

Italy, 

1  86 

Geysers,  California,     - 

U.  S.   A, 

388 

"       Yellowstone, 

ti 

398 

Gezer,         .... 

Syria, 

247 

Giants  Causeway, 

Ireland, 

6 

Gibraltar,   - 

25,000 

Spain, 

170 

Giesbach  Falls, 

Switzerland, 

134 

Girgeh,       - 

2,000 

Egypt, 

236 

Gizeh,     -         -         -         - 

230 

Glasgow,     - 

5I2,OOO 

Scotland, 

7 

Glengariff,        - 

Ireland, 

3 

Gmiinclen, 

2,000 

Austria, 

122 

Golconda, 

100,000 

India, 

328 

Golden  Horn,     - 

Turkey, 

294 

Gorge  of  ChifTa, 

Algeria, 

I76 

"         Gondo, 

Italy, 

141 

"         Trient,      - 

Switzerland, 

I4O 

Gottenburg, 
Granada, 

75,000 
76,000 

Sweden, 
Spain, 

66 
1  66 

Greenwich,          ... 

40,000 

England, 

3i 

422 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

Grindelwald, 

POPULATION 

3,000 

COUNTRY 

Switzerland, 

Guys  Cliff, 

England, 

Gyswyl,     - 

2,000 

Switzerland, 

Hadden  Hall, 

England, 

Halicarnassus,  Asia  Minor, 

Turkey, 

Hallstadt, 

2,000 

Austria, 

Hamor,     - 

1,000 

Norway, 

Hamburg, 

290,000 

Germany, 

Hammerfest, 

2,000 

Norway, 

Hampton  Court, 

England, 

Haran, 

Syria, 

Harpers  Ferry,  W.  Va.  , 

3,000 

U.  S.  A. 

Havre,     -.-.-..-- 

93,000 

France, 

Hawthornden, 

Scotland, 

Hebron,     - 

5,000 

Syria, 

Heidelberg, 

25,000 

Germany, 

Heliopolis,      - 
Hellespont, 

Egypt, 
Turkey, 

Helsingfors,  Finland, 

34,000 

Russia, 

Herculaneum,     - 

Italy, 

Hinduism, 

India, 

Hiogo, 

41,000 

Japan, 

Homburg, 

9,000 

Germany, 

Hong  Kong  (Victoria), 

250,000 

China, 

Hyderabad,     - 

200,000 

India, 

India,  History  and  Religion, 

Indianapolis,  Ind., 

80,000 

U.  S.  A., 

Innsbruck,  Tyrol, 

17,000 

Austria, 

Interlachen, 

IO,OOO 

Switzerland, 

Inversnaid, 

Scotland, 

Irun, 

3,000 

Spain, 

lorea, 

Italy, 

Ischl, 

2,000 

Austria, 

Island,  Bedloe's,  N.  Y., 

U.  S.  A., 

Borromean, 

Italy, 

Capri, 

«< 

Ceylon, 

G't  Britain, 

Coney,  N.  Y., 

U.  S.  A., 

Cyprus, 

G't  Britain, 

Elba, 

Italy, 

Elephantine, 

Egypt, 

Hong  -Kong, 
Maldire, 

China, 
G't  Britain, 

Mitylene, 

Turkey, 

Patmos, 

« 

Pen  an  g, 

G't  Britain, 

Philse, 

Egypt, 

Rhodda, 

<« 

Rhodes, 

Turkey, 

INDEX. 


423 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Island,  Samos, 

Turkey, 

277 

"       Scio, 

" 

278 

'  '       Symi, 

" 

277 

"      Tenedos, 

« 

286 

Ismailia, 

3,OOO 

Egypt, 

301 

Jaffa,  (Joppa\ 

8,OOO 

Syria, 

244 

Jains, 

India, 

eddah, 

IO,OOO 

Arabia, 

302 

enin, 

Syria, 

264 

ericho,  - 

" 

261 

ersey  City,  N.  J.,  - 

125,000 

U.  S.  A., 

409 

erusalem, 

36,000 

Syria, 

247 

eypoor, 
Jezreel, 
Jonkoping,  - 
Kafr  Hauwar,     - 

150,000 

l6,OOO 
1,000 

India, 
Syria, 
Sweden, 

Syria, 

1 

270 

Kamakura, 

7,000 

Japan, 

3*3 

Kandy, 

18,000 

Ceylon, 

Kantara, 

Egypt, 

301 

Karli  Caves, 

India, 

329 

Karnak  (Ruins) 

Egypt, 

237 

Keneh, 

3,000 

236 

Kenilworth, 

4,000 

England, 

Keswick, 

3,000 

" 

3*7 

Kew  Gardens, 

« 

29 

ECillarney, 

5,000 

Ireland, 

4 

Kioto, 

300,000 

Japan, 

376 

Kirjathjearim,     - 

Syria, 

246 

Kistnah  Valley, 

India, 

328 

Kobe, 

10,000 

Japan, 

375 

Kom  Omboo, 

Egypt, 

240 

Konigssee, 

Bavaria, 

124 

Lake  Biwako, 

Japan, 

376 

Brienz, 

Switzerland, 

Champlain,   N.  Y.,     - 

U.  S.  A.. 

414 

Como, 

Italy, 

142 

Derwentwater, 

England, 

37 

Geneva,      - 

Switzerland, 

137 

George,  N,  Y., 

U.  S.  A., 

412 

Grassmere, 
Killarney, 

England, 
Ireland, 

37 
4 

Lucerne, 

Switzerland, 

132 

Lugano, 

Italy, 

141 

Maggiore, 

" 

141 

Merom, 

Syria, 

269 

Rydalwater, 

England, 

37 

Sarnen, 

Switzerland. 

Tahoe,  Cal., 

U.  S.  A., 

392 

'     Thirlmere, 

England, 

37 

424 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

Lake  Thun, 

Switzerland, 

Tiberias, 

Syria, 

Traun, 

Austria, 

Windermere, 

England, 

Zug, 

Switzerland, 

Zurich, 

«» 

Yellowstone, 

U.  S.  A., 

Lancaster,    - 

21,000 

England, 

Lanowlee, 

1,000 

India, 

Larnica,        - 

15,000 

Cyprus, 

Latroon, 

Syria, 

Lausanne,     - 

27,000 

Switzerland, 

Lauterbrunnen, 

2,000 

«  < 

Leamington, 

23,000 

England, 

Leghorn, 

98,000 

Italy, 

Lexington,  Va., 

3,000 

U.  S.  A., 

Linz, 

30,000 

Austria, 

Liverpool,    - 

553.000 

England, 

Livingston, 

3,000 

U.  S.  A., 

Llandudno, 

1,000 

Wales, 

Loch  Katrine,    - 

Scotland, 

"     Lomond, 

it 

Lock  port,  N.  Y., 

14,000 

U.  S.  A., 

London,      -        ... 

4,000,000 

England, 

Long  Branch,  N.  J., 
Lorelei  Rock,     ... 

7,000 

U.  S.  A. 
Germany, 

Los  Angeles,  Gala., 

30,000 

U.  S.  A. 

Louisville,  Ky., 

125,000 

U.  S.  A. 

Lucerne,          - 

15.000 

Switzerland, 

Lucknow, 

262,000 

India, 

Lugano,  - 

6,000 

Italy, 

Luray,  Va.,         ... 

1,000 

U.  S.  A. 

Luxor,    - 

2,000 

Egypt. 

Lydda,        .... 

o      • 

Syria, 

Lyons,    - 

343,000 

France, 

Macon,        -         ... 

18,000 

France, 

Madeira,  Gala., 

1,000 

U.  S.  A. 

Madras,       - 

406,000 

India, 

Madrid,  -         -         -;    .     - 

400,000 

Spain, 

Madura,      -         -         - 

52,000 

India, 

Megara,  - 

4,000 

Greece, 

Magdala,     - 

1,000 

Syria, 

Magicians  Well, 

tt 

Malaga,       -         - 

116,000 

Spain, 

Malacca,  .... 

15,000 

Malacca, 

Malmais-on,          - 

3,000 

France, 

Manchester,     ... 

342,000 

England, 

Mandalay             - 

90,000 

Burmah, 

Manitou  Springs,  Col.,    - 

1,000 

U.  S.  A. 

INDEX. 


425 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Mar  Saba,            ... 

Syria, 

257 

Marseilles.       ... 

325,000 

France, 

181 

Matlock  Baths,    - 

5,000 

England, 

38 

Mauvais-Pas,  - 

France, 

140 

Mayence,             - 

62,000 

Germany, 

147 

Mecca,     - 

30,000 

Arabia, 

302 

Medina,      .... 

20,000 

«  i 

302 

Medjee  Eshshems,  - 

1,000 

Syria, 

270 

Meissen,  Saxony, 

Germany, 

108 

Melrose, 

3,000 

Scotland, 

16 

Memphis,  (Ruins,)     - 

Egypt, 

233 

Mer-de-Glace, 

France, 

Merguin  Archipelago, 

365 

Metz,       ...        - 

54,000 

Germany, 

ICJ 

Milan,          - 

261,000 

Italy, 

189 

Minieh,             ... 

11,000 

Egypt, 

235 

Mocha, 

10,000 

Arabia, 

304 

Mohammedanism,    - 

3*7 

Monaco,      -        ... 

3.000 

Monaco, 

184 

Monkey-brook, 

Algeria, 

176 

Montanvert,        ... 

France, 

Monte  Carlo, 
Monterey,  Gala., 

1,000 
1,000 

Monaco, 
U.  S.  A., 

ii 

Montreal,         ... 

50,000 

Canada, 

413 

Montreux,           - 

2,000 

Switzerland, 

Moscow, 

600,000 

Russia, 

83 

Moulmein, 

54,000 

Br.  Burmah, 

365 

Mount  Abu,    - 

India, 

Mount  Beatitudes, 

Syria, 

267 

1       Blanc,     - 

France, 

139 

'       Chamalari,  - 

Thibet, 

358 

'       Eiger,     - 

Switzerland, 

135 

«       Ebal, 

Syria, 

263 

1       Everest, 

Thibet, 

358 

'       Gerizim, 

Syria, 

263 

'       Hermon, 

ii 

270 

'       Holy  Cross,  Col.,    - 

U.  S.  A., 

394 

'       Kinchinjinga,     - 

Thibet, 

358 

*       Loser, 

Austria, 

121 

'       Olives, 

Syria, 

248 

'      Olympus,  Asia  Minor, 
1       Pike's  Peak, 

Turkey, 
U.  S.  A., 

287 

394 

4      Rigi,      - 

Switzerland, 

'       Shasta,  Cal  , 

U.  S.  A., 

392 

4       Sinai, 

Arabia, 

302 

'       Tabor, 

Syria, 

2b5 

Vesuvius, 

Italy, 

220 

'       Washington,  Vt.,    - 

U.  S.  A. 

414 

'       Wetterhorn, 

Switzerland, 

426 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

Mountains,  Adirondack, 

U.  S.  A., 

"            Anti-Lebanon, 

Syria, 

Catskill, 

U.  S.  A., 

"            Lebanon, 

Syria, 

"            Little  Hermon, 

« 

White, 

U.  S.  A., 

Munich, 

23O,OOO 

Bavaria, 

Mustad, 

Norway, 

Nablous,  (Shechem), 

1,000 

Syria, 

Nagasaki, 

30,OOO 

Japan, 

Nain, 

Syria, 

Napa  Valley,  Cal., 

U.  S.  A., 

Naples, 

45O,OOO 

Italy, 

Natural  Bridge,  Va., 

U.  S.  A., 

Nazareth, 

6,000 

Syria, 

New  Castle-on-Tyne, 

145,000 

England, 

Newport, 

10,000 

Isle  of  Wight, 

Newport,  R.  I., 

17,000 

U.  S.  A., 

New  York,  N.  Y.,      - 

1,250,000 

« 

Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,     - 

6,000 

" 

Nice, 

54,000 

France, 

Niccea.  Asia  Minor, 

Turkey, 

Obersee, 

Bavaria, 

Ocean  Atlantic, 

"     Indian, 

"     Pacific.     - 

Oran, 

50,000 

Algeria, 

Orleans, 

52,000 

France, 

Osaka, 

280,000 

Japan, 

Otsu, 

18,000 

|« 

Oxford, 

40,000 

England, 

Palatio, 

Italy, 

Palestine, 

Paris, 

2,225,000 

France, 

Parsees, 

India, 

Pass,  Brunig, 

Switzerland, 

"     Daphne, 

Greece, 

"     Semmering, 
1  '     Simplon, 

Austria, 
Switzerland, 

"     St.  Gothard, 

14 

Penang, 
Penrith, 

50,000 
10,000 

Sts.  Malacca, 
England, 

Pesth,(see  Buda),  Hungary, 

Austria, 

Peterhof, 

8,000 

Russia, 

Petrified  forest,  Cal.  ,     - 

U.  S.  A., 

Philae,  (Ruins), 

Nubia, 

Philadelphia,  Penn., 

900,000 

U.  S.  A., 

Piraeus, 

21,000 

Greece, 

Pisa, 

50,000 

Italy, 

INDEX. 


427 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Pistoria, 

3,000 

Italy, 

199 

Plain  of  Esdraelon, 

Syria, 

264 

Poitiers, 

34,000 

France, 

I56 

Pompeii,  (Ruins), 

Italy, 

221 

Pools  of  Solomon,    - 

Syria, 

256 

Poonah, 

91,000 

India, 

328 

Portmadoc, 

1,000 

Wales, 

39 

Portrush, 

1,000 

Ireland, 

Port  Said,     - 

4,000 

Egypt, 

242 

Portsmouth, 

128,000 

England, 

39 

Portland,  Oregon,    - 

40,000 

U.  S.  A., 

392 

Potsdam, 

49,000 

Germany, 

102 

Prague,  Bohemia,    - 

250,000 

Austria, 

109 

Providence,  R.  L, 

110,000 

U.  S.  A., 

415 

Pyramids  of  Gizeh, 

Egypt, 

230 

Quebec, 

35>000 

Canada, 

413 

Queenstown, 

10,000 

Ireland, 

I 

Rachel's  Tomb, 

Syria, 

255 

Ramah, 

'• 

262 

Ramleh, 

3,000 

•  < 

246 

Rangoon,     - 

132,000 

Br.  Burmah, 

363 

Reno,  Nev., 

5,000 

U.  S.  A., 

391 

Rheims, 

82,000 

France, 

152 

Rhodes, 

20,000 

I'd  of  Rhodes, 

276 

Rhyl, 

5,000 

Wales, 

39 

River  Abana, 

Syria, 

273 

Canton,  (see  Pearl), 

China, 

368 

Clyde, 

Scotland, 

7 

Columbia, 

U.  S.  A., 

392 

Danube, 

Austria, 

114 

Ganges,    - 

India, 

354 

Hudson, 

U.  S.  A., 

410 

Jordan,      - 

Syria, 

260 

Kishon, 

« 

264 

Mississippi, 

U.  S.  A.  , 

395 

Moselle, 

France, 

I51 

Nile, 
Pearl,  (see  Canton,) 

Egypt, 

China, 

Rhine,  -        -        - 

Germany, 

H7 

St.  Lawrence,   - 

Canada, 

4i3 

Thames, 

England, 

31 

Rome,        - 

250,000 

Italy, 

205 

Roslin  Chapel, 
Rotterdam,          - 

153.000 

Scotland, 
Holland, 

g 

Rouen,    - 

105,000 

France, 

4i 

Rowsley,    - 

1,000 

England, 

38 

Sachseln, 

1,000 

Switzerland, 

133 

Sacramento,  Gala., 

30,000 

U.  S.  A.,    : 

39i 

Safed,      - 

5,000    ' 

Syria, 

269 

428 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Saigon,       - 

9O,OOO 

Co.  China, 

367 

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,      - 

30,000 

U.  S.  A. 

393 

Salzburg,    -        -        -         - 

20,000 

Austria, 

122 

Samaria, 

I.OOO 

Syria, 

264 

Samaritans  Inn, 

26l 

San  Francisco,  Gala., 

250,000 

U.  S.  A. 

385 

Santa  Barbara,      "     - 

6,OOO 

« 

389 

Santa  Cruz,  Cala., 

10,000 

« 

388 

San  Remo, 

8,000 

Italy. 

I85 

Saratoga,  N.  Y.,      - 

10,000 

U.  S.  A. 

412 

Schaffhausen, 

11,000 

Switzerland, 

I3I 

Scheveningen, 
Schonbrunn, 

8,000 

Holland, 
Austria, 

60 

120 

Sea,  Arabian, 

- 

3°4 

"     Black, 

294 

"     China,      - 

368 

"    Dead, 

257 

"     Galilee,    - 

267 

"     Inland, 

?7c 

"     Marmora, 

287 

"     Mediterranean,    - 

181 

"     Red, 

302 

"     Yellow, 

374 

Sebastopol, 

11,000 

Russia, 

*•*     7 

96 

Secundra,   .... 

20,000 

India, 

345 

Serampore,      - 

10,000 

M 

357 

Seringham,          ... 

20,000 

« 

323 

Seville,  .... 

134,000 

Spain, 

164 

Sevres,        .... 

2,000 

France,             54 

Shechem,  (Nablous,) 

I  ,OOO 

Syria,             263 

Sheffield,     .-.- 
Shiloh,    .... 

285,000 

England,             38 
Syria,             262 

Shrewsbury, 

25,000 

England,             39 

Shunem, 
Singapore, 
Sinjel,     - 

I,OOO 

97,000 

Syria,             265 
Stsof  M'lacca,      366 
Syria,             262 

Sissons,  Cal., 

U.  S.  A.          392 

Smyrna,  Asia  Minor, 

160,000 

Turkey,           278 

Sorrento, 

20,000                  Italy,                 222 

Sound,  Long  Island, 

U.  S.  A.,         416 

"      Puget, 

392 

Southampton,     - 

60,000 

England,            40 

Spezia, 

24,000 

Italy,              185 

Sphinx, 

Egypt,          232 

Saint  Bernard, 

Italy,              189 

"     Cloud, 

5,000 

France,             53 

"     Denis, 

35,°°° 

54 

"     Germain, 

17,000 

54 

"     Gothard  Tunnel, 

Switzerland,        143 

INDEX. 


429 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Saint  Omer, 

22,000 

France, 

299 

"     Petersburg, 

668,000 

Russia, 

77 

"     Raphael,    - 

PVance, 

Stirling, 

13,000 

Scotland, 

ii 

Stockholm, 

174,000 

Sweden, 

71 

Strait  Formosa, 

374 

"      Gibraltar, 

171 

"      Malacca, 

"      Shimonoseki, 

375 

Strasburg, 

105,000 

Germany, 

H3 

Stratford-on-Avon, 

8,000 

England, 

35 

Stressa, 

2,000 

Italy, 

141 

Stonachlacher,    - 

Scotland, 

ii 

Suez, 

13,000 

Egypt, 

301 

Suk, 

Syria, 

273 

Sumt, 

100,000 

India, 

333 

Tangiers, 

10,000 

Morocco, 

171 

Taniore,-       - 

52,000 

India, 

325 

Tel-el-Kebir,       - 

Egypt, 

243 

Tells  Chapel, 

* 

Switzerland, 

'33 

Tete  Noire, 

<» 

140 

Thebes  (Ruins), 
The  Hague, 

118,000 

Egypt. 
Holland, 

237 
bo 

Therapia, 

Turkey, 

294 

Tiberias, 

3,000 

Syria, 

208 

Tivoli, 

8,000 

Italy, 

216 

Tokio  (Yeddo), 

600,000 

Japan, 

380 

Tomb  of  Noah, 

Syria, 

275 

Tonquin, 

Co.  China, 

Toulon, 

71,000 

France, 

I83 

Tours,     - 

48,000 

H 

156 

Trichinopoly, 

77,000 

India, 

323 

Trolhatta  Falls,  - 

Norway, 

67 

Trondhjem, 

23,000 

n 

69 

Trossachs, 

Scotland, 

ii 

Troy,  (Ruins),  Asia  Minor, 

1  urkey, 

287 

Turin,       - 

193,000 

Italy, 

1  88 

Tuticorin,    - 

10,000 

India, 

320 

Upsala,    --.. 

16,000 

Sweden, 

73 

Valladolid,  .... 

52,000 

Spain, 

158 

Valley  of  Gihon,      - 

Syria, 

247 

Venice,        -         ... 

130,000 

Italy, 

192 

Verona,  - 

76,000 

" 

191 

Versailes,    - 

50,000 

France, 

50 

Vevay,     -         -         -        - 

8,000 

Switzerland, 

137 

Vienna,       -         ... 

1,000.000 

Austria, 

114 

Vilvorde,          ... 

7,000 

Belgium, 

58 

Virginia  City,  Nev. 

12,000 

U.  S   A 

Vitznau,  - 

Switzerland, 

133 

430 


INDEX. 


PLACE 

POPULATION 

COUNTRY 

PAGE 

Warsaw,  Poland, 

337»ooo 

Russia, 

96 

Warwick, 

12,000 

England, 

32 

Washington,  D.  C.,    - 

150,000 

U.  Si  A, 

398 

Wasta,     ---- 
Waterloo,   -        ... 

I,OOO 

2,000 

Egypt, 
Belgium, 

234 

57 

Wiesbaden,      - 

50,000 

Germany, 

297 

West  Point,  N.  Y.,     - 

2,000 

U.   S.   A, 

411 

White  Sulphur  Springs,  W.V. 
Windsor  Castle, 

ii 

England, 

396 
28 

Yafufeh,      .... 

3,000 

Syria, 

273 

Yeddo,  (Tokio,)      - 

600,000 

Japan, 

380 

Yellowstone  Park, 

U.  S.  A., 

393 

Yokohama, 

64,000 

Japan, 

383 

York, 

Yosemite  Valley, 

55»ooo 

England, 
U.  S.  A., 

37 
390 

Zaandam,    - 

13,000 

Holland, 

61 

Zug,         .... 

5,000 

Switzerland, 

132 

Zurich,        -         ... 

22,000 

it 

131 

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C.    H.    LEWES. 

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cloth,  75  cts. 

OSSIP   SCHUBIN. 

Our  Own  Set,  from  the  German 
by  Clara  Bell,  one  vol.  paper, 
56  cts.  cloth,  90  cts. 

GEORGE   TAYLOR. 

Antinous,  from  the  German  by 
Mary  J.  Safford,  one  vol.  paper, 
50  cts.,  cloth,  90  cts. 

Clytia,  from  the  German  by  Mary 
J.  Safford,  one  vol.  paper,  5octs, 
cloth,  90  cts. 

CARL   VOSMAER. 

The  Amazon,  from  the  Dutch 
by  E.  J.  Irving,  one  vol.  paper, 
40  cts.,  cloth,  75  cts. 

ADOLF    WILBRANDT. 

Fridoiin's  Mystical  Mar- 
riage, from  the  German,  by 
Clara  Bell,  one  vol.  paper,  5octs. 
cloth,  90  cts. 


Henry  Irving,  a  short  account 
of  his  public  life.  Paper,  with 
frontispiece,  50  cts.,  cloth,  with 
four  illustrations,  $1.25. 


A  Practical  Method  for  Learning  Spanish,  by  A.  Ramos  Diaz 
de  Villegas,  in  one  volume,  121110.     Price  75  cents. 


A.  Method  for  the  Idiomatic  Study  of  German,  by  Otto 
Kuphal,  Ph.  D.  Part  One.  Lessons,  Exercises,  and  Vocabulary, 
large  lamo.  536  pages.  Price  $2.25. 


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